Great Video thanks. I have a question. I recently got one of these tube testers, the short test position 1 & 2 is always on. I have even removed the internal two tubes (6X4 & 5U4GB) to see if that is causing the problem. Also cleaned all the switches with contact spray. Can you please share the service manual link? Any help is appreciated.
Max: The manuals can be found at the Boat Anchor Manual Archive : bama.edebris.com/manuals/precise/111/ It should be relatively easy to figure out as the device was offered as a kit, so the manuals are really detailed. It sort of sounds as if yours may have been wired wrong, but hard to say. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Peter, Thanks for watching and for your question. If I recall I was following the setup instructions as per Precise, and they specified 10V, but if I am incorrect please let me know. Which chart are you referring to, the roll chart on the tester itself, or the manufacturer's charts? Thanks again!
@@telefunkian thank you for the great video. Yes they say to use the 10v bias setting and set at 5v bias for 6C4 A 6C4 by the chart is 4.8 The 6L6 they just say to set as indicated which is 2.9v. As for chart errors they state on the chart the settings for a 6L6 for EM are the same as those in the GM test. Two little hatch marks. But in the calibration of EM; the 6L6 settings used in diagram C are very different. I just received two calibration tubes. One 6C4 and a 6L6. Also restored a Heathkit VTVM to do the calibration with. I have heard mixed reviews on this tester.
I have one of these for a couple of years now. Once calibrated, tedious but easy task, the instrument is quite capable and dependable. Would you be so nice to provide a snapshot of the tables you've got in the wooden case lid as seen in the beginning of this video? My 111 don't have those. Thanks a lot in advance.
Very nice video. A question regarding calibration... Considering the 1950's age of this unit I would be curious as to whether calibrating parts of a tester like this with a modern digital multimeter would give an inaccurate calibration. The reason I question this is for this reason: Back when this tester was new people used analogue multimeters with an input impedance of around 10k Ohms/Volt. A modern digital multimeter can have an input impedance of 1M Ohm/Volt. If you are measuring a high voltage, low current circuit and the unit was designed to be calibrated with an analogue meter that loads the circuit with something like 10K Ohm/V then a digital meter that loads the circuit with 1M Ohm/V would likely give a different calibration result which would be more technically "accurate" but would not give the calibration result that is "correct" with regards the intended outcome. I would be interested in your thoughts on this. If it was sold in kit form to be built and calibrated by hobbyists I doubt that they would have expected builders to have VTVM's at hand so they would have printed the calibration results to be correct when calibrated with a basic analogue multimeter.
Thanks for your comment. I think you are quite right to bring up the impedance question, as in certain circumstances using the wrong meter could bias results. The calibration and build instructions for this tester do specify a VTVM, but also include instructions for calibration if an AC VTVM is not 'available'. Thankfully, I don't think this issue is of too much concern in the calibration of _this_ device, but certainly in more complex systems translating calibration instructions that rely on the use of a VTVM with a specified impedance (sometimes 50k ohms/v or greater) can be tricky. All the more reason to try to keep a VTVM on hand for those rare occasions where they might be required? Thanks for watching!
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Great video, your tester is in very nice condition would make a great addition to your test equipment
great I ave one 111 with outh calibration now I tray to do
Great Video thanks. I have a question. I recently got one of these tube testers, the short test position 1 & 2 is always on. I have even removed the internal two tubes (6X4 & 5U4GB) to see if that is causing the problem. Also cleaned all the switches with contact spray. Can you please share the service manual link? Any help is appreciated.
Max: The manuals can be found at the Boat Anchor Manual Archive : bama.edebris.com/manuals/precise/111/
It should be relatively easy to figure out as the device was offered as a kit, so the manuals are really detailed. It sort of sounds as if yours may have been wired wrong, but hard to say. Good luck and thanks for watching!
You mentioned the bias settings on the 6C4 and 6L6 at 10v during calibration.
Should it not be set to 4.8v and 2.9v as per the chart?
Peter, Thanks for watching and for your question. If I recall I was following the setup instructions as per Precise, and they specified 10V, but if I am incorrect please let me know. Which chart are you referring to, the roll chart on the tester itself, or the manufacturer's charts? Thanks again!
@@telefunkian thank you for the great video.
Yes they say to use the 10v bias setting and set at 5v bias for 6C4
A 6C4 by the chart is 4.8
The 6L6 they just say to set as indicated which is 2.9v.
As for chart errors they state on the chart the settings for a 6L6 for EM are the same as those in the GM test.
Two little hatch marks.
But in the calibration of EM; the 6L6 settings used in diagram C are very different.
I just received two calibration tubes.
One 6C4 and a 6L6.
Also restored a Heathkit VTVM to do the calibration with.
I have heard mixed reviews on this tester.
I have one of these for a couple of years now. Once calibrated, tedious but easy task, the instrument is quite capable and dependable.
Would you be so nice to provide a snapshot of the tables you've got in the wooden case lid as seen in the beginning of this video?
My 111 don't have those. Thanks a lot in advance.
Very nice video. A question regarding calibration... Considering the 1950's age of this unit I would be curious as to whether calibrating parts of a tester like this with a modern digital multimeter would give an inaccurate calibration. The reason I question this is for this reason: Back when this tester was new people used analogue multimeters with an input impedance of around 10k Ohms/Volt. A modern digital multimeter can have an input impedance of 1M Ohm/Volt. If you are measuring a high voltage, low current circuit and the unit was designed to be calibrated with an analogue meter that loads the circuit with something like 10K Ohm/V then a digital meter that loads the circuit with 1M Ohm/V would likely give a different calibration result which would be more technically "accurate" but would not give the calibration result that is "correct" with regards the intended outcome. I would be interested in your thoughts on this.
If it was sold in kit form to be built and calibrated by hobbyists I doubt that they would have expected builders to have VTVM's at hand so they would have printed the calibration results to be correct when calibrated with a basic analogue multimeter.
Thanks for your comment. I think you are quite right to bring up the impedance question, as in certain circumstances using the wrong meter could bias results. The calibration and build instructions for this tester do specify a VTVM, but also include instructions for calibration if an AC VTVM is not 'available'. Thankfully, I don't think this issue is of too much concern in the calibration of _this_ device, but certainly in more complex systems translating calibration instructions that rely on the use of a VTVM with a specified impedance (sometimes 50k ohms/v or greater) can be tricky. All the more reason to try to keep a VTVM on hand for those rare occasions where they might be required? Thanks for watching!