Hello, I came across your video for throttle/idle adjustment. I notice that you mentioned you have no play on your throttle grip after adjusting, yet other videos on this topic recommend there being 1/4-3/8" play . What is your take on that?
I believe the other video you are referring to pertains to adjusting the CLUTCH cable, where I suggest that slack in the cable be set between 1/16 and 1/8 inch. On some motorcycles, there is also internal clutch free-play adjustment. Some slack in the CLUTCH cable is necessary to accommodate thermal expansion of the internal clutch components. If the clutch cable has no (or too little) slack in it, and the internal clutch components expand due to heat, the clutch will ALWAYS be partially disengaged (slipping) as you are applying power. This can burn up the clutch plates in short order. The situation with throttle cables is not quite the same, since there is not a whole lot of thermal expansion of the carburetor for which we need to compensate. There is adequate free-play as long as the throttle does not bind AT ALL regardless of the rotation of the bars (the throttle grip should always snap back quickly when you release it after twisting no matter which way the bars are turned). In reality, this means that there IS a bit of slack in the cables, but you may not necessarily be able to feel much at the grip. To be more precise, you may feel a little play in the grip when the front wheel is pointing straight, for example, and next to no play when the bars are fully turned. However, if you PREFER some slop in the throttle grip at all times, you can always adjust the idle cable to give you the feel you desire -- it's a matter of personal preference. By the way, the adjustment method, shown in the video, may not apply if your bike is not a carbureted H-D Evolution motorcycle (see description, above).
@Zerk_Ziegler thanks for the reply! My bike is a 2006 Sportster 1200 custom (carbureted). I'm aware of the clutch slack that is necessary/recommended but I actually saw a few videos on here on throttle adjustment where play was specifically recommended. The guy even used some blue painting tape across the throttle grip and handle and used a marker to draw a line across the blue tape so that when he moved /adjusted the play, he could measure the size of it. It was for a Sportster 1200 as well. What you say definitely makes sense and I only asked because I saw two different approaches to throttle adjustment, I just want to make sure I adjust it properly.
Just to sum up -- with the approach, shown in the video, there is ALWAYS SOME SLACK in the cables, but there is NO EXCESSIVE SLACK. The throttle grip should be completely free to snap back regardless of handlebar rotation position. @chipchelios
Great video. Makes perfect sense 👍
Thanks!
Hello, I came across your video for throttle/idle adjustment. I notice that you mentioned you have no play on your throttle grip after adjusting, yet other videos on this topic recommend there being 1/4-3/8" play . What is your take on that?
I believe the other video you are referring to pertains to adjusting the CLUTCH cable, where I suggest that slack in the cable be set between 1/16 and 1/8 inch. On some motorcycles, there is also internal clutch free-play adjustment. Some slack in the CLUTCH cable is necessary to accommodate thermal expansion of the internal clutch components. If the clutch cable has no (or too little) slack in it, and the internal clutch components expand due to heat, the clutch will ALWAYS be partially disengaged (slipping) as you are applying power. This can burn up the clutch plates in short order. The situation with throttle cables is not quite the same, since there is not a whole lot of thermal expansion of the carburetor for which we need to compensate. There is adequate free-play as long as the throttle does not bind AT ALL regardless of the rotation of the bars (the throttle grip should always snap back quickly when you release it after twisting no matter which way the bars are turned). In reality, this means that there IS a bit of slack in the cables, but you may not necessarily be able to feel much at the grip. To be more precise, you may feel a little play in the grip when the front wheel is pointing straight, for example, and next to no play when the bars are fully turned. However, if you PREFER some slop in the throttle grip at all times, you can always adjust the idle cable to give you the feel you desire -- it's a matter of personal preference. By the way, the adjustment method, shown in the video, may not apply if your bike is not a carbureted H-D Evolution motorcycle (see description, above).
@Zerk_Ziegler thanks for the reply! My bike is a 2006 Sportster 1200 custom (carbureted). I'm aware of the clutch slack that is necessary/recommended but I actually saw a few videos on here on throttle adjustment where play was specifically recommended. The guy even used some blue painting tape across the throttle grip and handle and used a marker to draw a line across the blue tape so that when he moved /adjusted the play, he could measure the size of it. It was for a Sportster 1200 as well. What you say definitely makes sense and I only asked because I saw two different approaches to throttle adjustment, I just want to make sure I adjust it properly.
Just to sum up -- with the approach, shown in the video, there is ALWAYS SOME SLACK in the cables, but there is NO EXCESSIVE SLACK. The throttle grip should be completely free to snap back regardless of handlebar rotation position. @chipchelios