This is what is wonderful about CZcams. Being able to watch a master work. And a master having the ability to share his skills. Thank you for teaching and inspire future masters.
Very nice work, one little hint incase someone tries it themselves, I put a sticky note under tailpiece while I work to protect finish. Then pull sticky note when done.
Fascinating I had no idea the amount of artistic design went into the bridge I have to go look at mine now. Thanks so much for sharing your talent and expertise. Subbed and hit the alarm. Cheers from Alberta Canada
Thank you for sharing. I can’t afford a luthier but my extremely cheap used instrument has an awful bridge. I have woodworking tools and can’t really make it worse so I’m having a go at improving it. I’ve watched loads of luthiers and have a good idea what I should do. Thanks again.
I recently started playing my viola after some 10 years of absence. It has a brand new bow, strings, sound post and bridge. I've rejoined my local orchestra, which is pure joy, except for one problem; When I try to play either the lowest (C) string or the next lowest (G) on its own, my bow causes the adjacent string to sound. I believe that the bridge needs a little more curvature where it supports the G and C strings. Is this a common issue? Can I do this kind of work myself? I have been a fully accredited and highly skilled piano tuner-technician for the past 50 years.
Whether a $200 violin or a $20,000 violin, they will all sound better with a properly fitted bridge, good quality strings, and post alignment. There are so many violins being produced in China I don't know how one avoids them. I have two, a Gliga from Romania, and a practice violin from Cecilio, (Chinese). The Gliga was ready to play out of the case. The Cecilio will require attention. But that is why I purchased it. It's the violin on which I learn. I've acquired D'Addario Ascente synthetic core strings, the bridge is a full 1mm too thick, and the feet look as though they just slapped the blank on the violin. Once the bridge is refined, and the strings are replaced, I'm hopeful it will matriculate from being a VSO, to something better. That you Maestro for your excellent display. I'm sure this violin will serve its player very well. It has benefited from your attention.
The $50 violins from China arrive the same way a $20,000 violin arrives from France, unfinished. Why do people expect high cost items to require setting up but low cost items to be ready right out of the box. Totally crazy.
Thank you for your knowledge I am putting a bridge on mine I had some bridges that came with the fiddle...the arch or curviture is so important...I like the tools...I need to put sound post in...
Question : In making the bridge what is your goal for the sound of the violin? When you get one in place do you then realize you took off to much or you should keep reshaping it? What is the optimal shape of a bridge? If it sound to Toney what needs to be done? Thanks
you mentioned that the whole thing is done by knife. why is this? I see there is a tool with a wheel for clamping the bridge and sanding the feet down in situ. is this a reasonable way to do it as well?
I'd like you explain the relation of the eyes, hart and down arching work with the sound of the instrument. I believe, in fact, that it is done not only with the esthetical point of view in mind…
it is called "bridge tuning" and different eye shapes and heart "lobes" and "tip" reshaping is made to enhance certain characteristics of the sound. I got explained that much by a luthier once and I began to experiment- bought a dozen of cheap blanks and took a template from my nicely fitted bridge- and re-done it with variations.You can adjust bass and highs response /transmission by opening the "eyes" and thinning the "wings" works on volume to the other (!) side: cut from the bass, increase the highs..and the other way round. But the same luthier told me that there is no exact shape to follow, just a lot of examples to work from ( he showed me some 20 bridges, all different- broken ones he replaced and kept to study) and indeed it has something to do with individual style/preference too. I have seen in his collection nice looking bridges like this shown here, but also some that were highly figured (almost rounded sections), conical openings for the eyes , a large pointed tip for the heart, some type of gothic arch between the feet , so on and so forth. He said that while there are some general rules, he used to put the bridge cut roughly to size on the instrument and play it a bit- and decide what it needs more of. And then he would carve and re-install, re test etc. He said that a well tuned bridge does not only make a nicer sound, it also makes the violin physically easier to play- as the transmission is improved you don't have to "push" so much on the bow for it to resonate. And I thought a nice violin can do with any bridge..no no no and I saw one experiment he made- a nicely customized bridge for the cheapest plywood violin he could get - and with that, even that toy sounded better... I stand convinced now and I keep experimenting. Works on electrics too.
Hey there! I noticed you referred to this as a 'violin bridge', but from what I can see, it appears to have a flatter profile, which is more characteristic of a fiddler's bridge. The classical violin bridges I've come across usually have a more pronounced curve. I recently had a luthier make a bridge for my violin with this flatter curve, similar to what you're showing. Just wanted to clarify and see if you have any insights or information about this. Thanks!
I changed my strings lately and now cant play the violin properly . the gap strings to violin is far too close and I can't play a clear note. It is more pronounced in the E string which is almost touching the neck. I don't know if the bridge has dropped markedly or if the problem is on the small black wood towards the pegs. I am baffled.. The violin was ok before though the action was lowish.
Thank you for your message. There are a number of reasons you may find the bridge is now too low. one being that the replacement strings you fitted are thicker than the previous, therefore closing the gap between strings and fingerboard. Alternatively it may be that the bridge has moved back from its correct sitting position. Can i ask are the bridge feet sitting behind the notches in the F holes or are they in line? Emma
Good day sir, I am a trained stringed instrument and guitar luthier. Unfortunately, I know less about the bowed string instruments other than what is common practice working with wooden stringed instruments in general. So, I see there is very much involved in doing this bridge setup correctly, but I do have one quick general question that may be fairly easy to answer, hopefully. When setting the height of the bridge/string above or over the playing area of the finger board, is there a rule of thumb to start with about the distance between the string and the finger board near or at the end of the 'board? I compare this to the string height on a fretted instrument as measured between the top of the frets and the bottom of the string, ie, string height. Thank you.
I'm not a professional Luthier, but from what I've studied so far, you do the adjustment based on the projection of the fingerboard, in a manner that the height from the string to the fingerboard is almost standard. That's the main reason people can't buy pre-adjusted bridges, each instrument has a different fingerboard height and angle.
Bravo for a beautifully paced video which demonstrates exactly why serous musicians go to a professional luthier for work on their instruments such as fitting a bridge, rather than attempting a DIY job. The importance of mastery of a craft through learning from experts and long experience could have no better explanation. If you have never fitted a bridge before this will convince you that there is a lot more to it than watching a couple of CZcams videos. It's your own fault if the result looks amateur and makes your violin sound even worse.
Yeah I agree about the whole doing it yourself it because of the stupid Corona virus every music store in my town is closed until they get the AOK to open again
Richard Woodall, rather a snooty attitude you have there. Yes I'm sure that all fiddle players from decades to centuries ago went to a local luthier and had their bridge done. I've been playing for over 50 years and have done every thing from replacing a bridge to replacing a fingerboard and repairing cracks in the seams. I know how to check and adjust afterlength, projection, nut replacement and making one from a blank, and so on. Can you?
Every master starts with their first piece. If others don't take the inspiration of watching a master to try and do it themselves we won't have masters to do it for us in the future.
I don't desire to view a 40 minute video about altering a bridge, but do you concur with some others that a Scottish-English-American "fiddle" typically uses a bridge with a different amount of curve to that of a classical violin?
I had no idea. This is a work of art! The bridge sets a lot of instruments apart. After I had mine fitted , it felt like the violin was made for me.
This is what is wonderful about CZcams. Being able to watch a master work. And a master having the ability to share his skills. Thank you for teaching and inspire future masters.
watching but not showing when he's doing it
You turned a stodgy bridge into something elegant and beautiful. This Fitting is fitting for such an instrument.
Great video! What an incredible skill. Thank you for sharing your masterful talents with us!
Very nice work, one little hint incase someone tries it themselves, I put a sticky note under tailpiece while I work to protect finish. Then pull sticky note when done.
Outstanding Video- you are a wonderful teacher-and a master luthier and communicator. Thank you for sharing.
Fascinating I had no idea the amount of artistic design went into the bridge I have to go look at mine now. Thanks so much for sharing your talent and expertise. Subbed and hit the alarm. Cheers from Alberta Canada
It's very wonderful and right on time. The bridge on this violin is too flat and makes single string play difficult. Thank you.
Your skills are amazing!
Awesome Mate, I have to do all this from scratch, so this will be an immense help. Cheers and God bless
Great video. Many thanks for sharing your skills and experience.
I salute your skill and expertise, love from India.
Very helpful video. Well done!
Thank you for sharing. I can’t afford a luthier but my extremely cheap used instrument has an awful bridge. I have woodworking tools and can’t really make it worse so I’m having a go at improving it. I’ve watched loads of luthiers and have a good idea what I should do. Thanks again.
Well done and helpful video. Thank you!
Great demo, thank you!
Amazing work!
I wish I knew you in person, you seem like a really awesome artiste and a genuinely sweet guy 🙂
" Entirely with a knife" i dont know how many appreciate this with their sander etc
03:00
is terrifying watching you do all that without a neck rest.. thank you though, i learned a lot.
Thank you for making this informative video.
Very good video Sir. Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for the Vellum tip!!
Great information, thank you!
Do you fine tune the bridge with the mic or sensor and FFT analyzing app?
I recently started playing my viola after some 10 years of absence. It has a brand new bow, strings, sound post and bridge. I've rejoined my local orchestra, which is pure joy, except for one problem; When I try to play either the lowest (C) string or the next lowest (G) on its own, my bow causes the adjacent string to sound. I believe that the bridge needs a little more curvature where it supports the G and C strings. Is this a common issue? Can I do this kind of work myself? I have been a fully accredited and highly skilled piano tuner-technician for the past 50 years.
Whether a $200 violin or a $20,000 violin, they will all sound better with a properly fitted bridge, good quality strings, and post alignment. There are so many violins being produced in China I don't know how one avoids them. I have two, a Gliga from Romania, and a practice violin from Cecilio, (Chinese). The Gliga was ready to play out of the case. The Cecilio will require attention. But that is why I purchased it. It's the violin on which I learn. I've acquired D'Addario Ascente synthetic core strings, the bridge is a full 1mm too thick, and the feet look as though they just slapped the blank on the violin. Once the bridge is refined, and the strings are replaced, I'm hopeful it will matriculate from being a VSO, to something better. That you Maestro for your excellent display. I'm sure this violin will serve its player very well. It has benefited from your attention.
The $50 violins from China arrive the same way a $20,000 violin arrives from France, unfinished. Why do people expect high cost items to require setting up but low cost items to be ready right out of the box. Totally crazy.
Wow excelente trabajo dignos de un verdadero artesano, todo el trabajo de rebaje de los pis, corazón y orejas tienen algún efecto final en el sonido?
That was excellent....Thank you....
Thank you for your knowledge I am putting a bridge on mine I had some bridges that came with the fiddle...the arch or curviture is so important...I like the tools...I need to put sound post in...
Question : In making the bridge what is your goal for the sound of the violin? When you get one in place do you then realize you took off to much or you should keep reshaping it? What is the optimal shape of a bridge? If it sound to Toney what needs to be done? Thanks
you mentioned that the whole thing is done by knife. why is this? I see there is a tool with a wheel for clamping the bridge and sanding the feet down in situ. is this a reasonable way to do it as well?
I wish you could hv done my violin!!
My bridge is messed up. Might do a new one myself using your video
Nice work .Which one bridge is the best to buy please. Thank you
I enjoyed this tutorial. However, you should consider an overhead camera. Could not make out any of the actual work involved in fitting the bridge.
is that 3 1/4 and 5 1/4 to the bottom of the string or centre of string? Thank you.
very informative!
Thanks a lot!!!
I'd like you explain the relation of the eyes, hart and down arching work with the sound of the instrument. I believe, in fact, that it is done not only with the esthetical point of view in mind…
it is called "bridge tuning" and different eye shapes and heart "lobes" and "tip" reshaping is made to enhance certain characteristics of the sound. I got explained that much by a luthier once and I began to experiment- bought a dozen of cheap blanks and took a template from my nicely fitted bridge- and re-done it with variations.You can adjust bass and highs response /transmission by opening the "eyes" and thinning the "wings" works on volume to the other (!) side: cut from the bass, increase the highs..and the other way round. But the same luthier told me that there is no exact shape to follow, just a lot of examples to work from ( he showed me some 20 bridges, all different- broken ones he replaced and kept to study) and indeed it has something to do with individual style/preference too. I have seen in his collection nice looking bridges like this shown here, but also some that were highly figured (almost rounded sections), conical openings for the eyes , a large pointed tip for the heart, some type of gothic arch between the feet , so on and so forth. He said that while there are some general rules, he used to put the bridge cut roughly to size on the instrument and play it a bit- and decide what it needs more of. And then he would carve and re-install, re test etc. He said that a well tuned bridge does not only make a nicer sound, it also makes the violin physically easier to play- as the transmission is improved you don't have to "push" so much on the bow for it to resonate. And I thought a nice violin can do with any bridge..no no no and I saw one experiment he made- a nicely customized bridge for the cheapest plywood violin he could get - and with that, even that toy sounded better... I stand convinced now and I keep experimenting. Works on electrics too.
how much do you charge
thank you so much
What brand of knives are you using, what knife company made your knives?
Papano o set ang bagong violin
Hey there! I noticed you referred to this as a 'violin bridge', but from what I can see, it appears to have a flatter profile, which is more characteristic of a fiddler's bridge. The classical violin bridges I've come across usually have a more pronounced curve. I recently had a luthier make a bridge for my violin with this flatter curve, similar to what you're showing. Just wanted to clarify and see if you have any insights or information about this. Thanks!
Hi, I do not really understand why and put what under the E string on Bridge. thanks
Thanks: pleSe keep posted: learning slowly: bye
I changed my strings lately and now cant play the violin properly . the gap strings to violin is far too close and I can't play a clear note. It is more pronounced in the E string which is almost touching the neck. I don't know if the bridge has dropped markedly or if the problem is on the small black wood towards the pegs. I am baffled.. The violin was ok before though the action was lowish.
Thank you for your message. There are a number of reasons you may find the bridge is now too low. one being that the replacement strings you fitted are thicker than the previous, therefore closing the gap between strings and fingerboard. Alternatively it may be that the bridge has moved back from its correct sitting position. Can i ask are the bridge feet sitting behind the notches in the F holes or are they in line? Emma
What are the string clearances? You mentioned the G is 5.25 and E is 3.25. What about A and D? Thanks!
Using the template plate he has the height of a and d will be determined by the g and e. I have seen the templates for sale.
Good day sir,
I am a trained stringed instrument and guitar luthier. Unfortunately, I know less about the bowed string instruments other than what is common practice working with wooden stringed instruments in general.
So, I see there is very much involved in doing this bridge setup correctly, but I do have one quick general question that may be fairly easy to answer, hopefully. When setting the height of the bridge/string above or over the playing area of the finger board, is there a rule of thumb to start with about the distance between the string and the finger board near or at the end of the 'board? I compare this to the string height on a fretted instrument as measured between the top of the frets and the bottom of the string, ie, string height. Thank you.
I'm not a professional Luthier, but from what I've studied so far, you do the adjustment based on the projection of the fingerboard, in a manner that the height from the string to the fingerboard is almost standard. That's the main reason people can't buy pre-adjusted bridges, each instrument has a different fingerboard height and angle.
General measurement, measured at the very end of the fingerboard near the bridge: bottom of G string 5.5 mm above fiberboard, e string 3.5mm
Use a cabinet scraper, far easier and less crass then sandpaper
Love videoz
Why did the violin need a new bridge?
My fingers fall in-between strings on 5th double stops. Can Bridge adjust spaces?
Yes you can set the string spacing to a more suitable one if needed. A luthier should be happy to make the bridge customised to your best fit.
@@thestringzone3042 thank you I'm getting my bridge changed out next week I'll ask about this
Super 💓
I thought you were going to stab your left hand with the knife at 13:31. Thanks this was helpful...I think we will get a Luthier instead of DIY.
I wonder what kind of knife was he using to cut part of the bridge?
It looks like a single bevel carving knife, similar to the Japanese kiridashi.
High quality steel made in Germany. Available still, enquire with us if you'd like one.
Have you ever set up a bridge for an electric violin, if so do you have the measurements the same as an acoustic violin .
Bravo for a beautifully paced video which demonstrates exactly why serous musicians go to a professional luthier for work on their instruments such as fitting a bridge, rather than attempting a DIY job. The importance of mastery of a craft through learning from experts and long experience could have no better explanation. If you have never fitted a bridge before this will convince you that there is a lot more to it than watching a couple of CZcams videos. It's your own fault if the result looks amateur and makes your violin sound even worse.
While I see where you're coming from, some of us don't have a luthier close to us and have no choice but to do it ourselves
Yeah I agree about the whole doing it yourself it because of the stupid Corona virus every music store in my town is closed until they get the AOK to open again
Richard Woodall, rather a snooty attitude you have there. Yes I'm sure that all fiddle players from decades to centuries ago went to a local luthier and had their bridge done. I've been playing for over 50 years and have done every thing from replacing a bridge to replacing a fingerboard and repairing cracks in the seams.
I know how to check and adjust afterlength, projection, nut replacement and making one from a blank, and so on.
Can you?
@@moirapledger9153 Well said, Sir.
Every master starts with their first piece. If others don't take the inspiration of watching a master to try and do it themselves we won't have masters to do it for us in the future.
#90_July_10_2024_IsItJustMe_AfterTheseLuthierConstructionVideos_FindMyselfMoreConscienceAndCarefull_AtMyTasksAlso_So_COOL🧐👀😎
Since you had my bridge changed my violin doesn't sound
Best concept but poor demonstration and videocoverage
Kuelindacaja
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Megustariprovartodotipodemaderasimilarparavercualreasionamejoralasonoridad
Estariavuenokueagasuoldeparalaprosimaveskuetokuesesapiesa
Close captions please.
I'am Brazilian, my english is very bad!
I don't desire to view a 40 minute video about altering a bridge, but do you concur with some others that a Scottish-English-American "fiddle" typically uses a bridge with a different amount of curve to that of a classical violin?
A lot of fiddle players will have a flatter bridge to enable easier double stops.
Too lengthy video not necessary 😢
You could improve your videos if you bought a lapel mic. The sound is poor.
You sound like Draco Malfoy.
It does the job :) he is clear!
Oh lord.
🙄