Yeah, I'm 65. I had to run out to the shop and make sure he put my table saw back. I dint mind him using it but he"s got me wondering how he knew where the spare key to the shop was? I just have to grin and Bear it I guess. * Peace Out Folks *
Fun fact. WD 40 was invented by an astronautics engineer who at one point worked for nasa. He developed it to displace water in space as mentioned in the video. He named it “Water Displacement test #40” which became known as the shorter name WD-40. Took him 40 tries before he accepted the formula he liked as a final product.
Thanks for that. I was always under the impression that it was developed during WWII for taking care of guns and equipment and stuff. Had no idea it was made for the space program.
I am from New Zealand. I didn't realize that WD-40 made other aerosol products. I new that WD-40 was designed for Water Displacement. We get CRC (Cyclic Redundancy Check) they make 5.56 lubricant for different types (food grade, marine, low oder etc) The CRC brand also make spray paints Zinc it (grey/black) spray on glues, 808 Silicon Spray, Contact Cleaner. I'm going to get some WD-40 spray as well.
Actually they hit the right mix after the 3rd try but WD 3 didn't sound good to the marketing people so they went with WD 40 for sales /marketing reasons. BTW it NOT approved for aviation use. It's a solvent, not a lubricant.
During the gulf War, my M-60 machine gun kept getting surface rust unless I cleaned it daily (we were right on the gulf coast). I used WD40 to clean it one day and it never got surface rust again.
Wd is water dispersant formula 40 designed for nasa. By repelling moisture it stops rust. Also good to spray Electrical connections on 4x4 as keeps water from killing ignition. It has some ouls in it but it not a lubricant it is water dispersant
Mr. Ed reusable too; I know what it was designed for so I usually grab whatever’s next to it on shelf and they have applicator straw too BUT WD-40 now has many sister products to choose from
One of the first WD40 marketing campaigns I remember was to use WD40 to drive water out of spark plug wires and distributor caps. At the time I was a teen with 2 dirt bikes and truly when you ride through puddles or deep streams the plug wires would get wet and stop the engine. Back then most cars had a lot of room under their hoods and poorly designed roads also were prone to rain water ponding up and the tires would soak the engine compartment. WD40 did work well to drive the moisture from the plugs, wires, and distributors. I was saved from sitting in the woods for hours waiting for my bike to dry off many times. I worked at a service station when I got a little older and we would use it to start drowned cars on service calls. It saved a number of tows. I've been told it is a decent starting fluid for 2 cycle motors and diesel engines though I've never tried it for that. I've been using a product called SCREWLOOSE by CRC for penetrating rusted and over-tightened fittings. It works good, is FDA approved for food plants, and doesn't stink like one of the other competitors product.
Another use of the silicone spray lube is to spray the foam rubber door gaskets of your car to keep your doors from freezing shut in the winter. You just have to read the can and make sure it's only silicone spray lube you're getting and that they haven't tossed in a few "extras" that wind up destroying the door gasket instead.
Residential electrician here. You taught me a lot here and I have gone through the video about a handful of times in the last year, not only because it’s interesting, but I’m showing family,friends and colleagues. Using the WD to get the rust out of tools now and following it up with silicone spray. Thanks again for the info. Will continue to share.
All absolutely true and what I have been saying for years (ex mechanic) You missed one though and I discovered this years ago - WD40 is great on an oil stone for sharpening blades, the stone does not get clogged and u can feel the abrasion when sharpening much better than with a heavy oil :-)
Wise bear. I love WD-40, but I also have graphite, silicone, and lithium lubricants. I was actually really surprised a few months ago when a friend of mine asked if I had some WD-40 because he had a sticking door lock in an old dodge truck of his. I gave him some graphite, and he had never even heard of it.
According to an old auto shop instructor, WD 40 was first used to displace water from distributors during ww2 because when the trucks and armor went through a storm they had problems with water getting into point ignitions and ground them out. It went with the troops in to the front lines.
Caution with silicone lubricant in any area you might want to repaint in the future. It is very difficult to totally remove using any solvent, and any remaining silicone will tend to prevent paint from sticking
A coating company went and painted buildings in my city with a silicone based coating,,, this was marketed as “ Anti Graffiti” and “Easy Wash” which is true. But when they want to repaint…. Ya. The only way I got silicone coatings off exterior buildings was to do HOT water pressure washing. It was about a sqft in about a minute. It all came off but left a silicone pile on the side walk and little flakes floated onto cars near by (easy rinse off). I was so Happy when we started painting felt ,,, so easy. Hahah
@@BlossomPainting Woodworkers warn against using silicone coatings on wood working tools to prevent them from rusting. Any silicone that transfers to the wood will prevent the wood from taking a stain or finish. A "No-No" for chisels, hand saws, table saw tops...etc.
WD-40 has limited uses, that much is very true. However, the 'Smart Straw' fitted to the new cans has lots of uses. When your can is empty, pull it off the can and save it. You'll be surprised how many other aerosol cans it will fit!
Great video. Couple points, WD40 Is actually a decent penetrating lubricant AVE and Project Farm both tested it against a slew of other penetrating lubes and it did very well, was consistently in the top 3 or 4 out of a dozen. As a mechanic I can say my anecdotal evidence supports that. Secondly the MSDS says it's 35% petroleum oil..so it absolutely lubricates, but as stated it's kind of a jack of all trades. Great item to keep around
I seem to remember some time ago they had to remove any claims to lubricator.. When it boils off, what’s left? It certainly ain’t 30% oil, it may be good whilst it’s boiling off at penetrating but it’s far better at cleaning.. I suspect any oil in WD40 is being gassed off, since it literally leaves nothing behind to lubricate one the boiling has finished.. It smells nice though…!
The best thing about these vids is the instead-options given. This is truly an informative channel. Many thx. The key to my door was jamming badly and one shot of graphite spray in the key hole left it better than new.
Years ago I had an old military jeep that wouldn't start when it was foggy or damp. WD40 was introduced for displacing water and waterproofing ignition systems. That was my introduction to WD40 and it worked amazingly well.
@RabbleBarkMoo --- Many years ago, I drove tow trucks for the Auto Club. And during rainy seasons' many drivers would go too fast through standing water at intersections, which would slash water onto the exhaust manifolds, causing steam which would find it's way into the distributor cap and kill the motor. Whip off the distributor cap, spray wd40 inside, slosh it around, dump it out & no more water!! Drivers thought we were the greatest!
@RabbleBarkMoo It displaces water. An ignition system is passing a high voltage, low current load: any water acts as a conductor and shorts the ignition. Ever wash your engine in a car wash and had trouble starting afterwards? Spray wd-40 and the engine fires right up. The ozone in the air eats at the insulation of the ignition system. You can see this at night in the dark look at a running engine and watch the sparks jumping from the ignition wires. After a rain storm you can stand by a big puddle and fix stalled cars for profit using only wd-40.
Nah I used Wire Dry specifically designed for wires and ignition. then of course they discontinued it and was always hesitant of using anything else as alot of products are conductive or destroy spark ignition wires
I use WD-40 for some of my tools. My garage is damp, so I spray WD-40 on my pliers, hammers, etc. to keep them from rusting. It's also a good cleaner for certain things.
Thanks for this, useful and informative. The only thing I'd argue with is the statement that it's not good on seals, plastic or rubber. Anecdotal, I know, but I've winterised my motorcycle every year by emptying a can of WD40 ALL OVER the bike every fall. I've done this for 25 years! During that time, I've never had a fork seal fail, a hose burst or any other seal related failure. Rather than attack rubber and plastics, WD40 seems to keep them flexible and protects from perishing. Just my 2c based on my personal experience! 🙂
3 life hacks I've learned with WD-40. 1) It is EXCELLENT at removing crayon or marker streaks your toddler makes on a flat screen TV. Just spray a paper towel a little, and wipe away. 2) Also VERY good at removing pretty much anything off a painted drywall. Crayon, pencil, pen, etc. Gone. 3) Bears right on about using WD-40 for door hinges. Instead, use a baby butt paste like Desitin or the creamier variety. Works WAY better, and lasts for months that way.
Lucas Oil Chain Lubricant for bicycles, Scotchgard for waterproofing, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for rusty bolt lubrication and finally 3-N-1 Oil for lubricating your tools.
I spray it in the tail lights of my trailer when I changed a bulb. It prevents water forming rust and oxidization of the lead of the bulbs, that makes them stop working.
Personally I have found WD40 Dry PTFE great for hinges and locks. A lot of locksmiths advise against graphite now for locks. I was told by a few locksmiths that graphite is too abrasive.
As a water dispersant it did one thing well. On old distributors with points, any moisture, would render it NFG. Pop the two clips, lift the cap, spray with WD-40, reinstall and it’s now a runner. Good tip if you have something with points.
For any kind of electric motor, that is slowing down, like high speed fans, bathroom fans, and sewing machines and the only one recommended by Singer, is "3 in 1 oil" also sold under the Singer brand. That stuff is absolutely awesome.
WD 40 will actually dry out internal parts that need to be kept lubricated . It's good for loosening and cleaning things up , but add a proper long lasting lubricant after.
One use I found was removal of graffiti on my color bond fence. Worked like a charm. Depends on the pen used I guess too. But it wouldn't come off with other things I tried.
I have all those different lubes and some lol!!! White lithium grease is what I have my crew use on their hedge trimmers. It Coates the blades and stays on there. Mostly I use WD-40 as a “cleaner”, blasting the grime out of tools and what not. Then, I actually apply the correct lube. Great vid !
WD-40 Dry Lubricant is preferred for shop tools since it dries "dry" and does not attract dust/sawdust. White Lithium in a table saw would be a disaster.
When I was in the Fleet Air Arm in the 70s/80s, it was labelled Rocket WD-40, it had a rocket with a yellow and blue chequered pattern around it on the can similar to that on some NASA rockets and it was often shortened to just 'Rocket', 'Dubs 40' or just 'Dubs'. It was expensive so we were encouraged to use PX-24 instead whenever possible which came in five litre bottles and was put in a hand spray and was used to spray on an aircraft's skin after a freshwater wash, especially if it had been flying over the sea. I never really knew what the difference was but always thought that PX-24 smelled a bit like coconut. I remember being told that WD-40 was a dry lubricant in that its lubrication continued after it had dried. I have to say that I'm a bit disappointed with the current delivery systems for WD-40. The folding straw spray heads that I have used are incapable of giving a momentary spray, no matter how hard I try, an instant of a press always gives about two or three seconds of spray. And the hand spray bottles are a total failure - whether they have a rubber seal which perishes or something, I don't know but after a while, pumping the trigger just results in a handful of WD-40 and nothing hitting the target. So, I decant WD-40 into a small bottle for manual application and keep an old fashioned can around for difficult areas.
Having been reminded of PX24 by my comment above, I discovered that it was still available so I bought five litres to use on my car the same way that it was used on aircraft, i.e. as water/dirt repellant. I regret to have to say that the product I received, whilst it probably does its job, smells disappointingly nothing like coconut.
I bought a can with the attached straw when Lowe's switched to them. Terrible. No control over what was coming out. So I got a gallon can, pour it into my own container, and use as needed. Made me want to buy another brand without that thing!
I like the design of the straw now, because it never gets lost and you can just fold it down for more of a general application, but like you, I think it fails miserably when it comes to trying to give like a half burst, where we used to be able to trickle it out of the can. These new triggers are either full on or full off, and there's no middle ground.
@jack tarr I still think of helicopters as cabs almost 40 years after leaving the RN. I was only thinking of the rag bales we used to get a few days ago. About 50% were useless synthetic material that wouldn't soak up anything. Sometimes you'd get a bale which was all synthetic in which case most of the PX24 went down your sleeve.
I first used WD 40 in Vietnam. Daily we used quarts of it for machine guns and 20 mm cannons on river patrol boats. In a jungle climate of frequent rain and constant humidity it was mandatory if you wanted weapons that worked. They did. So I still have an affection for WD 40.
My uncle says he owes his life to WD40 keeping his guns going in Vietnam. Without it he said he'd have been up a creek. To this day he still drenches his guns in it because he lives on the Delaware Bay and the salt and humidity is brutal here. Last but least thankyou for serving.
we did one better in Vietnam. we used the synthetic Huey tranny oil to fry our chicken up in the "Boonies", but alota guys started twitchin funny and convulsing often so we stopped using it for cookin!
@@rogerd4559 Reminds me of cooking by using C-4 plastic explosive sticks. They burn well, like Sterno. The first time I saw a guy doing this I got further confirmation of the crazyland I signed up for. Still crazy. I left Vietnam but it never left me.
@@southjerseysound7340 Odd I never saw one drop of WD-40 in Vietnam and I was a helicptor mechanic, but some guys would cook with the Huey tranny fluid but later developed nerve damage so they quit that
I buy it by the gallon and use it when machining aluminum on the lathe or mill. It keeps the chips from sticking to the cutter. Same when hack sawing aluminum, spray some on hacksaw blade and it keeps the blade from gumming up with aluminum. Great stuff.
@@chrisgraham2904 I use in when cutting aluminum on the lathe or mill. I works well to keep the metal from sticking and gumming up the tool bit. On steel, I use high sulfur cutting oil.
The only time I’ve used wd-40 in an automotive setting was when replacing the suspension of a 1980 fj cruiser. (I went through 6 hacksaw blades on 2 bolts) the wd-40 was used to loosen the rusty bolts and weaken the rubber for two weeks before I removed the bolts holding the original hardware on the truck.
I'm not a huge WD40 fanboy. Especially after reading various reviews of it. But all the very old (1950's) firearms my father left me he used only WD40 on after cleaning, and they all have no rust.
I used to use it for general purpose lubricating but now I use it to clean my tools and then I use the dry lube. White lithium spray is great for battery terminals but I use NOCO for that. PB blaster Surface Shield is the best for rust prevention.
I was using a power file with a sandpaper belt on it, and the belt kept jumping off. I checked the front bearing and it wouldn’t move at all- seized solid. I sprayed some WD40 on it and it freed up immediately, I couldn’t believe it! I thought the bearing had collapsed, but there you go- it’s just amazing to have around.
I used to work on the Atlas Rocket program! It was reputed that in 'the old days' they would take a couple of gallons to the top of the rocket and dumps it evenly over the cone. It would drip down all around where an entire crew would be at each level of work platform rubbing with 'clean-wipes' tp spread the oil over the surface.
PTFE dry film is good for many rubber and synthetic seal surfaces and door/cargo hinges. It leaves a thinner, harder protective layer than silicone. It's a preferred lube in the RV industry.
Another one! Bad use of WD40... Which, as the bear mentioned regarding the hinges, just congregates the crud and traps water. NEVER use WD40 on ANYTHING electrical, espeically a HV ignition circuit. Use isopropyl to clean electrical gear. If one must coat the distributor cap, use an electrical (non-conductive) lacquer, or silicone spray; silicone is a very efficient moisture dispersal agent, one reason why it is used on all manner of aquatic equipment. A small smear of silicone grease, also acts as a pretty good 'demister' for one's diving mask. . WD40 has only one or two key uses - to clean rusty tools and parts and to help free rusted fastners, that said, many occasions, I've still had to apply heat to expand the fastner before it will deign to move. Otherwise keep well away from flame and electrics.
lol... I used to do that all the time with my MRK2 Escort. It was that good I couldn't wait to try it on my mates MG Metro... ended up blowing the cap off lol. He was kinda pissed off with me for a week or so!
As a IBM mainframe tech for 30 years I can tell you it was recommended for cleaning all the electrical/circuit connectors, coincidentally my accounts included General Dynamics Convair,
VERY GOOD! ... might want to add that after cleaning process a VERY SMALL dab of dielectric grease ensures favorable contacts and deters recurring corrosion.
I had a neighbor in Idaho who was trying to start a JetSki in his driveway. He had a garden hose hooked to the jet pump which circulates water through the engine and then exits out the exhaust. Long story short, the engine was flooded with water. We pulled the plugs and they were soaked with water. Well neither of us had a compressor to dry the plug, so I suggested WD40. We shut off the water, turned over the engine to pump the water out of the plug holes, sprayed the plugs with WD40 to get the water off the plugs. repeated several times and got the JeySki running. It worked great to "dry" the plugs. He was amazed that WD40 did the job.
I saw this & had to comment! I have a nice home machine shop & living where there is always high humidity rusting of fine tools/machines is always a problem. I don't allow wd40 in my shop period because invariably it starts rusting within 2 weeks. Having done a substantial rust preventative study when working @ GE as an engineer. I tried 25 different rust preventative on cleaned steel plates. The winner for rust prevention was CRC-SP400 having kept the steel rust free over 6 months. WD was in the 1 week range , if lucky , Someone once told me that originally wd-40 was wing deicer - 40 degrees, don't know if true but makes sense on the surface. Also Sp350 is a thinner version for micrometers ect
PB Blaster... displaces water quite well actually. Has a tendency to also go where you do NOT want it to go as well- but that is precisely what it was designed to do- PENETRATE!
Motor oil is good for bicycle chains. Used it all time back in 70s when didnt have all these different lubes and all. Soak in oil then hang above a container for it to drip dry into. Still use that on my bikes today
Yes, exactly. I seen a manager break a key from wd40 at a Pizza Hut. I explained that I use it as a degreaser, and that they stripped away the pins grease.
I like to use "Balistol" oil. Some people still call it "Waffenöl". In18 Hundred something the German Kaiser wanted something for his Soldiers. That would avoid rust on weapons, would also grease them, but could also be used on all the leather gear and fabric to impragnate that to keep it maintained and also could be used to treath wounds. One company came up with a solution that actually worked. And so that name stuck until today still... Waffenöl translated actually means "Weapons oil" It does not harden. It is good for your skin and is a great cleaner to get stuburn stuff off your skin where you normally would use very aggressive (to your skin) stuff on. In fact: if you drink it, nothing bad will happen. It can be used for A LOT of applications other than the original applications. I.e. all precions gears (i.e. Sewing machines) love that stuff. I find it a pity that people forget about the old stuff. I also did not use it for some years until I had an issue with a preivous WD40 application which now had an issue with that stuff hardening and getting sticky (Which I knew it does, but didn't think materred, but it did.)
Its good advice. Use PURE silicon grease/spray on your car window rubbers to prevent them freezing up in winter, this is also good to keep your car door rubbers free from frost in the winter.
You know what's absolutely fantastic at protecting metals from surface rust and corrosion? Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube. It's a dry lube so it doesn't leave behind a greasy, oily mess that attracts dirt, dust, and grime, and it is insanely good at protecting metal. I use it to preserver all of my reloading dies and the ones that were treated new, still look new.
The first time I used it was March 1968 when my Marine Corps unit 3/27th. Marines was sent to Vietnam for the TET Offensive. We arrived with M-14s and switched over to M-16 s and that was the lubricant we used. Semper Fi. L/ cpl Thomas Fuleky
Good bike chain lube that someone showed me over 30 years ago-- automatic transmission fluid (any type). Thin enough to get into the chain but not heavy enough to attract a lot of dirt. After you lube the chain, run the pedals backwards while holding a rag on the chain. This gets rid of excess lube. The smallest container of ATF will last you for years.
I've never used WD-40 on my razor. I still have a couple Gillette Sensor razors that take those twin blade cartridges. I want to say I got those in the late 80s. I haven't used them in ages, but I wouldn't be surprised if they still made those refills. I know as recently as five years ago, they still made them, and even then, they should have probably declared them obsolete lol. I only have one of those twin edge razors that you twist the bottom to open up the top to clean and replace the blade. The nice thing about those is the blades are universal, and because soooo many companies have made them over the years, unless everyone got together all at once and decided to stop making blades for them, they'll never go obsolete. When I first started shaving, I was given a twin blade safety razor with cartridges and that was that. I don't know why my Dad wouldn't have shown me the other kind, because that's what he used. But, I managed to find out about them on my own, and I'm glad I did, because I never went back to the cartridge style again. Well, I tried with little to no success a couple times over the years, but I always went back. I bought a Mach3, went back shortly after, bought a ProGlide ElZippo 5 blade things with a AAA trimmer in the handle, went back to single blade. In fact, now that I think about it, I don't remember ever seeing a can of shaving cream or gel or anything like that. When my Dad was teaching me, we used bar soap... Irish Spring to be exact. I did that for a long time too. I just didn't really see the need to switch. I was probably between 35 and 40 before I bought my first can of shaving cream, and that was only because I just stopped buying bar soap. I switched to shower gel, and on the sink I switched to liquid hand soap, neither of which proved to be any good for shaving, so I started buying shaving cream, then a couple years later I switched to shaving soap in a mug, which was a little tricky to operate so I got a lather brush, and I ended up with the exact setup I should have been using all along lol. The only thing I haven't tried is a straight razor, and my hand/eye coordination isn't near good enough to try, so I'm never going to!
Works like a lubricant to me and I will always have it in my home, garage, work and truck. Stops squeaks, lubricates and I love the smell. Win win all the way.
Just used it the other day as a penetrating oil to loosen a garden hose that was stuck to the wall spigot and stuck to a brass sprayer. It worked. The fittings were seriously frozen with lime and corrosion. Other than that I use it for removing really obnoxious adhesive. It's a lot less corrosive than goo gone/goof off if you need to clean plastic or painted surfaces. Good stuff, but like the guy says, not a lubricant.
I really like this one Jeff very informative thank you so much for sharing both your thoughts and your talents and the videos of course and as always shine on my friend kudos great great video
Penetrants on rusty nuts are mostly psychological. From my experience, the threads are bone dry even after repeated soaking overnight. The only things that make a difference are heat and impact motion.
this is absolutely true !! 2 objects severely bonded together by rust will not be penetrated by anything. Heat and hammering work, that is for sure, because you break the rust. I've tested on severe corroded rear axle systems. Soak in wd40. doesn't help. Break apart by hammering. And than you see the wd40 did not leave any marks of penetrating
Had issues with a commercial lock and eventually talked to a locksmith about it. Told him we had tried graphite lube, the dry puff bottle. He said to keep using that and he makes more money. Graphite slowly wears the tumblers because it's abrasive. Told me to use a better lubricant. Not wd-40. Not graphite. I enjoy your videos, thanks. Fred Z.
@@joshuabrown1323 yea lately I've been trying a heavy soap/water mix on the bandsaw. Like a poor man's milling machine coolant mix. Works great and chips don't stick everywhere. My ratio I use? Eh take a normal household cleaner bottle, add like a 1/2" worth of soap in it (5-6oz) and put like 2/3 the way with water. I just remove any excess water when I'm done with the blow gun.
Finally, someone who know what I have always known. WD-40 is decent as a temporary lubricant. It does have some penetrating oil qualities. One use of it is as an assembly lubricant, aka something to spray on bolts when you put things back together or install parts. But it is made primarily of deodorized kerosene and will evaporate, meaning the it has no permanent anti-sieze properties. Wonderful stuff it is, and you can use it to clean electrical connectors too. But it is what it is, and it is a cleaner, not a lubricant. I didn't need a talking bear to tell me all this stuff. Hee-haw!
One thing I didn't see you mention that we used to use WD-44 is we would buy the gallon and a zep spray bottle and spray down our concrete tools made for super easy cleanup even on the wheelbarrow after mixing
I'm sitting here watching a bear talk about WD-40? I need to get out more often.
a cartoon at that
...and here I thought bears all used Jigaloo
I'm glad you posted that comment as a for a while I thought I was hallucinating
but hes awesome!
There is no real shame in admitting to being a furry.
I'm 63 years old, and I'm watching a bear talking about WD-40. And I really am enjoying it.
I guess we never completely outgrow this kind of stuff.
61 here!
“Children of all ages...”
I just turned 62, and came straight to the comments because I have no patience with clickbait stories.
@@AJCsr Yes it is clickbait, but so charming and 1.5M views. True, there was no darkness but its limited lubricity.
Yeah, I'm 65. I had to run out to the shop and make sure he put my table saw back. I dint mind him using it but he"s got me wondering how he knew where the spare key to the shop was?
I just have to grin and Bear it I guess. * Peace Out Folks *
Fun fact. WD 40 was invented by an astronautics engineer who at one point worked for nasa. He developed it to displace water in space as mentioned in the video. He named it “Water Displacement test #40” which became
known as the shorter name WD-40. Took him 40 tries before he accepted the formula he liked as a final product.
Thanks for that. I was always under the impression that it was developed during WWII for taking care of guns and equipment and stuff. Had no idea it was made for the space program.
I am from New Zealand. I didn't realize that WD-40 made other aerosol products. I new that WD-40 was designed for Water Displacement. We get CRC (Cyclic Redundancy Check) they make 5.56 lubricant for different types (food grade, marine, low oder etc) The CRC brand also make spray paints Zinc it (grey/black) spray on glues, 808 Silicon Spray, Contact Cleaner. I'm going to get some WD-40 spray as well.
Actually they hit the right mix after the 3rd try but WD 3 didn't sound good to the marketing people so they went with WD 40 for sales /marketing reasons. BTW it NOT approved for aviation use. It's a solvent, not a lubricant.
@@thomaspusateri2028 It was used in aerospace to prevent corrosion and rust, nothing to do with lubrication.
During the gulf War, my M-60 machine gun kept getting surface rust unless I cleaned it daily (we were right on the gulf coast). I used WD40 to clean it one day and it never got surface rust again.
Wd is water dispersant formula 40 designed for nasa. By repelling moisture it stops rust. Also good to spray
Electrical connections on 4x4 as keeps water from killing ignition. It has some ouls in it but it not a lubricant it is water dispersant
We had to use Rain-X
Have you ever heard about WD - 40 applied to crayon marks on a wall?
A little know fact the applicator straw is designed to disappear just when you finally need it. lol
I crazy glue that straw in
jim halcom when the can runs dry if the straw is still around it goes into my right top drawer just to make sure and it’s never alone
that is why when the can is empty, I keep the straw in a special bin marked applicator straws, another marked spray nozzles and so on
What I do is put a tie strap around the can, then you can slip the straw in the small gap behind the small buckle. Never fails me.
Mr. Ed reusable too; I know what it was designed for so I usually grab whatever’s next to it on shelf and they have applicator straw too BUT WD-40 now has many sister products to choose from
One of the first WD40 marketing campaigns I remember was to use WD40 to drive water out of spark plug wires and distributor caps. At the time I was a teen with 2 dirt bikes and truly when you ride through puddles or deep streams the plug wires would get wet and stop the engine. Back then most cars had a lot of room under their hoods and poorly designed roads also were prone to rain water ponding up and the tires would soak the engine compartment. WD40 did work well to drive the moisture from the plugs, wires, and distributors. I was saved from sitting in the woods for hours waiting for my bike to dry off many times. I worked at a service station when I got a little older and we would use it to start drowned cars on service calls. It saved a number of tows.
I've been told it is a decent starting fluid for 2 cycle motors and diesel engines though I've never tried it for that.
I've been using a product called SCREWLOOSE by CRC for penetrating rusted and over-tightened fittings. It works good, is FDA approved for food plants, and doesn't stink like one of the other competitors product.
Another use of the silicone spray lube is to spray the foam rubber door gaskets of your car to keep your doors from freezing shut in the winter. You just have to read the can and make sure it's only silicone spray lube you're getting and that they haven't tossed in a few "extras" that wind up destroying the door gasket instead.
Residential electrician here. You taught me a lot here and I have gone through the video about a handful of times in the last year, not only because it’s interesting, but I’m showing family,friends and colleagues. Using the WD to get the rust out of tools now and following it up with silicone spray. Thanks again for the info. Will continue to share.
it's also good for maintenance on plastics and rubbers, cleaning and durability including softening.
Careful with the silicone spray for wood working tools. Once transferred to the wood, the wood will never take a stain or finish.
All absolutely true and what I have been saying for years (ex mechanic) You missed one though and I discovered this years ago - WD40 is great on an oil stone for sharpening blades, the stone does not get clogged and u can feel the abrasion when sharpening much better than with a heavy oil :-)
Great point. Before switching to ballistol I used to use WD40
Nice, Time to go Sharpen the, ye old katana blade
Yes, great as a lubricant on sharpening oil stones and WD-40 works well with wet & dry sandpaper instead of water when removing rust from metals.
It keeps the oil stone clean
i ran out of ky lube and used 3 in one oil, we ended up having triplets, thank god l never used wd40
Lol!
Never put a petroleum product in a vagina.
3 in 1 is owned by WD-40
Ahhh.... That explains it... now i know why I have no idea what I'm doing. I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil....
It might burn
Wise bear. I love WD-40, but I also have graphite, silicone, and lithium lubricants. I was actually really surprised a few months ago when a friend of mine asked if I had some WD-40 because he had a sticking door lock in an old dodge truck of his. I gave him some graphite, and he had never even heard of it.
According to an old auto shop instructor, WD 40 was first used to displace water from distributors during ww2 because when the trucks and armor went through a storm they had problems with water getting into point ignitions and ground them out. It went with the troops in to the front lines.
That’s true
@@billprezioso3677 Yep. I've always found it to be a good long lasting lubricant so I don't really know where that comes from.
Bullshitt
Caution with silicone lubricant in any area you might want to repaint in the future. It is very difficult to totally remove using any solvent, and any remaining silicone will tend to prevent paint from sticking
And it will also cause the paint to fish-eye!
A coating company went and painted buildings in my city with a silicone based coating,,, this was marketed as “ Anti Graffiti” and “Easy Wash” which is true. But when they want to repaint…. Ya. The only way I got silicone coatings off exterior buildings was to do HOT water pressure washing. It was about a sqft in about a minute. It all came off but left a silicone pile on the side walk and little flakes floated onto cars near by (easy rinse off). I was so Happy when we started painting felt ,,, so easy. Hahah
@@BlossomPainting Woodworkers warn against using silicone coatings on wood working tools to prevent them from rusting. Any silicone that transfers to the wood will prevent the wood from taking a stain or finish. A "No-No" for chisels, hand saws, table saw tops...etc.
WD-40 has limited uses, that much is very true. However, the 'Smart Straw' fitted to the new cans has lots of uses. When your can is empty, pull it off the can and save it. You'll be surprised how many other aerosol cans it will fit!
Great video. Couple points, WD40 Is actually a decent penetrating lubricant AVE and Project Farm both tested it against a slew of other penetrating lubes and it did very well, was consistently in the top 3 or 4 out of a dozen. As a mechanic I can say my anecdotal evidence supports that. Secondly the MSDS says it's 35% petroleum oil..so it absolutely lubricates, but as stated it's kind of a jack of all trades. Great item to keep around
I seem to remember some time ago they had to remove any claims to lubricator.. When it boils off, what’s left? It certainly ain’t 30% oil, it may be good whilst it’s boiling off at penetrating but it’s far better at cleaning.. I suspect any oil in WD40 is being gassed off, since it literally leaves nothing behind to lubricate one the boiling has finished..
It smells nice though…!
I mix it with trans-hydraulic oil for stick-ability and durability.
The best thing about these vids is the instead-options given. This is truly an informative channel. Many thx. The key to my door was jamming badly and one shot of graphite spray in the key hole left it better than new.
Years ago I had an old military jeep that wouldn't start when it was foggy or damp. WD40 was introduced for displacing water and waterproofing ignition systems. That was my introduction to WD40 and it worked amazingly well.
Any Volkswagen owner can vouch for that.if they figured out there was moisture in the distributer..
@RabbleBarkMoo --- Many years ago, I drove tow trucks for the Auto Club. And during rainy seasons' many drivers would go too fast through standing water at intersections, which would slash water onto the exhaust manifolds, causing steam which would find it's way into the distributor cap and kill the motor. Whip off the distributor cap, spray wd40 inside, slosh it around, dump it out & no more water!! Drivers thought we were the greatest!
@RabbleBarkMoo It displaces water. An ignition system is passing a high voltage, low current load: any water acts as a conductor and shorts the ignition. Ever wash your engine in a car wash and had trouble starting afterwards? Spray wd-40 and the engine fires right up. The ozone in the air eats at the insulation of the ignition system. You can see this at night in the dark look at a running engine and watch the sparks jumping from the ignition wires. After a rain storm you can stand by a big puddle and fix stalled cars for profit using only wd-40.
Nah I used Wire Dry specifically designed for wires and ignition. then of course they discontinued it and was always hesitant of using anything else as alot of products are conductive or destroy spark ignition wires
@@rogerd4559 Wire Dry on the shelf at Autozone!
I use WD-40 for some of my tools. My garage is damp, so I spray WD-40 on my pliers, hammers, etc. to keep them from rusting. It's also a good cleaner for certain things.
Thanks for this, useful and informative. The only thing I'd argue with is the statement that it's not good on seals, plastic or rubber. Anecdotal, I know, but I've winterised my motorcycle every year by emptying a can of WD40 ALL OVER the bike every fall. I've done this for 25 years! During that time, I've never had a fork seal fail, a hose burst or any other seal related failure. Rather than attack rubber and plastics, WD40 seems to keep them flexible and protects from perishing. Just my 2c based on my personal experience! 🙂
Good comment.
3 life hacks I've learned with WD-40.
1) It is EXCELLENT at removing crayon or marker streaks your toddler makes on a flat screen TV. Just spray a paper towel a little, and wipe away.
2) Also VERY good at removing pretty much anything off a painted drywall. Crayon, pencil, pen, etc. Gone.
3) Bears right on about using WD-40 for door hinges. Instead, use a baby butt paste like Desitin or the creamier variety. Works WAY better, and lasts for months that way.
Lucas Oil Chain Lubricant for bicycles, Scotchgard for waterproofing, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster for rusty bolt lubrication and finally 3-N-1 Oil for lubricating your tools.
Tanks man!
I spray it in the tail lights of my trailer when I changed a bulb.
It prevents water forming rust and oxidization of the lead of the bulbs, that makes them stop working.
I never knew this about WD...em"bear"assing...
😂😂😂😂😂🙂👍🏾💯
Made me feel a bit grizzly
Personally I have found WD40 Dry PTFE great for hinges and locks. A lot of locksmiths advise against graphite now for locks. I was told by a few locksmiths that graphite is too abrasive.
Agree...I use similar Tri-Flow TF20006 Superior Lubricant PTFE...great stuff
1:17 It's ok little buddy... even humans struggle with that one. I'm impressed you're wearing a button-down, let alone speaking English!
Dude that bear looks exactly like he sounds.
Well played
I agree
Truth!
😂😂😂👍
Yes, he is adorable, too!😁😁😁He nearly skips a beat
As a water dispersant it did one thing well. On old distributors with points, any moisture, would render it NFG. Pop the two clips, lift the cap, spray with WD-40, reinstall and it’s now a runner.
Good tip if you have something with points.
Spraying WD-40 on wet ignitions works great.
Jimmy Kraktov 3 Spraying silicone spray on a wet ignition works better and NEVER do you have a water issue EVER again. Not so with WD40.
A propane torch works better and leaves no residue.
Did I just watch a video on WD40 by a talking bear? Nah must have been dreaming..never mind
@tan j maz Or to muck Jack D
That’s what happens when you use t as a nasal mist
I thought I was trippin' just like those old high school days.
"0ughta' be on méth !
Literally was thinking the same thing.
WD 40 makes a good deodorant and after shave to attract real women
been saying that for years under arm chicks think you own a Hot rod 🤣👍
@@horsesrule8568
☝️😜😂😂😂😂
My wife prefers diesel fuel.
Hoppes #9 works good also.
if you have tight nuts and rusty balls this will loosen things up so they slide in and out easily. makes screwing a pleasure.
I bought a new pair of leather boots that I regularly treated with mink oil. They lasted 12 years of daily use and were resoled twice.
For any kind of electric motor, that is slowing down, like high speed fans, bathroom fans, and sewing machines and the only one recommended by Singer, is "3 in 1 oil" also sold under the Singer brand. That stuff is absolutely awesome.
WD 40 will actually dry out internal parts that need to be kept lubricated . It's good for loosening and cleaning things up , but add a proper long lasting lubricant after.
I made the mistake of lubricating my heater motor bearings with WD-40. It seized 6 months later
I made that mistake when lubricating my heater motor when overhauling it.it lasted 6 months then seized
true! it dried out my friends internal parts
WD-40 makes a great handheld flamethrower when paired with a Bic lighter !
a kid in a gas station showed me that I thought it was so cool, then I was told that the can could ignite and blow up in his face
@@rogerd4559 that scenario is highly unlikely ! :] ]
GT 85 is better
A very stupid irresponsible remark from an idiot!!!
Yeah --especially if you don't want to shovel snow on the sidewalks.
For hazy oxidized aluminum stock off the rack. Maroon Scotch-brite and WD-40 shines it up like a mirror.
One use I found was removal of graffiti on my color bond fence. Worked like a charm. Depends on the pen used I guess too. But it wouldn't come off with other things I tried.
I have all those different lubes and some lol!!!
White lithium grease is what I have my crew use on their hedge trimmers. It Coates the blades and stays on there. Mostly I use WD-40 as a “cleaner”, blasting the grime out of tools and what not. Then, I actually apply the correct lube. Great vid !
Maxima makes some nice motorcycle chain lubes these days.
Dry/no tack kinda stuff and another decent one lol I can't think of ..maybe check em out
Thanks, going to get that for mine.
I've W40 whenever I encounter rust problem. I am happy using it.
WD-40 Dry Lubricant is preferred for shop tools since it dries "dry" and does not attract dust/sawdust. White Lithium in a table saw would be a disaster.
It dries up and its gone but causes hinges to squeak later on
Tried them all over many years.- WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC, etc. The one that always worked best for me to break loose a rusty bolt was Liquid Wrench.
When I was in the Fleet Air Arm in the 70s/80s, it was labelled Rocket WD-40, it had a rocket with a yellow and blue chequered pattern around it on the can similar to that on some NASA rockets and it was often shortened to just 'Rocket', 'Dubs 40' or just 'Dubs'. It was expensive so we were encouraged to use PX-24 instead whenever possible which came in five litre bottles and was put in a hand spray and was used to spray on an aircraft's skin after a freshwater wash, especially if it had been flying over the sea. I never really knew what the difference was but always thought that PX-24 smelled a bit like coconut. I remember being told that WD-40 was a dry lubricant in that its lubrication continued after it had dried.
I have to say that I'm a bit disappointed with the current delivery systems for WD-40. The folding straw spray heads that I have used are incapable of giving a momentary spray, no matter how hard I try, an instant of a press always gives about two or three seconds of spray. And the hand spray bottles are a total failure - whether they have a rubber seal which perishes or something, I don't know but after a while, pumping the trigger just results in a handful of WD-40 and nothing hitting the target. So, I decant WD-40 into a small bottle for manual application and keep an old fashioned can around for difficult areas.
Having been reminded of PX24 by my comment above, I discovered that it was still available so I bought five litres to use on my car the same way that it was used on aircraft, i.e. as water/dirt repellant. I regret to have to say that the product I received, whilst it probably does its job, smells disappointingly nothing like coconut.
,
I bought a can with the attached straw when Lowe's switched to them. Terrible. No control over what was coming out. So I got a gallon can, pour it into my own container, and use as needed. Made me want to buy another brand without that thing!
I like the design of the straw now, because it never gets lost and you can just fold it down for more of a general application, but like you, I think it fails miserably when it comes to trying to give like a half burst, where we used to be able to trickle it out of the can. These new triggers are either full on or full off, and there's no middle ground.
@jack tarr I still think of helicopters as cabs almost 40 years after leaving the RN. I was only thinking of the rag bales we used to get a few days ago. About 50% were useless synthetic material that wouldn't soak up anything. Sometimes you'd get a bale which was all synthetic in which case most of the PX24 went down your sleeve.
I first used WD 40 in Vietnam. Daily we used quarts of it for machine guns and 20 mm cannons on river patrol boats. In a jungle climate of frequent rain and constant humidity it was mandatory if you wanted weapons that worked. They did. So I still have an affection for WD 40.
My uncle says he owes his life to WD40 keeping his guns going in Vietnam. Without it he said he'd have been up a creek. To this day he still drenches his guns in it because he lives on the Delaware Bay and the salt and humidity is brutal here. Last but least thankyou for serving.
we did one better in Vietnam. we used the synthetic Huey tranny oil to fry our chicken up in the "Boonies", but alota guys started twitchin funny and convulsing often so we stopped using it for cookin!
@@rogerd4559 Reminds me of cooking by using C-4 plastic explosive sticks. They burn well, like Sterno. The first time I saw a guy doing this I got further confirmation of the crazyland I signed up for. Still crazy. I left Vietnam but it never left me.
@@southjerseysound7340 Odd I never saw one drop of WD-40 in Vietnam and I was a helicptor mechanic, but some guys would cook with the Huey tranny fluid but later developed nerve damage so they quit that
@@malcolmmarzo2461 Aww! what a waste of C-4 I could use some for my thieving friends to booby trap my tool box!
I buy it by the gallon and use it when machining aluminum on the lathe or mill. It keeps the chips from sticking to the cutter. Same when hack sawing aluminum, spray some on hacksaw blade and it keeps the blade from gumming up with aluminum. Great stuff.
Is WD-40 a good cutting oil when sawing or drilling metals?
@@chrisgraham2904 I use in when cutting aluminum on the lathe or mill. I works well to keep the metal from sticking and gumming up the tool bit. On steel, I use high sulfur cutting oil.
It also makes a pretty good fish attractant.
Also, it is AWESOME for polishing copper and aluminium.
The only time I’ve used wd-40 in an automotive setting was when replacing the suspension of a 1980 fj cruiser. (I went through 6 hacksaw blades on 2 bolts) the wd-40 was used to loosen the rusty bolts and weaken the rubber for two weeks before I removed the bolts holding the original hardware on the truck.
For 2 weeks? Did you reapply everyday or what?
Its like hes never heard of brakefree.... wd works but it would have only needed 2 hours of soaking if you used the right product
"hold the horses on that one, just slow down okay." Thanks i did cause its expensive. Now i know which is really the best!
I'm not a huge WD40 fanboy. Especially after reading various reviews of it. But all the very old (1950's) firearms my father left me he used only WD40 on after cleaning, and they all have no rust.
Hey Bear, you talk alot more sense than many fellow humans I know . Great work buddy 🐻👍
Yup i wish they used that straw design on all spray bottles 🙌
I find it three-in-one oil works quite well for door hinges and keeping them from squeaking, keeps them from squeaking
I'm too lazy for that. I just rub a finger tip of butter on the hinge. ;)
@P. Hamilton Butter? yea. last a couple of years too.
I used to use it for general purpose lubricating but now I use it to clean my tools and then I use the dry lube. White lithium spray is great for battery terminals but I use NOCO for that. PB blaster Surface Shield is the best for rust prevention.
I was using a power file with a sandpaper belt on it, and the belt kept jumping off. I checked the front bearing and it wouldn’t move at all- seized solid. I sprayed some WD40 on it and it freed up immediately, I couldn’t believe it! I thought the bearing had collapsed, but there you go- it’s just amazing to have around.
WD40 is both a lubricant and a dessert topping.
and a cologne
And a sex lube!
Don't tell me.
.....you graduated high school in 1975. 😁
I liked SNL back then.
@@randywl8925OMG are you psychic? I did! Too funny!!
@@OnerousEthic PM me and I'll tell you where to send the $20 fee.
Oh, and you're 63 years old. That will be another $20. 😁
I use WD-40 on all my black plastic panels under the hood of my car. Turns them from that oxidized gray back to black. Works awesome!
Transmission fluid works better
I used to work on the Atlas Rocket program! It was reputed that in 'the old days' they would take a couple of gallons to the top of the rocket and dumps it evenly over the cone. It would drip down all around where an entire crew would be at each level of work platform rubbing with 'clean-wipes' tp spread the oil over the surface.
PTFE dry film is good for many rubber and synthetic seal surfaces and door/cargo hinges. It leaves a thinner, harder protective layer than silicone. It's a preferred lube in the RV industry.
Clicked for the dark secret, stayed for the Talking Bear.
I used WD to loosen up a rusted old vise some gave me a few years ago. I like PB Blaster as well. I use lithium for lubrication. A1 oil is good, too.
Thanks for showing those product, it helps a lot.
Nice rundown of various products, very useful. Thank you!
WD40 is a good lubricant for milling, drilling, and tapping aluminum.
I use washing up liquid.
Cooking spray works better on aluminium
(Rubbish)
Been only using it to disperse water in distributor cars for 50 years.
Another one! Bad use of WD40... Which, as the bear mentioned regarding the hinges, just congregates the crud and traps water.
NEVER use WD40 on ANYTHING electrical, espeically a HV ignition circuit.
Use isopropyl to clean electrical gear. If one must coat the distributor cap, use an electrical (non-conductive) lacquer, or silicone spray; silicone is a very efficient moisture dispersal agent, one reason why it is used on all manner of aquatic equipment. A small smear of silicone grease, also acts as a pretty good 'demister' for one's diving mask.
.
WD40 has only one or two key uses - to clean rusty tools and parts and to help free rusted fastners, that said, many occasions, I've still had to apply heat to expand the fastner before it will deign to move. Otherwise keep well away from flame and electrics.
Scotty Kilmer, is that you?
lol... I used to do that all the time with my MRK2 Escort. It was that good I couldn't wait to try it on my mates MG Metro... ended up blowing the cap off lol. He was kinda pissed off with me for a week or so!
As a IBM mainframe tech for 30 years I can tell you it was recommended for cleaning all the electrical/circuit connectors, coincidentally my accounts included General Dynamics Convair,
VERY GOOD! ... might want to add that after cleaning process a VERY SMALL dab of dielectric grease ensures favorable contacts and deters recurring corrosion.
I had a neighbor in Idaho who was trying to start a JetSki in his driveway. He had a garden hose hooked to the jet pump which circulates water through the engine and then exits out the exhaust. Long story short, the engine was flooded with water. We pulled the plugs and they were soaked with water. Well neither of us had a compressor to dry the plug, so I suggested WD40. We shut off the water, turned over the engine to pump the water out of the plug holes, sprayed the plugs with WD40 to get the water off the plugs. repeated several times and got the JeySki running. It worked great to "dry" the plugs. He was amazed that WD40 did the job.
Good lord that's insane...thanks for sharing with the class.
Considering that's what it was the one thing it was designed to do it actually does that pretty well
@@dustinpomeroy8817 ya it does..I was breaking balls.
There's other stuff that works better though
I also use it after honing cylinders. It removes the fine metal and stone particles from honing.
Thanks for the eads up mr. Bear👍 I was always particular with silicone lubricant... and the mink oil for the leather shoes is the right one.
I saw this & had to comment! I have a nice home machine shop & living where there is always high humidity rusting of fine tools/machines is always a problem. I don't allow wd40 in my shop period because invariably it starts rusting within 2 weeks. Having done a substantial rust preventative study when working @ GE as an engineer. I tried 25 different rust preventative on cleaned steel plates. The winner for rust prevention was CRC-SP400 having kept the steel rust free over 6 months. WD was in the 1 week range , if lucky , Someone once told me that originally wd-40 was wing deicer - 40 degrees, don't know if true but makes sense on the surface. Also Sp350 is a thinner version for micrometers ect
PB Blaster... displaces water quite well actually. Has a tendency to also go where you do NOT want it to go as well- but that is precisely what it was designed to do- PENETRATE!
I am still using WD39, can't wait for WD41 to come out, they say if you spray the front of your car you will get an extra 5mph - can't be bad....
Motor oil is good for bicycle chains. Used it all time back in 70s when didnt have all these different lubes and all. Soak in oil then hang above a container for it to drip dry into. Still use that on my bikes today
Great instruction! Thanks for all this....
I’m gonna try some of these. This was highly informative,,, thank you very much for making this video.
Yes, exactly. I seen a manager break a key from wd40 at a Pizza Hut. I explained that I use it as a degreaser, and that they stripped away the pins grease.
Ha Ha. the lubricant for locks & pins is dry Graphite powder. If you are going to make stuff up at least be plausible.
I like to use "Balistol" oil. Some people still call it "Waffenöl". In18 Hundred something the German Kaiser wanted something for his Soldiers. That would avoid rust on weapons, would also grease them, but could also be used on all the leather gear and fabric to impragnate that to keep it maintained and also could be used to treath wounds. One company came up with a solution that actually worked. And so that name stuck until today still... Waffenöl translated actually means "Weapons oil"
It does not harden. It is good for your skin and is a great cleaner to get stuburn stuff off your skin where you normally would use very aggressive (to your skin) stuff on. In fact: if you drink it, nothing bad will happen. It can be used for A LOT of applications other than the original applications. I.e. all precions gears (i.e. Sewing machines) love that stuff.
I find it a pity that people forget about the old stuff. I also did not use it for some years until I had an issue with a preivous WD40 application which now had an issue with that stuff hardening and getting sticky (Which I knew it does, but didn't think materred, but it did.)
Its good advice.
Use PURE silicon grease/spray on your car window rubbers to prevent them freezing up in winter, this is also good to keep your car door rubbers free from frost in the winter.
You know what's absolutely fantastic at protecting metals from surface rust and corrosion? Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube. It's a dry lube so it doesn't leave behind a greasy, oily mess that attracts dirt, dust, and grime, and it is insanely good at protecting metal. I use it to preserver all of my reloading dies and the ones that were treated new, still look new.
I often use Ballistol 🇩🇪. It's safe on metals, leather(not suede), plastics-polymers, rubbers. I use it on guns 🔪 tools, door hinges car 🚗, etc.
Been using some to give a spit shine on a lawnmower decks before selling.
Shine on
The first time I used it was March 1968 when my Marine Corps unit 3/27th. Marines was sent to Vietnam for the TET Offensive. We arrived with M-14s and switched over to M-16 s and that was the lubricant we used. Semper Fi. L/ cpl Thomas Fuleky
Good bike chain lube that someone showed me over 30 years ago-- automatic transmission fluid (any type). Thin enough to get into the chain but not heavy enough to attract a lot of dirt. After you lube the chain, run the pedals backwards while holding a rag on the chain. This gets rid of excess lube. The smallest container of ATF will last you for years.
WD40 kept my Jeep's cylinder head from rusting for around 8 months while it sat on the bench. It dried to a film. I was happy.
True...I used it to coat an exhaust manifold.. wrapped it in plastic wrap and it's been sitting for over a year... not a spec of oxidation on it....👍
I tried that on my tractor cowl after sandblasting and the damn thing rusted anyway
I mainly use it in keeping my collection of vintage Gillette double edge razors in good working order especially the Twist to open ones
Gillette? Aren’t you worried about toxic masculinity?
I've never used WD-40 on my razor. I still have a couple Gillette Sensor razors that take those twin blade cartridges. I want to say I got those in the late 80s. I haven't used them in ages, but I wouldn't be surprised if they still made those refills. I know as recently as five years ago, they still made them, and even then, they should have probably declared them obsolete lol.
I only have one of those twin edge razors that you twist the bottom to open up the top to clean and replace the blade. The nice thing about those is the blades are universal, and because soooo many companies have made them over the years, unless everyone got together all at once and decided to stop making blades for them, they'll never go obsolete. When I first started shaving, I was given a twin blade safety razor with cartridges and that was that. I don't know why my Dad wouldn't have shown me the other kind, because that's what he used. But, I managed to find out about them on my own, and I'm glad I did, because I never went back to the cartridge style again. Well, I tried with little to no success a couple times over the years, but I always went back. I bought a Mach3, went back shortly after, bought a ProGlide ElZippo 5 blade things with a AAA trimmer in the handle, went back to single blade. In fact, now that I think about it, I don't remember ever seeing a can of shaving cream or gel or anything like that. When my Dad was teaching me, we used bar soap... Irish Spring to be exact. I did that for a long time too. I just didn't really see the need to switch. I was probably between 35 and 40 before I bought my first can of shaving cream, and that was only because I just stopped buying bar soap. I switched to shower gel, and on the sink I switched to liquid hand soap, neither of which proved to be any good for shaving, so I started buying shaving cream, then a couple years later I switched to shaving soap in a mug, which was a little tricky to operate so I got a lather brush, and I ended up with the exact setup I should have been using all along lol. The only thing I haven't tried is a straight razor, and my hand/eye coordination isn't near good enough to try, so I'm never going to!
Works like a lubricant to me and I will always have it in my home, garage, work and truck. Stops squeaks, lubricates and I love the smell. Win win all the way.
Just used it the other day as a penetrating oil to loosen a garden hose that was stuck to the wall spigot and stuck to a brass sprayer. It worked. The fittings were seriously frozen with lime and corrosion. Other than that I use it for removing really obnoxious adhesive. It's a lot less corrosive than goo gone/goof off if you need to clean plastic or painted surfaces. Good stuff, but like the guy says, not a lubricant.
Mr Bear, 🐻 Thank you so much for also adding what you should use. Saving this for future reference and also subscribed 👍
The bear drank it, loosened up his voice box, awesome stuff!!
Fixed my door lock today. Had so many issues, was about to replace it, which costs a fortune. Buttload of Wd40 and it's good as new. I love the stuff.
I use it when using carbide bits on aluminum, also when taping threads in aluminum.
I really like this one Jeff very informative thank you so much for sharing both your thoughts and your talents and the videos of course and as always shine on my friend kudos great great video
Penetrants on rusty nuts are mostly psychological. From my experience, the threads are bone dry even after repeated soaking overnight. The only things that make a difference are heat and impact motion.
this is absolutely true !! 2 objects severely bonded together by rust will not be penetrated by anything. Heat and hammering work, that is for sure, because you break the rust. I've tested on severe corroded rear axle systems. Soak in wd40. doesn't help. Break apart by hammering. And than you see the wd40 did not leave any marks of penetrating
yes! nothing like a quality Ingersol Rand impact wrench and some WD-40
Had issues with a commercial lock and eventually talked to a locksmith about it. Told him we had tried graphite lube, the dry puff bottle. He said to keep using that and he makes more money. Graphite slowly wears the tumblers because it's abrasive. Told me to use a better lubricant. Not wd-40. Not graphite. I enjoy your videos, thanks. Fred Z.
Wow bro you defined why I use it as a cleaner, I didn't understand why it works for cleaning the engine parts. But you clarified my why 🔥🙌🏼
It's also good as a cutting lubricant/coolant. Great for manual milling aluminum to prevent chip welding
That's what I use it for more than anything else lol
Believe it or not but dawn dish soap is way better to use as a lubricant and keeps drill bits from getting to hot
For milling aluminum I found automatic trans fluid works better and is cheaper
@@user-neo71665 , very true.
@@joshuabrown1323 yea lately I've been trying a heavy soap/water mix on the bandsaw.
Like a poor man's milling machine coolant mix.
Works great and chips don't stick everywhere.
My ratio I use?
Eh take a normal household cleaner bottle, add like a 1/2" worth of soap in it (5-6oz) and put like 2/3 the way with water.
I just remove any excess water when I'm done with the blow gun.
Finally, someone who know what I have always known. WD-40 is decent as a temporary lubricant. It does have some penetrating oil qualities. One use of it is as an assembly lubricant, aka something to spray on bolts when you put things back together or install parts. But it is made primarily of deodorized kerosene and will evaporate, meaning the it has no permanent anti-sieze properties. Wonderful stuff it is, and you can use it to clean electrical connectors too. But it is what it is, and it is a cleaner, not a lubricant. I didn't need a talking bear to tell me all this stuff. Hee-haw!
The part that is left behing is primarily composed of Castor Oil
I always thought it was just a kerosene based product. Mostly cleaner, not much lube.
Thanks for the *bare* necessities. Great advice that I'll *bear* in mind. :)
One thing I didn't see you mention that we used to use WD-44 is we would buy the gallon and a zep spray bottle and spray down our concrete tools made for super easy cleanup even on the wheelbarrow after mixing
All I use wd for is to clean my dirt bike, best stuff ever made!
I use it when I mig weld. Spray your mig welder's nozzle. It keeps it clean and weld splatter will not stick
One of the best uses of WD40 I figured out on my own is wasps killer and repellent. One you spray it on wasp will never make a nest there again.
Imagining a can of WD40 walking down the R&D corridor and peeking in at a can of WD39 lying on a bed crying "Kill Me!"
"Alien - Resurrection" ✌️😝✌️