2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel maintenance
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2021
- I apologize for not including the tow hook install but he video was already getting long. In this video I cover the front differential service, oil change, troubleshooting, and a few tips and tricks for working on your own vehicle.
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Funny how your video pops up on a day where I changed the oil on my 2005 Liberty CRD. Lubri Moly is an excellent oil . I worked for an ambulance company that used that exclusively in their diesels with excellent results. I do have a Fumoto valve on mine instead of the drain plug. And ues 6.3 quarts with the stock size filter
I rotate all 5 and cross over also. Recommendations for radials have changed over the years.
Also changed a window regulator today, surprise surprise! 21:15
Actually the manual calls for 0-40 motor oil but 5-40 is fine. I change the fuel filter every 20k miles and fill the fuel filter with sea foam to clean the injection system. Seems to work.
@paulkarbowski2438 I followed what's on the cap. I think there was a tsb around 2008 where the caps were changed and the recommended oil type was changed due to excessive oil consumption and egr problems from the added soot.
Any idea where the radiator temp sensor is located on the 2005 CRD 2.8 engine?
Typically jeep liked to put them on the upper radiator hose close to the thermostat. Most of the time it would be on the thermostat housing.
Sir good day.im from the Philippines.my sister bought a Cherokee kk liberty crd in italy and sheep it home.we used it for some time... 1st trouble cought up on the clutch so we remedy it using loval clutch disc.then on,it work but not for long then i get it towed for service.the clutch release bearing and pressure plate are affected.we can't find parts for it.but as it was stuck in the garage i let the engine run regularly for some time then the fan belt was damage as the engine was running then it cought fire.maybe it is couse by the besring that spins it has creeking sound.can you help me where to find parts for it?thank you
Unfortunately I don't have good news for you. Here in the states only 2 model years came with a diesel and that was the 05/06 kj. So my only known source for parts or any information would have to come from your local dealer. A quick Google search shows Manila and quezon city are the only dealers in your country. Where yours is a Eurospec (european) you may have to order parts from Europe but your local dealer is going to be your best bet.
Thinking of purchasing one with 125k miles for 1k . Not starting . Would you say these are good investments for point a to point b
That's a tough one. Depending on the area you're in and that kind of mileage you're looking at 4 to 5k in value. Not knowing why it won't start can be problematic... If it needs a simple thing it's not a problem. Given the mileage though it's at the point that the timing belt will snap if it wasn't replaced at 100k.
So with that being said and not knowing your mechanical inclination... How comfortable are you with head replacement on a diesel? The 2.8 is a good engine but it had a few quirks that if not done can lead to catastrophic failure that can be exceedingly expensive if you're not fassile with a wrench.
i have 2006 2.8 liberty been told it has a weeping injector as i get a hard start white smoke when it first starts the problem is how do i find out which one is weeping as its inside the pot would really like some help
ps great video
thanks from the UK
This is not the answer you're going to want to hear but it's the best answer I can give. With modern common rail engines if you have one injector go bad you should replace all the injectors. The theory behind it is 2 parts. First the injectors have a balance and wear to them. If you just change out the one bad injector then the other 3 injectors are not going to be spraying the same as the new injector which will cause a cylinder imbalance. The second part of that is, since one injector is going bad the other 3 are more than likely on the verge of ending up like your "weeping injector.
The only way I know to test for a weep is to pull all the injectors and have them tested. A good diesel shop will be able to run a full range of tests and give you a spec sheet on them with recommendations. And that's where the problem comes in my eyes. If you're going to pull the injectors to get tested why not save a little time and just order a good set of balanced injectors? Get the old injectors tested and if any of them are good seal them up and either sell them on ebay to someone else or save them for the next time you have an injector problem.
One last note. Dont buy the cheapest injectors you can find. You can find OEM injectors online that are 1/4 the cost of everyone else. I've done that before and ended up having to buy the more expensive o es because they weren't actually "oem" but a cheap knock off with questionable quality comtrol.
I need help. 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Diesel: I was pulling 4k pounds for about 500 miles and the last 80 miles was a solid gradual up hill. I noticed it wasn't going into over drive about 20 miles before the big problem started. We heard a pop. Not a super loud pop but a pop any way. Noticed there was zero oil but was idling fine, just no power at all. It would move a foot and stop so I quickly shut her down. Sent a friend down 6 hours from home to pick it up. He poured a gallon of oil in it and it all ran out. He said a lot of oil was coming out of the exhaust. It doesn't overheat or smell like burnt antifreeze. Also there was no check engine light on but the oil light did come on a little and I added some oil but the oil light went off and never came back on. Did I blow my motor or am I lucky enough that this could be just the turbo or something even cheaper? I can't afford this right now. =(
It sounds to me like you blew the turbo. If it's running out of oil and not running out onto the ground but has a smoky exhaust you probably lost the exhaust side bearing in the turbo.
Diagnosing the turbo is fairly simple but takes a little time. Pull the airbox and the turbo intake tube. You will be able to see the intake turbine. You should be able to spin it with 2 fingers and there should be no forward to aft movement. If the turbine spins freely it should be good. I don't think it's going to spin freely.
I don't think it was this video but in one of our videos I was troubleshooting an intermittent loss of power issue and pulled everything to the turbo to see it spin. I'll try to find the video in a few minutes and post up a link.
And when/if you find the issue please let us know.
Here's the video of getting in and checking the turbo.
czcams.com/video/8-B603Of0Nc/video.html
happend to me twice once i blew oil pressure sensor while second time my wife was driving uphill in the summer in second gear despite automatic transmission she kept second the ingine light came up i turned off the engine for 5 minutes and never happend again for a year
@@fabriziofacco2965 I sold it last year. Although I love the fact that it's a diesel, it's still a Mopar POS with the whole rest of the vehicle. I'm sticking to my Japanese's vehicles from now on. Ended up with a new Subaru Forester and I'm happy.
@@generalcaeser9176 subaru forester is a superb veichle
To avoid any confusion, possibly for others watching, radials only front to back on the same side. for rotating tires.
www.bridgestoneamericas.com/en/corporate-social-responsibility/safety/maintaining-tires/tire-rotation
I was always taught to cross my tires too by my Dad, never had any issues, I think you did a fine job on the maintenance sir!
I hope you didn't drive on them that way too much.
150 miles towing a wood splitter half the way at speeds up to 70mph.