All you need to do is pull the black thing out from the cable until you hear it click and lock into place(very important).. This is the installation position. It can be helpful to disconnect the cable from the linkage on top so you can compress the cable with one hand, while using your other hand to guide it into place on the trans. .Then just make sure the metal hook on the transmission is somewhat centered in the hole. No need to push it up or anything. Then just push the cable into the bore until it seats and make that small twist to move it into position so you can secure it with the clip at the top. As long as you have the cable clicked into the install position, and the metal hook on the trans close to the center of the bore, the two pieces will self-guide themselves together. You can tell if it is properly hooked if you can feel spring tension when you pull on the cable and release.It's actually very easy.
I am glad I found your channel. I hope you can help me. 1995 s500. Transmission starts at first gear ,not second!!! Then shifts to third directly!!!. Fourth is alittle bit late also. Transmission is not original, could be from another year or model. Changed the fluid and filter. Fluid was bad. Shifting came earlier and little improved but still starting at first and going from first directly to third. I just need pointers as to where to start. Thanks in advance
Hi. I assume you have a full speed mechanical/hydraulic transmission. Check the tx model number, make sure it can take the torque from your engine. This Transmissions can be installed on any Vehicles because they have same outside dimensions and mounting Dimensions but the internal components are different the number of friction plates and valve body plungers spring forces. Second... check 2 vacuum lines coming to your transmission one is a black line that runs from the intake manifold and it goes to the left hand side of a transmission and connects to the modulation valve. Second line is green color and it runs to the right hand side of a transmission and connects to this actuator shown in this video. If this two lines are connected and there are no vacuum leaks nextyou need to check modulation valve pressure. This pressure is responsible for the smoothness of gear shifts. You will have to look in a manual what this pressure is supposed to be for your particular transmission . If this checks out next thing I would suggest you drop the valve body, take it apart inspect and clean it. Sometimes some of the Springs brake and that creates this weird shifting pattern. I have a video where I have rebuilt the valve body for 722.424 transmission. Yours might be slightly different in the number of Steel balls so you will have to search Google and download the manual for your transmission it will help you a lot when rebuilding your valve body.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel oh, thank you very much for the pointers. I think I will go get me a core and make a rebuild project out of it. I already downloaded the ATSG manual and did a bunch of googling. How hard can it be? I got you, right😉
@@karroome unless you really want to dive in I would do it in stages. Before taking the transmission down I would still rebuild the valve body first and see if that changes the behavior of a transmission that's probably the simplest way. Taking the transmission down is somewhat difficult especially if you dont have a hoist.
@@karroome good luck. When rebuilding the valve body: 1. Take your time 2. Take lots of pictures or even a video. 3. Make sure you place the big paper gasket on the correct side of the steel plate, i made a mistake cause i didnt pay attention 4. When u get to the part where you have to separate 2 halves of the valve body pay attention which half should be on the bottom, or you could loose some of the steel balls. 5. When pulling out plungers i had a tray and i folded a piece of paper like an accordion, keep the order and orientation of the pieces. 6. Be very careful... Dont scatch the bores ot the piston surfaces if using metal picks, better use plastic tools. And last one: the gear selector "wheel" inside the transmission on the left side has a pin, make sure it engages into the end of the long plunger in the valve body when you install back the valve body. these are the main thi gs to pay attention.
I've got a couple of questions. I own a '89 W201 (facelifted version), and had gearbox recently replaced. My old one had a early version shift point retarder (for faster catalytic converter heating) and it was a set of 2 pipes attached to left side of gearbox with an electric connection, pretty similar to a kick-down switch. AFAIK this system proved unreliable and was replaced with a pneumatic one, similar to E/S program selector. The bowden cable block in that case had 2 vacuum lines attached, one to E/S selector and one to shift point retarder. So, can I just wire the signal from ECU to E/S selector switch, so gearbox would work in S mode either when I set it to, or when ECU wants shift point to be delayed, or do I need actually to look for said bowden cable block with 2 vacuum lines and other parts? (And do i really need to as far as I got catalytic converter completely removed). And about those hollow bolts that attaches oil cooling lines to gearbox. How should aluminum washers be located on said bolt? WIS doesn't cover that other than "rEpLaCe wAsHerS wItH nEw oNeS" and I think I got oil leak because of wrong washers position.
Здравствуйте, этот блок отвечает за режим комфортной езды со второй передачи чтобы трогался. Если несложно сможете ответить что именно отвечает за режим Е.
Thanks for the video! I have a 722.118 that has been sitting for years. It has no leaks and the pressure is according to the manuals. The problem is that at times the pressure drops to zero and the exchange doesn't work. I changed the oil and filter, but the problem persists. It only works again when I accelerate above 3000rpm. Any suggestion?
its hard to say, it looks like it;s a pretty old transmission...i think there's an internal leak that shows at some specific conditions. when you get the rpm above 3000 the main pump creates more flow to cover the loss. I think it needs a new set of seals...
Андрей, приветствую Вас! Есть вопрос по поводу АКП. У меня Мерс 124, Е320 1994. Маркировкy коробки не смотрел. Проблема такая: при переключении скоростей машина делает толчок/рывок. "при переключении" имеется ввиду не находу, скажем с 1-ой на 2-ую, а когда машина стоит и переключаешь с P на D, или на R. Дело в том, что я только что сделал ремонт всей задней подвески: сайлентблоки подрамника, втулки моста, тяги. Втулки моста были порваны. Теперь я подозреваю что именно из-за того что машина делала эти рывки эти втулки порвались преждевременно и мне пришлось всё заменить, как я выше написал об этом. Как думаете, что может быть с АКП? Кроме того, было раза 3-4 за 5 лет что я езжу на ней, что иногда не брала первую скорость.
как дела? нашли причину? следующий шаг, надо смотреть модулятор, тут класно все описано czcams.com/video/gRnwSqm2bF8/video.html czcams.com/video/XfM5eNEWrf8/video.html
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel Андрей, во-первых, спасибо что не забываете! А во-вторых, у Вас наверное какие-то телепатические качества есть. Только где-то пару часов назад смотрел на ютубе про вакуумный модулятор.))) Нет, я так и не искал вакуумные трубки идущие к коробке с тех пор. Но зато поменял моторные подушки - теперь сидишь в салоне и ноль вибраций, как новая машина. Сейчас мне доставляет больше дискомфорта то что есть биение в руль в принципе на любой скорости -на малой, средней, большой. Естественно, чем выше скорость тем частота биений выше. Затянул ступичные подшипники (даже слишком), но проблема осталась. Как диагностировать проблему? Не подскажете? P.S. Спасибо за видео - сейчас посмотрю.
I'm looking at a 722 transmission out of a 1997 300d. Is there an easy way to run this without a computer? I'm swapping it into a truck and the transmission won't come out of first. I'd like to run some kind of manual valve body or switch system to bypass the computer. Any ideas? thanks!
So you put a transmission inro your truck and now it will not upshift and stays in 1 gear? Get a good scanner and clear all faults in transmission module.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel there is no computer in the transmission anymore to control shifts it's hooked up to an ok om603. Im trying to figure out how to by pass and manually control the transmission via the solenoids and or gear lever.
@@joshalsip9441 I think you could control the solenoids with some push buttons because shift solenoids are 12 VDC on-off or build a shift tower, but there are shift pressure and pressure modulating solenoids that are proportional and require more complicated algorithm. I don't know all the details and i'm not a software engineer..to know how to figure out this
just to confirm this is a 722.6xx transmission...a 5 speed electronic? Google for 722.6 or NAG1 service manual, it has lots of information on transmission operation
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel okay thanks for your help. I was originally looking for a om603 for a project but this just dropped in my lap and is so cheap I might try to make it work. I had saw a video of a guy controlling a th400 my controlling the solenoids on toggles and thought it might be a good temporary option. I'll look into the service manual thanks for your help!
é difícil entender o que você está perguntando, eu não falo português, eu uso Google Tradutor. tem certeza de que comprou a transmissão correta? 1996 é o ano em que as transmissões 722.5XX foram introduzidas.
Hello guys i have an 300d w124 1987. I rebuild My transmission and after that don't shifting the 4 speed. Some time after 2 speed don't shifting automatically. I AM missing a detail. Can any one help me with. Thanks for your víde.
My 722.4 stay in first and not shifting. My mechanic already disassemble the transmission, do full service and replaced all seal yet it still the same. Do it have something to do with this? My car is originally 4.2 v8 w140 and the previous owner change to 2.8 m104 engine for cheaper roadtax. But still using the same transmission. I guessed this problem happened after the conversion and they can't solved it then put it on sale. I really like to use this car. But now it's already on 4th month inside the workshop 😭😭😭
Thank you SO much. The service manual does a poor job at explaining this. You do a good job.
All you need to do is pull the black thing out from the cable until you hear it click and lock into place(very important).. This is the installation position. It can be helpful to disconnect the cable from the linkage on top so you can compress the cable with one hand, while using your other hand to guide it into place on the trans. .Then just make sure the metal hook on the transmission is somewhat centered in the hole. No need to push it up or anything. Then just push the cable into the bore until it seats and make that small twist to move it into position so you can secure it with the clip at the top. As long as you have the cable clicked into the install position, and the metal hook on the trans close to the center of the bore, the two pieces will self-guide themselves together. You can tell if it is properly hooked if you can feel spring tension when you pull on the cable and release.It's actually very easy.
Very useful... Thanks
I am glad I found your channel. I hope you can help me. 1995 s500. Transmission starts at first gear ,not second!!! Then shifts to third directly!!!. Fourth is alittle bit late also. Transmission is not original, could be from another year or model. Changed the fluid and filter. Fluid was bad. Shifting came earlier and little improved but still starting at first and going from first directly to third.
I just need pointers as to where to start. Thanks in advance
Hi. I assume you have a full speed mechanical/hydraulic transmission. Check the tx model number, make sure it can take the torque from your engine. This Transmissions can be installed on any Vehicles because they have same outside dimensions and mounting Dimensions but the internal components are different the number of friction plates and valve body plungers spring forces. Second... check 2 vacuum lines coming to your transmission one is a black line that runs from the intake manifold and it goes to the left hand side of a transmission and connects to the modulation valve. Second line is green color and it runs to the right hand side of a transmission and connects to this actuator shown in this video. If this two lines are connected and there are no vacuum leaks nextyou need to check modulation valve pressure. This pressure is responsible for the smoothness of gear shifts. You will have to look in a manual what this pressure is supposed to be for your particular transmission . If this checks out next thing I would suggest you drop the valve body, take it apart inspect and clean it. Sometimes some of the Springs brake and that creates this weird shifting pattern. I have a video where I have rebuilt the valve body for 722.424 transmission. Yours might be slightly different in the number of Steel balls so you will have to search Google and download the manual for your transmission it will help you a lot when rebuilding your valve body.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel oh, thank you very much for the pointers. I think I will go get me a core and make a rebuild project out of it. I already downloaded the ATSG manual and did a bunch of googling. How hard can it be? I got you, right😉
@@karroome unless you really want to dive in I would do it in stages. Before taking the transmission down I would still rebuild the valve body first and see if that changes the behavior of a transmission that's probably the simplest way. Taking the transmission down is somewhat difficult especially if you dont have a hoist.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel solid advice, thank you very much
@@karroome good luck.
When rebuilding the valve body:
1. Take your time
2. Take lots of pictures or even a video.
3. Make sure you place the big paper gasket on the correct side of the steel plate, i made a mistake cause i didnt pay attention
4. When u get to the part where you have to separate 2 halves of the valve body pay attention which half should be on the bottom, or you could loose some of the steel balls.
5. When pulling out plungers i had a tray and i folded a piece of paper like an accordion, keep the order and orientation of the pieces.
6. Be very careful... Dont scatch the bores ot the piston surfaces if using metal picks, better use plastic tools.
And last one: the gear selector "wheel" inside the transmission on the left side has a pin, make sure it engages into the end of the long plunger in the valve body when you install back the valve body. these are the main thi gs to pay attention.
THANK YOU ANDY FOR YOUR SHARE. I will watch it full and learn. Thanks again.
you welcome
I've got a couple of questions. I own a '89 W201 (facelifted version), and had gearbox recently replaced. My old one had a early version shift point retarder (for faster catalytic converter heating) and it was a set of 2 pipes attached to left side of gearbox with an electric connection, pretty similar to a kick-down switch. AFAIK this system proved unreliable and was replaced with a pneumatic one, similar to E/S program selector. The bowden cable block in that case had 2 vacuum lines attached, one to E/S selector and one to shift point retarder. So, can I just wire the signal from ECU to E/S selector switch, so gearbox would work in S mode either when I set it to, or when ECU wants shift point to be delayed, or do I need actually to look for said bowden cable block with 2 vacuum lines and other parts? (And do i really need to as far as I got catalytic converter completely removed). And about those hollow bolts that attaches oil cooling lines to gearbox. How should aluminum washers be located on said bolt? WIS doesn't cover that other than "rEpLaCe wAsHerS wItH nEw oNeS" and I think I got oil leak because of wrong washers position.
Здравствуйте, этот блок отвечает за режим комфортной езды со второй передачи чтобы трогался. Если несложно сможете ответить что именно отвечает за режим Е.
I have a gear like this, I changed the oil pump and it doesn’t engage anything, it could help me, I’m from Brazil
Thanks for the video! I have a 722.118 that has been sitting for years. It has no leaks and the pressure is according to the manuals. The problem is that at times the pressure drops to zero and the exchange doesn't work. I changed the oil and filter, but the problem persists. It only works again when I accelerate above 3000rpm. Any suggestion?
its hard to say, it looks like it;s a pretty old transmission...i think there's an internal leak that shows at some specific conditions. when you get the rpm above 3000 the main pump creates more flow to cover the loss. I think it needs a new set of seals...
e tem esas mangueiras de de vacuo do cambio alguma delas estao quebradas ou fora do lugar isso atrapalha na passagens da marcha?
there no vacuum hoses in the gearshift.
voce tem uma tabela de posicao desas mangueiras ?
these are 2 vacuum hoses coming to transmission, let me know if you still need the schematic
Андрей, приветствую Вас!
Есть вопрос по поводу АКП. У меня Мерс 124, Е320 1994. Маркировкy коробки не смотрел. Проблема такая: при переключении скоростей машина делает толчок/рывок. "при переключении" имеется ввиду не находу, скажем с 1-ой на 2-ую, а когда машина стоит и переключаешь с P на D, или на R. Дело в том, что я только что сделал ремонт всей задней подвески: сайлентблоки подрамника, втулки моста, тяги. Втулки моста были порваны. Теперь я подозреваю что именно из-за того что машина делала эти рывки эти втулки порвались преждевременно и мне пришлось всё заменить, как я выше написал об этом. Как думаете, что может быть с АКП? Кроме того, было раза 3-4 за 5 лет что я езжу на ней, что иногда не брала первую скорость.
Я думаю у вас стоит 4 ступени, это гидравлическая коробка. Для начала проверьте 2 вакуумные трубки идущие к коробке.
@@andrewp3089 Спасибо за ответ. А на предмет чего нужно проверить вакуумные трубки?
@@biopump2000 чтобы не пропускали вакуум.
Потом проверьте уровень жидкости в АКП.
как дела? нашли причину?
следующий шаг, надо смотреть модулятор,
тут класно все описано
czcams.com/video/gRnwSqm2bF8/video.html
czcams.com/video/XfM5eNEWrf8/video.html
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel Андрей, во-первых, спасибо что не забываете! А во-вторых, у Вас наверное какие-то телепатические качества есть. Только где-то пару часов назад смотрел на ютубе про вакуумный модулятор.))) Нет, я так и не искал вакуумные трубки идущие к коробке с тех пор. Но зато поменял моторные подушки - теперь сидишь в салоне и ноль вибраций, как новая машина. Сейчас мне доставляет больше дискомфорта то что есть биение в руль в принципе на любой скорости -на малой, средней, большой. Естественно, чем выше скорость тем частота биений выше. Затянул ступичные подшипники (даже слишком), но проблема осталась. Как диагностировать проблему? Не подскажете?
P.S. Спасибо за видео - сейчас посмотрю.
oi boa tarde comprei um cambio 7224 revisado montei o carro e nao passa as marcha so tem a1 marchra e a marcha re
Desculpe, não consigo entender sua pergunta. eu nao falo portugues
What are the symptoms of a bad controller?
If you are referring to the control cable setting as the controller then that is responsible for downshifting when you press on the pedal
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel my pressure cable is to the full maxed out for early shifts and it shift 2-3 and 3-4 at 3000rpm
I'm looking at a 722 transmission out of a 1997 300d. Is there an easy way to run this without a computer? I'm swapping it into a truck and the transmission won't come out of first. I'd like to run some kind of manual valve body or switch system to bypass the computer. Any ideas? thanks!
So you put a transmission inro your truck and now it will not upshift and stays in 1 gear?
Get a good scanner and clear all faults in transmission module.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel there is no computer in the transmission anymore to control shifts it's hooked up to an ok om603. Im trying to figure out how to by pass and manually control the transmission via the solenoids and or gear lever.
@@joshalsip9441 I think you could control the solenoids with some push buttons because shift solenoids are 12 VDC on-off or build a shift tower, but there are shift pressure and pressure modulating solenoids that are proportional and require more complicated algorithm. I don't know all the details and i'm not a software engineer..to know how to figure out this
just to confirm this is a 722.6xx transmission...a 5 speed electronic? Google for 722.6 or NAG1 service manual, it has lots of information on transmission operation
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel okay thanks for your help. I was originally looking for a om603 for a project but this just dropped in my lap and is so cheap I might try to make it work. I had saw a video of a guy controlling a th400 my controlling the solenoids on toggles and thought it might be a good temporary option. I'll look into the service manual thanks for your help!
o meu carro e c220 1996 4 cil gasolina w202
é difícil entender o que você está perguntando, eu não falo português,
eu uso Google Tradutor.
tem certeza de que comprou a transmissão correta? 1996 é o ano em que as transmissões 722.5XX foram introduzidas.
Hello guys i have an 300d w124 1987. I rebuild My transmission and after that don't shifting the 4 speed. Some time after 2 speed don't shifting automatically. I AM missing a detail. Can any one help me with. Thanks for your víde.
this is a tough one...depends how much did you disassemble. did you take apart the manifold block?
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel I Will regulate first the cable conectes from the transmission to the pump. And yeah i AM desarmed all for clean it.
@@AndyPMercedesBenzChannel i used the same.
My 722.4 stay in first and not shifting.
My mechanic already disassemble the transmission, do full service and replaced all seal yet it still the same. Do it have something to do with this? My car is originally 4.2 v8 w140 and the previous owner change to 2.8 m104 engine for cheaper roadtax. But still using the same transmission. I guessed this problem happened after the conversion and they can't solved it then put it on sale. I really like to use this car. But now it's already on 4th month inside the workshop 😭😭😭
Ammar send me your email. Im not a transmission mechanic, but i'll try to help you if i can.