Nice video, also you can leave the drain open and slowly fill with new oil until the old runs clean and reinstall the drain plug, then continue to fill. This pushes more of the old oil out.....
Hi Mike! Thanks for the video! A quick note: the factory applies a liberal amount of Molybdenum paste to the splines of the gears during assembly -- this is why the fluid looks "Nasty", which it isn't. Just draining the Moly out with the oil. Some do-it-yourselfers will actually purchase Molybdenum paste from Honda and add it back in (a few teaspoonful) when changing the fluid. So, please note: do NOT change this oil until you have reached 24k miles so that the Moly can do its job in there. Thanks again for the video! Great job!
If you don't have a syringe style injector handy, I've had great success using a pump from an old hand lotion bottle (flush it out really good, of course!). I keep one around and find that you can drop it in the gear oil bottle and it fits right up behind the muffler. Then just pump away until it starts to run out.
yes, that's one really good idea! Huh, i suppose I'll see someone start selling these as 'special tools', eh? But seriously, your technique will be WAY easier than what I've done with long plastic tubes. Thanks.
Many years i do this with old brake oil getting out of the mastercylinders bottle.. clean it and fill with new oil. ( you put it in the bottle of the old soapbottle and when ready put the pump back into the old soapbottle so you get no brakeoil on stuff!
I'm too lazy to clean a bottle of lotion. You can find those little bottles at the Dollar Store, or at Walmart in the section that has travel-sized stuff.
Manual recommends a new o-ring for the fill plug and a new crush washer for the drain plug. Well worth $5. Torque fill plug: 9 lbf ft. Torque drain plug: 15 lbf ft. Good idea for the syringe. Thanks for the vid.
Hey Mike got my GL1800 12 months ago and done Final Drive and I am using Amsoil 10w30 just done the coolant also love this bike thanks mate you were the one that got me going for the Goldwing glad I did love your videos
A good idea would be to change the final drive oil after at least a one hour ride. That housing would actually get hot, all of the particles would be suspended in the oil for a few minutes, then pull the drain plugs. Another thing I like to do is, put a magnetUnder the flow of oil so you can see if you’re getting any bearing scraps metal flake gear flake in the oil indicating something is coming apart. Just a lesson I learned after having owned a BMW K 1200 LT. Final drives on those things failed pretty often..That is actually one of the main reasons I sold my BMW.
I rode my GL1500 880k miles final drive never had its oil touched. Never had an issue. I will however change it on my 1800 because that bike was literally falling to bits this one isnt. I don't agree though final drives on wings are excellent!
+Qbal that means more $$ for you to buy good food to cook/smoke! I am guessing they would charge 1/2hr labor rate...whcih at my shop is $95/hour. trust me..it is EASY and I am NO mechanic at all!!!
That injector looks like a real handy accessory. I'll be sure to grab one tomorrow for my oil change and final drive oil change that's coming up before Wing Ding 39!
I appreciate the video, brother. Giving the Wing some love today. New oil, new plugs, and final drive oil. Next available day, the brake and clutch fluids get replaced. New tires on Tuesday at JC Cycles in Memphis, too!
Per my 2012 Honda Factory Shop Manual:Top plug torque is 9 lbf-ft and 15 lbf-ft for the drain plug or 12 & 20 N-m respectively. Thanks for the great vid!
Mike, pulling the muffler makes this job really easy, it only has one bolt and two more for the clamp. I use a little bit of Dano's favorite lube "Anti-Seize" on the inside of the muffler so that it slips off easily the next time you do this (not that it was hard the first time) or replace the brake pads, just make sure the Anti-Seize is high temp. (which is the only kind I buy and works everywhere you need it). Correction: that's probably Dan'o second favorite lube! LOL Actually you would have to ride the bike to heat that oil up.
Thanks for posting this, Mike. Good info. Actually simpler than an oil change. I thought I read in my owner's manual something about changing the washer on the plug each time? I will have to look at that again.
You know I questioned that after I undid the plug. I saw no crush washer on mine which surprised me. I am watching close for no leaks. I honestly think it should have one. You may be correct.
Would moving the wheel to free up any old oil and dirt work? Same with refilling with new oil, would spinning the wheel coat up the internals with clean oil? Thoughts?
I learned it is way easier if you jack the bike up and allow the rear wheel to drop down. Easier access to the plugs! For those who have a motorcycle jack anyway.
About to do mine, undid the fill bolt and oil came out! Looks like previous owner/dealer put too much in. Can't get the Honda shaft oil but got a new bottle of Yamaha shaft oil i had when i had a Yamaha FJR1300. That'll do nicely as same numbers on the bottle.
Cheap peace of mind! Wing is set for 2016. Had Brake recall done, new fork seals, new front brake pads, new set of tires, Amsoil Oil Change and Final Drive Oil change, and left button panel replaced because of sticking hazard switch. Fortunately most of that except brake pads tires and oil covered under extended warranty!
+MemphisMike - Wow! You are ready! Were you having issues with the fork seals? Or, were you being proactive? I'm seeing one seal on the ST getting "damp" and it looks like a big job to change out!!
Thanks Mike... looks pretty easy and a good reminder that I need to be doing this on my Honda Stateline as well as my GL1800. Hoping you and Bro Chris put together the Chris and Mempis Mike Goldwing Motocade from MEM to Wing Ding in Texas... I'm from SW Indiana but would do my best to join up.
Hey Memphis! First of all I enjoy your videos a lot man! You're the kind of guy everybody wants to ride with! LOL so here's the question, I've got gear lube for the lower unit of my boat, it says SAE 90 on it but there's no 80 after it, it does say hi performance gear lube and it's from Quicksilver, I just hate to spend ten bucks on gear lube for the motorcycle I'm going to change once every three years and just have it sitting there, I'm always adding gear lube to my boat! So do you think this may work?
@@johnk12345100 Ok. Seems i can use scooter transmission oil. But i think my api gl4 outboard gear house oil also should work. I will drain it and see if its crap or not. And if the oil is flawless i will buy api 5 if its black i will use what i have for my boat. Thanks for quick answe. :)
i just bought a 2003 Honda Gold Wing even though i work in preventive maintenance its always good to know short cuts with reliable how too's... However in the future im sure these cases will be sealed cases-units. Just like cars that never need a oil change... Engineers are hard at work to make cars/bikes more disposable.. yes saves on costs and tend to buy newer more fashionable vehicles.
Did you replace the drain plug washer did you not check for proper torque? Drain plug washers are cheap torque super easy to find out. I find the pumps to be more useful for any tranny/differential work it allows you to see that your truly full and then drain it into an oil pan so you can let everything settle out. Also make sure the bike is level didn't hear anything about this maybe I missed it.
Hmm. Bike is on center stand in my garage. I suppose i could get my 24” level out to precisely see if the bubble is in the middle to make sure it is level.
Like you said, the hardest thing about doing that is lying on your back to do it. I bet getting up of the floor if you're over 50 is harder yet. Lol Lol. Safe riding... Informative video bro.
it really is a very simply procedure Glenn..Heck, If I can do it...I feel anybody can do it...I do not possess the best of mechanical skills myself!!!!!! Thanks for watching and hope this helps.
Thanks for the video, saved me some time from reading manual! What’s up with this “what’s up” CZcams? Weird. Are you trying to say Hi or you want to know what is up? …from CZcams?
@@Patriotsoul What does the "w" in a grade of motor oil stand for? The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity. The lower this number is, the less viscous your oil will be at low temperatures. For example, a 5W- motor oil will flow better at lower temperatures than a 15W- motor oil. The higher number, following the “w” refers to hot weather viscosity, or how fluid your oil is at hot temperatures. The higher the number, the thicker the oil at a specified temperature. Take Care
MemphisMike I just brought home my first Goldwing a 2005 GL 1800. I'm normally a cruiser guy so I have to relearn how to ride a Goldwing. Thanks for the video it helps a bunch
Mike, stupid question. Is the bike supposed to be on the center stand? That was my thought but when I removed the fill plug I got quite a bit of oil out of that plug like it was filled on the side stand.
Your suppose to drive it to obtain normal operating temperature per the manual to drain. I was looking all over too high for the fill part lol. I'm wanting to experiment with full synthetic. I know full synthetic in my car engine runs 10,000 between changes and ran it like that for 100k miles and the oils not dirty looking after the 10k. Wander if the gear oil be a lot better too. I was in disbelief in the car oil. That was using cheap Walmart brand on the car. Anyway thanks for the video and the syringe tip. If anyone has tried full synthetic gear oil to the extent to know the difference good please respond. Thanks
MemphisMike yea in the engines and probably anything I really think full syn is probably the way to go. I've never had mine get that watery broke down non lubricating feeling I've seen in some cars after 6,000 miles or so running standard oil between a oil change. I only run synthetic in my car engines period and about to start on this bike engine. Kind of wandering if they make a good enough filter for that for the gl1800. This is my first wing so I'm not sure what all exists yet.
MemphisMike I've read amsoil makes premium stuff everywhere but haven't tried it yet. May try it next go around. I see they claim their engine oil can run like 30,000 between changes but I'm not sure I'd try it. Anyone tried that be nice to know the end results. Be nice to see some verification on that. 15 is the most I've done in a car on synthetic and the oil was ok but I feel like it's time to be sure. I usually run 10k in my car. Hard to go from a couple thousand to feeling safe on real high mileage changes.
Good video, but 4 or so ounces doesn't seem like enough. I have seen other videos that show guys added as much as 15 ounces. Do you know what amount it is supposed to hold?
Hi Mike, my final drive has build up of oil and dirt, looks dirty.. wonder if it's actually leaking.. 02 gl1800.. 56k miles.. any idea or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you.. Thanh
Thank you! I will give that a shot.. I'm planning a 2700-mile-trip, will replace the fluid on that final drive and run it for a test.. come to think of it, might be a spill, collecting dust and buildup.. so I hope.. Thanks again...
Riding anywhere in the states has been a consideration!! To go to any of the corners definitely take some scheduled time off for such a venture! That would be a great trip!
Rosemarie has been given a new Nolan 103, full face helmet with the N-com. So I was hoping that could, or would pair up with the Sena 10c. I think you might have said whether you were also using a GoPro yourself. Or relying solely on the Sena 10c for the downloaded vlogs.
I know you were using the Sena, conversing with "Mrs. Memphis Mike" a couple days ago, and recording video. And that seemed to work just fine. Likely all I need, or would need to download the occasional vlog myself.
Hmmm. Don't seem to have that issue with the Ultra Classic. :-) I don't think it's ever been necessary to lubricate the final drive belt........... :-)
I think the belt will last as long as a shaft. Probably just as quiet. Like a shaft, never needs replacing. Lifetime belt, the service manager at Harley informed me. A quiet final drive just like the GW, and a "whisper quiet" engine, just like the GW, with a throaty exhaust note.
James McCracken Don't get me wrong. Likely the next bike, will be another Gold Wing. But should the Harley have a flat, or simply require a new tire, I'll either contact my road side service or the local Harley dealer and have THEM remove the wheel. Neither replacing the belt or any of the gears within the Honda's driveshaft housing, is a roadside repair though.
Thomas Nessman my belt picked up a rock a 43 k miles punch hereditary belt and damages both pulleys ,1100 dollar repair bill as you must Pell primary and drop swing arm !!sold the e glide now changing gear lube myself lmfao
if that, just the same as any other vehicle. how often do you change dif fluid in your trucks and cars? most people will say never, it's a waste of time and resources. unless a seal goes bad that is.
I understand but many wing owners go to absolute extremes changing fluids every 3k and to date not one mechanical failure has ever been related to oil, oil brand or type or frequency of changing. In fact in many cases they are doing more damage than good by changing oil while on a trip in a gravel parking lot and such. Almost all new vehicles recommend oil changes at 7500 up to 12k not 3k which goes back to 1941. You know darn well if you even mention oil on any of the MC message boards you will have thousands of "I change oil every 5 minutes and have never had a oil related problem" :-) There is needed maintenance and then there is lunacy.
Yeah i get that. But...not this rider here. If it makes you feel any better..I have about 11k miles on my current oil(Amsoil) so how often you change your oil and shaft drive oil on your Wing?
Actually the viscosity will change if the oil is subjected to major contaminants as in engine combustion byproducts however in this case as a closed unit no this is simply "feels like" and is not factual. Most of the over maintenance on these machines only makes the owner feel better about his or her ride but in actually does little to help and if done in a super 8 parking lot probably more damage than good.
Sup with the breathing Mike? You've been watchin porn or are we ? Lol twink ...tune at the end of the vid sounds te same . Close too the theme of starsky n hutch ....just jokin , thanks much for the time you took , gotta service mine too , now i know how. Take care , ride safe thumbs up
good question...my bike is a 2008...I am guessing it is the first change on it....Who knows. Original owner probably never changed it.. I am not even sure what the interval is for the schedule to change it.
Looking at my notes, the bike had 30,500 on it on this video. The Bike when i purchased had 12,500 miles october 31, 2014. I bet that was original oil. Not sure why looked so bad?
Age of oil is also a factor Mike, if the oil was from 2008 no wonder it was nasty black. Good job, think I'm going to change mine also. Honda dealer has changed the shaft oil twice when I had new tires installed.
Привет Майк!Отличное видео.Могу поделиться как мы меняем пружину амортизатора!czcams.com/video/WKoByZSDDHY/video.htmlи генераторczcams.com/video/BtRh5JQ64js/video.html😎
The hardest thing really isn’t lying on your back to do this, it’s getting back up that’s the hard part
😂 truth!
Spin the wheel to get more oil out.
Thanks. Very helpful as I am about to pick up my first, used, new to me Goldwing this weekend.
Congratulations and good luck with the maintenance!
Nice video, also you can leave the drain open and slowly fill with new oil until the old runs clean and reinstall the drain plug, then continue to fill. This pushes more of the old oil out.....
not sure its that complicated really for what little might remain inside..
agree, since you have a leftover...
Hi Mike! Thanks for the video!
A quick note: the factory applies a liberal amount of Molybdenum paste to the splines of the gears during assembly -- this is why the fluid looks "Nasty", which it isn't. Just draining the Moly out with the oil. Some do-it-yourselfers will actually purchase Molybdenum paste from Honda and add it back in (a few teaspoonful) when changing the fluid.
So, please note: do NOT change this oil until you have reached 24k miles so that the Moly can do its job in there.
Thanks again for the video! Great job!
If you don't have a syringe style injector handy, I've had great success using a pump from an old hand lotion bottle (flush it out really good, of course!). I keep one around and find that you can drop it in the gear oil bottle and it fits right up behind the muffler. Then just pump away until it starts to run out.
Genious Idea!!! That actually souinds easier than the Syringe method to me!!
yes, that's one really good idea! Huh, i suppose I'll see someone start selling these as 'special tools', eh? But seriously, your technique will be WAY easier than what I've done with long plastic tubes. Thanks.
I do this too, cheap and easy.
Many years i do this with old brake oil getting out of the mastercylinders bottle.. clean it and fill with new oil. ( you put it in the bottle of the old soapbottle and when ready put the pump back into the old soapbottle so you get no brakeoil on stuff!
I'm too lazy to clean a bottle of lotion.
You can find those little bottles at the Dollar Store, or at Walmart in the section that has travel-sized stuff.
Manual recommends a new o-ring for the fill plug and a new crush washer for the drain plug. Well worth $5. Torque fill plug: 9 lbf ft. Torque drain plug: 15 lbf ft. Good idea for the syringe. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for info
Thank you for the info 🤘🏼
Yes it does but see above best advice is not try to help
Hey Mike got my GL1800 12 months ago and done Final Drive and I am using Amsoil 10w30 just done the coolant also love this bike thanks mate you were the one that got me going for the Goldwing glad I did love your videos
Congratulations Frank....appreciate that. Cannot go wrong with Amsoil either. I am due for a coolant flush myself.
A good idea would be to change the final drive oil after at least a one hour ride. That housing would actually get hot, all of the particles would be suspended in the oil for a few minutes, then pull the drain plugs. Another thing I like to do is, put a magnetUnder the flow of oil so you can see if you’re getting any bearing scraps metal flake gear flake in the oil indicating something is coming apart. Just a lesson I learned after having owned a BMW K 1200 LT. Final drives on those things failed pretty often..That is actually one of the main reasons I sold my BMW.
I rode my GL1500 880k miles final drive never had its oil touched. Never had an issue. I will however change it on my 1800 because that bike was literally falling to bits this one isnt. I don't agree though final drives on wings are excellent!
Best advice EVER! If I had not followed take the fill cap off first I would have been SCREWED! Thank you very much
Stephen Becker glad it helped!!!
Fantastic video. Thanks Memphis Mike. Very well narrated, with great video and audio quality.
You just saved me $50 bucks an hour or whatever the dealership charges. Very informative. Thank you Mike!
+Qbal that means more $$ for you to buy good food to cook/smoke! I am guessing they would charge 1/2hr labor rate...whcih at my shop is $95/hour. trust me..it is EASY and I am NO mechanic at all!!!
Closer to $80
The Honda dealer near me is $165 per hour.
That injector looks like a real handy accessory. I'll be sure to grab one tomorrow for my oil change and final drive oil change that's coming up before Wing Ding 39!
Suthern Cal Motovlogs yeah makes it pretty easy honestly. Good to have on hand!!!!
MemphisMike cool beans.
Turkey baster and plastic tube works great.
You just saved me 90 bucks....good tip on the meat injector!
Street Mann glad to help!
I appreciate the video, brother. Giving the Wing some love today. New oil, new plugs, and final drive oil. Next available day, the brake and clutch fluids get replaced. New tires on Tuesday at JC Cycles in Memphis, too!
awesome! bike is ready for riding season and now you dont have to worry about it!!!
Per my 2012 Honda Factory Shop Manual:Top plug torque is 9 lbf-ft and 15 lbf-ft for the drain plug or 12 & 20 N-m respectively. Thanks for the great vid!
@@mustbetrue1602 Use the German spec "Gutten". Make it gutten tight.
Great job pray all is well miss your videos
Thank you
Quick clean and simple video Perfect for helping people.
Thank you
Mike, pulling the muffler makes this job really easy, it only has one bolt and two more for the clamp. I use a little bit of Dano's favorite lube "Anti-Seize" on the inside of the muffler so that it slips off easily the next time you do this (not that it was hard the first time) or replace the brake pads, just make sure the Anti-Seize is high temp. (which is the only kind I buy and works everywhere you need it).
Correction: that's probably Dan'o second favorite lube! LOL
Actually you would have to ride the bike to heat that oil up.
😂 dano likes his Lube! Thanks for the tip BP!
Thanks for posting this, Mike. Good info. Actually simpler than an oil change. I thought I read in my owner's manual something about changing the washer on the plug each time? I will have to look at that again.
You know I questioned that after I undid the plug. I saw no crush washer on mine which surprised me. I am watching close for no leaks. I honestly think it should have one. You may be correct.
Clean the drain plug magnet carefully. Inspect is there any chips or debris bigger then metal dust. If so, fun starts.
Funny you commented..just changed Final drive oil again yesterday!
@@MemphisMike901 I did it today! :D
easy cheesy pumpkin peasy. i got my syringe at the gun show for a buck i bought a few of them, nice tool to have. great vid brother
Would moving the wheel to free up any old oil and dirt work? Same with refilling with new oil, would spinning the wheel coat up the internals with clean oil? Thoughts?
Thanks for posting. Just did this on my wing.
Very simple, nice bike. So envious!
Had my eye out for you on the ride in this morning via Berryhill/Macon/Sanga, etc LOL
Shot thru about 8am-8:25Am this morning!
+MemphisMike missed you by an hour lol
I learned it is way easier if you jack the bike up and allow the rear wheel to drop down. Easier access to the plugs! For those who have a motorcycle jack anyway.
About to do mine, undid the fill bolt and oil came out! Looks like previous owner/dealer put too much in. Can't get the Honda shaft oil but got a new bottle of Yamaha shaft oil i had when i had a Yamaha FJR1300. That'll do nicely as same numbers on the bottle.
You could use a Mercury outboard lower unit oil pump as well
MemphisMike - Total cost - $10. The feeling you get knowing it's fresh - priceless!!!!
Cheap peace of mind! Wing is set for 2016. Had Brake recall done, new fork seals, new front brake pads, new set of tires, Amsoil Oil Change and Final Drive Oil change, and left button panel replaced because of sticking hazard switch. Fortunately most of that except brake pads tires and oil covered under extended warranty!
+MemphisMike - Wow! You are ready! Were you having issues with the fork seals? Or, were you being proactive? I'm seeing one seal on the ST getting "damp" and it looks like a big job to change out!!
my seal had started to leak slowly....caught it before it blew and made a mess! they covered it un warranty!! both of them!
nice video. do you know what the thing is straight down from the drain plug? Mine is leaking there, dripping onto the tire, which is super exciting.
Good job Mike sir
Awesome! Mine is pass dueI'll get it done this week! Thanks!
Thanks Mike... looks pretty easy and a good reminder that I need to be doing this on my Honda Stateline as well as my GL1800. Hoping you and Bro Chris put together the Chris and Mempis Mike Goldwing Motocade from MEM to Wing Ding in Texas... I'm from SW Indiana but would do my best to join up.
Richard Mourdock Yeah its pretty easy Richard. Have to do it on my Shadow as well! Very inexpensive maintenance item. Hoping to be at WingDing 2017!
Thanks for the video. Looks easy enough.
👍 thanks for watching
About to go visit son and Carnell Luckett, Black flash in okla. beginning of my rides in 2018.
BlackFlash!!!!
The fill cap on the final drive is the same as the valve tappet covers on my 1971 CL350 and many other models.
Interesting!
2003 GL1800 Owner's Manual says torque on that final-drive drain plug should be 14 lbf-ft.
Thank you for the tip. I really need to invest in a Torque Wrench.
Harbor Freight has a decent torque wrench
@@tomlagesse6635 -- No they don't and its not that critical as long as you don't go Chuck Norris when tightening them
It's always a good idea to have a torque wrench.... even Harbor Freight. Sorry you had bad luck with them. Mine works just fine.
I miss your videos Mike, hope all is well!
Thank you. Since retiring I think I have gotten lazy as far as youtube goes. Still riding everyday tho. ,!
Good job Mr.Mike!!!
Nice easy change ... Sweet.
Thanks for the video. A easy project. That one bolt you need little raccoon hands. lol
Man you made that look so easy! It's not hard but laying down on my back with a jacked up neck!!!!! Whew Wheeee! ha ha ha
Haha.
Hey Memphis! First of all I enjoy your videos a lot man! You're the kind of guy everybody wants to ride with! LOL so here's the question, I've got gear lube for the lower unit of my boat, it says SAE 90 on it but there's no 80 after it, it does say hi performance gear lube and it's from Quicksilver, I just hate to spend ten bucks on gear lube for the motorcycle I'm going to change once every three years and just have it sitting there, I'm always adding gear lube to my boat! So do you think this may work?
I was wondering about that myself. What did you do?
@@RimjobHimself that was a while back I can't remember but I just think I had the dealership check it when they were putting on new tires
@@johnk12345100 Ok. Seems i can use scooter transmission oil. But i think my api gl4 outboard gear house oil also should work. I will drain it and see if its crap or not. And if the oil is flawless i will buy api 5 if its black i will use what i have for my boat. Thanks for quick answe. :)
Perfect & simple job ... 100%
Cool tune at end. Thanks...
great video. thanks again U-tube... bet'cha Honda service department hates us...
flyingtigre Thanks. LoL yeah probably so!! Taking $$ out of their pockets!!
i just bought a 2003 Honda Gold Wing even though i work in preventive maintenance its always good to know short cuts with reliable how too's... However in the future im sure these cases will be sealed cases-units. Just like cars that never need a oil change... Engineers are hard at work to make cars/bikes more disposable.. yes saves on costs and tend to buy newer more fashionable vehicles.
you know you might have a valid point there. Congratulations on your Wing purchase!
Yep just changed mine on the goldwing
Did you replace the drain plug washer did you not check for proper torque? Drain plug washers are cheap torque super easy to find out. I find the pumps to be more useful for any tranny/differential work it allows you to see that your truly full and then drain it into an oil pan so you can let everything settle out. Also make sure the bike is level didn't hear anything about this maybe I missed it.
Hmm. Bike is on center stand in my garage. I suppose i could get my 24” level out to precisely see if the bubble is in the middle to make sure it is level.
Like you said, the hardest thing about doing that is lying on your back to do it. I bet getting up of the floor if you're over 50 is harder yet. Lol Lol. Safe riding... Informative video bro.
LoL. Yep no doubt!! Fortunately I still got "some" move-ability at my age,..at least so far!!
lol lol lol....10-4 on that...
Hey women over 50 have no problems lying on their backs all their life's ... We can do it for 4 minutes .... Ohhhhhhhhh👊😻😻😻
+dbest1a Vlogs LoL 😀👍😳
dbest1a Vlogs
Dam good question.... LOL...!!!
thanks for sharing. I feel confident enough to go and perform this myself.
it really is a very simply procedure Glenn..Heck, If I can do it...I feel anybody can do it...I do not possess the best of mechanical skills myself!!!!!! Thanks for watching and hope this helps.
MemphisMike can't wait to give it a try! anything on fork oil?
and thank you for such a rapid reply!
Unfortunately no experience with Fork area.
Good video chum have just subscribed.
Willie ( Belfast )
Have question on the fill nut. Having hard time getting it off and don't want to strip it. Anyway of taking it off without stripping the nut. Thanks
What are you using?
@@MemphisMike901 using a 17mm, called Honda dealership and told me use a impact driver to loosen it. Got it. Had take exhaust off. Thank you
If possible use a 6 point box end and not a 12 point, inpact sockets are also 6 point
*** impact
Thanks, I was wonder what type of device you need to fill the oil with. I'm off to Walmart to buy an injector.
I see you have ABS.
Great video thanks.
Does it take standard 80w gear oil?
80W90 or equivalent
why not use a flex tube pump oil can stop at overflow?
Probably a good idea
To heat it up need to take for a ride might want a new oring also
Thank you
Thanks for making the video. I will have to do that on my bike, but when should I do it? I have over 9,000 miles on mine now?
Check owners Manual but I am guessing at 24k miles!
+MemphisMike Oh o.k. will do. I will check it out and make a video on it soon.
Good video but, are you sure the final drive oil will heat up when you run the engine?
I road it around just before. Not just let it idle!
Thanks for the video, saved me some time from reading manual! What’s up with this “what’s up” CZcams? Weird. Are you trying to say Hi or you want to know what is up? …from CZcams?
Ya know bad habits I guess. I guess i could have been worse and said “hello this us your boy or this is your girl….etc”. Glad it was helpful tho
Fun fact: The "W" in 80W90 stands for "Winter" as in when its cold its 80 but when it heats up its 90.
Your backwards, warm is 80W. Winter is 90W.
*You're
@@Patriotsoul
What does the "w" in a grade of motor oil stand for?
The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity. The lower this number is, the less viscous your oil will be at low temperatures. For example, a 5W- motor oil will flow better at lower temperatures than a 15W- motor oil. The higher number, following the “w” refers to hot weather viscosity, or how fluid your oil is at hot temperatures. The higher the number, the thicker the oil at a specified temperature.
Take Care
@@SvenTSchixe you are correct. I don’t know what I was doing. Probably had a few whiskeys and got dyslexic lol.
@@Patriotsoul 🤣 No worries buddy, we have all been there before.
Take Care🍻🤙
Is it really that simple? is there any kind of dip stick like for the oil just to make sure you put enough oil in?
CharlieMic5 It really is. No dipstick either
MemphisMike I just brought home my first Goldwing a 2005 GL 1800. I'm normally a cruiser guy so I have to relearn how to ride a Goldwing. Thanks for the video it helps a bunch
CharlieMic5 It is a little bit of adjustment for sure. It will take long to learn tho!!!!! Congratulations to you
CharlieMic5 no dip stick. You fill them plumb full level with the bottom of the fill hole. Per the Honda manual for my 2001 wing.
Have you seen your boy Chris on his NEW GoldWing yet?
Not yet. Plan to go see it Sunday!
Mike, stupid question. Is the bike supposed to be on the center stand? That was my thought but when I removed the fill plug I got quite a bit of oil out of that plug like it was filled on the side stand.
Martin Febanske To my knowledge it is suppose to be filled on center stand
Do we need to replace the o-ring and washer seal on the filler and drain bolts respectively every time?
Hi
Please I need your help
Is there any difference in periodic maintenance for 2010 goldwing airbag model and the model without
Thanks
Not that I am aware of.
You do this with your bike on it's center stand?
Yes sir!
Your suppose to drive it to obtain normal operating temperature per the manual to drain. I was looking all over too high for the fill part lol. I'm wanting to experiment with full synthetic. I know full synthetic in my car engine runs 10,000 between changes and ran it like that for 100k miles and the oils not dirty looking after the 10k. Wander if the gear oil be a lot better too. I was in disbelief in the car oil. That was using cheap Walmart brand on the car. Anyway thanks for the video and the syringe tip. If anyone has tried full synthetic gear oil to the extent to know the difference good please respond. Thanks
I run Amsoil in Bike and go 9-10k. Have not used synthetic in final drive tho. May consider it next time
MemphisMike yea in the engines and probably anything I really think full syn is probably the way to go. I've never had mine get that watery broke down non lubricating feeling I've seen in some cars after 6,000 miles or so running standard oil between a oil change. I only run synthetic in my car engines period and about to start on this bike engine. Kind of wandering if they make a good enough filter for that for the gl1800. This is my first wing so I'm not sure what all exists yet.
I also use the Amsoil filter as well
MemphisMike I've read amsoil makes premium stuff everywhere but haven't tried it yet. May try it next go around. I see they claim their engine oil can run like 30,000 between changes but I'm not sure I'd try it. Anyone tried that be nice to know the end results. Be nice to see some verification on that. 15 is the most I've done in a car on synthetic and the oil was ok but I feel like it's time to be sure. I usually run 10k in my car. Hard to go from a couple thousand to feeling safe on real high mileage changes.
Thanks Mike
Good video.
Maybe if you ride it around a bit it'll warm up.
Good video, but 4 or so ounces doesn't seem like enough. I have seen other videos that show guys added as much as 15 ounces. Do you know what amount it is supposed to hold?
According to Manual 4.1 oz
Hi Mike, my final drive has build up of oil and dirt, looks dirty.. wonder if it's actually leaking.. 02 gl1800.. 56k miles.. any idea or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you.. Thanh
Have you tried cleaning the area to recheck for leaks with a degreaser?
Thank you! I will give that a shot.. I'm planning a 2700-mile-trip, will replace the fluid on that final drive and run it for a test.. come to think of it, might be a spill, collecting dust and buildup.. so I hope.. Thanks again...
It doent take much oil from a little spill to get cruddy around there Could be built up road grime possibly. Who knows!
I just buy 2002 goldwing ... what kind of engine oil can i use.... thank you
Can never go wrong with honda oil/filter. Because I ride so much I am running Amsoil to give me more miles in between changes
@@MemphisMike901
Thank you sir
Have you ever thought about riding to the Pacific Northwest?
Riding anywhere in the states has been a consideration!! To go to any of the corners definitely take some scheduled time off for such a venture! That would be a great trip!
And you torques it like your supposed to have a bolt not come back out would be an issue guy.
Same process as on the Shadow...just much harder to get to on the Wing!
Exactly...did I mention NOTHING is easy to work on the Wing!!! LoL
Mine is a 2009 model..
What is kind of oil
You should watch the first 2 minutes again
Quick question. How easily does the Sena 10c that you use, pair with Go Pro's or any other comparable bluetooth devices?
It pairs easily with my wife's 10s & Chris' Caliente 20s. That is only thin I have to reference it to.
And my phone as well. You must have the Audio Pack to pair to GoPro
Rosemarie has been given a new Nolan 103, full face helmet with the N-com. So I was hoping that could, or would pair up with the Sena 10c.
I think you might have said whether you were also using a GoPro yourself. Or relying solely on the Sena 10c for the downloaded vlogs.
+Thomas Nessman Sena is main unit. GoPro is for cut in footage. This vid I used GoPro
I know you were using the Sena, conversing with "Mrs. Memphis Mike" a couple days ago, and recording video. And that seemed to work just fine. Likely all I need, or would need to download the occasional vlog myself.
Hmmm. Don't seem to have that issue with the Ultra Classic. :-) I don't think it's ever been necessary to lubricate the final drive belt........... :-)
Haha. Yeah wouldn't recommend that!
I think the belt will last as long as a shaft. Probably just as quiet. Like a shaft, never needs replacing. Lifetime belt, the service manager at Harley informed me. A quiet final drive just like the GW, and a "whisper quiet" engine, just like the GW, with a throaty exhaust note.
True but it belt drive does make it harder when removing the wheel.
James McCracken Don't get me wrong. Likely the next bike, will be another Gold Wing. But should the Harley have a flat, or simply require a new tire, I'll either contact my road side service or the local Harley dealer and have THEM remove the wheel. Neither replacing the belt or any of the gears within the Honda's driveshaft housing, is a roadside repair though.
Thomas Nessman my belt picked up a rock a 43 k miles punch
hereditary belt and damages both pulleys ,1100 dollar repair bill as you must Pell primary and drop swing arm !!sold the e glide now changing gear lube myself lmfao
When do you want to change it? What's the interval?
Recommended every 24k miles.
Do they sell amsoil gear oil . I saw your video on engine oil . And notice you use amsoil oil
I believe Amsoil does make a Final Drive Gear oil as well. I have not used it tho in that capacity. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gear lube is nasty even brand new due to heavy sulphur content. This is a once in 100k process at most.
meaning only change every 100k miles??
if that, just the same as any other vehicle. how often do you change dif fluid in your trucks and cars? most people will say never, it's a waste of time and resources. unless a seal goes bad that is.
Just following mfg suggested recommended intervals
I understand but many wing owners go to absolute extremes changing fluids every 3k and to date not one mechanical failure has ever been related to oil, oil brand or type or frequency of changing. In fact in many cases they are doing more damage than good by changing oil while on a trip in a gravel parking lot and such. Almost all new vehicles recommend oil changes at 7500 up to 12k not 3k which goes back to 1941. You know darn well if you even mention oil on any of the MC message boards you will have thousands of "I change oil every 5 minutes and have never had a oil related problem" :-) There is needed maintenance and then there is lunacy.
Yeah i get that. But...not this rider here. If it makes you feel any better..I have about 11k miles on my current oil(Amsoil) so how often you change your oil and shaft drive oil on your Wing?
I may change mine as it has 155k on on the original oil even though the oil is still looking fresh.
Viscosity can break down. That's why they came out with synthetic. You can tell viscosity visually? No.
Actually the viscosity will change if the oil is subjected to major contaminants as in engine combustion byproducts however in this case as a closed unit no this is simply "feels like" and is not factual. Most of the over maintenance on these machines only makes the owner feel better about his or her ride but in actually does little to help and if done in a super 8 parking lot probably more damage than good.
Sup with the breathing Mike? You've been watchin porn or are we ? Lol twink ...tune at the end of the vid sounds te same .
Close too the theme of starsky n hutch ....just jokin , thanks much for the time you took , gotta service mine too , now i know how. Take care , ride safe thumbs up
HaHa....man ever since Lung surgery from some weird infection out of the blue, never been the same! course, these cigars probably don't help either!
Walmart....88 cents lmao
Yes.... that oil WAS nasty. How many miles on the bike? Wonder why.....I had 25,000 miles on mine and the oil was like new!
good question...my bike is a 2008...I am guessing it is the first change on it....Who knows. Original owner probably never changed it.. I am not even sure what the interval is for the schedule to change it.
hr2 pilot I had somewhere in the 30k mile when I changed mine
I believe its to be changed every 25k. I wouldn't go more then 2 years without changing the shaft drive oil no matter what mileage you have on it..
Looking at my notes, the bike had 30,500 on it on this video. The Bike when i purchased had 12,500 miles october 31, 2014. I bet that was original oil. Not sure why looked so bad?
Age of oil is also a factor Mike, if the oil was from 2008 no wonder it was nasty black. Good job, think I'm going to change mine also. Honda dealer has changed the shaft oil twice when I had new tires installed.
You should have flushed the sistem with 200ml of oil....with the 2 screws open.....and then Put the right amount.....good video anyway
Never done that with any of my shaft drive bikes and no issues. Thanks for the tip tho
MemphisMike its never to late.
Yeah, really why not? "Nasty" so why not just flush it clean?? The oil is cheap enough. Do a thorough job!
took your advice and did that this time!
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Thank you