Thank you! I posted my test sheets off to Fotospeed on Saturday and DESPITE the craziness we are all experiencing right now they are keeping up service with a little understandable delay. Your video reassures me I am on the right tracks :-)
Hi Julian. This a hugely helpful video. There's no doubt that the quality of print output is improved by following the steps you've described. I've always been happy with the prints I've produced but calibration and profiling are definitely the next step for my own-use printing. Really to good to hear that you're pleased with Fotospeed's service. I've always found them to be excellent. Great video as always Julian. Thanks for sharing
That was a very useful and informative video covering monitor, printer and paper. Thank-you very much. What I learned seemed to be very obvious but I have always created a brightness layer to try and compensate for the fact my image on the screen has a light behind it. To overcome the dullness what I should have been doing was sorting out the monitor and not the digital image!! So thanks again Julian.
Thanks David, great to hear you found the video useful! It takes a while to get used to looking at your monitor with the brightness turned down, but it's worth adjusting to and by the sounds of it you'll save yourself a little editing time. All the best, and thanks again for watching.👍
Perfect timing Julian. I'm a bit behind you in the journey. I've been using generic profiles on my Canon printer for a couple of weeks and am due to speak to Tim Jones at Fotospeed tomorrow about custom ICC profiles. He's been incredibly helpful so far. I'm interested to see the difference custom profiles will make. Fotospeed's instruction sheet unfortunately stops just before providing detailed instructions on printing the test sheet when using the Canon/Mac combination but Tim said they will log onto my Mac to take me through it. Great service. As an aside their warehouse isn't too far from me so I popped into to see them before I bought the printer (from them). Again they couldn't have done any more to help me decide between Epson and Canon. And as you said in your video they sell and will profile Hahnemuhle and Canson papers as well as their own. Finally, I don't work for Fotospeed and have no affiliation with them whatsoever! Just a satisfied customer :-)
Thanks Julian. Well explained. I bought a Canon Pro 10s and although I like the prints it produces I always feel that the colours/highlights/shadows could be better. I'll try the Fotospeed profiles and see what happens. I agree that the final printed version of your photograph is the joy to behold. Again thank you.
I'm just rewatching this video Julian after ordering some Fotospeed paper thats on offer at the moment. I almost brought an i1studio device but if you think I can get accurate colour with Fotospeeds ICC service I'm going to go that route and save some pennies. Just wanted to say a big thanks for all the info and shame I didn't get to see you this weekend at the photo show but fingers crossed for September.
Hey Gareth, thanks so much for this comment. I'm glad the info in this video has helped you a little. I'm sure you'll be happy with the Fotospeed ICC service (I know I am). Yes, shame about the show but maybe we'll see in each in September.
Wish I'd seen this about a year or so ago! Would have saved much foul language... It seems obvious once you "get it" but a year ago it certainly wasn't! I have the same printer you have and used to use StudioPro, but have since started printing directly from Lightroom once I realised what Soft Proofing was and that it uses the same profiles - but it will warn me about colours that maybe a problem. Very well done vid - you have a great way of explaining things. Pity FotoSpeed are only in the UK!!!
Thanks for watching Paul, and great to hear you found it useful...even if it came a little late! :-) Have you tried Red River Paper and Breathing Color? I don't know if they offer a custom profile service, but they do offer standard profiles....but maybe that's what you're using already? :-)
I don't see custom profiles on their sites - but I went the other direction and have been creating my own profiles for a while now. Painful to do - but once it's done for the paper/ink, happy days!!! Thanks again.
Hi Julian. Great video as always and very informative. I too was blown away how fast Fotospeed's service is, they are a great company. Can I ask, when it comes to printing, what are the settings to use? Should the colour management be left alone as you do when printing the test chart? Should it be set to the icc profile? Or let the printer or Lightroom manage the colour? I have the Canon Pro 100s. Many thanks in advance.
Hey Graham, when it comes to printing the test chart for Fotospeed, you use a special Adobe utility (which they provide) and they tell you what the settings for your printer need to be. So you don't have to go anywhere near PS or LR, or ICC profiles. :-) Great to hear you liked the video. :-)
No worries Graham. I use Canon's Print Studio Pro to do the printing (it's an LR plugin and comes with your 100s - I think). Check out this video of mine which should give you a bit more info: czcams.com/video/GtEPjtje2SI/video.html
Great video covering all the monitor & printer calibration issues; just have one question. I can set your suggested 100 cd/m2 setting on my Spider 3 calibration tool but my monitor only has brightness settings with a - & + slider bar, and no numbers or cd/m2 units showing, what is the best way to choose the correct brightness level ie how far should I be moving the slider bar.
Hi Leon, thanks so much for watching. I haven't used the Spyder 3 software, but there is an option in the SpyderX software that allows you to measure the brightness of the monitor. You can then use the basic brightness controls on your monitor until it gives you the reading you are looking for in cd/m2. This is how I do it on my laptop which doesn't have a specific cd/m2 control on it like my Eizo monitor. Hope that helps.
@@jbairdexp Ah, now I know, thanks for enlightening me. The much older Spyder 3 doesn't have that brightness measuring option as far as I know and my monitor is a simple LCD display. An Eizo monitor has been on my radar for quite a while but still waiting for my lottery ticket to come in on that one ... LOL.
@@leonflack5673 Best you can do is to turn the monitor brightness down until you think it's too dark...you'd be surprised how dark 100cd/m2 looks...though you very quickly get used to it. Yes, appreciate an Eizo monitor is out of reach for many. If you do ever look for a new monitor try BenQ...their photography monitors get great reviews. :-)
@@jbairdexp I had forgotten about the BenQ monitor; it's sitting in one of my wishlists alongside a Dell IPS and an ASUS IPS monitor, which are on the cheaper end of the scale but seem to be decent amateur use quality as far as I can tell.
Great video! But I think hardware calibration adjusts color and brightness, not sure you need to adjust the brightness manually, maybe different hardware acts different to your inbuilt options?
Thanks! :-) I did do some checking of my terminology, especially the difference between calibration and profiling. As I said in the video, I used this article as the source of my information: www.fotospeed.com/blog.asp?SeriesID=51&TextID=1
I wrestled with this too. I borrowed an X-Rite i1 Display Pro calibration device. There are two workflows - Basic and Advanced. With the Basic you don't really need to do very much at all! I used the Advanced workflow for the extra control. In Advanced mode you can choose between allowing the calibration software to adjust the brightness and contrast or to do it manually. The colours are adjusted once they have been measured and you save the display profile. I have a Mac so can only adjust brightness manually, not contrast. I've tried both allowing the software to adjust brightness and contrast automatically, and I've tried adjusting brightness manually (allowing the Display Pro to adjust contrast). I got a better result adjusting brightness manually. On many other non-Mac monitors I understand you can adjust both brightness and contrast manually. The ambient light monitor capability of the Display Pro produced a target monitor brightness of 90 cd so I set my MacBook to that together with a white point of D65. When I had brightness set at 120 cd (as I saw recommended elsewhere) my prints came out very dark. Now I have it at 90 cd the prints almost exactly match what I see on the screen in terms of brightness. What is critical though is to ignore other people's settings and to do your own calibration based on your monitor and its environment.
I've been banging my head against the wall for ages trying to get what comes out of my printer to look vaguely like what appears on the monitor, so your start-to-finish video is just what the doctor ordered. I've gone and bought the color munki display on Amazon. BTW, I grew up near Corsham: Marshfield. Wurzel country :D
That's great to hear Simon. If just one person gets some value from this video then I'm happy! :-) Hope you get your workflow sorted :-) Oooo arrrrr ;-)
Hi Julian, great video. I liked your 'keep things simple' workflow. I watched in the past several videos and the complex and expensive workflows they advocated and never did any printing of my own. I was recently asked if I would consider doing a couple of prints of photographs I did in the past, and this made me think about printing again. I was wondering if I could get some advice from you. The only requisite I was asked was that the prints would A2. Regarding the paper, I did a bit of research and landed on fotospeed website and from there I learned about your channel. What printer would you recommend? What size printer would you suggest? The reason my asking this is if it makes more sense to get an A3 printer and for any bigger format print A2 or bigger, to have it printed somewhere? Do you know of a good online service that would do the odd A2 print with quality paper, fotospeed or other. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching Vitor and great to hear you found the video valuable. The decision to buy an A3 or A2 printer is a difficult decision. It will depend on the expected volume of A2 prints you think you will make. I have the Canon Pixma Pro-10S which prints upto A3+, and anything larger than that I would probably outsource to someone like Whitewall. If I was printing more A2 I would go for the Canon ProGraf 1000 instead. Print size aside though, it is cheaper to print with a ProgGraf 1000...the ink tanks are bigger and cost per millilitre is lower. Hope this helps.
Great informative video Julian. Well done. I appreciate the value of calibrating our monitors. My problem is when someone buys a print from my website, it is based on their own monitor settings/colour/brightness etc. I have had the odd return as the colours weren't true to their monitor. Do you have any suggestions for this particular issue?
Hey Chris, great to hear you found the video useful. That's a tricky one. Trouble is, you'll never be able to produce a print that matches the colour of someone elses uncalibrated monitor....All you can do is to make sure that your end to end process is accurate and you let your customers know that before they purchase.
Julian Baird - Landscape Photography Thanks for that Julian. Nice to have confirmed what I was thinking. I currently have the customer check a box before purchasing that they agree to the fact that their colours/brightness may not be how the final print arrives. Sadly, it still doesn't prevent the odd complaint. Look forward to the next video 👍
It's a really tricky situation....I would imagine that from a legal point of view, the print isn't faulty, and as a print is made to order, you shouldn't need to accept it as a return. However, is not accepting it as a return worth the potential back lash from your client?
Julian Baird - Landscape Photography Yes you are spot on Julian. Ultimately I want the customer to be happy and satisfied. Even though custom orders as you rightly say have a different returns policy. I was originally just wondering if there was anything we can do for them to view the image as it should be viewed. Problem is that there is so many devices and brands out there that we would be fighting a losing battle to keep on top of them all. Your video just got me thinking on this subject again.
It would be an impossible task to make sure the client is viewing an image as it should be. So many factors including the hardware they are using, and even the environment they are viewing it in all have an impact. I think the best option is to educate clients that you use a fully calibrated workflow, and that they may notice subtle changes in colours, saturation and brightness. I'm not sure I have a really good answer. :-(
Hi Jullian, I have the Canon pixma pro 100 and have had trouble loading the paper in the manual feed. How far do you have to put the paper in. My printer keeps showing an error of paper not loaded. The fine art papers have to go on manual feed but I have been unable to get it to work. Maybe you could show a video or tell me the secret please.Great video.
Hi Nicky, sorry to hear you are having problems. Can't think what the issue is though. Never had any problems with paper loading, even the heavier fine art papers. I just place it in the rear feed and close feed slot. I had a look at the manual for the 100, and it looks like the same process.
I am thinking of using the fotospeed service for custom profiling my Epson r2000 and fotospeed lustre pf paper ,so what will I gain from the custom profile over the one I can download for the paper (footspeed pf lustre) & Epson printer from the fotospeed website?I am not sure how much profiling I need I am now getting in to color accuracy trying using the x-rite passport and a calibrated benq monitor sw2700 using x-rite i1 display pro and palette master ,now will I get better results using my monitor in adobe rgb and setting printer to adobe rgb ,or using a profile that you footspeed recommend using rgb and turning off printer management and monitor to rgb ,what I am implying is does my printer have the capabilities to print the adobe rgb gamut. I also use the lightroom with softproof and selected paper profile.Any info gratefully received
Hi Paul, each individual printer, ink and paper combination will produce very slight variations in colour, so with the custom profile you get a profile that matches your specific combination. You might not even notice the difference between a generic profile and a custom profile, but given the service is free and very quick, there seems little reason not to make use of it. I would leave your monitor on Adobe RGB and use the custom profile for the paper you are using (when you have them). I don't print using LR, but it looks like under Colour Management I would change that from "Managed by Printer" to what ever custom profile you would want to use. Hope this helps. 👍
X rite says to re-load the original monitor profile before using the Color Munki to re-calibrate. In other words, do not run a new profile on top of the last custom profile. Do you reset your monitor to its original profile before you use you Color Munki? My first profile from the CM worked great. When I tried running another profile 6 months later (using the CM profile last generated) the colors came out way off.
Hi Steve, I wasn't aware of that. I've never reset the monitor back to it's original profile before profiling again. Is there a published article from X-rite on the subject?
Hi, to calibrate two or more monitors you simply run the calibration process on each monitor. You will unlikely get an exact colour match from two different models of display. While calibration will ensure the colours displayed by each monitor are accurate, each monitor will be able to display a different range or colours resulting in slight differences. To be sure of the most accurate colours for printing, do your final editing on your best monitor, i.e. normally the one with the with widest colour gamut
Hi Julian, I tried this yesterday on windows 10 with Canon PIXMA pro 100. The test page does not come up like the picture with no option to print page.Any idea what I have done wrong. It opens it in windows photo viewer. Many thanks for your time
Thank you! I posted my test sheets off to Fotospeed on Saturday and DESPITE the craziness we are all experiencing right now they are keeping up service with a little understandable delay. Your video reassures me I am on the right tracks :-)
That's fantastic to hear Claire. Hope you've found plenty of images in your catalogue to print! 👍
Hi Julian. This a hugely helpful video. There's no doubt that the quality of print output is improved by following the steps you've described. I've always been happy with the prints I've produced but calibration and profiling are definitely the next step for my own-use printing. Really to good to hear that you're pleased with Fotospeed's service. I've always found them to be excellent. Great video as always Julian. Thanks for sharing
Thanks mate! Hopefully I've shown that it's not too hard / expensive to increase colour accuracy. :-)
That was a very useful and informative video covering monitor, printer and paper. Thank-you very much. What I learned seemed to be very obvious but I have always created a brightness layer to try and compensate for the fact my image on the screen has a light behind it. To overcome the dullness what I should have been doing was sorting out the monitor and not the digital image!! So thanks again Julian.
Thanks David, great to hear you found the video useful! It takes a while to get used to looking at your monitor with the brightness turned down, but it's worth adjusting to and by the sounds of it you'll save yourself a little editing time. All the best, and thanks again for watching.👍
Perfect timing Julian. I'm a bit behind you in the journey. I've been using generic profiles on my Canon printer for a couple of weeks and am due to speak to Tim Jones at Fotospeed tomorrow about custom ICC profiles. He's been incredibly helpful so far. I'm interested to see the difference custom profiles will make.
Fotospeed's instruction sheet unfortunately stops just before providing detailed instructions on printing the test sheet when using the Canon/Mac combination but Tim said they will log onto my Mac to take me through it. Great service.
As an aside their warehouse isn't too far from me so I popped into to see them before I bought the printer (from them). Again they couldn't have done any more to help me decide between Epson and Canon. And as you said in your video they sell and will profile Hahnemuhle and Canson papers as well as their own.
Finally, I don't work for Fotospeed and have no affiliation with them whatsoever! Just a satisfied customer :-)
Thanks Paul. :-) I'm also not affiliated with Fotospeed, just a very happy customer. :-)
Thanks Julian. Well explained. I bought a Canon Pro 10s and although I like the prints it produces I always feel that the colours/highlights/shadows could be better. I'll try the Fotospeed profiles and see what happens. I agree that the final printed version of your photograph is the joy to behold. Again thank you.
Thanks Jawad :-)
thanks Julian great video, i am justgetting the pixma pro 200 printer .so once i get it i be try the icc profiles
Cheers Mike and congrats on the purchase of your Pro-200....happy printing! 👍
As always.. Excellent video! 👍🏻
Thanks so much! :-)
Interesting video Julian. Answered a few of my questions
Happy to help Jim :-)
A tricky subject well explained!
Thanks mate! :-)
I'm just rewatching this video Julian after ordering some Fotospeed paper thats on offer at the moment. I almost brought an i1studio device but if you think I can get accurate colour with Fotospeeds ICC service I'm going to go that route and save some pennies. Just wanted to say a big thanks for all the info and shame I didn't get to see you this weekend at the photo show but fingers crossed for September.
Hey Gareth, thanks so much for this comment. I'm glad the info in this video has helped you a little. I'm sure you'll be happy with the Fotospeed ICC service (I know I am). Yes, shame about the show but maybe we'll see in each in September.
Well done Julian, a very informative video
Cheers Graeme. :-)
Wish I'd seen this about a year or so ago! Would have saved much foul language... It seems obvious once you "get it" but a year ago it certainly wasn't! I have the same printer you have and used to use StudioPro, but have since started printing directly from Lightroom once I realised what Soft Proofing was and that it uses the same profiles - but it will warn me about colours that maybe a problem. Very well done vid - you have a great way of explaining things. Pity FotoSpeed are only in the UK!!!
Thanks for watching Paul, and great to hear you found it useful...even if it came a little late! :-) Have you tried Red River Paper and Breathing Color? I don't know if they offer a custom profile service, but they do offer standard profiles....but maybe that's what you're using already? :-)
I don't see custom profiles on their sites - but I went the other direction and have been creating my own profiles for a while now. Painful to do - but once it's done for the paper/ink, happy days!!! Thanks again.
Hi Julian. Great video as always and very informative. I too was blown away how fast Fotospeed's service is, they are a great company.
Can I ask, when it comes to printing, what are the settings to use? Should the colour management be left alone as you do when printing the test chart? Should it be set to the icc profile? Or let the printer or Lightroom manage the colour? I have the Canon Pro 100s. Many thanks in advance.
Hey Graham, when it comes to printing the test chart for Fotospeed, you use a special Adobe utility (which they provide) and they tell you what the settings for your printer need to be. So you don't have to go anywhere near PS or LR, or ICC profiles. :-) Great to hear you liked the video. :-)
Thanks for your response Julian. My question was aimed at when it comes to printing an image. My Bad, should've been a bit clearer! :-/
No worries Graham. I use Canon's Print Studio Pro to do the printing (it's an LR plugin and comes with your 100s - I think). Check out this video of mine which should give you a bit more info: czcams.com/video/GtEPjtje2SI/video.html
Great video covering all the monitor & printer calibration issues; just have one question. I can set your suggested 100 cd/m2 setting on my Spider 3 calibration tool but my monitor only has brightness settings with a - & + slider bar, and no numbers or cd/m2 units showing, what is the best way to choose the correct brightness level ie how far should I be moving the slider bar.
Hi Leon, thanks so much for watching. I haven't used the Spyder 3 software, but there is an option in the SpyderX software that allows you to measure the brightness of the monitor. You can then use the basic brightness controls on your monitor until it gives you the reading you are looking for in cd/m2. This is how I do it on my laptop which doesn't have a specific cd/m2 control on it like my Eizo monitor. Hope that helps.
@@jbairdexp Ah, now I know, thanks for enlightening me. The much older Spyder 3 doesn't have that brightness measuring option as far as I know and my monitor is a simple LCD display. An Eizo monitor has been on my radar for quite a while but still waiting for my lottery ticket to come in on that one ... LOL.
@@leonflack5673 Best you can do is to turn the monitor brightness down until you think it's too dark...you'd be surprised how dark 100cd/m2 looks...though you very quickly get used to it. Yes, appreciate an Eizo monitor is out of reach for many. If you do ever look for a new monitor try BenQ...their photography monitors get great reviews. :-)
@@jbairdexp I had forgotten about the BenQ monitor; it's sitting in one of my wishlists alongside a Dell IPS and an ASUS IPS monitor, which are on the cheaper end of the scale but seem to be decent amateur use quality as far as I can tell.
@@leonflack5673 Also consider ViewSonic - FroKnowsPhoto just reviewed one and they look pretty good...though he did review a massive 32 incher!
Great video! But I think hardware calibration adjusts color and brightness, not sure you need to adjust the brightness manually, maybe different hardware acts different to your inbuilt options?
Thanks! :-) I did do some checking of my terminology, especially the difference between calibration and profiling. As I said in the video, I used this article as the source of my information: www.fotospeed.com/blog.asp?SeriesID=51&TextID=1
I wrestled with this too. I borrowed an X-Rite i1 Display Pro calibration device. There are two workflows - Basic and Advanced. With the Basic you don't really need to do very much at all! I used the Advanced workflow for the extra control.
In Advanced mode you can choose between allowing the calibration software to adjust the brightness and contrast or to do it manually. The colours are adjusted once they have been measured and you save the display profile. I have a Mac so can only adjust brightness manually, not contrast. I've tried both allowing the software to adjust brightness and contrast automatically, and I've tried adjusting brightness manually (allowing the Display Pro to adjust contrast). I got a better result adjusting brightness manually. On many other non-Mac monitors I understand you can adjust both brightness and contrast manually.
The ambient light monitor capability of the Display Pro produced a target monitor brightness of 90 cd so I set my MacBook to that together with a white point of D65. When I had brightness set at 120 cd (as I saw recommended elsewhere) my prints came out very dark. Now I have it at 90 cd the prints almost exactly match what I see on the screen in terms of brightness. What is critical though is to ignore other people's settings and to do your own calibration based on your monitor and its environment.
Excellent!
Thanks Simon. :-)
I've been banging my head against the wall for ages trying to get what comes out of my printer to look vaguely like what appears on the monitor, so your start-to-finish video is just what the doctor ordered. I've gone and bought the color munki display on Amazon. BTW, I grew up near Corsham: Marshfield. Wurzel country :D
That's great to hear Simon. If just one person gets some value from this video then I'm happy! :-) Hope you get your workflow sorted :-) Oooo arrrrr ;-)
Hi Julian, great video. I liked your 'keep things simple' workflow. I watched in the past several videos and the complex and expensive workflows they advocated and never did any printing of my own.
I was recently asked if I would consider doing a couple of prints of photographs I did in the past, and this made me think about printing again.
I was wondering if I could get some advice from you.
The only requisite I was asked was that the prints would A2. Regarding the paper, I did a bit of research and landed on fotospeed website and from there I learned about your channel.
What printer would you recommend?
What size printer would you suggest? The reason my asking this is if it makes more sense to get an A3 printer and for any bigger format print A2 or bigger, to have it printed somewhere?
Do you know of a good online service that would do the odd A2 print with quality paper, fotospeed or other.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching Vitor and great to hear you found the video valuable. The decision to buy an A3 or A2 printer is a difficult decision. It will depend on the expected volume of A2 prints you think you will make. I have the Canon Pixma Pro-10S which prints upto A3+, and anything larger than that I would probably outsource to someone like Whitewall. If I was printing more A2 I would go for the Canon ProGraf 1000 instead. Print size aside though, it is cheaper to print with a ProgGraf 1000...the ink tanks are bigger and cost per millilitre is lower. Hope this helps.
Great informative video Julian. Well done. I appreciate the value of calibrating our monitors. My problem is when someone buys a print from my website, it is based on their own monitor settings/colour/brightness etc. I have had the odd return as the colours weren't true to their monitor. Do you have any suggestions for this particular issue?
Hey Chris, great to hear you found the video useful. That's a tricky one. Trouble is, you'll never be able to produce a print that matches the colour of someone elses uncalibrated monitor....All you can do is to make sure that your end to end process is accurate and you let your customers know that before they purchase.
Julian Baird - Landscape Photography Thanks for that Julian. Nice to have confirmed what I was thinking. I currently have the customer check a box before purchasing that they agree to the fact that their colours/brightness may not be how the final print arrives. Sadly, it still doesn't prevent the odd complaint. Look forward to the next video 👍
It's a really tricky situation....I would imagine that from a legal point of view, the print isn't faulty, and as a print is made to order, you shouldn't need to accept it as a return. However, is not accepting it as a return worth the potential back lash from your client?
Julian Baird - Landscape Photography Yes you are spot on Julian. Ultimately I want the customer to be happy and satisfied. Even though custom orders as you rightly say have a different returns policy. I was originally just wondering if there was anything we can do for them to view the image as it should be viewed. Problem is that there is so many devices and brands out there that we would be fighting a losing battle to keep on top of them all. Your video just got me thinking on this subject again.
It would be an impossible task to make sure the client is viewing an image as it should be. So many factors including the hardware they are using, and even the environment they are viewing it in all have an impact. I think the best option is to educate clients that you use a fully calibrated workflow, and that they may notice subtle changes in colours, saturation and brightness. I'm not sure I have a really good answer. :-(
Hi Jullian, I have the Canon pixma pro 100 and have had trouble loading the paper in the manual feed. How far do you have to put the paper in. My printer keeps showing an error of paper not loaded. The fine art papers have to go on manual feed but I have been unable to get it to work. Maybe you could show a video or tell me the secret please.Great video.
Hi Nicky, sorry to hear you are having problems. Can't think what the issue is though. Never had any problems with paper loading, even the heavier fine art papers. I just place it in the rear feed and close feed slot. I had a look at the manual for the 100, and it looks like the same process.
I am thinking of using the fotospeed service for custom profiling my Epson r2000 and fotospeed lustre pf paper ,so what will I gain from the custom profile over the one I can download for the paper (footspeed pf lustre) & Epson printer from the fotospeed website?I am not sure how much profiling I need I am now getting in to color accuracy trying using the x-rite passport and a calibrated benq monitor sw2700 using x-rite i1 display pro and palette master ,now will I get better results using my monitor in adobe rgb and setting printer to adobe rgb ,or using a profile that you footspeed recommend using rgb and turning off printer management and monitor to rgb ,what I am implying is does my printer have the capabilities to print the adobe rgb gamut. I also use the lightroom with softproof and selected paper profile.Any info gratefully received
Hi Paul, each individual printer, ink and paper combination will produce very slight variations in colour, so with the custom profile you get a profile that matches your specific combination. You might not even notice the difference between a generic profile and a custom profile, but given the service is free and very quick, there seems little reason not to make use of it. I would leave your monitor on Adobe RGB and use the custom profile for the paper you are using (when you have them). I don't print using LR, but it looks like under Colour Management I would change that from "Managed by Printer" to what ever custom profile you would want to use. Hope this helps. 👍
@@jbairdexp Ok thanks .very useful information provided
X rite says to re-load the original monitor profile before using the Color Munki to re-calibrate. In other words, do not run a new profile on top of the last custom profile. Do you reset your monitor to its original profile before you use you Color Munki? My first profile from the CM worked great. When I tried running another profile 6 months later (using the CM profile last generated) the colors came out way off.
Hi Steve, I wasn't aware of that. I've never reset the monitor back to it's original profile before profiling again. Is there a published article from X-rite on the subject?
If i want to use sw2700pt as secondary monitor with a MacBook pro... Then how to calibrate macbook screen and sw2700pt to get the same color on both?
Hi, to calibrate two or more monitors you simply run the calibration process on each monitor. You will unlikely get an exact colour match from two different models of display. While calibration will ensure the colours displayed by each monitor are accurate, each monitor will be able to display a different range or colours resulting in slight differences. To be sure of the most accurate colours for printing, do your final editing on your best monitor, i.e. normally the one with the with widest colour gamut
@@jbairdexp ok.. Thanks
Hi Julian, I tried this yesterday on windows 10 with Canon PIXMA pro 100. The test page does not come up like the picture with no option to print page.Any idea what I have done wrong. It opens it in windows photo viewer. Many thanks for your time
Hi Nicky, did you use the Adobe Printer Colour Utility to open the test page?
I cannot get it to open.Unzip, extract the files, then next time click run but that is not an option. Thanks for your time.
Hi Nicky, sorry, just to confirm, you can get the utility to run or not?
Julian Baird - Landscape Photography no I cannot get the utility to run
Hi, I'm not sure why that might be to be honest. Are you getting any error messages when you double click "Adobe Color Printer Utility.exe"?