HOW TO DIAGNOSE A FAULTY EBIKE BATTERY
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- THE BMS USED IN THE VIDEO
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You'll fathom it out Andy. You've come a long way with this build. The force is strong with you :)
Still loving the videos Andy. Most of the time i haven't got a clue what your on about due to the complex nature out the subject matter, but you are always so enthusiastic and do a great job out dumbing things down for the masses. Keep up the good work!😊
Couldn't of put that analysis better Myself Andrew. Confusing while gripping! It's Andy's delivery, I'd actually watch him cut the grass..... in fact, I have!🤔🤘
This will be interesting to watch!
People fix these batteries from old cells which makes a dodgy cell quite possible but to see if we can find a problem in a newish? pack has peaked my interest.
Look up 20ah EIG pouch cells. You can put them together like lego with the bus bar system it uses, its super easy to build and theres normally plenty available on Ebay. They put out tons of juice and they are cheap for what they can do. Although they are a bit bigger than a 18660 pack in terms of wh per volume. I have a 23s 96v pack 20ah build using them and I am pulling 250 amps from them, although they are rated to 200 amp for 10 seconds, they can just handle 250 so long as there warmed up. My battery build cost about 450 quid if you include the 300 amp ANT BMS. Or £360 for 25 cells and the bus bars.
Yea that's the problem I've got when I use my throttle on my ebike my battery automatically shuts itself off this must be the BMS problem as you say or some sort of faulty battery cell. The company I bought it from has asked me to get a multimeter to check. Hopefully I can get it sorted soon as it's just under the 1 year warranty for the battery.
I had a problem when making a custom 20s 2p lipo battery. Everytime i charged cell 20 used jump up to 4.2vabd trigger ovp and when full throttle just go below 3v luckily i was still testing everything out and didn't seal up the battery and bms and it was just one cell where had a dent in it. I replaced both cells as it was in a 2p configuration and now it works fine. Anyone building a battery i highly reccomend the 8-20s 300a ant bms for £55 on Aliexpress with vbms its probably the best bms without spending over £200+
I wonder if this is what is happening to mine. I bought a Panasonic cells battery 52v 13ah. I'll ride the bike for 10 miles or so, let it rest, say its on upper 90's %, try another 10 miles and it shuts down on me. I'll let it rest, turn back on, and it'll say its 40's % but won't even do a mile after that. Does that sound like this? A bad battery cell in the block? Any way a regular guy like me can open it, find out which it/they is/are, remove, and either replace or go without it? Especially since its a 52v and if its only 1, it will be a 48v.
It's actually like your bike life is a few months ahead of mine, had this exact issue, turns out it was a loose cell, the spot weld didn't hold, it was the most bottom cell of a triangular pack and just took a beating, did some open heart surgery and swapped out the cells and now it's back to within about 10mv. Brought my 52v 30ah down to 15ah of usable power 1 out 126 cells gone and it Crippled the battery.
I have a shark jumbo 52v 20ah battery. It shows draining indication when throttles on after a long ride so it indicates that I have a small bit of power left. It use to drain down to 50% overall without throttle before dying when I’d throttle it down to 10% but now it cuts out just after draining indication and it’s showing a 100% and when throttle drain it down to 80% It cuts out then comes on again but won’t drain anymore without cutting out. Hope battery hasn’t got too damaged as it keeps charge till draining indication then cuts off. I did ride without lock on by mistake and it flew off the bike and went on concrete. So gutted. Has been working ok just the last reserve to get back juice not powering. I hope I can repair this easily. Seems to be charging ok no heat coming from case. Haha
I watch all your videos you are an inspiration mate.
I want to take my battery out of its case to fit it on my fulls sus how would I do this and would it be safe
Thats funny, Tony from Vortecks has the same problem with Cell 6 on his battery. Could it be a problem with the BMS, if you are both using the same BMS.
Great vid andy please keep me entertained these x few weeks just been put down to 3 day week mortage car and keeping kids happy payments is not happening crapping myself at moment all the best stay safe
Thanks mate, try not to worry. I think these are exceptional circumstances so hopefully there will be some workarounds.
Nice set up bro. How long you been producing, I thought i was bad ass with my apple imac, Akia mpk mini, An logic pro 10, lol, i been using studio's for years, Started with cuebase 5 lol, I prefer too use reason tho, i am learning logic 10, An damn it is complicated compared too reason, I am thinking of buying reason 11, As i know how too use reason, I am finding logic time consuming having too learn it as well, Any tip's, lol, But yeah you got some nice keyboards there mate, Can see you loves your music making....................
What tunes have you released????
Guys, I’m a noob to these ebikes and not that long ago I purchased a folding e bike called URBAN RIDER” from Logan or some site that sells everything. Anyways I had it for about two months or so then one day I switched on the key and the lights and everything else go on but the battery is not charging no matter what I did to it and to make matters worse, they didn’t even want anything to do with it and all I wanted was to buy a replacement but that was also fruitless so my question is, how do I find out what type of battery it is and do every e bike battery have its own replacement or is there a universal for different shapes of e bikes? Any help would be so much appreciated, if u know of a good handy electrician please let me know. I brought it for my nephew and now unchangeable.
I've got 52 v battery samsung cells phaserunner at 50 amps think it's 40 amp bms do I need new battery or bms was getting hot wen ride in hard losing range asseel
Just been watching the latest video from vortex just now who builds E-Bikes as you know I think he did the software for your phone if I remember rightly and he has a problem with cell 6 just wondered if it was a coincidence or has the software got a bug just thought I would let you know just in case the battery is fine. Don't want you stripping your battery down if it's the software that's wrong some how. Hope this helps.
That’s an interesting point, I might test at the connector going into the BMS.
@@andykirby That sounds like a good idea.
andy kirby what was the problem with that cell group? I have build a battery with a smart bms and I have issue with one cell group and every others are perfectly balanced . The problem is that one cell group has dropped instantly 50mv and I have suspicions about a bug in the bms . Probably i will open the battery and check the voltage manually to double check. If is inaccurate bms reading can be dangerous when the cellgroup reach 4.20and in reality is 4,23 . Maybe I need calibration and manually measure the cells and write the values in bms calibration menu.
I can’t wait to see the strip down and diagnoses.
Just new to ebikes got my first kit going to day and the battery keeps cutting out fully changed but keeps going when the wheel is up from the ground it was going grand for a bit at first.
Is it the battery or the BMS? Tony Vortrecks had a similar issue recently.
i had that happen with mine on my liitokala cells one cell in my 7 cell string was bad causing the rest of cells to go wonky. Glad i ordered 5 extra cells just in case lol
Hi Andy, a friend of mine has a e-glide scooter. And when he pushes off the scooter turns off (powers down) after 5 seconds. We are thinking the battery is at fault?
Could be. Turn the scooter upside down and push the wheel to get it going, see if it keeps spinning with no load (heavy person on it) if it does then the battery has probably gone weak.
@@andykirby it still cuts out upside down. Had multi meter hooked up as well. The volts dropped, where I thought it would stay at 36 volts
What is that massive charger you are using in video?
Ahhhh, would this high voltage cell cut off the charging? As in the bms reads the highest voltage cell and determines that the battery pack is fully charged when that cell reaches its maximum capacity? I ask because I have built a 72v battery and it only charges to 76v (obviously it should go to 84v) would this be the cause of this? 1 parallel group telling the charger that the battery is fully charged?
Hi, they will charge equally across all of them.
regardless the brand there is always gonna be a dodgy unit sold onto the market im afraid ,lithium cells are so tightly packed just one spec of carbon leak onto the opposite surface inside that cell is gonna slowly ruin it over time
Soo the very first 14s7p HG2 Battery back I made 3 years ago was really hard to make and is unreliable ? oh wait, it was fairly easy to make & has never missed a beat whilst being used for hard Mountain Bike thrashings ! ;)
I think some spotwelds may be loos
Bluetooth bms for everyone ??
That app things brilliant
Cool love it thanks.
Exactly what happened with my battery so i sent it to Jimmy to work his wonders
who's jimmy because i'm having problems too
you remember what i said about how you built that battery? No wonder that its faulty now.
why not build a battery pack with removable cells ??
problem solved.
Mate help
Very interesting indeed. I have an issue where my (bought) ebike won't 'stay' on H. Its fine on low/eco setting but when I click onto Med or High mode it clicks off. Watching this video of yours makes me think it could be a cell or 2 failing under load. What do you think? Here is a link to the video showing the issue....I'd really appreciate your opinion on this. czcams.com/video/xaqGqgWxC6o/video.html
You left is hanging dude. Show us how you fixed it.
I didn’t yet😁
It's actually like your bike life is a few months ahead of mine, had this exact issue, turns out it was a loose cell, the spot weld didn't hold, it was the most bottom cell of a triangular pack and just took a beating, did some open heart surgery and swapped out the cells and now it's back to within about 10mv. Brought my 52v 30ah down to 15ah of usable power 1 out 126 cells gone and it Crippled the battery.