I own a small forestry business, I main 2 of these saws nearly every day for about 4 years and they both run like brand new even after being abused daily with 0 maintenance, aside from cleaning the air filter. I bought mine from the dealer, they were already tuned fairly well. Worth every penny, the only issue I had was the back end of the side covers bar adjustment screw breaking out of its plastic, but it still works fine, and both saws wear out their anti-vibration spring fairly quickly, which is not a big deal its only $10 for a replacement set
Husky really missed the mark with the 120 Mk II. I swear I spend more time and fuel adjusting my carb than I do cutting wood. The saw runs great for a while, and then it starts bogging under load and idling erratically. Constantly tweaking the carb settings in the field just to keep the thing running. It makes me wonder if the jets are getting rattled out of adjustment by the vibrations of the saw. My no-name Chinese chainsaw has been far more reliable.
Similar experience. I had a Stihl for some years and died, so I thought I would give Husky 120 a try. It had some decent reviews online. First time I ran it, it was great. Second time was like it wanted to die. Now, it won't start at all no matter how much I mess with it.
The problem are the crank seals, they are a garbage design and last nothing, pretty much junk saws, cinese saws atleast last some years of you take care, these Husqvarna-poulan are Simply trash
the jets wont move at all on account of the springs, are you sure the carb isn't just dirty, if not, try buying a new one you might have gotten a defect. The erratic idling does sound like a seal problem, depends on how severe it is, try spraying carb cleaner behind the clutch while its running, and if it reacts to that it means you have worn out seals that need to be replaced
@@garbagecan6969 Thank you. My issue actually seems to be related to the gas tank not venting properly. The saw runs great for a few minutes until hot, then starts losing power and wanting to die in the cut. If I open and close the gas cap, within seconds it returns to normal and runs great for another minute or so. When I first got the saw, I was constantly adjusting the carb to compensate for a fueling issue that was actually caused by a vacuum in the gas tank. Now i just have to figure out how to replace or improve the tank vent.
100% never seen a new 1 yet that didnt bog down or cut out. Not a bad saw after few tweeks. The 135 mark ii is your better bet though 👍 mines been decent got ton of hours on it n still solid, fair ripper for 2.2hp
@@doctorlefthandthread yeah it's been a decent little saw 👍 Not long got myself a 565 after a load of research, absolutely chuffed with it awesome all rounder, running a 24" tsumura light bar at the minute just goes through anything.
Great vid. My 120 was working fine but now after a few months in storage it has the fault you describe. Starts fine but dies when you try to rev the engine flat out. Do you think this adjustment will help or do I need to strip and clean the carb?
I think adjustment will sort it. adjust the high jet probably anticlockwise with the engine running until it revs up without dying out. I adjusted one today that had thus issue.
A question about this particular saw, are uou meant to grease the bar? I have one and it does have a tiny hole in the bar where tye one for greasing would normally be but I have heard that most new saws don't require you to grease the actual bar
No if you have chain oil in it that's enough you can test if it's oiling the chain by holding the saw when it's running a couple if inches above a piece of paper. If it starts to wet the paper in a line it's fine
Another question. Lets say you have run a saw for a few weeks, typical saw like this one, qnd you are putting it away and prob wont use it for a few months, should you take the chain and bar off and clean it all out?
the best way to adjust your screws is to let the saw idle, then turn the idle screw in until the chain starts moving, then back it out until it stops. From there you can properly adjust the low idle screw by turning it out until the saw starts to bog from too much fuel, then turn it back in until your throttle response is perfect. Now you can adjust the high speed screw by holding down the throttle and turning it out until that bogs too, then turn it back in one full turn. Reset the idle screw so the chain doesn't move, but its still high enough that the saw wont die on you when you let go of the trigger. Try cutting some wood, if the saw dies that probably means your idle, or low speed screw is giving too much gas or not enough. If it feels weak or dies at high rpm, adjust the high idle screw until it cuts good. DONT TURN EITHER SPEED SCREWS TOO FAR CLOCKWISE AND LEAN IT OUT, YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR SAW BY NOT GIVING THE BEARINGS ENOUGH OIL AND FUEL MIX. For the high speed screw you want to make the saw fast, but not too fast, it should sound kind of groggy, that means its getting more fuel, and subsequently more lubrication for all the bearings and piston rings If you are still having problems, you might want to pull apart your carb and clean it, clean out the fuel filter, put brand new gas mix, make sure its the exact ratio it needs to be, and if all that fails, do a drop test to check the compression on your saw, you should be able to hold it by the recoil cord with one hand while it slowly falls to the ground, if it falls at free fall speed, you need a new head gasket or a new head and piston
I own a small forestry business, I main 2 of these saws nearly every day for about 4 years and they both run like brand new even after being abused daily with 0 maintenance, aside from cleaning the air filter. I bought mine from the dealer, they were already tuned fairly well.
Worth every penny, the only issue I had was the back end of the side covers bar adjustment screw breaking out of its plastic, but it still works fine, and both saws wear out their anti-vibration spring fairly quickly, which is not a big deal its only $10 for a replacement set
That's great
I jus broke the plastic piece from the tensioner , how did you fix yours
Runs fine here. The bar adjust sucks though
Husky really missed the mark with the 120 Mk II. I swear I spend more time and fuel adjusting my carb than I do cutting wood. The saw runs great for a while, and then it starts bogging under load and idling erratically. Constantly tweaking the carb settings in the field just to keep the thing running. It makes me wonder if the jets are getting rattled out of adjustment by the vibrations of the saw. My no-name Chinese chainsaw has been far more reliable.
Too right man the other models don't mess around the same
Similar experience. I had a Stihl for some years and died, so I thought I would give Husky 120 a try. It had some decent reviews online. First time I ran it, it was great. Second time was like it wanted to die. Now, it won't start at all no matter how much I mess with it.
The problem are the crank seals, they are a garbage design and last nothing, pretty much junk saws, cinese saws atleast last some years of you take care, these Husqvarna-poulan are Simply trash
the jets wont move at all on account of the springs, are you sure the carb isn't just dirty, if not, try buying a new one you might have gotten a defect. The erratic idling does sound like a seal problem, depends on how severe it is, try spraying carb cleaner behind the clutch while its running, and if it reacts to that it means you have worn out seals that need to be replaced
@@garbagecan6969 Thank you. My issue actually seems to be related to the gas tank not venting properly. The saw runs great for a few minutes until hot, then starts losing power and wanting to die in the cut. If I open and close the gas cap, within seconds it returns to normal and runs great for another minute or so. When I first got the saw, I was constantly adjusting the carb to compensate for a fueling issue that was actually caused by a vacuum in the gas tank. Now i just have to figure out how to replace or improve the tank vent.
100% never seen a new 1 yet that didnt bog down or cut out. Not a bad saw after few tweeks. The 135 mark ii is your better bet though 👍 mines been decent got ton of hours on it n still solid, fair ripper for 2.2hp
135 is worth the extra money
@@doctorlefthandthread yeah it's been a decent little saw 👍
Not long got myself a 565 after a load of research, absolutely chuffed with it awesome all rounder, running a 24" tsumura light bar at the minute just goes through anything.
Great vid. My 120 was working fine but now after a few months in storage it has the fault you describe. Starts fine but dies when you try to rev the engine flat out.
Do you think this adjustment will help or do I need to strip and clean the carb?
I think adjustment will sort it. adjust the high jet probably anticlockwise with the engine running until it revs up without dying out. I adjusted one today that had thus issue.
Do you happen to know what size this needs to be
A question about this particular saw, are uou meant to grease the bar? I have one and it does have a tiny hole in the bar where tye one for greasing would normally be but I have heard that most new saws don't require you to grease the actual bar
No if you have chain oil in it that's enough you can test if it's oiling the chain by holding the saw when it's running a couple if inches above a piece of paper. If it starts to wet the paper in a line it's fine
Thanks for thw comment
@@jayuppercase3398 no trouble at all
Another question.
Lets say you have run a saw for a few weeks, typical saw like this one, qnd you are putting it away and prob wont use it for a few months, should you take the chain and bar off and clean it all out?
People don't do it but cleaning it would do no harm
the best way to adjust your screws is to let the saw idle, then turn the idle screw in until the chain starts moving, then back it out until it stops.
From there you can properly adjust the low idle screw by turning it out until the saw starts to bog from too much fuel, then turn it back in until your throttle response is perfect.
Now you can adjust the high speed screw by holding down the throttle and turning it out until that bogs too, then turn it back in one full turn.
Reset the idle screw so the chain doesn't move, but its still high enough that the saw wont die on you when you let go of the trigger.
Try cutting some wood, if the saw dies that probably means your idle, or low speed screw is giving too much gas or not enough.
If it feels weak or dies at high rpm, adjust the high idle screw until it cuts good. DONT TURN EITHER SPEED SCREWS TOO FAR CLOCKWISE AND LEAN IT OUT, YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR SAW BY NOT GIVING THE BEARINGS ENOUGH OIL AND FUEL MIX.
For the high speed screw you want to make the saw fast, but not too fast, it should sound kind of groggy, that means its getting more fuel, and subsequently more lubrication for all the bearings and piston rings
If you are still having problems, you might want to pull apart your carb and clean it, clean out the fuel filter, put brand new gas mix, make sure its the exact ratio it needs to be, and if all that fails, do a drop test to check the compression on your saw, you should be able to hold it by the recoil cord with one hand while it slowly falls to the ground, if it falls at free fall speed, you need a new head gasket or a new head and piston
Husky tells you all this and proper troublshooting how to adjust for elevation etc 🙄 storing it properly will avoid this 90% of the time