AMAZING Way To Fill A Void In Wood - SO EASY Anyone Can Do It
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2017
- Website: www.guddeco.com
Insta: / guddeco
This video shows how I fill all of the cracks and voids that are unstable in my pieces. This is a step by step guide to how I do it. - Jak na to + styl
Love the video. Straightforward and informative. Must agree that music was distracting. Thanks
I mix a little bit of the stain I'm using into clear epoxy. Blends in pretty well.
Beautiful end result. Love it. Great video. Thanks for speeding it up and adding excellent commentary.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Thanks for watching.
This is a great tutorial! Straightforward and quick. Thanks!
Thank you Mary!
That was cool, I like how your black dye was still slightly translucent. I have not filled a void that large before, the voids I have filled were structural and I used t88 mixed with Carbon Black Jacquard Pearl Ex Powdered Pigment. This stuff turns the epoxy pitch black and worked really well on a spalted ambrosia maple slab table I built a few years ago. Its kind of a pricy way to pigment something but its what I had on hand from another project and worked darn well. While I don't think this would work on your translucent black dye, With carbon black as the pigment I think you could get away with creating a filler layer from ground coffee and blackened elmers glue, or some other type of media so you dont need as much epoxy in the void.
Nice video and great job. I have some slight cracks in a live edge cutting board and this should work. Hope all is well in Texas. Spent 8 months down there in Houston area training commercial pilots. In 2016 I witnessed huge rains and flooding like I have never seen,especially around Humble. I hope you are safe and we are all praying for you guy's. Peace.
Thanks, glad the view helped. All is well in the Austin area we are. Thanks and good luck with the board.
Thank you! Super helpful video 😊
Thanks Marguerite! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Great jam going on here!
Mate! This is good! Thank you!
Thanks! Cheers.
Have you ever tried a small vibrating system to remove the bubbles. Just about anything that would cause vibration set on the wood would probably work. Maybe a small bench grinder. Not sure how fast the resin sets up but I've used it for different applications to remove air bubbles.
Well done, looked great
Thank you. Cheers!
Beautiful
That torch tip for the bubbles - that's a good idea man.
Thanks! Cheers.
Heat gun works too with less potential damage
Fill from the back and the bubbles will go to the underside 🤷♂️
Nice info, nice music
The wood fill method looks good. What I do wonder is the following. Since the resin adheres to the surface, in this case it adheres to the tree bark. this seems to me to be a very unstable connection because the bark peels off easily.
I would remove the bark first, then apply the resin filling.
Thank you for posting this video. I'm wondering if you could use a heat gun versus a butane torch?
Hello Dane and Gudde Team. WOW! Thanks so much for your video, very useful and clear! I would be grateful if you could give me a suggestion. I left a bottle of gel bleach in a bag on the floor. It is an old, light colored, parquet; therefore, there is a very thin line of empty space between the pieces of wooden strips. For some reasons, the gel bleach leaked and, since the bag was not made of plastic (it was a cloth bag), it passed through and got to the floor. It stayed there for a very long time. The gel bleach had the time to literally dig a large hole in the parquet. Which now looks like a crater, about 6 cm or more in diameter, exposing the bottom layer of the floor, some sort of strange material. I thought to fill it with epoxy glue (Gorilla epoxy with the 2 syringes), wait that it dries, and then paint. I am glad to find out that I can mix the paint with the glue itself. I need to fix this quickly. It's not my home. I would be GRATEFUL if you could help me with the following questions: 1) Since I cannot fill from the back side, how do I address the need to leave a thin line between the wooden strips? (yes, the crater extends beyond 1 strip, affecting the two confining strips at its two sides too. 2) If I send you a picture of the parquet (how/where can I send it? Thanks), would you be able to tell me, approximately, what colors of what kind of paint should I buy? 3) I cannot spend much money on huge tanks, so, is the Gorilla Epoxy glue with 2 syringes ( www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-epoxy/1000778451 ) suitable for this job and can I mix that type too with the paint? 4) If the epoxy will end up overflowing, how can I gently smooth it without damaging the surrounding healthy parquet? 5) Any other suggestion? Like, if it had happened to you, what would you have done saving as much time and money as possible? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I will anxiously wait for your response and my apologies for the long comment. Kind regards.
Ok, just playing devil’s advocate here; my hubby and I liked the music!
looks good, i got a similar piece im working on.
Very nice! I wish you well.
great video and so helpfull! thanks
Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you for watching.
Nice video, what grit number do you use in your sander to remove the epoxy?
Typically 100 or 120 grit is what I use. If it's a huge pour then I may step dow to an 80 but that's as low as I go. Thanks for watching.
Good fill. I use packing tape to block off escape routes. I will usually insert. a Dutchman to reinforce the split, inserting it after the fill. If I have a light wood with a dark fill I create a dam around the void with a hot melt glue gun to prevent staining the light wood. I use epoxy from US Composites as they are less expensive and dry very clear.
D Tom the hot glue is a genius idea. I saw someone else do that the other day somewhere and thought it was pure genius. Thanks for the tips and for watching.
Thanks for the video! Quick question, how long do you wait between each of the initial fills? I saw you waited overnight to plane and then do the final fill....
One mistake that’s easy to make is filling in too much too soon. As the epoxy cures it generates a lot of heat and too much epoxy at once spells bad news. I typically wait a few hours between pours based on temp/weather conditions. When the epoxy is hard to the touch is when I go for more. Hope this helps.
Nice!
Great video! I know this video is a few years old now but I was wondering if you (or someone) could still answer my question. When you sand the epoxy down afterwards is it fine to just sand where the epoxy is? As a result it doesn't sand the wood down in that area more than the rest of the table? I'm just sanding mine down now and doing the entire table to keep it even and it's taking forever so I'd love to just spot sand but was worried about it. Thanks in advance!
Hey Rachel, in my experience, and what I choose to do when sanding down epoxy is to rough sand the excess on the surface flat to where it meets the level of the slab or wood I am working on. Then I continue my sanding steps as usual which are typically 100,150,180,220 grit. What you want to try and avoid is gouging the surface by angling your sander when you're taking down the epoxy. If you keep it flat and make wide passes you'll likely wind up with a better surface area that doesn't require any more flattening of the piece. Thanks for watching!
What I'm planning on attempting might be a huge stretch ...but I was thinking of building a deck with re-purposed telephone poles. The plan is to lay them and stack them like building a wall like a log cabin, but instead of cutting notches at the ends, I was going to brace them together by using 2 composite boards every 4 ft. and with galvenized screws.
But pertaining to this video ...I was going to seal the poles first by encasing them in epoxy, that way it would fill any gaps from future wear, and perhaps even give them some guard from having at least of the log-wall being buried in the ground. Is my idea a bad one? Do you think it will work? Any ideas?
Your idea sounds like it would work but it sounds also like it would be a potential waste of time. Telephone poles should be coated in tar or some sort of weather sealant anyway so adding epoxy would only add lots of extra cost and money to your overall project. I would forgo the epoxy personally but that's just me.
Also slippery
Great work! I have a burl that I am turning into a coffee table with similar cracks however the edge is really rough (live edge) how would I tape it off so it's epoxy escape proof? Cheers
That's a challenge most of the time. I typically will cut the ends with a circular saw if I'm filling on the end of a slab where the end grain is present. That gives a good surface for the tape to adhere. If it's the edges where the bark was present I would strip away all the bark, if any, and maybe give it a pass with a sander to get to some bare wood. Then dust it off and tape it up as best as possible. This is just how I would do it, not a golden rule written in stone. Good luck! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for posting - question, how did you seal the bottom of the slab so the epoxy did not just run thru?
I use blue painters tape on the opposite side. I've had no issues with that method to date so I haven't had a reason to try any other tape. Thanks for watching.
thank you
Hey, great work! How long did you wait between pours? Do you need to wait for it to fully cure? Or just a couple hours until it's not tacky anymore?
It's really all dependent on the current shop temps. If it's warmer you can get a way with waiting only a few hours. Colder means you're waiting a while. I would say that as soon as you can press on the poured area and not leave a fingerprint then you're good to go.
thank you for sharing this! what's the 207 hardener used for? any big differences?
The hardener is the second part of the 2 part expoxy. It does as the name suggests and starts the chemical process that cures the epoxy. They have several types of hardeners. This one is the fast that cures quickly and will cure in low to high temps. I've never used anything but the 207. Thanks for watching.
Hi, I have a walnut slab project that I laser etched a graphic onto and ploy coated the slab (about a year ago). It was a beginner project for me and I now want to go back and fill a crack very similar to yours in the video. I unfortunately cannot sand over the laser etched part of the slab. Do you think it will be ok to fill the crack, sand and apply poly finish to only the impact part of the slab? Thank you for any advice. Really appreciated your video. It got me started in epoxy work.
I don't have any real experience with using epoxy over a poly finish. My concern would be if the epoxy would adhere to the poly or not. You can always do a test piece before you do the real job and see what happens. My guess would be there would be no issues with it adhering, but I can't guarantee that. The real issue I can see happening is in a difference in surface finish between the current slab poly and where you want to pour and reapply the poly. In my experience it's near impossible to match an original poly with a repair such as this. Your best bet for overall consistency would be sand down the whole slab, epoxy what you need and refinish the whole thing. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
What kind of epoxy we can use the one casting or coating ?
Sense the split went fully though, what did you put on the backside to keep the epoxy from pouring everywhere?
I use blue painters tape exclusively on the opposing side for all epoxy fills. Thanks for watching!
If you use a slow hardening epoxy you could fill the whole thing in one go and have minimal, if any bubbles to worry about
The pin holes will always be there. They are just not large enough to surface unless u stay there for hours holding a torch. I think even then few won't make it up and pop
Good work ! I want to fill a large cavity on an electric guitar body, but then I want to be able to router the hole thats been filled ! What is the best filler to use...epoxy+wood flour, epoxy+microbubbles or epoxy+silica.
I'll be honest with you, I have no experience with any of the things you're considering so I am afraid I won't be of much help. I would recommend trying whatever you want to use on some scraps and route it before you go into your guitar. Hope that helps!
good point !
@@PK22-b7v what did you end up doing to solve your issue? A bit of epoxy and a filler would of been good enough.
A couple of questions. Would this be effective on Redwood? Is it durable enough for outdoor severe sun exposure?
Hey Richard, I can't speak from experience on the Redwood aspect, but I have no reason to think that it wouldn't work. This stuff has worked in every species I've used it in so far. The West System Epoxy that I use is a Marine grade epoxy. So my thought is that if it's good enough to be on the ocean then it's good enough for land. Hope this helps!
Nice video. Whats the difference in some using casting resin and some using epoxy till fill the voids and knotholes ? Is there a reason to use one over the other ? THanks
freebird1963 thanks for watching! I don’t have any experience with casting resin so I can’t give you any specifics. I know that this epoxy resin is primarily used in the boating industry so it’s intended to take a real beating while retaining its properties. I know people who use System 3 and have for years with good success. Best advice I have is to experiment. Good luck.
נפלא יפה ביותר.מקסים המשך לעשות סרטונים.shalom . from israel
Free palestine
Could vibrating the slab or area around the filling help get rid of bubbles? Like when you are vibrating concrete.
Also, do you clear out partly loose wood debris from void/crack?
I've not tried the vibrating technique. Another viewer actually asked the same thing. I see the logic behind it, but don't have a confirmation. To clear out the debris I use a chisel, screwdriver, air compressor etc. Whatever gets the job done. Thanks for watching.
Use a heat gun, vibrating it won't work because there's too many air pockets inside a knot and they will continue to come out over the hours of curing. If you use a heat gun and get it hat and moving, they will all come out. Don't try to get them all out at once or you'll create a scab coat trapping the air in the epoxy. Also use duct foil tape and not painters tape. It will hold perfectly!!
What tape do you use here thanks
Can you stain and put a self leveling epoxy on after all this? Without changing the west system?
Hey Nathan, I got your call and will call you back after all this crazy hurricane Harvey business is over. Sorry for the delay but they're calling for crazy stuff around here.
I am working on a slab for an island top. It has some nail holes in it that I like. I would like to fill them so food can't get in them but I would like to be able to see them. Would this product work for that if left clear? Or is there something else you would recommend.
Luke, I only used a black tint on this piece because I like the contrast between the Mesquite and the black epoxy. You can absolutely leave it un-tinted and go the clear route. I've done that many times on other pieces without an issue. Bubbles/air pockets are the only thing to watch out when you're going clear. You need to be more persistent with your torch work. Good luck with the island!
this is my first time im gonna try to make a coffee table but where do u find that type of wood style ?
This is Mesquite. It grows naturally all around my area in South Texas. Hard as a rock, but beautiful. Good luck with your table.
Finally someone who plays Good Music !!
Do you put the blue painters tape on the underside of the void you are filling as well as the end/opening?
Renee Schiro yep! That’s exactly how I do it when the crack carries over into the end of a piece. Thanks for watching.
That Festool sanding system with the dust extractor is a real lung-saver. When sanding epoxy you don't want any particles to get inhaled.
If your going to put an epoxy gloss tabletop coat over it, could you use flex seal liquid to fill the void? If I have more than a few voids, I dont want to have to worry about the dye consistency matching. (Dont care enough to try/do this myself)
I'm not really familiar with flex seal so I can't really weigh in on this one. Sorry, good luck with the project.
Will this brand of resin dry clear if without the black coloring? Or will it yellow instead of a nice clear?
Yes, it dries clear. Even after 10 months of storage it does dry clear. The hardener darkens with age but I haven't seen much of a noticeable yellowing. Thanks, Dane
Thanks for the video. What did you use on the bottom of the table to prevent the epoxy from escaping? Does painters tape work for that? I've tried melamine board with caulk and that works but if painters tape prevents the thin epoxy from leaking that would be so easy and cheap. I've tried heavy duty duct tape and the epoxy leaks right through that.
I’ve only ever used the blue painters tape. As long as you tape it up well I don’t often have any leakage. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried filling from the backside of the slab. Tape the top off the fill from the bottom. The bubbles rise then leave the top smooth. Then fill it with one pour and no blowtorch.
I have tried that. Issue I have run into doing it that way is the top or tape side seems to bulge out as the epoxy cures which can create bubbles as well.
Cool video 👍
Thank you for watching!
I have a tree trunk that I'm converting to a table and it has a fairly large "gash"/"void" (idk what exactly to call it) that I currently just have a couple of poly coats on but was thinking of filling it in with some expoxy or resin. would a hole that is several inches deep be possible with this method?
Thank you for watching! I would think this process would be a good option for a large crack. I would probably get the slow hardener though and pour it in multiple stages if it's a thick pour. There are other products out there designed for thicker pours. They cure very slowly to avoid generating too much heat as it cures. Hope this helps.
so im using this to fix a crack in my electric guitar, but i was wondering, after it dries, is it strong enough to support screws?
I can't tell you one way or another as I have never attempted to drill a screw into the epoxy before. What I can tell you is that the epoxy will chip and crack away when chiseled. I would highly recommend trying this on a test piece before you do it in your guitar. Make sure you drill a pilot hole before driving the screw in to help keep the epoxy from cracking or chipping.
Thanks,
Dane
If the crack is thin can you reduce the viscosity of the epoxy with acetone? Thanks, Mike
I haven't tried diluting the epoxy. I am not sure what would happen to be honest. Best I can recommend is to try it on a scrap piece to make sure it sets up.
I have a five minute epoxy from Lowe’s. Any reason that wouldn’t work for a long crack about half an inch wide, on a slab of black walnut?
I wouldn't really see why it wouldn't. Give it a whirl.
what do you do when you notice a crack on a finished table top?
That's a tricky one. You can still use this method of filling it on a finished top. I would recommend taping off the area around the crack as best as you can so the epoxy goes and stays where you want it. Once cured you can use a chisel, cabinet scraper, card scraper or a hand plane and level off the excess. Hope that gives you some options! Good luck.
Thanks!
No problem!
I do like the idea of pouring in three passes. Any concerns with the crack being clean? And how is the piece holding up?
I have never had any concerns with cleaning out the crack very much. I don't leave bark on if present but I typically blow out any dust and pour. The piece sold several years ago not long after this video was made and I haven't had any issues reported by the client. Thanks for watching!
For each pour do you have to let each one dry before pouring the next?
@@debbiesmtih I let it mostly cure so that it's at least hardened to the touch. I don't allow for a full 24 hour cure between pours if the weather conditions are optimal. Thanks for watching.
great video ! one question though is there a difference if i used a epoxy or resin ? iv never actually filled a void and i don't want to use the wrong thing . any advice would be appreciated thank in advance .
Annino Gabellone thanks! I can't speak to other brands but I know people who use other two part epoxy with no issues. I have found the West System to be good for what I do. I know that System Three makes a 2 part in smaller quantities if you don't need so much. I believe you also referenced heat, yes as epoxy cures it generates a lot of heat so I would recommend filling it in multiple stages over one giant pour. You're likely to have cracks that way, but if you do it slowly it should dry crack free.
Gudde Co. i'll have to take a look im from south africa so a lot of the stuff you guys inthe states have we don't . epoxy is very exspensive here so that's why i was asking if regular resin would work
Annino Gabellone ahh, well as long as the resin hardens then it would be the same I think. All the two part is is a resin and hardener, which the hardener just makes the resin cure much faster than by itself.
Craft stores sell two part acrylic that does the job.
Good video. Working on a table with a Singer sewing machine base and have a small void to fill. FYI the music detracts from an instructional video for me.
do you use the painters tape on the bottom of the crack so that it does not bleed out as well?
Yep! Painters tape on the underside works for me everytime.
Great video. 2 questions. 1. By using epoxy, do you limit what kind of finishes you can apply? Can you use a water based urethane? 2. Is an acrylic clear fill an option?
I can only answer your questions based on my experience. 95% of my pieces get an oil based finish which I have had no issues with using in conjunction with the epoxy. I have also sprayed a product made by ML Campbell for my commercial pieces and have seen no issues with that in conjunction with the epoxy. I don't see why you couldn't use a water based urethane but I have no experience with it. 2. I chose to tint this piece black to contrast the redness of the mesquite but I will often use the epoxy in it's natural color. As the epoxy ages it develops a more amber than clear color so that is something to note but clear is always an option. Thanks for watching!
@@Guddeco Thank you. Reason I was looking to use a water based finish is to avoid the "yellowing" caused by oil based finishes. Will have to test it myself then. Thanks
What are sanding alternatives for equipment if you can't afford or don't have the Rotex 150 sander (at $650 a pop)?
brianstecklercarmel you can use a jack plane which is what a lot of folks do. You can use a belt sander and incrementally increase your grits to get the marks out. Lots of alternatives, this is just what I do! Thanks for watching.
I want to do this with clear epoxy. Will these steps work to maintain a clear look?
Yes, do the same steps for clear epoxy. You'll want to be more diligent with the air bubble popping stage though due to it being clear.
I see you taped the outer edge to hold the epoxy in, what did you put under the crack?
I used the same tape on the underside as well. Just standard blue painters tape. Thanks for watching!
thank you
Wow amazing job bro. By the way, is there a special kind of epoxy, or i just ask for it in my local store? Thanks!
La Cueva Del Gamer Hey, the epoxy I use is a marine grade, 2 part system. The manufacturer is West System epoxy and is typically carried in most marine shops. It's unlikely your hardware store will have it. Online ordering is an option as well. Stuff isn't the least expensive out there but it goes a long way. Thanks for watching!
Hello there. Is there anyway I can fix a crack on a painted project without ruining it? 🤦🏻♀️
Crack appeared on both sides 2 days after painting the wood.
ACORD1213 I suppose you could fill it with clear Epoxy. That, or you can sand off the paint, fill and repaint. That’s a tough scenario. I don’t work with any painted projects so I’m not sure the best way to solve that one.
When I fill voids in my live Edgewood I use epoxy in Walnut sandblast works great
I pour the two part epoxy then I dump fine Walnut sandblast on the top and work it in and take off the excess and let it set then sand when dry looks great JB
Aweosome tip. Thanks for watching!
You bought that epoxy from marina? Would like to see end result on your table I have a piece of black walnut would like to try to build table with...nice job fyi
I bought it from West Marine in the Austin area. Available now on amazon or other places as well. Thanks for watching.
I have a Round of Myrtlewood I'm making into a Cutting board now I have 3 cracks about an 1/8th of an inch probably smaller. Will the Epoxy work to keep the cracks from spreading after continuous washing and water contact?
I can't guarantee that it will hold any crack because I've seen slabs of walnut bust epoxy and dovetail keys. It certainly won't hurt it's chances, but I would recommend doing some research on the food safety factors of the epoxy you plan on using. The one I use in this video, I don't believe, is considered food safe. Good luck with the project!
@@Guddeco Yes I will for sure! Thanks for the feedback!
Awesome video! are there specific types of tint dyes that can only be used to be mixed with the epoxy?
Hey Nicholas, I use the concentrated Trans-Tint dye but I know lots of fellow woodworkers who use powdered dyes from art supply stores. I also have used sawdust from the same species I'm working with to dye it a little. The trick with the sawdust though, is that it needs to be very fine or else it won't dye it and will look like you trapped dust in the epoxy....I've been there. Thanks for watching!
How did you keep the epoxy from seeping through to the other side since it was a full transverse crack?
I use blue painters tape to cover anything on the underside. Never fails me.
What about the underside? Is it just up against another piece of wood or did you tape it as well?
Ashley McElfresh hey thanks for watching! I use the same tape to tape up the bottom so it creates a nice bottom layer. Apologies for not showing it but it’s plain blue painters tape. Thanks!
what do the different hardener numbers mean. example west systems has 205 206 and 207 which are which
I'm really not certain off the top of my head what the numbers correspond to. I believe the 205 is fast hardener but 206 and 207 I'm not sure. You can check it out on the west system website, www.westsystem.com/. Thanks for watching.
Did you just use painter's tape for the underside too? How did you prepare the underside?
I use painters tape on the underside. It's worked for me every pour. No real preparation except for a clean finish for the tape to stick too. Thanks for watching.
How did the epoxy get hard so fast? Was it the propane torch that hardened it? How long did you apply the torch to the epoxy that was in the crack. Since it was a deep crack the epoxy had to be applied in layers, right? Thank you for a reply.
I may have misspoke when I said 3 fills for the day. I believe it was over the course of two days, but I was able to get two pours in one day. The summer heat in Austin makes it very easy to do multiple pours. The propane torch is only used for popping the air bubbles and not to speed up the setting up time.
@@Guddeco so pouring the resin in smaller batches makes it easier to remove air bubbles but do u have to let each pour set ?so 24 hours in between each pour how does it work though if one mix is slightly different will the resin still look equal in colure
@@mattschannel1502 Since it is generally warm here in South Texas where I live I can pour every few hours after the resin has time to set up. I am also using the fast hardener activator to speed up the process a little bit, while retaining the ability to work in a 40 degree temp day if I need to. The short of it is, it all depends on ambient temp. The warmer it is, the quicker you can stack the pours. I haven't noticed any differences in colors, but yet again I am stacking them and rarely use a clear color. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
I see you used blue tape on the side, but what did you use on the bottom?
I use the same on the bottom. Blue painters tape. Hasn't failed me yet. Thanks for watching.
What kind of dye did you use?
Trans-Tint dye is used in this video but many other dyes can be used. I've seen people use artist powder dyes with good success.
Tremendous
What do you use to finish the wood with?
I believe this one was Rubio Monocoat. I use Boiled Linseed Oil a lot now as well.
What kind of tape did you use to avoid leaking?
Standard painters blue tape believe it or not. That's my go to tape. Cheers!
On this job, no bow tie to hold together? Is epoxy strong enough with wood expansion?
Hey Kevin, I decided for this build that a bowtie wasn't what I wanted. I have friends who will do both epoxy and a bowtie but since Mesquite is known for being a stable wood, much more so than other species, I opted for epoxy only. I haven't had any reports of issues yet. I have been using epoxy only in cracks on projects for a few years now when I don't feel like a bowtie matches what I'm after and it's all held up without any splitting. Thanks for watching, hope this helps.
Gudde Co. thanks so much for the note back. Keep up the great project work and videos 👍
Wow man, ironically we are trying to do the same thing except we are trying to fill holes in a guitar. They are very small cracks in the mesquite we are using. Someone also told us to use a sealer before applying the epoxy but he also said that may change the color of the wood. What do you think we should do?
Well, I don't have tons of experience working with mesquite other than a few of these pieces. In my experience, even using dyed epoxy, I didn't get any color changes in the wood. You can always use the epoxy without dying it so there's no chance of coloring the pieces. Good luck, I would try it on a test piece before you go the real deal if it's important work.
Thanks man!
Great vid, what finish did you end up using? I'm also working on a mesquite slab but not happy with the yellowish color that comes out with wipe on poly (clear satin)
Thanks. I used Rubio Monocoat 2C Pure. I never use poly as a standalone finish. I will mix it in a 3 part Maloof style finish but I don't like the plastic look you get from it. The three part is Tung, Boiled Linseed and Poly in equal parts. Thanks for watching.
just wondering does that tape holds well
Dan Mazza absolutely. It’s the only tape I use and have been for several years. Thanks for watching!
I thought this video was going to show me how to fill a void in my heart and in my life.
Even epoxy can't fill that.
Ej Icon Have you tried beef jerky? Works for me.
That's on the part deux video followup to this one. Filling those pesky voids in wood, hearts, souls and minds with minimal work for anyone.
Why do you think the gods made beer??? Try Dirty Bastard Scotch Ale - brewed in old scotch barrels - 8.5 %. Goooood stuffffff.
Hi, How can I buy Epoxy (part A+B) and color liqid at Vietnam?
dHave a friend in America ship it to you.
If you taped the top and filled from the bottom as opposed to top would that reduce bubbles as they would rise to the bottom? Just sayin".
That is certainly an option. Not always an option but it can be done that way. Thanks for watching!
Did you use deep pour epoxy
I used West System 105 2 part epoxy. Thanks!
Which tape do you recommend for sealing the edge?
All I use is standard painter's tape, the blue kind. Whatever I can find. Works wonders.
Gudde Co. thanks, I tried 3 different tapes on a similar project but they did not stick properly & the resin just leaked
Safa Sawa: I had awful leaks on a recent project but decided I had not used enough tape. Next I did three tape layers each one extending further, and wrapping any edge if possible. Next time I will just use caulk around the edge and brad nail some thin plywood over it
what type of epoxy did you use?
I used West Systems 2 part epoxy.
Can you use anything else other than epoxy to fill the voids? And coat it with PU? I Mean for this specific color(black)
Also do you have any experience with parota wood? (huanacaxtle or Guanacaste depending on the region)
I've not tried to fill voids with anything but epoxy so I am not so sure on other methods. Thanks for watching.
@@Guddeco thank you sr. Subscribed 👍🏼
@@pedrocano1857 That is so kind of you thank you!
@@pedrocano1857 Looks like I'm striking out on all your inquiries today. I have experience with Imbuia but not Parota. I've used the epoxy with great success with the imbuia but I can't speak to the Parota.
How long before you removed the tape and did you fill from the front or back?
The removal of the tape can vary based on my ambient temp and humidity. In the summer I can remove it in a few hours and let it cure the rest of the way. Winter months can be several hours, it all depends on temps. I remove it when it tacks and cures enough to not run any more. If I have a crack completely through a piece then I will usually fill from the back or bottom of the piece, but that's not always the case. No hard fast rule for me on that. Thanks for watching.
Gudde Co. thanks mate nice one
What was the torch used for?
I use it to pop air bubbles that rise to the surface. Thanks for watching!
I used the same method and everything went well. After It fully cured, the top is nice and hard but when I removed the tape, the epoxy on the face that was covered with tape is sticky. Any idea on why that is? how can I fix it? ( Its not from poor mixing)
I have never experienced that. You mention it was not from poor mixing but were you using the pumps? I really can't think of any reason it would be not fully cured unless it wasn't given enough time perhaps? You may want to contact West System for more expert info. Thanks for watching.
I drilled a pothole in my guitar can i used this to fill the hole in ?
I wouldn't see why not. You'll likely need to overfill to ensure the hole gets filled. Thanks for watching!
For the record, I've watched 10 different videos from various people and ALL had background music. As I sat and thought this over, I realized that most of them were not too interesting, and I'd fall asleep without the music. I think the music fits "you", and that's what CZcams IS. each channel is THEM. It might be a tad loud, but somettimes that's CZcams's fault with how they concert the audio files upon upload. But overall, it's fine :)
Would epoxy be hell on planer blades?
Will Corbett I have done it. I wouldn’t recommend it though because it tears out really bad. I’ve got a helical Head planet and I got a lot of tear out so unless you’re running it through a drum sander after I would advise against it. But I didn’t notice any harm to my planter but I also don’t make a habit of it.
how long do you leave between pours?
I usually wait no less than 12 hours because I'm using the Fast Hardener. Depending on the temp/humidity it can dry faster or slower but I just stick to the directions West System recommends.
Gudde Co. thanks!