Cotton wood works very well when Its sun dried completely or aged . Make all your tools from the same branch. Keep the bow at about the length of your arm. Make sure your spindle is as straight as possible. Antler or bone can make a good bearing block. The dried stalks of the yucca plant work great for a spindle bc you dont have to push quite as hard. If you cant leave a thumb nail imprint in the wood your using then Its probably too dense. Keep all your materials dry & in your pack to prevent moisture saturation. If your injured, stressed or exhausted from a trauma related survival scenario, the fire plow or fire roll method might be a better option. Cotton like material rubbed in wood ash will ignite much quicker with friction between two flat boards. Have your tinder bundle ready in advance & all your fire lay materials on hand at arms reach. With every friction fire you have success with will boost your confidence in the skillset. Thanks for sharing your experience. Enjoy the outdoors!
@@Vikingwerk that's what community is for! I know I glean a lot from others, through these guys Ive recently learned I have three candidates for hand drill spindles, whoo hoo! Good luck in your ventures brother 👊
@@Level3ReadinessTwo tips. Easy bearing block. Take a tea spoon and an old bolt and knock a divet into the spoon. You can leave the handle on and use it for lots of other stuff including a spoon or cut the handle off and wear it. Second instead of using a single cord double it, let's you use smaller cord too, I prefer a roll of bank line and just double and twist it if I need it thicker. Now for the line on the bow drill look at Felix Immler (the swiss army knife guy) bow drill you can watch it easier than I can explain it.
What made the critical difference for me was wrapping the string twice around the drill. That reduced slippage and also tended to prevent 'spin out' where the wrap opens. Also wrapping the right direction is important because the bow is naturally inclined downwards and the wrap will tend to open on the forward stroke when it's wound one way rather than the other. As to materials, (I live in the UK ) I go for hazel every time. It's abundant wet and dry, and works well for all components. A piece of scrap tin or a bottlecap backed up by wood work well for the top bearing if you have it. Otherwise, pine lubricated with a crushed leaf works.
No kidding, the double string wrap made a geat difference here too. I think its best to go that route, especially when just starting out with bow drill. Seasoned practitioners can make a lot of non-ideal methods work. Great idea using a bottle cap 👊 I'll have to try that some time! Thanks for sharing!
I imagine using a longer bow can be a big help as well because you spend less energy switching directions to get the same heat generated. Also regarding the log technique, I think a basic thing you forgot about was simply which foot you put on the the fireboard and just make sure its the same side as your pressure hand
Agreed! Very important point, get those reversed and instability will definitely ensue! Thanks for sharing that insight! As far as bow length, I've always gone with one about the distance of your elbow to your stretched out middle finger, I can see a couple of added inches. Are you talking about more length that that?
@@Level3Readiness I would love to see you try all the things mentioned here in the comments. I will subscribe, I want to learn as much as possible, since we all live in different environments, and may have to use different materials and ways to get things done. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge, I highly appreciate! ❤
Well done, friend. S for technique, I would add that an improperly carved notch and applying too much downward pressure in the beginning are the two biggest reasons for failure.
Most welcome, I always feel there's not enough time to neatly package the info, hopefully it inspires others to get outside and try out some of the knowledge we share. Thanks again for the support 👊
I used a dead hemlock top for drill and base for burn in board (split out of the center 10- 12 " long my bow was shaped like a lightning bolt with paracord a boot lace will suffice. If your boot laces suck switch em out for paracord I recommend doubled over so you have twice as much . Don't want a long drill.no more than 10" / use talo or pine pitch on the point (upper end) as a lubricant / after burn in and at the start of every use , you should blunt the bottom of drill so it resembles a new pencil eraser this will create most friction and give best results. I learned how to make & use a fire drill from a native micmac resident here in Maine , I have been lucky I guess because I have produced fire with out fail every time several dozen times. It has never not worked. Prep and practice are your friends.
@@aaftiyoDkcdicurak I think there is an optimum length, usually suggested to go as long as the length of your elbow to tip of the middle finger, I could see adding a few inches. Are you talking longer than what I just mentioned?
I've had no luck storing in plastic bags, with temp changes I end up with moisture in the bag. Do you ever have that issue??? Curious if you're doing something different from me 🤔
Absolutely, I got that ember and was going to leave it at that, and then I got the urge to bring it to a flame and just grabbed what was laying near by... But Yes! Had I planned better I'd have had a tinder bundles in waiting! Great observation 👊
🤣😂🤣 admittedly the flame was an after thought, I grabbed some paper birch bark and just wanted to see if I could get ignition... I did 😂 so there you have it ... I'm rolling here 👊
How are maple and birch for this? "It does come if you don't quit" --- if you don't wear out your arms too much. I wonder if pine pitch (powdered) would help it get started better. Just a little bit mixed in with the tender (what a weird word - I can never remember it..., or spell it apparently). I think you need to work out the tinder more. I've seen them catch must faster. btw, I came across something that said that birch bark makes great tinder.
I've had good success with birch! It needs to be of certain age and dried out, I find it often in this condition on the woodland floor. Maple, imo, is tough, Ive gotten it but It wouldn't be my first choice. 😂 Tinder, yeah funny when you listen to it. Oh yeah as far as my tinder went, it was paper birch bark, I didn't process it very well though as you can see how long it took! Thanks for the input 👊
Definitely could effect the outcome, huh!?!? But barring a torrential downpour and saturated materials, its possible to dry as you bow. That's where entrance plays a major role 👍
You're on it 👊 materials were my undoing in 2021, along with my bowing technique, the persistence and growing endurance as well as successful examples lead me to my own success in bow drill.
Cotton wood works very well when Its sun dried completely or aged . Make all your tools from the same branch. Keep the bow at about the length of your arm. Make sure your spindle is as straight as possible. Antler or bone can make a good bearing block. The dried stalks of the yucca plant work great for a spindle bc you dont have to push quite as hard. If you cant leave a thumb nail imprint in the wood your using then Its probably too dense. Keep all your materials dry & in your pack to prevent moisture saturation. If your injured, stressed or exhausted from a trauma related survival scenario, the fire plow or fire roll method might be a better option. Cotton like material rubbed in wood ash will ignite much quicker with friction between two flat boards. Have your tinder bundle ready in advance & all your fire lay materials on hand at arms reach. With every friction fire you have success with will boost your confidence in the skillset. Thanks for sharing your experience. Enjoy the outdoors!
Excellent commentary 👊
I agree.
Finally, someone who references the materials i actually have in my area!
@@Vikingwerk that's what community is for! I know I glean a lot from others, through these guys Ive recently learned I have three candidates for hand drill spindles, whoo hoo! Good luck in your ventures brother 👊
@@Level3ReadinessTwo tips. Easy bearing block. Take a tea spoon and an old bolt and knock a divet into the spoon. You can leave the handle on and use it for lots of other stuff including a spoon or cut the handle off and wear it.
Second instead of using a single cord double it, let's you use smaller cord too, I prefer a roll of bank line and just double and twist it if I need it thicker. Now for the line on the bow drill look at Felix Immler (the swiss army knife guy) bow drill you can watch it easier than I can explain it.
Reason 1, you dont have one and are watching this inside with air conditioning on
🤣😂🤣
Wish I'd thought of that one 👍
Tru dat!
See thats my issue right there.
@@xPumaFangx honesty is underrated 👊
What made the critical difference for me was wrapping the string twice around the drill. That reduced slippage and also tended to prevent 'spin out' where the wrap opens. Also wrapping the right direction is important because the bow is naturally inclined downwards and the wrap will tend to open on the forward stroke when it's wound one way rather than the other.
As to materials, (I live in the UK ) I go for hazel every time. It's abundant wet and dry, and works well for all components. A piece of scrap tin or a bottlecap backed up by wood work well for the top bearing if you have it. Otherwise, pine lubricated with a crushed leaf works.
No kidding, the double string wrap made a geat difference here too. I think its best to go that route, especially when just starting out with bow drill. Seasoned practitioners can make a lot of non-ideal methods work. Great idea using a bottle cap 👊 I'll have to try that some time! Thanks for sharing!
I imagine using a longer bow can be a big help as well because you spend less energy switching directions to get the same heat generated.
Also regarding the log technique, I think a basic thing you forgot about was simply which foot you put on the the fireboard and just make sure its the same side as your pressure hand
Agreed! Very important point, get those reversed and instability will definitely ensue! Thanks for sharing that insight! As far as bow length, I've always gone with one about the distance of your elbow to your stretched out middle finger, I can see a couple of added inches. Are you talking about more length that that?
@@Level3Readiness I would love to see you try all the things mentioned here in the comments. I will subscribe, I want to learn as much as possible, since we all live in different environments, and may have to use different materials and ways to get things done. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge, I highly appreciate! ❤
@@JackyHeijmans of course, you are most welcome, wishing you the best in your efforts and endeavors 👍
Well done, friend. S for technique, I would add that an improperly carved notch and applying too much downward pressure in the beginning are the two biggest reasons for failure.
Thanks! That could definitely make the list 👊
It seems like if you had crumbled up some of your tinder it might have started quicker . But persistence pays off . Good job .
Thanks! I agree, will definitely keep that in mind next go round 👊
True mate, persistence pays off 💪
Always 👊
Recommend dry fluffy plant material - old mans beard, cat tail, cotton wood pods, etc.
Great materials indeed!!!
Good information , thank you for getting that out there!
Most welcome, I always feel there's not enough time to neatly package the info, hopefully it inspires others to get outside and try out some of the knowledge we share. Thanks again for the support 👊
That never gets old
@@PixelPals_11 you got that right, as long as newcomers start the journey!
Perfect timing!;)
Impeccable I'd say 😂
I used a dead hemlock top for drill and base for burn in board (split out of the center 10- 12 " long my bow was shaped like a lightning bolt with paracord a boot lace will suffice. If your boot laces suck switch em out for paracord I recommend doubled over so you have twice as much .
Don't want a long drill.no more than 10" / use talo or pine pitch on the point (upper end) as a lubricant / after burn in and at the start of every use , you should blunt the bottom of drill so it resembles a new pencil eraser this will create most friction and give best results.
I learned how to make & use a fire drill from a native micmac resident here in Maine , I have been lucky I guess because I have produced fire with out fail every time several dozen times. It has never not worked. Prep and practice are your friends.
Too cool! Great that you got to learn from a master of friction fire 👊
I found a long bow let's you get more revolutions per stroke and requires less effort.
@@aaftiyoDkcdicurak I think there is an optimum length, usually suggested to go as long as the length of your elbow to tip of the middle finger, I could see adding a few inches. Are you talking longer than what I just mentioned?
Using lint from dryer filter kept in a plastic bag works well for starter material
I've had no luck storing in plastic bags, with temp changes I end up with moisture in the bag. Do you ever have that issue??? Curious if you're doing something different from me 🤔
@@Level3Readiness moisture gets in the bag from the air , so be sure to use air tight bag like ziplock
Two words: Flint, Steel.
🤣😂🤣 flint & steel have saved my outing on more than one occasion 👍
Wouldn’t a tinder bundle been a better choice as fuel?
Absolutely, I got that ember and was going to leave it at that, and then I got the urge to bring it to a flame and just grabbed what was laying near by... But Yes! Had I planned better I'd have had a tinder bundles in waiting! Great observation 👊
Good info thank you.
Thanks! Looking back there's hours worth of advice I left out, That's why community is so important, specifics can be hashed out!
One skill i need to learn.
Great one to have indeed! Its attainable 👊
good job friend
Thanks! Much appreciated 👊
What the heck are you piling on top of your burning ember? Put the ember in a bird's nest of materials.
🤣😂🤣 admittedly the flame was an after thought, I grabbed some paper birch bark and just wanted to see if I could get ignition... I did 😂 so there you have it ... I'm rolling here 👊
How are maple and birch for this?
"It does come if you don't quit" --- if you don't wear out your arms too much.
I wonder if pine pitch (powdered) would help it get started better. Just a little bit mixed in with the tender (what a weird word - I can never remember it..., or spell it apparently).
I think you need to work out the tinder more. I've seen them catch must faster.
btw, I came across something that said that birch bark makes great tinder.
I've had good success with birch! It needs to be of certain age and dried out, I find it often in this condition on the woodland floor. Maple, imo, is tough, Ive gotten it but It wouldn't be my first choice. 😂 Tinder, yeah funny when you listen to it. Oh yeah as far as my tinder went, it was paper birch bark, I didn't process it very well though as you can see how long it took! Thanks for the input 👊
@@Level3Readiness - thanks
@@jeffg4686 anytime 👍
Are reasons 1-4 you wood is too wet?
Definitely could effect the outcome, huh!?!? But barring a torrential downpour and saturated materials, its possible to dry as you bow. That's where entrance plays a major role 👍
Reason 6 - you’re using Sweet Chestnut
Tell it 😂
Lmao what u doing Michael
🤣😂🤣 happy to be the source of laughter 👊
So your drill is sft wood and the base is hard?
You're on it 👊 materials were my undoing in 2021, along with my bowing technique, the persistence and growing endurance as well as successful examples lead me to my own success in bow drill.