Part 2: Cheap refrigerant gauges R1234YF & R134a EBAY & AMAZON are they any GOOD?
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 12. 2019
- This is part 2
I test the gauges brand new out of the box trying to see if the can pass a deep vacuum and hold under 500 microns (much lower and precise measurement for vacuum).
2ed: test using high pressure dry nitrogen @ 250 PSI.
using Fieldpiece manifold refrigerant gauges SM480V as a bench mark to compare both pressure and vacuum down to the low micron levels. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I been learning about AC and I just learned a lot for just this video thanks man
That’s what these videos are for if somebody learns some thing for my videos then I have done my job. Thank you.
Holy crap, so many different tools I'm geekn out over here! I had no idea! Thank you so much for these videos!
Lol 😂 And you’re lucky I’m the one buying all the different manufacturers tools multiples of the same tool and then testing amount over years not just one time like some of the other guys and videos. And then through many hundreds and many thousands of uses on vehicles I get to tell you the ones that are durable and reliable and accurate so you don’t have to waste your money making a mistake.
I am a tool geek a tool whore 😍 love good tools.
@@coldfinger459sub0 SAME! I love a good tool and will shill it till I'm blue in the face! Could you drop the part numbers of the testo set and the digital meter you use? I'd like to check them out and see if I can swing adding these beasts to my tool box. I want to have the best tools I can get my hands on and do the job right! I've gone through HVAC training in college but could never gather the funds to afford such amazing tools till now.
I work in IT and let me tell you, it makes the WORLD of a difference having the right test and diagnostic equipment to find issues in the network, and to generate reports for customers to see in black in white that this is what is wrong and this is what is needed to fix the issue.
3:15 u can remove these white teflon seals, and easy swap to black neopran seal
Great information thanks for sharing and thanks for helping trade schools we need to encourage them
if you have any recommendations on types of ac tools,ac oils, leak detect-ant , UV trace dyes, UV lights or procedures you would like to see feel free to give suggestions. I will eventually get to all topics. This is my self training and testing to learn to use CZcams , sound, lighting and using camera eventually adding and using video and sound editing software before starting a my professional CZcams Chanel using my company business name.
Nice video man. Good info.
What would you recommend for a a/c oring assortment set for vehicle ac hoses? I got a cheap set amazon, wondering if they might not last now.. not installed yet.
Santek has very large assortment of O-rings
If you go to ranshu’s website, you’ll be able to find them
Ranshu has a large mobile automotive, air conditioning, supplier of parts and tools .
Hi Tom! I have an older snap-on gauge set (ACT9575). The gauges need to be replaced as the glycerin leaked out. The hose seals may also need to be changed out considering its age. Is it even worth it to repair it or am I better off getting a new gauge set? My purpose of use is for DIY. THANK YOU.
If you are doing yourself, just stick with the gauges you already have.
You don’t have to get snap on glycerin filled gauges
You can order just a heads all by themselves go to yellow jacket website . Orders some new glycerin filled gauges and a package of new seals.
And the new packing seals or piston assembly seals that are inside the gauge that attached to the knobs .
You can completely rebuild your set
@@coldfinger459sub0
Thank you for those words of wisdom, Tom.
Thanks a lot for the information regarding cps/lux. I have an old r134 charging “machine”/cart with a 5way manifold that looks to be same brand as your cps/lux (same body style, knobs etc). This should help me source a rebuild kit for the diaphram valves. Do you know who else sold these rebranded lux manifolds?
Ulf Hesselager Johansen All I know when I was in China sourcing tools and supplies the manufacturer representative said they branded them under many different brands throughout the world did not give me any specific names. Even if you could not find the exact original Teflon diaphragm seal that’s located inside. Teflon is very soft if you got a bigger one you could trim it down to size. Because the only ceiling surface is on the center of the face that you would not be disturbing if you were just trimming down a circumference of a circle to a smaller size. Some of the newer seals the manufactures started using a nylon material that is much stronger it takes a little more to tighten to make a seal but they don’t get damage so easily. I remember my early Testo gauges and my Fieldpiece gauges use Teflon at first and then later in the years because probably warranty issues and customer complaints they were having problems with people who would over tighten the seals and damage them and complain of leaks but it was caused by the customers lack of knowledge of the type of materials being used as the ceiling surface and they would crank down on the knobs and damage them. The other problem was a dirty system with the compressor that was coming apart with little metal flakes or a burned out system and some of the refrigerant with metal particles would go up back to your gauges across the faces of the seals and when you were tighten them down they would impregnate them selves into the face of the surface seal causing a slight leakage and damaging the face .
t lech, Thanks and yes, it is exactly what has happened! A piece of metal was embedded in the teflon. So far it helped scraping it out and rotating the diaphram. I thought about cutting a new piece of ptfe or other plastic. Since you also suggest it, I will give it a try. Mylar/PET will be the first to be tested, as I have that at hand in the correct thickness.
Tom Lech, Which capacity vacuum pump should I buy to Vacuum the Air conditioner for my Toyota Yaris 2010?,
I 've replaced the Condenser and A/C compressor.
If you’re doing this for yourself, do it yourself at home?
You don’t need a fancy expensive big vacuum pump don’t waste your money if this is something that you’re almost never going to do .
You could get a two CFM vacuum pump, but just make sure it is what it’s called a two stage vacuum pump rated for 50 µm or below
And because you have all the Time in the world if you’re doing it just for yourself not for business, you could leave it on the vacuum pump overnight. All you can do is do a better job at lowering the moisture content in the system getting a deeper vacuum. .
@@coldfinger459sub0 Thank you so much for the information I appreciate it. When I leave the Vacuum pump overnight should I leave the vacuum pump on or off?
@@ClintonSnow on
@@coldfinger459sub0 Ok
Forget the gauges. Weigh the charge in. Cars have a tag showing how much refrigerant the system holds. Cheap postage scale and you are off and running. Gauges, not if they will leak and fail but when. Need rebuilding and cleaning out with alcohol. BUT it sure is nice to see some pressures.
Don’t need pressures just temperatures. Clamp on Bluetooth Thermistor.
Or use my dad‘s old Simpson meter that had four wired thermistor. Old school late 1950s early 60s that was the first way my dad taught me at 12 years old.
They make cheap tripods for your camera or maybe you can buy a good tripod so you can work and film better , lol , anyway , i just bought that same gauge set , waiting for the R1234yf couplers , good to know about the plastic inserts .I had a nice A/C machine from snap on but sold it when i closed my shop. Now as a retired mechanic I find too many people still bugging me to help them out ,( and I dont mind the cash) , my Mac gauges will stay R134A , next purchase will be a vac pump to do work properly
I have three tripods in this room one big nice camera one and two little cheap iPod ones I really take up the time to set them up.
Good old yellow jacket or Robinair vacuum pump is good enough for side work occasionally.
NAVAC Makes a really good one that has a micron gauge built into it but it’s not cheap.
Could you provide the manufacturer on the R1234YF gauge? Is it MasterCool, SanTech, or other?
I don’t remember the name and I gave those gauges away. Many gauges on Harbor freight Amazon and eBay are manufactured by just a few Chinese manufacturers and they slap different name labels on them. They will change the knobs style or color a little bit to make them look different. They will sometimes even change the pressure gauges on the manifold and make them look different. Every day from 6:30 to 7:30 AM to 630 to 7:30 PM I’m constantly running from mechanical shop or body shop who try to buy all these different brands of cheap gauges. I’ve never seen one of them that actually can pass a high-pressure nitrogen test or extended deep vacuum decay test. In shops I will grab their gauges they use and hook them up in parallel with my gauges and show the technician or owner often how in accurate they’re high side and low side readings are. Will often find vacuum gauge needle saying they’re pulling 30 inches of vacuum when in reality they’re only pulling 27 inches or 28 inches vacuum.
@@coldfinger459sub0 I fully appreciate your skillset and testing on these gauge sets. However, for the novice who is simply just trying to recharge his A/C system on his late-model vehicle, I am assuming that a quick 30 minute vacuum test, and another 30 minute vacuum hold leak test using a Mastercool 1234YF gauge set would do the job. Your thoughts?
Gene P. Yes for a do it yourself person that’s what I would do but first test the gauge set itself. Hook up the gate set to your car but do not screw down the fittings. Turn on your vacuum pump for one hour just on the gauges and hoses all by them self. Then valve off your vacuum and let it stand for 30 minutes and see if your gauges can hold. If so turn down your valve depressors screw them in and do your job
@@coldfinger459sub0 Great advice, I just got a Mastercool 1234 set. What type of vacuum do you recommend? Is a cheap Harbor Freight vacuum good enough for an hour's job?
Gene P. For do it yourself person just doing one or two cars the master cool gauges are fine. It’s just something you would never want to use on a daily basis in a professional setting.
Many mechanical shops do not even perform Rio vacuum decay task and if you have to somehow they wouldn’t even know. Majority of the shops don’t even know what dry nitrogen is and what it’s used for they’re totally clueless. And say maybe those 5% that do you know that you can use dry nitrogen for pressure testing they don’t own the proper equipment to accurately perform the test. I just go through the motions and let it fly and say it’s good. Unless it’s really bad and it’s obvious and they could see it or hear it.
A cheap harbor freight vacuum pump will do you good as they do it yourself person for your own few vehicles. Just remember to add the vacuum pump oil to it when you get it read the instructions in the box. Many people don’t know you have to add oil to the pump they take it directly out of the box dry plug it in and burn it out don’t make that mistake.
Stick to the title, dude 😀
Basically did and at the end gave a comparison why you would not use cheap Chinese gauges and use Bluetooth data recording transducers and thermisters instead of cheap Chinese analog gauges.