Pillar Central du Frêney Classic Route Courmayeur Chamonix Mont-Blanc mountain alpinism
Vložit
- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- August 2009, mountain, mountaineering... Central Pillar of Frêney, Classic Route... Courmayeur Chamonix Mont-Blanc massif... Michel Bordet and Nicolas Lochu in one of the most famous routes of the Mont-Blanc massif... 500 meters of perfect granite in 7a+/A1 max... Access via Val Veny, the Monzino refuge, the Glacier du Brouillard, the Eccles bivouac refuge, exit to the summit of Mont-Blanc and descent by the normal route and the refuge du To taste...
First ascent in 1961 by two teams led by Bonnigton and Desmaison (Chris Bonington, I. Clough, Jan Długosz and Don Whillans, 27-29 August 1961, and René Desmaison, P. Julien, I. Piussi, Y. Pollet-Villard 28 -August 29, 1961.)
Previously there had been an extensive attempt by Walter Bonatti, Pierre Mazeaud, Roberto Gallieni, Andréa Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume and Antoine Vieille. Of the 7 protagonists, only the first three will survive...
- Superb route of 500 meters in 7a+ max in La Chandelle.
00:00 Refuge Bivouac Eccles, Col de Peuterey.
01:20 Rimaye, first lengths.
02:04 Sunrise, continued climbing.
03:45 Sunrise, continued climbing.
05:05 The beautiful red wall.
06:26 The overhang and the rest of the climb.
12:13 Under the Candle, snow ridge.
13:15 First length of the Chandelle.
14:40 Length in 6c A1, Chandelle du Frêney.
15:57 Crossing 7a A1, Chandelle du Frêney.
17:18 Dihedral in 7a+, Chandelle du Frêney.
19:43 Continuation of the lengths towards the summit of La Chandelle.
21:55 Summit of the Chandelle du Frêney.
22:40 Mixed to Mont-Blanc from Courmayeur and the summit of Mont-Blanc.
- VIDEO Eccles shelter: • Refuge Bivouac Eccles ...
- VIDEO Pierre Mazeaud talks about the Frêney Pillar: • Pilier Central du Frên...
- VIDEO Chris Bonington talks about the Frêney Pillar: • Pilier Central du Frên...
- In the middle of summer an invincible winter: www.editionspaulsen.com/au-mi...
- Michel Bordet with the independent guides of Chamonix: www.guides-cham.com/
- bitcoin support for tvmountain: bc1q2t23e36c8l6h5kf4ekng4qllpwfyreznzmxgg9
- tvmountain youtube subscription
/ @tvmountain
- Support tvmountain with Tipee: fr.tipeee.com/tvmountain
- tvmountain: www.tvmountain.com - Sport
Bravo ,c est dur en haut avec ces dernières longueurs qui n en finissent pas...souvenirs de ce pilier en une journée depuis le refuge Torino départ minuit et descente le soir par les grands mulets. C était avec 3 aspis à leur fin de stage...
Hello Anselme. Bravo pour le Torino Chamonix en passant par le Pilier
Mais c était dans les années 1980,dans ma jeunesse et un certain Gairzen qui avait tout " jauni" les longueurs en rocher ..!!
Des envies ? Depuis son canapé oui !...non, impressionnante ascension.
Superbe vidéo sur cette voie tristement célèbre et sans doute au combien difficile. Les choses ont bien changé depuis les années 50 à commencer par le matériel...et la prevision météo qui peut faire toute la différence. Dans les années 50 il y avait encore des hivers et des étés qui pouvaient y ressembler.
Le mauvais temps peut toujours surprendre. Et ce n'est pas loin d'y ressembler (au mauvais temps), finale dans le blanc et le vent.
Merci de votre message
Superbe voie mythique, total respect aux anciens comme Bonatti, Mazeaud et les malheureux qui y sont restés en 1961, ils étaient sacrément courageux avec les moyens de l'époque ! Magnifique vidéo, bravo !
Merci à vous
Vraiment classe la vidéo 👌 ça donne des envies
merci Alex
Escalade FANTASTIQUE !!!!!!!!!!! Toutes nos félicitations!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best Wishes.
merci
Finalmente un video che fa capire bene cosa significa scalare il Pilone! Bravissimi!!
Beautiful movie! Remember the great Walter Bonatti!
Bravo des vidéos toujours top avec du sport et de l'action 👌
quelle piece d'histoire. incroyable
Nice one guys, climbed this back in 1989, brought back some great memories.
Beautiful, thanks for making this film.
merci à vous
ouah , bravo ,c'est magnifique !
merci de votre message
Bravo les hommes et merci !
merci à toi
Il pilier du freney è il pilone più alto delle alpi totalmente in territorio Italiano. Ne francia ne svizzera possono vantarsi di avere una cosa del genere. Video fantastico complimenti.
merci
Spectaculaire ! J'espère cet été...
Magnifica ruta , grande Bonnati
tout a fait
Fantastico il versante Italiano del bianco con le sue pareti verticali.
merci de votre message
Bravo
Ricordiamo ad eventuali sprovveduti che il pilier du freney come anche il monte bianco di courmayeur e il col major sono totalmente in territorio Italiano. Il confine passa, sulla cima del bianco a quota, 4810. Quindi perché sul titolo del video si vede scritto courmayeur Chamonix se questo territorio non è francia ma Italia?
“Ils étaient courageux les anciens”, c’est dire peu!
oui très forts
Quelqu'un saurait quelle est la cotation obligatoire ? Çà n'a pas l'air très facile, le second a pas mal "tiré aux clous". Merci !
6a max dans toute la partie basse et 7a max pour la chandelle ou artif
@@tvmountain Merci !
Mi avete fatto prendere un accidente. E non ha neanche i calzettini. Incredibile.
I climbed this in September 1972 with no rock shoes only mountain boots. We traversed under the Brenda face and up a couloir to get to the route. It was one of the few routes that more often than not required a bivouac. On one attempt we got caught in a storm just below where Bonati started his epic and had to rappel the Rochers Grubers. Climbing free was often faster than aid climbing. Back then aid climbing was when you stood in slings or small ladders. pulling on the odd piece of gear was not really classed as aid climbing. With cams and lightweight gear it is now safer and faster but the guy who makes the comments lower that pulling on the odd piece takes away from the climb sounds like a Yosemite style climber where the weather is always perfect. By the way the route looks quite icy for august..
merci de votre message
Mérite le respect. Du vrai 'alpinisme, et bien en voilà et la fin à plus de 4000 mètres.
merci
I’m sorry but pulling on all that gear is fucking shameful. I had to stop watching as it grossed me out. If you’re not good enough to do it in good style (as would apply to me), just don’t do it
Ah yes... and you think that they freeclimbed 7a / 5.12 in the 1960s when the first ascent was?
It's not the 1960s anymore though. The climbers in this video are not wearing hobnail boots but the latest in sticky rubber rock climbing shoes. They have access to weather forecasts and are unlikely to get caught out by a storm. So, if you do it, do it right, not French free, it's gross in my mind
@@ucpgroup I got your point and I also would try to free climb it. But this one or two pitches out of thirty or so, don't make the overall difficulty of the route, which is still today pretty serious. You have to climb most of the (not so easy) pitches at high altitude in your mountain boots with bad protection. And you have to be fast. Even though i don't like aid climbing, it takes much more skill to climb this route like this than to climb 7a at the crag.
Tiens, un ayatollah qui vient nous faire un cours d'éthique dans un espace de liberté ! Franchement tu l'as vu mettre un spit ou même un clou ? Moi pas, alors il est où le malaise ?On va pas tarder à voir des commentaires pour critiquer le non port du masque au sein d'une cordée ! Next time call 911
Leave a comment in a language I can understand