Capture One Pro Tips - Easy Dust Spot Finder & Removal Tools
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- Learn a really easy way to reliably find every single dust spot on your image in Capture One - with one simple adjustment layer.
While the "Remove Spot" and "Healing Mask" tools do a fantastic job of removing them once found - making sure you don't miss any dust spots across the entire photograph can be a challenge in itself.
In this video, Paul walks you through a simple method of exposing even the most subtle of blemishes, along with a quick way of fixing them too.
** SAVING YOUR DUST SPOT FINDER AS A STYLE FOR RE-USE **
A few people have asked if it's possible to save these layers as a style and re-use them on other images to save time. The short answer is YES for the "Dust Spot Finder" (or "Yuck Delete") layer, and NO for the "Dust Removal" layer, and here's how/why:
To save the Dust Spot Finder Layer as a Style:
- [Right-click] the layer and select "Save Adjustments as Style".
- Make sure you select the "Exposure" check box and the "Details" check box, and hit "Save".
- Capture One will ask you for a name [your choice], and to save it in your styles folder.
To apply your new style to another image:
Option 1:
- Go to the "Adjustments" tab in Capture One after loading your image.
- Expand the "User Styles" tab underneath, and you'll find the style name that you saved in there.
- [Right-click] that new style and select "Apply to New Layer" - do NOT click "Apply to Background".
- Remember to create your healing layer UNDERNEATH this new layer, when you return to the Exposure tab.
Option 2:
- Create a new "Filled Adjustment Layer" from the Layers palette.
- [Right-click] that layer and choose "Apply Adjustments From", "User Styles", [Name of your style]
- Again, remember to create your healing layer UNDER this scanner/finder/yuck layer!
Copying/Applying the Removal Layer:
While possible (in the same way as above), it's not recommended in most scenarios:
- Dust can move over time
- Your composition can change dramatically (so healing source points will have different data and destinations have moved)
- Your composition can change minimally - like a nudge to the tripod (so healing source points will have different data and destinations have moved)
- The scene itself can change/move/etc in wind - meaning that while the destination for the heal is the same dust spot, the origin you want to take it from may differ.
For a video guide to creating, saving and applying User Styles and Presets - check our other Pro Tips session: • Capture One Pro Tips -...
Presented by Phase One and Capture One Pro Ambassador - Commercial, Landscape & Cityscape Photographer Paul Reiffer. All video content © www.paulreiffer.com/ and may not be reproduced without permission.
Recorded using Capture One Pro v20.1 on an Apple Mac Pro 16-core Xeon with 192GB memory, 2x Radeon Pro Vega II Graphics cards and 4TB SSD.
And don't forget, the discussion continues on our Behind The Scenes Facebook group: / paulreifferlive - Jak na to + styl
Thank you Paul, fantastic topic and education
Incredibly useful. Thank you.
Hi Paul, this is just an amazing tutorial. Really excellent! Thank you very much. This is most helpful 😊👌 Lot’s of greetings, Dennis 🇳🇱
Sir, this was one of the most helpful videos on CaptureOne I have come across! Thank you very much, highly appreciated!
Super useful and handy! Thank You, Paul!
Thank you for showng this procedure, Paul! Very helpful!
Paul, Thank you for putting together such amazing tutorials! They are extremely educational & helpful. Please keep them coming:)
Hi Paul, this is another great tutorial! Very very helpful ! Thanks again for sharing your help and knowledge !
Many thanks, Paul. I have 'sat through' all of the recent posts, with pleasure. You are the 'find
of my 8 week imprisonment. Thanks again and keep posting... Cheers from Kaunas!
Another amazing tutorial. Thank you for share with us.
Paul your videos are brilliant and so useful, thank you very much 👍🙏
Great video Paul. Thanks for this explanation. I will use in the future.
AWESOME video Paul. Keep it Up!!
Hi Paul, this is impressive. Well done. I will use this method from now on.
Very, very helpful! Thank you so much for doing this!
Literally the best tutorial i have ever come across on YT. You are an amazing tutor. been using C1 for years but continue to be impressed how many pro tips I am learning from you. This tutorial is pure magic. Cheers
Hello Paul, wow thank you! I just discovered your C1 tutorials. I have been a C1 user for a number of years and would make round trips to Photoshop for the dust removal. This will save so much time!
Fantastic! I have viewed each of the videos you have posted over the past few days, and they are all excellent. Very useful information being shared. Thanks a million for sharing your expertise.
Thanks Kevin - glad they've helped!
Hello Paul,
Thank you for your videos.
I discovered your channel recently, and your videos give me a great number of tricks concerning C1 Pro.
They are highly useful. Please, go on.
Thank you Paul! I have waited since your first lesson and i have to say that since you're around, Capture One is much more fun and easy learn!!!!
Great to hear! :-)
What a clever way to remove spots. Thanks for another great tutorial!
No worries Judy - look out for the session on User Presets & Styles, landing shortly, which covers how to save such layers and re-use them in future too :-)
Thank you. That is very helpful.
Muchas gracias.
To find the dust you also can do a "ZigZag Curve" aka Solarize effect on a layer. Granted the image looks weird, but you see all the places where something funky is going on.
Muchas gracias
Great explanation as usual. Saved the layer as a style, very handy. Thanks!
Perfect Harry - yes, having that dust spot finder layer as a style makes it easy to apply to other images. Just be careful if doing the same with the removal layer, as dust moves (and so does the content of the scene!)
@@Paulreiffer Saving the dust removal layers as a Style, that's what you meant by "Automation." I thought there was some Actions in CaptureOne!
Very useful video, thanks.
Not sure where I referenced "automated" in terms of saving as a layer, but no - scripting delivers automation, and there's plenty of it available in Capture One :-)
Firstly I've just meant it similar as Paul answered, just have a style and be able to add it as a layer with all these setting ready. Of course always with a new removal layer. But Automation per script sounds interessting as well, maybe I can have a look at this soon.
That's Great!! Makes old eyes younger again....
Thank you...
amazing. thx
Just stumbled across your channel, and it's great! You have a new subscriber 8-)
Brilliant! Thanks. Your tutorials are really helpful. +1 for C1 adding an easier one button tool like the other guys have. Also would like to see an easy way to work the dust spots by zooming in in Navigator and moving around the image uniformly with arrow keys, again like I can in that other programme.
Brilliant! Many thanks. Maybe the COP team will add a dust spot finder in a future release, as per Lightroom.
Thanks!
Thanks so much Gail! :-)
Really excellent tutorial!
I made the "dust spotter" adjustments to the background layer, made a User Style out of that. Reset the adjustments to the background layer back to normal.
Not I have a User Style I can Ctrl/Right click and apply to new layer :)
Nice work! For those wondering how to do that, the instructions are in the description of the video - and there's a separate guide here too: czcams.com/video/RJR5MCXwxPA/video.html :-)
Hopefully Capture One has been updated to match Lightroom's 'visualize spots' feature. Much prefer over the 20 steps required for this process.
Hi Paul, thanks for that. Yet another tutorial showing the benefits of layers with raw editing!
An alternative is to use the Capture One LCC tool which will automatically remove dust spots as well as colour casts. However you need to make a separate exposure with a piece of perspex in front of the lens either just before or after the actual image(s) you want. You can get a filter from teamworkphoto (UK) or maybe directly from Phase One. Bit more laborious at the shooting stage but saves loads of time in post.
The LCC is great - BUT, it won't always work on any front element dust (*and* you need to make sure your white perspex is perfectly clean - something I've seen people miss before!).
Beyond that, if you're using a filter holder (which also have a cast and potential to pick up dust "dings") - you'll struggle to hold that card in from of a heavy setup for the 1-2 minutes worth of exposure you need (trust me, I've tried with my own)...
All in all, it's probably an 80-90% job with the white card, but I'd still then want to inspect the image up-close to see the bits it missed. As such, I don't tend to bother, as I'll be inspecting all areas of the image in post anyway.
Cool!
Hi Paul , Thank you .You have made possible To CHANGE my ages workflow . I am a unhappy old Adobe products user and have been testing CO . Spot removal was Huge problem , you gave the path to solve it .I am beginning the process to say Adobe take a hike . As Fuji GFX 100 shooter , used to very large files for Focus Stacking and Pano , (Helicon,PTGui) Software speed is excellent , no delay at all . Using Win 10 , Hardware config - processor I 9 10th gen , 168 Ram , 3 flash HD 6tb total , Gforce gtx 1070 with 1 monitor Eizo CG 277 , 2 Synology 40tb .
Thanks Marcos! Adobe still provides a lot of value in the tools they offer, but as a general rule, the more you can do in your raw processor - the less destructive the result, and the better the image overall :-)
Ingenious trick, Paul. Nevertheless, I believe C1 should have a similar and easier method as the one Lightroom has. For me, It would be a grrrrrreat update !!. By the way, the style is saved as one layer, isn't it?. I mean when you aply to the style to a new layer, the result is only one layer.
Thanks for your work
Yes, so a style only goes onto one layer - BUT...
You only need one layer - for the Finder/Scanner.
The second layer is the healing layer, which will be unique to every other image :-)
👍👍👍
Paul that is very useful indeed, thankyou. In the YUK layer could I have used levels tool to just show the mid tones and tweaked clarity to get to the required YUK layer?
Absolutely, yes you can - also take a look at curves too, but just be careful as each image may need a slightly different curve to get the clarity of the spots just right.
@@Paulreiffer thankyou
This is fabulous. Can I make a “style” layer out of this YUCK layer and just add it to my photos????
Yup, absolutely 👍
Pro tip:
When using the Healing Tool (Q shortcut), Right Click.
You can then adjust your healing tool's size, hardness, and opacity to your liking.
Hi Paul. Thanks for sharing this videos. They have been very useful. Have one question though. When healing on the new C1 when I try to move the source point selected by C1 when I do it with the trackpad on my lap top no problem. When I do it with the wacom pen it only lets me select it (shows orange) but doesn´t let me drag it. Any thought? Thanks!
Honestly haven’t seen that Urroz, so I’m a little stumped there. At a guess, have you made any changes to the default functions in your Wacom utility? Wondering if it’s a pen pressure or right-click equivalence option that’s enabled somewhere...?
@@Paulreiffer I haven´t touched it. Just assigned some us to the buttons. But Ill check further. I think it has to do more with the pen than with C1 :)
I suppose if you didn't clean the lens/camera combination you could use this layer as a default import recipe?.. great video as ever.... thanks...
Technically, yes - you could, but be careful if using the healing brush, as if the content of the image changes, the origin points for some of those heals might be slightly off (and picking up elements you don't want to paste over the dust!)
@@Paulreiffer Yes this is the problem when shooting portraits or fashion for fixing spots....any ideas for changing origin points? Spot tool may be better?
Thanks, another useful video. I did see another technique where a layer was created with quite a radical tone curve, making an S curve, dropping the highlights and increasing the shadows (if that makes sense). The S curve layer becomes the yuck-delete layer. I till try your method next time I am at my computer. Would it be possible to create a yuck-layer style and just apply this to a layer for dust identification only?
Yeah - it's possible to do it with levels and curves, BUT the curve you need will likely differ from image to image, so this is a safer way of re-using the same method time after time :-)
@@Paulreiffer Sure and understood. I have tried and of course it works a treat. I have created a style from the yuck-delete layer and now I just have to apply the style to a new layer on any image and instant spot finder. Nice!!
I love that we've started an entire movement of "YUCK-DELETE" layers around the world! :-)
@@Paulreiffer Paul, I started to save the YUK layer as a style but noticed that in the list of adjustments to select (in the menu) there is none for clarity or structure. Is this a shortcoming in the user style creation or do I need to make a change in a preference to include as selectable adjustments?
Don't worry Lew - it's under "Details" in the list of checkboxes on the style-save dialog box.
If you tick (or expand) that, you'll find Clarity and Structure are copied across.
So, select "Exposure" (parent) and "Details" (parent) and you're all set!
Thanks, I appreciate this workaround. It's a shame that it's so long winded. In LR6 I could identify the dust spots with the click of a switch.
As of the latest release of Capture One 23, there's an automatic dust spot removal button 👍
then these settings for seeing the dust spots could be a saved preset or style which i simply apply to a new layer?
Absolutely - and/or a style brush to find them too! :-)
Two questions:
1.Can I save the Dust Finder settings as a style or preset, then copy them each time I need them?
2. Copy the Dust Removal layer to a series of photos in the same format (landscape or portrait)at the same time? The dust spots will be in the same places.
Hi Max,
Yes - absolutely for the finder, you can save it as a User Style and apply to multiple images, and tweak them later :-)
For the removal layer, be very, very, careful. If the subject/scene is identical, and nothing at all has changed (not composition, not a thing) then it's probably safe. But remember, the origins of any healing brush will pick up new sources if anything moves at all...
Max: Since you're using sliders from more than one group, you need to create a Style. Presets in C1 only work with one group of sliders. The easiest way to do this is to right-click on your YUCK-DELETE layer and select Save Settings as Style. To use it again on another image, create a new filled layer, label it (YUCK-DELETE) and then right-click and choose Apply Adjustments From/ User Styles/whateveryoucalledthestyle
Thanks Mike - yes, there's also a second way to apply the style and create the layer at the same time on a new image. We updated the description earlier to detail the steps :-)
Is it possible to make a recipe from the Dust spot scanner layer?
Yup - it's in the description of the video ;-)
Have you every copied the 2-layers, and applied them other, similar images? Say you took 5-images of the same scene/setup, etc., and before you did any adjustments, you do the spot removal the way you demonstrated, and copy those to other images?
Absolutely - you can, and you can save the adjustments as a style for the dust-finder layer (make sure you click the boxes next to "Exposure" and "Details" when you do so :-).
Just be careful with the actual removal layer, as origin points can move around depending on the content of the actual image - but as you say, if the same image/setup/scene, there shouldn't be any risk!
@@Paulreiffer - Thanks!
I'll see a great opportunity for an automatic tool?? Just one click to see all the dust. And as a 1Dx... user, I like to be able to remove more dustspots then only one hundred!!!
You’re not allowed to complain until you’ve had a go at removing them from one of my 151mp Phase One files - now THAT hurts! 😂🤦♂️
(And check the description, or our video on User Styles for a way of speeding things up 😉)
So why not have a one-click dust spot visualisation tool, like Lightroom? It should not be necessary to go to these lengths to see the dust spots, and even then this method would not pick up as many as Lightroom, or as reliably. In the absence of C1 doing anything about this glaring omission, this is as good a method of visualising dust spots in C1 as I have seen. As you say, not much fun when you get back that big, expensive print and find you have missed a spot: even small or relatively faint spots glare out at you once you know they are there.
Honestly, I'm not a fan of the one-click scenarios.
Whether Capture One will release one is up to them, but having used the Lightroom function extensively, I must say I don't like how blunt of a tool it is. Indeed, I've seen the Lightroom tool expose "spots" that weren't actual spots, and on the other hand, sometimes "hide" them in certain situations. Those individual sliders can, and should, be adjusted to suit the image (high ISO at night, low contrast, over-exposed, etc etc). The little tweaks can make finding spots easier or harder, so a blanket tool can't entirely take that into consideration.
The option of just setting the layer as a style and applying it to other images means you have, essentially, a two-click Capture One option in future - but more importantly, it's then possible to be further fine-tuned based on the image in question.
And yes - the killer "oh crap" moment when you spot a tiny blemish on a huge print is just cruel... ;-)
@Paul Reiffer. Thank you for the reply. The Lightroom visualisation is not one click, the density is variable. Typically I use it at around 70% opacity on fit-to-screen view to see the worst spots, deal with them, then move up to 100% density to deal with the harder to see ones, before going over the image at 100% size view. Usually it is necessary to drop the opacity of the visualisation when checking at 100% size view. The visualisation tool often does not show up spots well in textured areas such as clouds, so I use a method similar to yours as well, which is to examine the image with dehaze pushed up to 100%. All too often, one method shows up spots that the other does not. The tools are complementary, not alternatives. C1 does not have one click dehaze either, although you can get close to it using the tools presently available, but there is no way of emulating the Lightroom threshold-type visualisation. For my use, I could not move over to C1 without the equivalent of Lightroom’s visualisation, it is too fundamental to my workflow for full quality assurance, which is a great pity because I would like to do this.
Here you have an script that do all these steps automatically
tell application "Capture One 20"
tell layers of primary variant
-- create a new layer named dehazeLayer
set discoverSpots to make new layer with properties {name:"discoverSpots", kind:adjustment, opacity:100} at end
tell discoverSpots
fill mask
end tell
-- create a new layer named Heal Spots
set healSpots to make new layer with properties {name:"healSpots", kind:heal, opacity:100} at end
tell adjustments of discoverSpots
set clarity amount to 65
set clarity method to punch
set clarity structure to 65
set contrast to 50
set brightness to -34
set highlight recovery to 100
set saturation to -63
set shadow recovery to 100
end tell
end tell
end tell
That's one way, Cornellana - you could also save that adjustment setup as a User Style. :-)
Here's how to do that: czcams.com/video/RJR5MCXwxPA/video.html
@Not Disclosed (?!)
So, what you've just said is that the Lightroom tool isn't actually sufficient on its own! - [quote] "The (Lightroom) visualisation tool often does not show up spots well in textured areas such as clouds, so I use a method similar to yours as well, which is to examine the image with dehaze pushed up to 100%"
Meaning - you're going to end up using a similar method in Lightroom as I'd suggest using in C1 anyway. Hence I don't understand why you feel you need the pointless visualisation tool, if you're going to have to go over the entire image with that secondary process anyway.
Why not just start with that process, and get it 100% right (catching ALL dust spots) from the beginning?
BUT - that said, if you feel Lightroom is the best tool for your workflow, then genuinely, stick with it. I have no interest in sales ;-)