Fuso 4P10 Fuel Pump Removal | Overland Build
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- EP 120 (HIT MORE FOR FULL DESCRIPTION! ➡️)
Well it’s time to bite the bullet and dig into this job - pulling the spare CP4 fuel pump to swap onto our seemingly dead Fuso FG. It seems like a simple and quick job, but it’s not!
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Makes me appreciate the all mechanical 4D33 on my 93 FG 170
I can imagine!! 😎
Praying this'll fix it, bud.
Me too!!!
I just love it when there's that one last bolt buried beneath layers of other stuff that needs to be removed just to get a spanner in there, and then you find you can't even remove it by hand once it's loose 🙄 One of the first preventative maintenance items I did on ours was replace the priming pump, and to get that undone without removing the lift pump I needed to modify a spanner to fit! I recently replaced the A/C drive belt and tensioner pulley on wifey's X5. The tensioner can only be adjusted from under the car, after you remove the aero tray, after you move some other hoses out of the way, then only 1/16th of a turn at a time by removing and re-indexing indexing a torx bit on the extension for each 1/16th rotation! An hour for a one-minute job - yay 👍 Why do they do this to us? 🤷🏼♀
Hopefully this is the fix for your no-start and, if so, it's possible to overhaul the original pump to keep as a spare. I wonder if the 'limp mode' issue was the pump on the way out, though I'm really surprised there was no code for low fuel rail pressure if that is the case. Keeping fingers crossed anyway!
Sometimes you just have to scratch your head in a “what were they thinking” moment!
Is this why snap on sells dozens of different shapes of wrenches with all sorts of weird curves?
Since I can’t afford 20+ snap on wrenches of every size, my idea was to use an induction heater to make a wrench shaft red hot, and then just bend it into the shape I need.
Also - I was doing some adhesive work. I have some 3M PE foam tape, not VHB. Oh my god, the liner is so easy to remove. I need to check on the specs and see if I can just use it instead of VHB. :)
LOL - I have a few “job specific” wrenches in my toolbox too - and a number of other home brew “special service tools”. 🤪 (some are even make of plywood). Years ago I made a 2x4 frame to lift the TDI engine in my golf so I could remove one engine mount to do the timing belt. Worked perfectly!
It's not important to set the engine on TDC. CP4 pump is a pressure pump. It's not a timing pump.
Actually, that last bolt you removed is the easiest bolt on cp 4. No, I'm not talking about that 10mm bolt😅
I have a question: How is the hall that recondition engine ran 200,000 + KM.
that cp 4 is always distorted at 80,000 to 100,000 km.
Hey, before you do that exact same thing on the truck, remove that vacuum pipe from the vacuum pump and cap of that inlet and outlet pipe of the pump.
Before you install that pump, I suggest inspecting that pump, too
Correct that the specific timing is not critical like on a gear/timed IP - but there are reasons to do it in the correct TDC position…. As written in the repair manual.
Good afternoon sir I have fuso center two code coming please can explain what I can check SPN 520429 FMI 18
SPN 520575 FMI 31 what's cause please some details give us thanks
520429 FMI 18 is Dynamic Check of the Lambda sensor reports slow. 520575 FMI 31 is Torque limitation active (limp mode) activeOBD performance limiter group 212. Limp mode is probably caused by the first code. The Lambda sensor is in the exhaust just ahead of the emissions system.
I did this job twice on my 4P10. That is not a truck's a bus
That engine has 2 AC pumps, and 1 is on the top of the CP4 bracket
You have a lot of access to do this job.
If i can send you a photo of how i did in my bus you will never said that's hard to do
It sure would be significantly more difficult with another compressor mounted there!
🤣🤣🤣dedos gordos🤭🤭
Si, es la verdad 🤪