Countyline Tiller Does Better Than Expected
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2021
- The 6 foot Countyline tiller we purchased recently get used on our larger-for-2021 sunflower patch. I'll also try it on some uncultivated soil to see how well (and how deep) its able to till.
In this video I'm preparing the soil for our 2021 sunflower patch for u-pick flowers. - Jak na to + styl
I have 5 years on mine with no problems , with hard flash soil
Wood chips will tie up some nitrogen. Not all, but enough.
If you want to help drainage and pierce the hardpan, plant tillage radishes in the fall. The rows should be perpendicular to the surface water flow. Did it to my clay ground and helped immensely. Good luck.
We actually did radish this last fall for the first time and had OK results. I'll plan on doing it again in the future.
I’m still amazed that you make revenue from those flowers. Well done
After watching a number of your videos, a thought came to mind. "It's about the journey and not just the destination." Sure, we want our dreams to come true but enjoying the process is huge. You seem to be enjoying yourself, for the most part. Haha
its absolutely about the journey! Thanks
That county line stuff really does well especially considering the price point.
I use to use a walk along rear tine tiller it took a long time to till your garden that is for sure
The tiller seems to be working very well for you.
its doing great so far!
Looks like it does a good job I know I have a Ford 3000 tractor and a 6 foot tiller it does a good job
It will sure till it up I have a Ford 3000 diesel tractor with a 6 foot tiller it does a good job
I have a 6’ county line tiller. Real pain in the butt hooking it up to the tractor. The pto is especially difficult. Has the little push button with a spring system.
I wonder if the wood chips being tilled under will rob nitrogen?
Phil,
We watched your tractor video about how you could have probably gone with the L2501. We are looking to get our first tractor. L2501 vs L3901. Not sure which one to get. I’m thinking that the L3901 would be better (probably more tractor than we need most of the time but) because it has more power when/if I do need it. the L2501 wouldnt pull that country line due to PTO Hp reqs. I just don’t know what I’ll need. We are new and it’s cheaper to get a slightly bigger tractor now vs upgrading later. Thoughts?
you're right. when I made that video, the tiller wasn't in the picture. I have an old 50hp tractor that came with my farm, so that kind of reinforces my point I could have gotten a smaller tractor and been fine. I would just run the tiller on the old 50hp machine. If you need (or think you might need) the pto HP, then get the more powerful machine.
TSC County Line is manufactured by various manufacturers. Your unit is actually a Tarter. My dad purchased one 10-15 years ago made by King Kutter.
Is County Line made by King Kutter? That tilled up really nice 👍! Great video!
its made by tarter. I'm pleased with it so far. A couples passes in the sod and it did real good.
County line kicks ass and takes names. Its all in the weight my 48 " weighs 600 + lb. I could rototill a air plane . Or a cow.
Looks like the woodchips worked out well. I couldn't tell if the tiller is forward or reverse tine?
Hey before you filled it with oil did you look at the gears and seals they tend to be rusty in some cases and will develop issues sooner than it should.
It's forward you can tell by the starting point
I see that, around the 2:23 mark. I was watching on my phone so couldn't tell for sure until I got on the computer
yeah, its forward, but apparently it can be reversed should I ever want to do that.
how does the sunshade on your tractor work for you?
I like it a lot. It really helps in the summer
What's the HP of your tractor?
Do you run your tractor in Low gear or can you run it in Medium gear when using thr rototiller?
Med but don't put foot to the floor most of the time. Low gear to the floor works well if you don't want to think about speed.
@@WoodsTreeFarm thank you dor the reply, I just bought a 6ft for my 40hp compact tractor yesterday and am trying to learn before I test it out!
What quick hitch brand are you using?
Harbor freight
Disregard negative snarky comments, the wood chips only tie up the nitrogen for an amout of time then it becomes available, they also dont consider the volume of soil and the amount of wood chip
Did you check the gear box before filling it with oil?
I've seen those complaints online about moisture and corrosion in the gearboxes. I didn't bother disassembling - just oiled it up and got to work.
@@WoodsTreeFarm you're lucky to get new tiller seems to be a hot commodity
The chemical effect will be affected whether the mulch is chewed up or not. Though you will spend up their finishing the breakdown process by chewing it up.
Boy, looking at that soil have you thought about spending about two-three years planting green manure/cover crops one right after the other starting the prior fall with oats, annual rye, clover, alfalfa, sugar beets, turnips whatever grows in your area over the winter, then plowed under, wait a few weeks, plant with peas in the spring letting them get to Max foliage volume right at bloom stage, let the bees work it a week or two , and till prior to producing peas, then plant beans, any type of turnips, sugar beets again when in full foliage till again, and then plant buckwheat and till in every 6-8 weeks about a week after it starts blooming to let the bees work it. Come late summer after your last crop of buckwheat, plant clover tall, winter oats, annual rye, whatever will grow well wherever you are located including sugar beets, turnips, etc as these will grow down and break up the soil. Let them grown and come January before the ground freezes, if you can get it, spread the nicest greenest premium tested alfalfa hay (no herbicides preferably or organic) as used for horses or dairy cattle about 12” deep when fluffed out over the ground and then let it sit all winter. Do not use any grass hay or blend (especially fescue) or you will regret it due to seed. You want the highest value alfalfa, not rained on, weedy, etc - it’s not cheap unless you live in alfalfa territory (Utah, upper NY, Canada, maybe Pa). The worms will be able to work the soil through the winter eating the green mulched clover, annual rye, winter or spring oats, turnips, etc. Leave it along come spring until you can work the soil and then plow or till of course letting it sit for a couple of weeks before reseeding and staring the prior year process over. Come the second fall, after last till and wait, plant clover. Come spring, drill sunflower seed or whatever and don’t disturb the clover. It will help feed the plants, continue breaking up the ground (roots can go down 6-8 and up to 15’ on some varieties). It will shade the soil. There are plenty of good articles and books on green or cover cropping, green manures. to get more details. But I can tell you it will improve your soil. And use organic type fertilizers like Espoma - call them for bulk prices. Why - because they have gypsum for calcium, vital to help with rot, etc and for plants in general, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, and lots of good thing for the soil to help. Organic products whether you use single ingredients or alfalfa pellets etc take about 2-3 years to see the benefit but after using for about 5 years along with a fall cover crop and a spring one while waiting for temps to warm enough to plant ornamentals that you almost don’t need to use fertilizer. You might if you plant extensively all through the season but try to use as much of Espoma as possible. I had a place that the soil was horrible, and after getting it tested and getting the pH, etc right - started the cover cropping etc and couldn’t believe the difference in awful soil that was mucky, took til June/July to dry up. The gypsum really helped because of the calcium it supplies, but also it helped the ground drain. The alfalfa hay really helped with nutrients, and served as mulch to keep the worms working all winter. I had been using dolomite lime, and apparently was making my heavy clay soil muckier due to the magnesium..didn’t need magnesium but it was locked up. So I did monthly sprays of magnesium that the plants used directly if the plants showed issues. My soil was wet half the year, and then come June, July etc it was like someone poured concrete. After doing basically what I said above, it became so much better, rich and dark, dried out better due to the green compost, and the alfalfa. The clover really helped keep the weeds down. Depending on the height of what you are planting determines in final year whether you use tall red clover, or dutch clover. The entire environment is helped from the soil to the bees working the clover, buckwheat, even the peas and beans. You don’t want any of these (except the clover) to start to seed though. The biggest reason is because when the plants go to seed, the green manure volume goes down, the seed formation tells the plant it’s over for the year and the foliage volume drops fast not giving you as much to work into the soil which is where you need it not dried out on top.
Also on the top grade alfalfa, it’s the green leaves that’s the gold, stems are good to but it’s the nutrients in those tiny little leaves. In hauling, cover so as not to have all of them blown off. If you know someone with a big grinder like is used for grinding up feed stock for cattle - that would be good, have it ground, and dumped and then use tractor wagons down the area pitching on planting beds. It will work in better come spring though alfalfa hay isn’t like grass hay - it’s crumbly and breaks up easy and works it easy. I just used a spade fork and a mantis tiller for my smaller beds. Buckwheat turns over so easy. Don’t use straw (ties up nitrogen and other nutrients too though not as long as wood products. And don’t let that alfalfa get rained on or all the nutrients will go in the ground right where it sits, you will lose the leaves, not in the garden area.
And I would keep wood mulch off it. I don’t want bark anyway but think about it - most local mulch comes from people taking down diseased trees, landscapers debris which could have long acting herbicides, fungicides, and insecticides in it. I have even seen pallets and wood from furniture and building of houses, etc including treated - being ground up for the compost and mulch to be delivered to homeowners. Some is dyed to make folks think it’s aged, I have seen it but I won’t mention where. And bagged is too expensive plus it’s the same - if it’s wood and bark, it goes in. They just tell you not suitable for vegetables.
Personally I don’t want to add it to my soil because I don’t know what I might want to plant in the area in the future, or even someone else.
Biggest thing is to get the soil tested before starting. pH must be right when you start.
Thanks for the wealth of information. We're just getting started in learning and applying cover crops to our plan. Last fall we did our first bit of annual rye on this plot. I didn't realize before, but I had time to get a spring crop in before planting. I'll shoot for that next year. I have several areas where I'm looking to build soil for the long-term and cover crops will definitely be part of that plan. Thanks again for all the info!
Actually how deep does it go down I don't think very deep
4-6 inches is typical
Hi. If you shorten your link arm a little, the tiller will dig deeper.
Junk junk junk 40 hours broken junk
Ive run mine in fresh sod. I dont think I ever got 8" 4 to 6. I run a 5' shank cultivator first then till i getter results. Flowers should be fine.