If anyone in the audience wants practice smoothing out foil, try smoothing out a foil candy-wrapper. There’s a limit to the smoothing you can do: wrinkling the foil stretches it in small places, and flattening it from there just compresses those wrinkles.
I actually do this a lot when I'm eating chocolates wrapped in foil. Straightening it out with the edge of a table like you might with a dollar bill does a terrible job. Using a ruler or something else with a straight, flat edge does really good, but it will curl the foil because you are stretching the material thin on one side.
@@Minty_Meeo I’d had a period where I’d use the foil from candy to make ‘foil cranes’ - origami with foil. It’s possible, and for at least a crane, not difficult, but it’s different from using paper. Folding paper makes it weaker. Folding foil has the reverse effect, and you can’t really reverse folds in foil like you can in paper.
I do this every time I have something wrapped in foil, like kinder eggs my personal techneque is putting the foil flat on my glass desk, and just rubbing it with my phone screen crunching it back up is incredibly satisfying due to how thin the foil on them kinds of this is much thinner than regular kitchen foil and thats even thinner than the kind of foil burgers come in
I would have tried a heat method on metal foil type labels like these. I come across them often in my work repairing computers and especially game console controllers as warranty stickers with serial numbers. Best way I found to lift them was by applying heat using a hot air soldering/rework station. The heat softens the adhesive enough to separate the foil label from the surface without much creasing and can be made to look as if they have never been removed.
I'd love to see you approach price stickers on books like this. It seems to be really hard to find something that removes the sticker cleanly yet doesn't damage the cover/pages.
Yes, the older the adhesive and the longer it had been cooked there, it will go one of 2 ways. Either fall off with almost no prompting, or take the paint underneath with. most of the time you want to mix the solvents, so they react with the different layers of the adhesive, so one softens it and the other releases it. Had a good amount of success with spray on limonene oil, as it does work on a lot of adhesives, and then mix it up with alcohol based hand sanitiser, as everybody can carry a bottle of hand sanitiser around in a pocket with nobody ever batting an eyelid, and you just need 2 bottles, one actual sanitiser, and the other the blend. Bonus is they often also add gelling agents so it will stick to the side well, and not drip.
Limonene oil is an organic terpene. Ethyl/denatured/isopropyl alcohol is a solvent for said terpene, not a reactant. And, because vandalism and sticker goo, we use a product called De-Mark-It which is limonene mixed with light aromatic hydrocarbons and propelled with isopropane, and repeated and prolonged exposure is known to states other than California to cause cancer. But, it's stable. My only concern would be attacking paint or printing on some of the really old labels.
@@clemdelaclem Mixing simple organic solvents of the kind being discussed here and used in the video is fine. What's actually dangerous is mixing reactive cleaning products, which are generally water based.
I'm fairly sure he used *forced* entry, not surreptitious entry, given the video on the channel showing him opening a cabinet like that. You'll note at the bottom it states no requirement for forced entry.
Instead of pulling up, try pulling left at around a 30-45 degree angle, to avoid as much bending damage to the foil as possible. Some glues also respond better to being pulled at different angles, as it forces release at different speeds, allowing hardier ones to release slower.😉👍 Edit: OK, I feel slightly called out as a Dane living in Norway...😅😂 VAT on imports, yeah...
Heat, too. Adhesives typically soften long before there's any effect on the label/ink. Can also apply a rigid support structure using an adhesive - e.g. CA glue with removal by acetone solvent if the rest of the label is relatively inert to the acetone.
AvE built a tool a few years back to remove tamper stickers. I believe it was just a Teflon knife sorta. I wonder if the combination of the two would life the tamper proof foil stickers in one motion.
AvE didn't use it on these type of pure foil stickers but did on a plastic-backed type. He also applied heat with a bit of silicone oil rather than using a solvent. Regardless, that's essentially what the plastic razor blade is. May not be tephlon, but the mechanics are the same. The issue though is the pressure needed to lift the foil may also cause a crease or kink in the foil if the adhesive isn't loose enough. Already mentioned in another comment, but a mandrel you roll and load the sticker onto would be a great help here.
a heat gun (some sort of applied heat) might have been an ideal initial prep prior to chemicals. since it is nonporous in this case, there is nowhere the expanding adhesive can sink into.
It's a ferrous material so you can use induction heater coils in your gloves; get it warmed up nice and easy like and then use tiny bit of whatever solvent is working to float it off once the difference in material expansion between the steel wall and foil sticker cause some adhesion/tension fluctuations (might even get a bubble under if the adhesive is able to still gas off at all). The deformation forces should help wick/capillary action open up a little less harshly/more gently than a hand tool. Since you're using inductive instead of resistive principles, your fingers will only absorb heat from reflected radiation and not directly from the heating elements themselves. You could pull your hand away and your glove would be cool (or rapidly do so) if the design worked. If the sticker is floating, theoretically you could use a very smooth piece of material to stick on it and retrieve it completely flat by, again, capillary surface tension action. Probably wouldn't even need anything on it, just make sure it's dry/clean so the foil wants to stick to it instead of the puddle it's sitting in. Maybe some type of release agent so it doesn't stick to the "sticker paddle" or even make it of self-lubing plastic (Igus corporation makes 3D printer filament from their materials so you could just print your own).
Vaping seems to be a pretty good excuse to carry around extremely power dense batteries (I wonder if you could build a zvs induction heater in a vape form factor) and being able to heat things up could be useful. Heck, just using a couple of sharp probes to make contact with the metal and driving it like a vape coil might work for heating.
Heat the metal and soften the adhesive in combination with the solvent, I use a hot air gun for removing stickers from vehicles without damaging either the sticker or the paintwork that it is stuck to.
That GSA label looks easy to forge. If I were trying to steal secrets and not leave evidence, I'd prob have a new label ready to replace to old label. That Mosler Safe label, with it's stamped numbers would be much harder (though not impossible) to forge.
@@DeviantOllam Did anyone get the reference to the riff you played when you said "Don't light a match"? That's a great song on a good safety video. Great work with this video!👍
Have you tried using Teflon bone folders, spatulas, delaminators, or lifters? They are special tools bookbinders and conservationists use for manipulating very delicate papers Especially when they stick to each other
love it, i'd really like to see a video of you reapplying those labels or at least repurposing them as cool laptop stickers, see how they can be restored to flat Keep up the good work, love what you do, Best wishes from Ireland
My go-to is electronic contact cleaner, it's a mix of naphtha, hexane, and heptane that does a very good job of loosening adhesives. Pair that up with a plastic scraper and some Super 77 to stick it back on, and you can do work on just about anything without voiding any warranties. Just be warned, it'll get inside the backlighting for anything with an LCD cause it also loosens the glue on EVERYTHING that uses solvent adhesives, learned that one the hard way after ruining the screen on my old Galaxy S4 Active... As a side note, if you've got any hobby shops nearby that still have Radio Shack branded electronics repair stuff, you can get the equivalent of CRC QD cleaner but in a pocket-sized can for covert usage. Also works even better than air duster for tripping the good old Honeywell infrared RTE sensors, it's definitely gotten me into work after somebody accidentally kicked the doorstop a few times.
If you ever want to read the contents of a sealed envelope, Naptha (or zippo lighter fluid, as I knew it as, as I spilt it over some papers on my desk) works a treat. Then it evaporates and everything appears to return to normal.
I'll see if I can get you some of the seals from my work. They're foil strips in transparent plastic, and the plastic turns bright red when exposed to the usual solvents. That would need a different attack.
@@frogz It's basically a liposome thing, micro-encapsulated red dye that will dissolve if you try to use the usual solvents on it. MEK will turn it red, I've tried.
A few years ago after moving from a state that had inspection / emissions stickers on the windshield of my car to a state that didn’t bother with those, I tried several solvents to remove the sticker combined with a scraper Isopropyl: nope Acetone: nope Naphtha / lighter fluid: nope Goo gone: nope I eventually went and bought a can of “fuel” from Home Depot - denatured ethanol. The last easily found solvent. Lifted right up where the others didn’t work.
Seems we need a custom tool, a mandrel with a lateral clamp able to hold an edge as you smoothly roll the label off the surface and onto the drum, adding solvent as needed
Years ago before IFTA truckers had Bingo plate for fuel tax stamps. The stickers were foil backed. We would remove them by flaming the back of the licence plate then when the glue warmed up you could lift it off with your knife. And reapply on another plate.
Untested idea: have some kind of supportive plate to put on the front of these labels. To avoid crumbling it. At least in more than one direction. If you find the right material it could for example curl up in exactly one direction and only to a controlled radius. Perhaps you also use a no residue adhesive or some tecky nano coating. Also gives you a good handle.
Id like to see DeviantOllam try to open up one of those professionall graded baseball/pokemon cards, or professionally graded coins. If he could figure out how to open those tamper proof slabs, an entire industry would be F'd
So...is the sort of label that would be included on a safe required for storing classified documents? Asking for a friend in Florida. (he's not actually my friend)
I wonder if something like autobody spreader (made from spring steel) set would be good for lifting larger seals? Multiple sizes, cheap(ish), flexible and designed not to scratch stuff.
May I suggest a panel beater trick dab a little thinners on label and ignite and blow out(repeat as needed as not to burn label) to warm glue and label slips off clean, soak paper labels tho.
drawing from my considerable experience in removing those annoying LP disk (vinyl) labels, may i suggest another tool? A long haired soft painters brush. Try applying the solvent right on the junction with a slicing movement, repeatedly. Also, i do not think you are waiting enough with naptha. Let it work some more time. Regards, the Greekman
Speaking as a paramedic, please adjust the way you resheath your needles so your fingers aren't in the firing line if it slips or if the sheath breaks :)
You have done an incredible job! This has helped me tremendously. Can you provide the links for the “bag” part of your kit, the wooden spatulas, and the vials? Perhaps the labels would be nice too! Thanks.
Here in sweden the label have absolutely zero effect on its classification. Instead classification is maintained through computer records, so if a safe is questionable, its possible to look it up through computer and see service record, photos, etc. But thats where US and sweden differs most. In US you need to have "papers" on everything. In sweden most things can be looked up through computer, so even if you have no papers or records, theres almost always a record in some computer somewhere. Thats why you don't need a tax decal on vehicles in sweden, because they just run the plate number and they will instantly see tax status, insurance status, inspection report, driver's license status, title status, if its stolen or not, all reports made on vehicle since it was manufactured (so if previous owner had a break-in with smashed window on the vehicle, that police report will come up) etc. Same with safes for weapon storage and classified document storage. Everything is registred in computer, if for example a weapon in sweden is seized from a criminal, the safe's number will be written in computer, and it can potentially lead to problems for the new safe owner. Or if safe has once been stolen etc. Everything is written down. HOWEVER, safes in sweden for classified documents DO have labels, but they have no legal meaning. The labels are only as a helpful hint to those that are using the safe, so they know which safe can be used for which documents. Its basically a label consisting of 4 boxes, one box for each document type (non-public, classified, secret, top secret) and the boxes will have indications on which document types are permitted in that storage container. Even if a safe is approved for lets say "Secret", it may still bear a label saying its prohibited to store "Secret" in that safe, but thats because the safe's location may make it unsuitable, for example sometimes a location must stay under alarm condition for any safes to be loaded with documents higher than a specific document level. So its not just the container itself that needs to be approved for its content, the safe's location may have dependence too. In some cases, it might be prohibited alltogether, just because, for example, people from the public have access to that location, and that means, if a officer picks up a document from the safe, a member of the public may see the document with its own eyes, compromising its secrecy. Thus the safe may not be used for such documents due to its location, even tough the safe itself would hold up. Its not like, prohibited to store documents in a safe with missing classifiation label, BUT, if you do, you are yourself responsible for that the safe bears the valid classification AND the location in question is approved too, which could mean criminal liability IF you store the documents in a safe that doesn't meet the classification requirement. However, if a safe is missing its label, and you know the safe is approved, you can usually look at other containers in the same room, in most cases all containers in a room bears a specific minimum level, with a few having a higher classification, so if you have a safe that have its label fallen off, you can look at other safes, you might see 3 safes approved for "Classified" and one safe approved for "Secret". Then you can know the label-missing-safe is atleast approved for "Classified". (Theres NEVER such as 3 levels in the same room, its always 1 or 2 levels in a single room).
@deviantollam - Ethanol is almost always better than iso in my experience, and is nearly as safe / non-marking as iso for most paints / coatins. Also super useful on plastic substrates, obv.
I noticed that you went in with the scraper directly after applying the solvent. I wonder if you could just squirt some one, wait a bit, squirt again and _then_ go in with the scraper.
If you kept soft pressure on the front of the label that may help stop those tiny folds every time you pull again. Good luck everyone N ThankQ for running it.TkEZ>UK
i think a hand-held baby heat gun might be able to help with something like this, just to heat the label up enough, squirt some solvent over once it's warm and you'd be able to lift it off with minimal creasing. you'd need a few minutes alone with the equipment though, but if you've picked or socially engineered your way into a control room or switch room, you might be the only person in there for hours. could do all sorts of mischief
yeah the Rolling might help with Metal Stickers - if you're going to be putting it back on a flat Surface anyways, then you could probably make it look way better if you really smashed it on there with something nice and Round so that it helps hide those Wrinkles. it still would probably fail a full on examination, but you should be able to get it to look good enough that they probably wouldn't do the examination.
Hello from Virginia 👍 watching. If you take your big lighter hold it at the back of it warm it up just a little bit you'll peel them right off no damage
The Shake Hands With Danger lick threw me off balance. If you recognize it, and you’re not a listener of Well There’s Your Problem, an engineering disaster podcast with slides, I think you could be.
interesting stuff. i like seeing hearing your thoughts while finding 'the way in'. have you ever tried removing egg shell stickers used mainly for tagging?
It scares the crap out of me to see you working with that needle and solvents. Whenever I do anything with a nice pointy awl or other pick, I nearly always end up stabbing myself. I think about it so hard to try not to that I do it anyway! And I have a prison tat on my index finger from jamming a sharp pen into the cap, and missing, more than once. (injected straight into my finger) I just can't imagine how much an accidental jab with isopropyl or acetone might go!! I see how convenient it is, but don't ever let me have that!
Is there any possible indicator on what solvent to use or do you just go from least to most potentially damaging? Also what are your plastic scrapers made of?
I had a book as a kid which suggested using carbon tetrachloride(!) for a similar application; opening an envelop covertly I'm not sure you can even get carbon tetrachloride anywhere these days
I'm sorry, you say you "whacked off" a part of a GSA container? Sorry. As a federal employee for almost a quarter century, this is amusing on two levels. 🤣 Safes, security containers and vaults are now something that falls inside my new job description but due to the fact people have been closing them without knowing the combination a lot lately, and getting them back open can take hours to multiple days (in a way that doesn't destroy the safe or its contents) I'm glad I haven't been through that particular training just yet.
just an idea to do it perfectly dont peel the sticker at all, just keep applying heptain for a while so it slowly seaps thru all the glue then just slide the sticker around while continueing to apply it eventualy its going to get to a point where almost all the glue is off it and it will just fall off or in this example, just slide it off the edge of the metal
If anyone in the audience wants practice smoothing out foil, try smoothing out a foil candy-wrapper. There’s a limit to the smoothing you can do: wrinkling the foil stretches it in small places, and flattening it from there just compresses those wrinkles.
I actually do this a lot when I'm eating chocolates wrapped in foil. Straightening it out with the edge of a table like you might with a dollar bill does a terrible job. Using a ruler or something else with a straight, flat edge does really good, but it will curl the foil because you are stretching the material thin on one side.
@@Minty_Meeo I’d had a period where I’d use the foil from candy to make ‘foil cranes’ - origami with foil. It’s possible, and for at least a crane, not difficult, but it’s different from using paper. Folding paper makes it weaker. Folding foil has the reverse effect, and you can’t really reverse folds in foil like you can in paper.
I wonder if a hot clothes iron would be effective in smoothing it out.
I do this every time I have something wrapped in foil, like kinder eggs
my personal techneque is putting the foil flat on my glass desk, and just rubbing it with my phone screen
crunching it back up is incredibly satisfying due to how thin the foil on them kinds of this is
much thinner than regular kitchen foil and thats even thinner than the kind of foil burgers come in
Not going to lie, "the shake hands with danger" sting got me
2:00 Shake hands with danger :D
That "shake hands with danger" riff was great. Nice videos.
I would have tried a heat method on metal foil type labels like these. I come across them often in my work repairing computers and especially game console controllers as warranty stickers with serial numbers. Best way I found to lift them was by applying heat using a hot air soldering/rework station. The heat softens the adhesive enough to separate the foil label from the surface without much creasing and can be made to look as if they have never been removed.
I've had the same sort of luck with removing the same sort of labels from laptops I refurbish at work.
Yup, when its on metal heat is your friend
Worddddd a heat gun will work wonders especially hitting them from THE OTHER SIDE, HEATING THE METAL UNDERNEATH NOT THE TOP AND THE LABEL
I'd love to see you approach price stickers on books like this. It seems to be really hard to find something that removes the sticker cleanly yet doesn't damage the cover/pages.
Zippo lighter fluid works for me
If it's shiny hardcover, oil works well after peeling off what you can
Lighter fluid
This is when you need a good chunk of Teflon that you can grind down into the proper shape
Yes, the older the adhesive and the longer it had been cooked there, it will go one of 2 ways. Either fall off with almost no prompting, or take the paint underneath with. most of the time you want to mix the solvents, so they react with the different layers of the adhesive, so one softens it and the other releases it. Had a good amount of success with spray on limonene oil, as it does work on a lot of adhesives, and then mix it up with alcohol based hand sanitiser, as everybody can carry a bottle of hand sanitiser around in a pocket with nobody ever batting an eyelid, and you just need 2 bottles, one actual sanitiser, and the other the blend. Bonus is they often also add gelling agents so it will stick to the side well, and not drip.
mixing solvents is not a good idea unless you know your chemistry
@@clemdelaclem as you obviously don't.
Limonene oil is an organic terpene. Ethyl/denatured/isopropyl alcohol is a solvent for said terpene, not a reactant. And, because vandalism and sticker goo, we use a product called De-Mark-It which is limonene mixed with light aromatic hydrocarbons and propelled with isopropane, and repeated and prolonged exposure is known to states other than California to cause cancer. But, it's stable. My only concern would be attacking paint or printing on some of the really old labels.
@@clemdelaclem My above comment was largely in response to yours. He's not talking about mixing Comet and Windex.
@@clemdelaclem Mixing simple organic solvents of the kind being discussed here and used in the video is fine. What's actually dangerous is mixing reactive cleaning products, which are generally water based.
Got to ask, did it take you 30 Man-Minutes to gain Entry?
Please, we need answers
Surreptitious...
I'm fairly sure he used *forced* entry, not surreptitious entry, given the video on the channel showing him opening a cabinet like that. You'll note at the bottom it states no requirement for forced entry.
Instead of pulling up, try pulling left at around a 30-45 degree angle, to avoid as much bending damage to the foil as possible. Some glues also respond better to being pulled at different angles, as it forces release at different speeds, allowing hardier ones to release slower.😉👍
Edit:
OK, I feel slightly called out as a Dane living in Norway...😅😂 VAT on imports, yeah...
Heat, too. Adhesives typically soften long before there's any effect on the label/ink. Can also apply a rigid support structure using an adhesive - e.g. CA glue with removal by acetone solvent if the rest of the label is relatively inert to the acetone.
I loved the guitar riff from shake hands with danger.
Love a cheeky little Shake Hands With Danger riff thrown in **chef's kiss** 😙👌
AvE built a tool a few years back to remove tamper stickers. I believe it was just a Teflon knife sorta. I wonder if the combination of the two would life the tamper proof foil stickers in one motion.
czcams.com/video/wfOZKj8ZGqo/video.html This one?
Yet another cousin from the internet's favorite canadian Drunken Uncle
Depends on glue types, but they do work well
AvE didn't use it on these type of pure foil stickers but did on a plastic-backed type. He also applied heat with a bit of silicone oil rather than using a solvent. Regardless, that's essentially what the plastic razor blade is. May not be tephlon, but the mechanics are the same. The issue though is the pressure needed to lift the foil may also cause a crease or kink in the foil if the adhesive isn't loose enough. Already mentioned in another comment, but a mandrel you roll and load the sticker onto would be a great help here.
Could just heat them and use a Teflon knife
It was the “shake hands with danger” for me…..
the safty is the danger soundeffect is pure gold
a heat gun (some sort of applied heat) might have been an ideal initial prep prior to chemicals. since it is nonporous in this case, there is nowhere the expanding adhesive can sink into.
What I was thinking- or an iron with an adjustable temp.
Just don't turn the heat gun on after you've applied solvents, it could ignite the vapors
Denmark here. Only thing I've ever won was cleaning and polishing stuff for motorcycles.. I ride Rat bikes...
I appreciate your persistent reminder to be smart enough to keep safe. Whatever that takes, do it.
It's a ferrous material so you can use induction heater coils in your gloves; get it warmed up nice and easy like and then use tiny bit of whatever solvent is working to float it off once the difference in material expansion between the steel wall and foil sticker cause some adhesion/tension fluctuations (might even get a bubble under if the adhesive is able to still gas off at all). The deformation forces should help wick/capillary action open up a little less harshly/more gently than a hand tool.
Since you're using inductive instead of resistive principles, your fingers will only absorb heat from reflected radiation and not directly from the heating elements themselves.
You could pull your hand away and your glove would be cool (or rapidly do so) if the design worked. If the sticker is floating, theoretically you could use a very smooth piece of material to stick on it and retrieve it completely flat by, again, capillary surface tension action. Probably wouldn't even need anything on it, just make sure it's dry/clean so the foil wants to stick to it instead of the puddle it's sitting in. Maybe some type of release agent so it doesn't stick to the "sticker paddle" or even make it of self-lubing plastic (Igus corporation makes 3D printer filament from their materials so you could just print your own).
Haha. I did not expect that guitar riff from Shake Hands With Danger.
I nearly died when I heard the shake hands with danger chord
Vaping seems to be a pretty good excuse to carry around extremely power dense batteries (I wonder if you could build a zvs induction heater in a vape form factor) and being able to heat things up could be useful. Heck, just using a couple of sharp probes to make contact with the metal and driving it like a vape coil might work for heating.
I don't know why, but this has quickly become my favourite "series" on CZcams
Love the shake hands with danger reference
I don't have the slightest clue what I'm watching but it's very satisfying
I heard that "shake hands with danger" sting and almost thought I was watching a Well There's Your Problem Podcast episode!
I'm not really into this tampering stuff but always love to hear you talk!
Heat the metal and soften the adhesive in combination with the solvent, I use a hot air gun for removing stickers from vehicles without damaging either the sticker or the paintwork that it is stuck to.
That GSA label looks easy to forge. If I were trying to steal secrets and not leave evidence, I'd prob have a new label ready to replace to old label.
That Mosler Safe label, with it's stamped numbers would be much harder (though not impossible) to forge.
Very good point 👍
@@DeviantOllam Did anyone get the reference to the riff you played when you said "Don't light a match"? That's a great song on a good safety video. Great work with this video!👍
Love the This old Tony / AvE hands only view! Lol!
Have you tried using Teflon bone folders, spatulas, delaminators, or lifters?
They are special tools bookbinders and conservationists use for manipulating very delicate papers
Especially when they stick to each other
"Dont light a match while doing this" Hah! Nice reference!
Now they call me, Three Finger Joe
its good to see you active again . you stay safe as well .
my desk was right next to a mosler lock for years. i heard "spin FASTER" and "what does lightning bolt mean???" so many times lol
This is like watching Baumgartner Restoration, but if I wanted to steal classified documents.
love it, i'd really like to see a video of you reapplying those labels or at least repurposing them as cool laptop stickers, see how they can be restored to flat
Keep up the good work, love what you do, Best wishes from Ireland
My go-to is electronic contact cleaner, it's a mix of naphtha, hexane, and heptane that does a very good job of loosening adhesives. Pair that up with a plastic scraper and some Super 77 to stick it back on, and you can do work on just about anything without voiding any warranties. Just be warned, it'll get inside the backlighting for anything with an LCD cause it also loosens the glue on EVERYTHING that uses solvent adhesives, learned that one the hard way after ruining the screen on my old Galaxy S4 Active... As a side note, if you've got any hobby shops nearby that still have Radio Shack branded electronics repair stuff, you can get the equivalent of CRC QD cleaner but in a pocket-sized can for covert usage. Also works even better than air duster for tripping the good old Honeywell infrared RTE sensors, it's definitely gotten me into work after somebody accidentally kicked the doorstop a few times.
If you ever want to read the contents of a sealed envelope, Naptha (or zippo lighter fluid, as I knew it as, as I spilt it over some papers on my desk) works a treat.
Then it evaporates and everything appears to return to normal.
I'll see if I can get you some of the seals from my work. They're foil strips in transparent plastic, and the plastic turns bright red when exposed to the usual solvents. That would need a different attack.
How about using heat to affect the adhesive?
what about super dry methyl ethyl ketone?
@@frogz It's basically a liposome thing, micro-encapsulated red dye that will dissolve if you try to use the usual solvents on it. MEK will turn it red, I've tried.
Warm sand compress or heating pad maybe? What about supercritical co2 butane or propane?
A few years ago after moving from a state that had inspection / emissions stickers on the windshield of my car to a state that didn’t bother with those, I tried several solvents to remove the sticker combined with a scraper
Isopropyl: nope
Acetone: nope
Naphtha / lighter fluid: nope
Goo gone: nope
I eventually went and bought a can of “fuel” from Home Depot - denatured ethanol. The last easily found solvent. Lifted right up where the others didn’t work.
Seems we need a custom tool, a mandrel with a lateral clamp able to hold an edge as you smoothly roll the label off the surface and onto the drum, adding solvent as needed
Years ago before IFTA truckers had Bingo plate for fuel tax stamps. The stickers were foil backed. We would remove them by flaming the back of the licence plate then when the glue warmed up you could lift it off with your knife. And reapply on another plate.
I really appreciated the musical sting.
Untested idea: have some kind of supportive plate to put on the front of these labels. To avoid crumbling it. At least in more than one direction. If you find the right material it could for example curl up in exactly one direction and only to a controlled radius. Perhaps you also use a no residue adhesive or some tecky nano coating. Also gives you a good handle.
Id like to see DeviantOllam try to open up one of those professionall graded baseball/pokemon cards, or professionally graded coins. If he could figure out how to open those tamper proof slabs, an entire industry would be F'd
Speedball Brayers are great rollers for tape and adhesive sheet.
I like those man-time ratings
Watching this from Vegas after the SANS conference. Thank you for showing me the thermostat hack! I shared that with a few others here
So...is the sort of label that would be included on a safe required for storing classified documents?
Asking for a friend in Florida.
(he's not actually my friend)
Dev, how about showing adhesives for reapplying the labels after you've removed them?
Always interesting information Deviant thank you
I wonder if something like autobody spreader (made from spring steel) set would be good for lifting larger seals? Multiple sizes, cheap(ish), flexible and designed not to scratch stuff.
You should try an "Ownerstick," a very thin wedge of PTFE. A lot of folks have had luck with those esp on tamper seals for consoles.
May I suggest a panel beater trick dab a little thinners on label and ignite and blow out(repeat as needed as not to burn label) to warm glue and label slips off clean, soak paper labels tho.
I'll bet you could get even better results with carefully preheating the area before applying the heptane
What is a "radiological attack" in the context of the label?
Also, "I'm an idiot and so can you!" is an awesome saying lmao.
drawing from my considerable experience in removing those annoying LP disk (vinyl) labels, may i suggest another tool? A long haired soft painters brush. Try applying the solvent right on the junction with a slicing movement, repeatedly.
Also, i do not think you are waiting enough with naptha. Let it work some more time.
Regards, the Greekman
I wonder if something like compressed air could push on it without any risk of physical damage.
Speaking as a paramedic, please adjust the way you resheath your needles so your fingers aren't in the firing line if it slips or if the sheath breaks :)
Would it be possible to close this attack vector if the metal had a paint/coating that was reactive to these solvents?
Not me losing my entire shit hearing the Shake Hands With Danger riff
You have done an incredible job! This has helped me tremendously. Can you provide the links for the “bag” part of your kit, the wooden spatulas, and the vials? Perhaps the labels would be nice too! Thanks.
Could you use heat on the opposite side to soften the adhesive?
2:03 shake hands with danger! Hahaha
Thanks for the video 🔍
The last time I saw that many needles, I was with Don jr.
9:05 I know that feeling. And I been waiting for a certain Rubber Ducky to ship from the state's.
Here in sweden the label have absolutely zero effect on its classification. Instead classification is maintained through computer records, so if a safe is questionable, its possible to look it up through computer and see service record, photos, etc.
But thats where US and sweden differs most. In US you need to have "papers" on everything. In sweden most things can be looked up through computer, so even if you have no papers or records, theres almost always a record in some computer somewhere.
Thats why you don't need a tax decal on vehicles in sweden, because they just run the plate number and they will instantly see tax status, insurance status, inspection report, driver's license status, title status, if its stolen or not, all reports made on vehicle since it was manufactured (so if previous owner had a break-in with smashed window on the vehicle, that police report will come up) etc.
Same with safes for weapon storage and classified document storage. Everything is registred in computer, if for example a weapon in sweden is seized from a criminal, the safe's number will be written in computer, and it can potentially lead to problems for the new safe owner. Or if safe has once been stolen etc. Everything is written down.
HOWEVER, safes in sweden for classified documents DO have labels, but they have no legal meaning. The labels are only as a helpful hint to those that are using the safe, so they know which safe can be used for which documents. Its basically a label consisting of 4 boxes, one box for each document type (non-public, classified, secret, top secret) and the boxes will have indications on which document types are permitted in that storage container.
Even if a safe is approved for lets say "Secret", it may still bear a label saying its prohibited to store "Secret" in that safe, but thats because the safe's location may make it unsuitable, for example sometimes a location must stay under alarm condition for any safes to be loaded with documents higher than a specific document level. So its not just the container itself that needs to be approved for its content, the safe's location may have dependence too.
In some cases, it might be prohibited alltogether, just because, for example, people from the public have access to that location, and that means, if a officer picks up a document from the safe, a member of the public may see the document with its own eyes, compromising its secrecy. Thus the safe may not be used for such documents due to its location, even tough the safe itself would hold up.
Its not like, prohibited to store documents in a safe with missing classifiation label, BUT, if you do, you are yourself responsible for that the safe bears the valid classification AND the location in question is approved too, which could mean criminal liability IF you store the documents in a safe that doesn't meet the classification requirement.
However, if a safe is missing its label, and you know the safe is approved, you can usually look at other containers in the same room, in most cases all containers in a room bears a specific minimum level, with a few having a higher classification, so if you have a safe that have its label fallen off, you can look at other safes, you might see 3 safes approved for "Classified" and one safe approved for "Secret". Then you can know the label-missing-safe is atleast approved for "Classified". (Theres NEVER such as 3 levels in the same room, its always 1 or 2 levels in a single room).
decades old adhesives always throw a wrench in controlled experiments
@deviantollam - Ethanol is almost always better than iso in my experience, and is nearly as safe / non-marking as iso for most paints / coatins. Also super useful on plastic substrates, obv.
Heat gun (plus solvents) might help with metal on metal.
Try enamel reducer I have found it works very well, Heat Gun works well to
Please try DMSO as solvent (just use PP equipment, as it can easily be absorbed by skin with everything which is dissolved in it).
Get some limonene, it's an amazing solvent for stickers etc. as well as a crazy effective degreaser.
I noticed that you went in with the scraper directly after applying the solvent. I wonder if you could just squirt some one, wait a bit, squirt again and _then_ go in with the scraper.
If you kept soft pressure on the front of the label that may help stop those tiny folds every time you pull again. Good luck everyone N ThankQ for running it.TkEZ>UK
i think a hand-held baby heat gun might be able to help with something like this, just to heat the label up enough, squirt some solvent over once it's warm and you'd be able to lift it off with minimal creasing. you'd need a few minutes alone with the equipment though, but if you've picked or socially engineered your way into a control room or switch room, you might be the only person in there for hours. could do all sorts of mischief
would have heat worked on those old ones as well?
maybe for getting them flat again you could"iron" them?
Some spray adhesive applied to the removed label may be a viable option
yeah the Rolling might help with Metal Stickers - if you're going to be putting it back on a flat Surface anyways, then you could probably make it look way better if you really smashed it on there with something nice and Round so that it helps hide those Wrinkles.
it still would probably fail a full on examination, but you should be able to get it to look good enough that they probably wouldn't do the examination.
Could you use heat to get these metal labels off?
Hello from Virginia 👍 watching.
If you take your big lighter hold it at the back of it warm it up just a little bit you'll peel them right off no damage
that is an interesting idea, since the container is metal, yeah
The Shake Hands With Danger lick threw me off balance. If you recognize it, and you’re not a listener of Well There’s Your Problem, an engineering disaster podcast with slides, I think you could be.
Shake hands with danger!
I have no idea what this is or why you are doing this but i really like these videos for some reason
Any chance you could talk about breaking out of flex cuffs? I love your old metal handcuff key videos.
As a dane, I'm going to complain about the fact that you set the "state" input as obligatory, since some places don't use that field
Worked in shipping for a while. It's wacky for every country. Just use your city name again.
interesting stuff. i like seeing hearing your thoughts while finding 'the way in'. have you ever tried removing egg shell stickers used mainly for tagging?
It scares the crap out of me to see you working with that needle and solvents. Whenever I do anything with a nice pointy awl or other pick, I nearly always end up stabbing myself. I think about it so hard to try not to that I do it anyway! And I have a prison tat on my index finger from jamming a sharp pen into the cap, and missing, more than once. (injected straight into my finger)
I just can't imagine how much an accidental jab with isopropyl or acetone might go!! I see how convenient it is, but don't ever let me have that!
Is there any possible indicator on what solvent to use or do you just go from least to most potentially damaging? Also what are your plastic scrapers made of?
For the first I don't know but for the second, probably some kind of plastic.
what do such solvents do to a nice wood table like that?
I had a book as a kid which suggested using carbon tetrachloride(!) for a similar application; opening an envelop covertly
I'm not sure you can even get carbon tetrachloride anywhere these days
I’d be interested to see how Folch reagent performs (2:1 chloroform:methanol). Straight chloroform could also some potential uses.
What would happen if you'd warm that label up first with a heat gun and then applied isopropyl alcohol? The heat must do something to the glue right?
I'm sorry, you say you "whacked off" a part of a GSA container?
Sorry. As a federal employee for almost a quarter century, this is amusing on two levels. 🤣 Safes, security containers and vaults are now something that falls inside my new job description but due to the fact people have been closing them without knowing the combination a lot lately, and getting them back open can take hours to multiple days (in a way that doesn't destroy the safe or its contents) I'm glad I haven't been through that particular training just yet.
just an idea to do it perfectly
dont peel the sticker at all, just keep applying heptain for a while so it slowly seaps thru all the glue
then just slide the sticker around while continueing to apply it
eventualy its going to get to a point where almost all the glue is off it and it will just fall off
or in this example, just slide it off the edge of the metal
Have you ever tried to use solvents + heat?
do you sell the solvents in a kit?
You need some CFC-113 solvent for something this old....
Would have been tempted to use an iron.