I used these post years ago. They are great and make putting up a wood fence fast and strong. I don’t own the house anymore. But I have seen it driving by, and the fence still looks great. That’s been over 15 years that I put the fence up.
I've done a number of wood fence replacements over the years. It's always been a matter of what the customer was willing to pay. In my own yard, I replaced the ratty basket-weave wooden fence with a new fence this summer. I wanted to use the posts you're talking about, but really couldn't find a good supplier locally, and once the train started rolling, well... I needed to get going quickly. I ended up using 8' 2 3/8" steel fence pipe posts. Since the ground was very rocky, I was unable to get them set as deeply as I wanted, so I had to drill into the rock and drive 1/2" rebar in; then concreting the pipes in place, they were super solid, and I expect they'll outlast me. I also used bottom trim, top trim, and a horizontal top plate (so critters can run freely without fearing dogs). To top it all off, I sprayed the entire thing, both sides, with clear water sealer. And, wouldn't you know it? Spent $2K on materials on the fence, and about $5K last summer redoing the back deck and adding an industrial steel deck cover and NOW the wife wants to move :(.
haha sorry that was pretty funny. well the new owners are going to love all the beautiful work you have done ;) God bless you sir. I am a wife myself and I hope I never do that to my husband unless for a really good reason. Jesus is LORD.
I started installing privacy fencing as a side job a few years back. And the biggest issue is NO ONE wants to spend more $$$ on a better fence. Even trying to convince people to use cedar pickets over PT pine was next to impossible. Pressure Treated pine pickets are horrible. They shrink alot more than cedar and become more brittle once they dry out. But almost everyone wanted it done for the absolute cheapest price. I couldn't imaging trying to get some one to buy into spending $40/post for metal vs $12/post for wood.
I've built a fair number of fences in the last 50 years. Early on, some fancy Japanese fences, with clear heart redwood, set in concrete..... yeah, they all rotted out fairly quickly. Within 10 years they were weak. Pressure treated lasts longer for sure, not quite as pretty. I put in a fence, (TALL at 8') where I attached it to fairly heavy chain link fence. That is still standing. But what I found is that by using brackets like Simpson column bases, the heavy duty kind, the fences were totally durable. I never do it any other way now. The beauty of the column bases is that I can use either a string or a laser, (easier) to set all the bases in a line. I put the two straps "along" the fence line, so that the post actually can be tapped in or out to be perfectly in line. This give you almost 1" (more than enough) adjustment. I dig the hole the required depth, throw some rebar in if I want to, and usually use a short piece of sono tube so that the concrete is a few inches OFF the ground. Don't want water standing on the bottom of the post. (take care to make sure that the actual base of the bracket is not below grade of the concrete. Pour all the concrete, use the string of laser to make sure the column bases are in line and square to the fence line. Let it set for a couple days. When attaching the posts, put the post in, (again, PT will last longer, but other wood will do "ok" as there is NO wood touching the ground. I put the post into the bracket then put a large C Clamp from one side of the bracket straps to the other, and tighten down a little. When the base is in the right spot, I use levels to make sure the post is plumb. If it isn't, tap it in place to be plumb, BOTH directions. The straps will slip on the wood enough so that it CAN be made perfectly plumb. Using the laser or string, you can make these posts PERFECTLY plumb and in line! Once they are, drill the holes for the bolts, (or if you prefer the SDS screw model, set the screws) and you have the posts solid and you can attach the rails. I now prefer to use the "concealed flange 2x hangers for the rails. They attach quickly, easily, and don't rot out like blocks will, or toe nailed ALWAYS rot out. Ok, I'm sure someone will say that column bases, even the heavy duty type I use, are not strong enough for a fence, on a 4x4 post. IF the post is 8' long above grade, Possibly not. If 6', it is. Is it as "stiff" as a post set in concrete? NO. Absolutely not, but 10 years later, it is still the same, and by then the other is getting loose and is not as stiff as the column base.... And 50 years later it is still fine and the one in concrete is only a memory. Also, I've had a couple where they were set near a driveway and a car hit the post and broke it. (one, an 6x6, was broken by a dozer) IF a post does get broken, normally you HATE pulling out that concrete and putting in new concrete. But with the column bases, you just unbolt the damaged post and put in a new one. Simple repair. I've done this method for probably 30 fences or pergolas , including 6 on my own property. They are all still standing and good as new, many are now close to 50 years old. YES, column bases are not cheap. $20 to $30 often each. And concealed flange hangers are not as cheap as toe nailing. But the durability, the repair ability, and the ease of construction make this method very good for most non professionals. I've seen even professional builders make fences that weren't plumb, or inline.
I need you to come build my fence :) Haha I’m just putting up a welded wire fence around my garden but want the posts removable and I think your method would make that possible 🤷🏼♀️ But it sounds like using column bases will get spendy, it’s costing a fortune to keep the dang deer out of my garden grrrrrrrr !
When you said you put the column bases' two flanges "along" the fence line, do you mean that the flanges are actually Perpendicular to a string line or laser line representing the fence line? I figure the flanges have to be perpendicular to allow you to tap the post toward you or away from you to fine-tune the alignment. If the flanges were in line with the fence line, you could tap the posts side-to-side for fine adjustment but I wouldn't think there is much need for that adjustment direction - unless you were off a bit in being 8' between posts. However, if the support flanges were perpendicular to the fence line, the disadvantage seems to be that you won't have the support flanges being able to help combat the back and forth impacts of high winds hitting the fence broadsides. Can you clarify what you meant?
We used these on all 3 sides in 3 consecutive years. They were fairly expensive, but I just told myself I’m never digging another post hole as long as I live, and it was worth it. The oldest side is almost 10 years old and has had zero problems. They are also very strong, and don’t move during high winds.
I purchased these for my fence replacement and think they are well worth the added expense. Really like the thin profile these offer and obviously the strength of being steel.
I have postmasters for my fence. Had hurricane come through on year 3 and they did move and parts of fence are crooked. A couple of them on the base rusted. I still have them but some of my fence leans. I can only assume it was a poor install and labor job. I've replaced the screws for the 2x4 into the post master with longer ones too. I think my installer could've done better.
Liking how easy it looks like these will be and the longevity. What do you do at corners when using this type of post? When looking at this particular style of post I did not see a corner version.
Thank you for showing that better post design. I have a fence built with 4x6 posts, not set at the proper ground height. I installed a pair of round posts to support 2 wood posts that were cracking off at the bottom, 20+ years after install. When the other posts go, I now know the proper fence posts for replacement. One thing I learned, with round posts the adapters can add a lot of expense. I like this, the beauty of wood w/ the post strength of steel.
the Master Halco posts are the way to fly. I'm a DIY'r and replaced my own fence when a storm here in Okla knocked my old one down. They are so much better looking than the tubular steel posts and they can be covered (by design) with a picket for a "finished look" on the exposed side of the fence. The only issue is getting them as a DIY guy vs being a contractor. I found that locally....the distributor is "not supposed to sell to the public", but they did anyway.
This is a very good concept. But it is nothing new. Back in the early 80s I had a neighbor that was a fence contractor. He used steel post and rails to make his wood panels. The post were never set in concrete. He would install sleeves into the ground, then the post sat in the sleeves. This way you could move the panels into different configurations around your property. It was a real nice setup, but it was big bucks back then. I couldn't imagine what it would cost now. Also thanks for sharing all your knowledge. But like other people have stated. It would be nice to see what you are talking about, being performed so we all can get a better understanding of your concept. I'm just getting ready to build a little 100' fence. But I already bought and sealed the 4x4 post. But for my next job I would really like to try your concept. Thanks again.
Absolutely love the channel. Putting steel posts in the ground makes so much more sense as my last 6x6 corner post warped. I gotta ask though $95 for one of the Halco posts? Am I looking at something wrong? Someone help me out here please.
30 years ago my fence was installed with round 2" steel galvanized posts with treated horizontal 2x4 lagged to the posts. Still going strong, couple a times a year I go around and reattach the pickets that have come loose.
I work for a fence company in Nova Scotia and all wood fences that we install use 6x6 wood post. Do you think it would be a good idea to suggest this post master post to the company?
When I built a fence if I could budget it I ran a 2X10 on the ground centered off the fence. I notched it out to slip down over the posts and it worked great to keep grass and weeds down along the fence line. Yes it was extra work but years after it was installed you could still run a mower over it to cut the grass that grew up to the 2X10. It looked good and worked well. My parents loved it after their fence was built and it made grass cutting easier.
You can also just cut a 1x3 or 1x4 ground contact and screw them horizontally through the fence pickets, even one on both side to achieve the same thing.
One other benefit is that they can support both vertical and horizontal fence styles, so you can switch your fence style up when you replace it in the future.
As a property manager I've replaced a few fences and yes, digging out old post and concrete gets real old, sometimes if possible I just design in new holes and move fence over a bit. Just cut down old post below ground level and cover. EZ But the only real problem I find is the ground line where water and air meet is the only place it rots. Above and below ground it last a real long time. Either no water above ground, or no air below so rot is reduced, just the ground line is where you get both and it rots. So Now I add a 2 inch or so collar of concrete above the ground line so it stays drier, does not rot much as far as I can tell or slows it down a lot. For $90-$100 per steel post, I can get a lot of high school kids to dig holes for me. Just too expensive. Dont let the wood post just come out of the ground, give it some protection with a concrete collar using a carboard tube to set the post in. This is real nice but hard to justify and extra $1000 or 2 for these steel post. $20-30 per is about all I'd pay.
To be completely fair, I've seen Metal posts snapped in Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado. Ours is 4" od 1/2" thick buried 4' in the ground, it isn't going ANYWHERE. lol
I use post master steel posts. They are as good as day one 19 years later. My neighbor on the east fence that was in before I put mine in is wooden posts. We've replaced 5 posts on that side and he already lost the entire back section. Metal, good quality ones like the u shapes ones are well worth the money. Great video.
I just put up a 100’ long fence last week using these for the first time. Yes, they were a bit expensive but the ease of installation and peace of mind that this fence will last a long time was worth it to me.
A great tip to save a lot of money on these posts: Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot. Purchase enough posts to get the contractor discount. I know at Lowe’s, you have to buy at least 20. Use what you need, and return the rest. You end up keeping the discount, and save $12-14/ post. Right now with the cedar prices skyrocketing, you’ll actually pay less for the steel posts!
@@Legobatmanmw3 , I needed 15 for my fence, it was cheaper to buy 20 posts due to the bulk discount but it says right on the receipt that if you return any, they will change the discount back. Anyway, a friend of mine is making a fence soon so he’s buying my remaining posts.
I love PostMaster posts. I built a fence for my Mom about 25 years ago. Standard redwood posts. They failed in around 15 years - totally failed! When I replaced the fence, I went with PostMaster posts. The real difference (I love to overbuild) was that before installing any of the rest of the fence (after the posts were set), I framed out and poured a 8' wide by 6' thick "footing" along the entire length of the fence. This went around the steel posts (isometrically around both sides) and keeps the new redwood fence from ever touching the ground. I went for a 3/4" gap above the new concrete. No grass, no dirt can ever get up to the fence boards without serious neglect. No wicking of moisture into the fence boards was the main idea. Of course it was an additional bit of work, but I seriously doubt that I will ever have to do anything to that fence while she is living there. Money/time well spent.
Wicking isn't the only issue if you have a lawn sprinkler and you'll also face splash during a light rain off of that concrete onto the bottoms. Rot is caused by cycling between WET and DRY, over and over and over. That's why the posts always rot right at ground contact: it's where the most frequent wetting/drying occurs. 2nd to that is the tops, where any sprinkle of rain gets 'em wet. since you have the grass off the bottoms, just spray the bottom 6" with preservative, and then the top 3", every year or two, and it'll double the life.
Here in Northern Nevada, these fence posts go for $35 ($30 if purchase 15 or more) at the local BORG stores. Went to a local fence contractor. Picked up the Postmaster+ (not the originals) for $39.
Burn or char the bottom of the wood fence post to prevent rotting and termite damage it’s an ancient Japanese technique many videos demonstrating it here on CZcams
@@69A12SuperBee Banned because it's carcinogenic. My father used to treat all his ground contact wood, but you can't buy it today, and for good reason.
@@69A12SuperBee you do realize you can't wave a "bush" over wood to preserve it right? Bushes or not, the chemical extracted is carcinogenic. I don't recommend boiling and eating the bushes.
I replaced my fence this spring and used these posts with cedar rails and pickets. Glad I did. I also covered the posts with a picket. These posts are very solid. I much preferred using these over round metal posts on the gate posts.
Round steel posts for your gate??? As long as the gate is in a run rather then at a corner or end, a 4x4 will not have an issue holding up to a 10 foot double panel gate. If the gate is at a corner or end, steel is not gonna make a difference anyway as the weight is gonna pull the post out of the ground.
We had our fence replaced and used steel poles, so glad we did, a neighbor’s tree fell on the fence, bent the poles and broke 3 pickets. Tree removed, straightened the post and replaced the pickets.
I have started building my 200 ft of fence with Post Master/Master Halco metal post. I like them...easy to use and seems very sturdy. Pickets will go bad before the post do. The cost diff is big, but for all the effort...might as well dish out more money and do it right. I am happy so far (only about 75 feet in...)
Thanks for all your videos and help… I need to post my work for you to see me in action lol … 👍🏽… When use metal post (both styles, flat post and round w/ brackets) what are a few tips or tricks installing them when or having access to one side of fence? Better to install that section of post backwards or pre build post and wood braces and stand them up together! Just was wondering…. Because I’ve done all types of things… some yards make US into wizards getting the job done right
I can definitely follow your logic, and appreciate it. Those are some nice looking examples. "Good fences make good neighbors" 😂 That's your side and this is my side! As long as I don't know you're there, we'll get along just fine. 😋 You did a great presentation. My constructive criticism is skip the asking for likes, subscribes, and bells at the beginning. You get that. Even at the end it's a bit gratuitous, people know what to do by now, but that's the place for it if you feel compelled to remind people. Blessings!
@joeeverest have you ever damaged the postmaster post from manually driving it? If so, how did you straighten that out so you don’t need to cut the top of the post
Sorry to say windspeeds around 100 kmh until 120 kmh 62-64 mhp are getting normal here in the fall and the beginning of spring so what i did is : drive sticks diagonally into the ground, and tension a rope between the fence and the stick in a loop put a stick through that loop and twist it tight so that the fence has more strength, you put the stick with which you tighten the rope into the ground...next time I will definitely use other posts than the wooden ones I have now
I need to fix my fence so I am going to look into using these to fix my fence. My verticle post have shifted and heaved up causing damage. I know how I am going to fix it now. Thanks. 😁
I am a fence builder and I prefer round posts they are much stronger then post masters and about half the cost, they are alot easier to do repairs on. You can easily just replace sections as needed. In Denver for an example a t-30 round post with brackets and screws runs you $20 these promaster I see them for about $34 each, that's a $14 difference per post which when doing a large fence makes a big difference.
@@JoeEverest I'm sure it also depends on the location, I use fence supply companies that sell them, I just can't get customers to want to pay the cost. I've seen first hand post masters mangled in after saver wind storms, but yet to see 2 3/8" t-30 aka lg30 do it, I just seen the whole panels ripped off and a couple of times brackets bent. I'm sure post masters are great though and would love to use them. Can you drive them in? I usually just drive lg30 3' down on corners and every third post and drive the other line posts 2- 2.5' down. I only us sch40 on our commercial jobs. I would really need to see a post master survive a bend test over a sch40 to believe it. That would be crazy.
@@brianmi40 Not at my lowes they are now $39 per post and $29 per post when you buy 20+. Schedule 40- 2 3/8 round post with brackets runs me now $23 once again a big savings especially for customers.
@@jr303official $23 doesn't include needed mounting brackets (3) to use round posts. Construction time is higher to attach brackets raising labor costs to ultimately be MORE EXPENSIVE, and you cannot conceal round posts without MORE brackets and the result is a way thicker fence.
@@brianmi40 The post is $18 the three brackets are $6.50 for the three and a cap, $1.50, so total is $26 and I drive them in with a post driver. So no holes and concrete. So it saves me time and labor and no concrete cost, so $26 vs $34. I have never had my fences fail although I have replaced these "postmates" posts. I have installed them at owners request but I prefer sch40.
i would have liked to have seen a post installed into the ground and also the cost of one of these post...also, how is the corner post going to look ?....these are things fence buyers/builders would like to know/see...thanks Joe
Does the steel need to go below the frost line like a wood post? do the width still need to be triple the width of post. So many questions. I really like this look! MO resident
$20 weed burner from Harbor Freight, and the propane tank from your BBQ grill. About 4 passes should get you through the summer... If you "accidentally" burn the surface of the wood, do a google search for Japanese "shou sugi ban" to preserve wood...
To stop fence post from rotting while or after you pour concrete in the hole for the post frame up (4) 2x4, (one one each side) about 4", (or use a 2x4 on its side and go 3-1/2") away from the post to have a 3-1/2" thick and tall block of concrete at the base of the post to keep the bottom of the post out of the water when it rains. You can make it pyramids shaped so the water runs off and away from the bottom of the post.
I've lived in hurricane country my whole life. I had a wood privacy fence with both wood and steel posts. Steel posts will rust and snap in high winds and wood posts will rot and break also. I prefer the wood posts being they hold up better in high winds.
How long do these post last? It kind of seems like the normal base rot that occurs overtime would allow these post to get pushed over by winds much more than earlier than the round post.
going to replace my fence here in Tampa FL this summer, knowing which post has better wind resistance and resistance to rot has made me decide to use steel posts.
I have never had a wood post fail on a wood fence I have installed, it has always been the picket that warps, rots, splits, and or simply shrinks and pulls apart or the horizontal brace they are mounted to regardless of sealing, painting/staining etc....in time they all do something that causes one to be repaired or replaced completely, but the post remains intact and I have installed many fences in my lifetime. ( not a professional fence installer either ) of course, I have not gone back to many places they were installed, BUT the wood posts around my property have never failed, I still have a few old locust posts that still stand today in my neighborhood with barbwire still attached from ages past. Just saying...LOL
This looks nice. So they designed it to increase tolerance and in return helps with structural strength/integrity and increase more useable area per ordinary post used. Hopefully it's cheap, I'm a go check some out.
Joe, we have a 42" frost line by code. I want to use metal posts for a finished 6' tall cedar fence. Do you recommend I still use concrete to set these, or can I just backfill with dirt since they are so deep? What is your experience with foam for metal posts?
How would I retrofit the Postmasters into an existing fence to replace a rotten 4x4 post? Would I need to also replace the cross beams because they’d be too short? Is there an ingenious attachment piece or wood joining method?
Thank you so much for your great videos. I'm in Marion, IA building my first fence after the Derecho. I'm using steel posts from Menards. Could you do a video on your suggestions for setting them and plumbing them? Can't figure out a good, quick way to stake them like a 4x4 wood post. Thanks!
Assuming you're dealing with fairly level ground and not trying to fence over hill and dale, I just screw a scrap of wood clearly wider than the hole in the ground to the post, mounted in chosen standard holes up from the bottom of the post that will give the desired bury depth in concrete and the wood will support the post from the ground on both sides of the hole where it's lined up with your string line to get a straight fence. Fill the hole with concrete on both sides of the post as someone holds it, use a level to check both ways and adjust as necessary to get upright and kissing the string, came back and checked it again after setting the next post, and posts were dead straight the next day. I was casually working my way across the yard, but if in a hurry you could just fasten the stringers and screw a support to resist tilting into a stringer also. They don't really wander much set in concrete properly mixed (i.e. not soupy). Some also use fast set concrete.
Great video, I had never seen the style of steel post as was used in that top view pic. It’s given me an idea how I want to rebuild a portion of our wood-post fence. Looking at building a shop where on side wall of the fence runs now, and extending the front wall forward and in various areas to enlarge the back yard to meet up with the shop building. These steel posts would be much easier to set than resetting the old posts (unlikely anyway) or buying new wood posts to set. Thank you for taking the time to explain the benefits. Subscribed!
I wish I could afford to use these steel posts but I've got 1.5 acres to fence and these costs $100/each for the size I would need. That adds about 3k plus or minus a bit.
Thanks for the great video. I'm in Michigan and am wondering about the best way to set these. The front line is 44 inches and I believe the taller post is 92 inches. What is the best way to achieve a privacy fence height while maintaining sturdiness?
I have the same question. I’m reading conflicting info. Some say you need to be below frost line, similar to your area, some say just follow the 1/2 to 1/3 rule depending on the fence height.
@Stride Endeavors I'm actually about to install my privacy fence and went with 10ft galvanized post. So I will be putting them about 4 feet in the ground or a little more than that.
I live on a hill in the northeast and we get hurricanes and blizzards so I need to get the strongest setup possible...im doing research now n plan to have a fence put in the spring...we want to go with vinyl but I have no clue lol ...great video tho...i will keep the steel posts in mind for sure
Why would you spend more, make a thicker fence, and it still not last as long as a galvanized steel post that is twice as thick as a 16 gauge round steel galvanized post for chainlink which easily last 20+ years? 6x6 8 ' #2 Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Timber, $39 Home Depot 7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
Pricewise alone, if paying for install, its worth it. If DIYing, not worth it as the price is 2x higher compared to their wood counterparts including concrete base.
Would those hidden posts work on a shadow box style fence that’s mandated by our HOA for high winds to pass through and on the coast with such bad rusting?
You know, obviously it's in an individual's perception but there is something nice about the structure of a fence too. Around here in front range Colorado, it seems there are many new fences being build to show the posts, not hide them. I have always preferred looking at the structure in combo with the fencing itself. When I built a treated wood fence 28 years ago (yes, a treated wood fence can last a long time. It's still in great shape with the old chemicals that was used then. I'm not saying that changing that treatment chemical was wrong. It was arsenic I believe. It's still that forest green, which I know many don't like, but I literally have never touched it with a paint brush in that whole time. I digress..) I didn't have any problem with the neighbor because I prefer the framing look. So, all of that said, I do like the idea of the longevity of a steel post but how do I bring it back to my eye? I saw April Wilkerson's video and how she boxed around steel posts, so I'm actually considering installing cylindrical steel posts to emulate that project, sans welding.
It doesn't look significantly different from a post if you have a wood cover over it. The only main difference is the longevity. How do I drive a nail into the steel post? I'm going to need a bigger hammer.
As opposed to wooden posts, where it’s important to take extra care to insure post are installed straight or everything will be difficult to install. 🤪
Interesting, haven't seen this type of metal post. I'm looking at ideas for a wire fence with wood/composite trim. This might work, other than for the gate
Good vid. For the DIYer like ne I'd use these as willing to pay more for clean look and stronger longer lasting. From that Pic id also take tge time to cut the board 'hiding' the post to fit in pieces above and below stringers fir an even more streamline look. Commercial guts not worth xtra time but diy worth it. Heck I created custom cut cedar panels to hide my fence menders that show above ground. Lolz
I have a question! 🙏 Can you establish the posts and their concrete foundations, in such a way that you can later extend the post to make it a taller fence? as in, I start it out as a LOW fence about 3-4 feet tall. But then if I want to make it a 6-7 foot fence later, I can still use that established concrete/post structure. I’m new to building, and am buying a house so forgive naïveté. I like the lower fences, but would like the option to make them taller at some point or at some part of the boundaries.
The orange makes it look like you're filming from the penitentiary but I still like your videos.
Or Home depot but I understand your confusion
“Hi, this is Joe coming to you from prison. Let me tell you my experience and why good fences make good neighbors. “
Same
@@muricanriot1376 you are STUUUUUUUPID🤣🤣🤣🤣
That shit cracked me up
Imagine the quality of fencing this guy will be building when he gets out!
I used these post years ago. They are great and make putting up a wood fence fast and strong. I don’t own the house anymore. But I have seen it driving by, and the fence still looks great. That’s been over 15 years that I put the fence up.
I've done a number of wood fence replacements over the years. It's always been a matter of what the customer was willing to pay. In my own yard, I replaced the ratty basket-weave wooden fence with a new fence this summer. I wanted to use the posts you're talking about, but really couldn't find a good supplier locally, and once the train started rolling, well... I needed to get going quickly. I ended up using 8' 2 3/8" steel fence pipe posts. Since the ground was very rocky, I was unable to get them set as deeply as I wanted, so I had to drill into the rock and drive 1/2" rebar in; then concreting the pipes in place, they were super solid, and I expect they'll outlast me. I also used bottom trim, top trim, and a horizontal top plate (so critters can run freely without fearing dogs). To top it all off, I sprayed the entire thing, both sides, with clear water sealer. And, wouldn't you know it? Spent $2K on materials on the fence, and about $5K last summer redoing the back deck and adding an industrial steel deck cover and NOW the wife wants to move :(.
Hahahahahahahaha. Awesome story!!! I feel for you
haha sorry that was pretty funny. well the new owners are going to love all the beautiful work you have done ;) God bless you sir. I am a wife myself and I hope I never do that to my husband unless for a really good reason. Jesus is LORD.
Welcome to the club. Where have we heard that before....?😅🙃☺️🙄
I started installing privacy fencing as a side job a few years back. And the biggest issue is NO ONE wants to spend more $$$ on a better fence. Even trying to convince people to use cedar pickets over PT pine was next to impossible. Pressure Treated pine pickets are horrible. They shrink alot more than cedar and become more brittle once they dry out. But almost everyone wanted it done for the absolute cheapest price. I couldn't imaging trying to get some one to buy into spending $40/post for metal vs $12/post for wood.
I've built a fair number of fences in the last 50 years. Early on, some fancy Japanese fences, with clear heart redwood, set in concrete..... yeah, they all rotted out fairly quickly. Within 10 years they were weak. Pressure treated lasts longer for sure, not quite as pretty. I put in a fence, (TALL at 8') where I attached it to fairly heavy chain link fence. That is still standing. But what I found is that by using brackets like Simpson column bases, the heavy duty kind, the fences were totally durable. I never do it any other way now. The beauty of the column bases is that I can use either a string or a laser, (easier) to set all the bases in a line. I put the two straps "along" the fence line, so that the post actually can be tapped in or out to be perfectly in line. This give you almost 1" (more than enough) adjustment. I dig the hole the required depth, throw some rebar in if I want to, and usually use a short piece of sono tube so that the concrete is a few inches OFF the ground. Don't want water standing on the bottom of the post. (take care to make sure that the actual base of the bracket is not below grade of the concrete. Pour all the concrete, use the string of laser to make sure the column bases are in line and square to the fence line. Let it set for a couple days.
When attaching the posts, put the post in, (again, PT will last longer, but other wood will do "ok" as there is NO wood touching the ground. I put the post into the bracket then put a large C Clamp from one side of the bracket straps to the other, and tighten down a little. When the base is in the right spot, I use levels to make sure the post is plumb. If it isn't, tap it in place to be plumb, BOTH directions. The straps will slip on the wood enough so that it CAN be made perfectly plumb. Using the laser or string, you can make these posts PERFECTLY plumb and in line! Once they are, drill the holes for the bolts, (or if you prefer the SDS screw model, set the screws) and you have the posts solid and you can attach the rails. I now prefer to use the "concealed flange 2x hangers for the rails. They attach quickly, easily, and don't rot out like blocks will, or toe nailed ALWAYS rot out.
Ok, I'm sure someone will say that column bases, even the heavy duty type I use, are not strong enough for a fence, on a 4x4 post. IF the post is 8' long above grade, Possibly not. If 6', it is. Is it as "stiff" as a post set in concrete? NO. Absolutely not, but 10 years later, it is still the same, and by then the other is getting loose and is not as stiff as the column base.... And 50 years later it is still fine and the one in concrete is only a memory. Also, I've had a couple where they were set near a driveway and a car hit the post and broke it. (one, an 6x6, was broken by a dozer) IF a post does get broken, normally you HATE pulling out that concrete and putting in new concrete. But with the column bases, you just unbolt the damaged post and put in a new one. Simple repair.
I've done this method for probably 30 fences or pergolas , including 6 on my own property. They are all still standing and good as new, many are now close to 50 years old. YES, column bases are not cheap. $20 to $30 often each. And concealed flange hangers are not as cheap as toe nailing. But the durability, the repair ability, and the ease of construction make this method very good for most non professionals. I've seen even professional builders make fences that weren't plumb, or inline.
I need you to come build my fence :)
Haha
I’m just putting up a welded wire fence around my garden but want the posts removable and I think your method would make that possible 🤷🏼♀️ But it sounds like using column bases will get spendy, it’s costing a fortune to keep the dang deer out of my garden grrrrrrrr !
Do you have a video or a photo of your method you can put up here on CZcams?
When you said you put the column bases' two flanges "along" the fence line, do you mean that the flanges are actually Perpendicular to a string line or laser line representing the fence line?
I figure the flanges have to be perpendicular to allow you to tap the post toward you or away from you to fine-tune the alignment.
If the flanges were in line with the fence line, you could tap the posts side-to-side for fine adjustment but I wouldn't think there is much need for that adjustment direction - unless you were off a bit in being 8' between posts.
However, if the support flanges were perpendicular to the fence line, the disadvantage seems to be that you won't have the support flanges being able to help combat the back and forth impacts of high winds hitting the fence broadsides.
Can you clarify what you meant?
I love that top down angle @4:45! Really helps me understand the concepts you’re talking about! Thanks for another great video, Joe!
We used these on all 3 sides in 3 consecutive years. They were fairly expensive, but I just told myself I’m never digging another post hole as long as I live, and it was worth it. The oldest side is almost 10 years old and has had zero problems. They are also very strong, and don’t move during high winds.
I purchased these for my fence replacement and think they are well worth the added expense. Really like the thin profile these offer and obviously the strength of being steel.
How sturdy are they compared to other post
We have a prison escape guys... He has an orange jump suit on and he is talking about metal fences .
Haha
I have postmasters for my fence. Had hurricane come through on year 3 and they did move and parts of fence are crooked. A couple of them on the base rusted. I still have them but some of my fence leans. I can only assume it was a poor install and labor job. I've replaced the screws for the 2x4 into the post master with longer ones too. I think my installer could've done better.
Keep these videos coming. I was building a fence a few months ago. And there was little to no information about these u posts.
i see what you did there
just seeing this now myself, i like it.
Liking how easy it looks like these will be and the longevity. What do you do at corners when using this type of post? When looking at this particular style of post I did not see a corner version.
Thank you for showing that better post design. I have a fence built with 4x6 posts, not set at the proper ground height. I installed a pair of round posts to support 2 wood posts that were cracking off at the bottom, 20+ years after install. When the other posts go, I now know the proper fence posts for replacement. One thing I learned, with round posts the adapters can add a lot of expense. I like this, the beauty of wood w/ the post strength of steel.
Very welcome, always happy to help!
the Master Halco posts are the way to fly. I'm a DIY'r and replaced my own fence when a storm here in Okla knocked my old one down. They are so much better looking than the tubular steel posts and they can be covered (by design) with a picket for a "finished look" on the exposed side of the fence. The only issue is getting them as a DIY guy vs being a contractor. I found that locally....the distributor is "not supposed to sell to the public", but they did anyway.
You made me spit out my coffee with the "Poor kids trampoline is to states over” 😂
This is a very good concept. But it is nothing new.
Back in the early 80s I had a neighbor that was a fence contractor. He used steel post and rails to make his wood panels. The post were never set in concrete. He would install sleeves into the ground, then the post sat in the sleeves.
This way you could move the panels into different configurations around your property.
It was a real nice setup, but it was big bucks back then.
I couldn't imagine what it would cost now.
Also thanks for sharing all your knowledge. But like other people have stated. It would be nice to see what you are talking about, being performed so we all can get a better understanding of your concept.
I'm just getting ready to build a little 100' fence. But I already bought and sealed the 4x4 post.
But for my next job I would really like to try your concept.
Thanks again.
Absolutely love the channel. Putting steel posts in the ground makes so much more sense as my last 6x6 corner post warped. I gotta ask though $95 for one of the Halco posts? Am I looking at something wrong? Someone help me out here please.
30 years ago my fence was installed with round 2" steel galvanized posts with treated horizontal 2x4 lagged to the posts. Still going strong, couple a times a year I go around and reattach the pickets that have come loose.
That’s awesome! I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Treated lumber was also much better quality back then. Today's lumber is made out of cardboard
I live in NYC...I don't have a backyard let alone a fence.....but I still watched this haha
I work for a fence company in Nova Scotia and all wood fences that we install use 6x6 wood post. Do you think it would be a good idea to suggest this post master post to the company?
When I built a fence if I could budget it I ran a 2X10 on the ground centered off the fence. I notched it out to slip down over the posts and it worked great to keep grass and weeds down along the fence line. Yes it was extra work but years after it was installed you could still run a mower over it to cut the grass that grew up to the 2X10. It looked good and worked well. My parents loved it after their fence was built and it made grass cutting easier.
You can also just cut a 1x3 or 1x4 ground contact and screw them horizontally through the fence pickets, even one on both side to achieve the same thing.
Can you make a how to vid on a horizontal fence using post masters? Thank you
If you look it up on master halcos website they have a installation manual just for that
Joe Everest, that long sleeve shirt makes you look like you just broke out of prison...
I thought the same thing within 5 seconds of the video
The prison tattoos sells it.
Don't wear orange.
@@JoeEverest i think it's the orange with the horizontal background. i bet if you change the background it'll change the view of prison.
He is the fence guru they couldn't build a fence to hold him in.
One other benefit is that they can support both vertical and horizontal fence styles, so you can switch your fence style up when you replace it in the future.
As a property manager I've replaced a few fences and yes, digging out old post and concrete gets real old, sometimes if possible I just design in new holes and move fence over a bit. Just cut down old post below ground level and cover. EZ
But the only real problem I find is the ground line where water and air meet is the only place it rots. Above and below ground it last a real long time. Either no water above ground, or no air below so rot is reduced, just the ground line is where you get both and it rots.
So Now I add a 2 inch or so collar of concrete above the ground line so it stays drier, does not rot much as far as I can tell or slows it down a lot. For $90-$100 per steel post, I can get a lot of high school kids to dig holes for me. Just too expensive. Dont let the wood post just come out of the ground, give it some protection with a concrete collar using a carboard tube to set the post in. This is real nice but hard to justify and extra $1000 or 2 for these steel post. $20-30 per is about all I'd pay.
There were a whole lot of wood post fences blown down in my neighborhood last winter. Steel posts would be a great idea here.
To be completely fair, I've seen Metal posts snapped in Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado. Ours is 4" od 1/2" thick buried 4' in the ground, it isn't going ANYWHERE. lol
I finally went to steel posts in windswept Oklahoma... best decision ever
I use post master steel posts. They are as good as day one 19 years later. My neighbor on the east fence that was in before I put mine in is wooden posts. We've replaced 5 posts on that side and he already lost the entire back section. Metal, good quality ones like the u shapes ones are well worth the money. Great video.
how much they cost? he's not mentioning the price at all.
Do you have video of fence replacement using these metal posts?
I just put up a 100’ long fence last week using these for the first time. Yes, they were a bit expensive but the ease of installation and peace of mind that this fence will last a long time was worth it to me.
A great tip to save a lot of money on these posts:
Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot. Purchase enough posts to get the contractor discount. I know at Lowe’s, you have to buy at least 20. Use what you need, and return the rest. You end up keeping the discount, and save $12-14/ post. Right now with the cedar prices skyrocketing, you’ll actually pay less for the steel posts!
@@Legobatmanmw3 , I needed 15 for my fence, it was cheaper to buy 20 posts due to the bulk discount but it says right on the receipt that if you return any, they will change the discount back. Anyway, a friend of mine is making a fence soon so he’s buying my remaining posts.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures it could vary by region. Here in Colorado Springs, I do it at Lowe’s all the time. Never loose the discount.
@@Legobatmanmw3 cool deal. My sister lives in Colorado Springs, nice place.
$2 more is "a bit expensive"?
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
I love PostMaster posts. I built a fence for my Mom about 25 years ago. Standard redwood posts. They failed in around 15 years - totally failed! When I replaced the fence, I went with PostMaster posts. The real difference (I love to overbuild) was that before installing any of the rest of the fence (after the posts were set), I framed out and poured a 8' wide by 6' thick "footing" along the entire length of the fence. This went around the steel posts (isometrically around both sides) and keeps the new redwood fence from ever touching the ground. I went for a 3/4" gap above the new concrete. No grass, no dirt can ever get up to the fence boards without serious neglect. No wicking of moisture into the fence boards was the main idea. Of course it was an additional bit of work, but I seriously doubt that I will ever have to do anything to that fence while she is living there. Money/time well spent.
Wicking isn't the only issue if you have a lawn sprinkler and you'll also face splash during a light rain off of that concrete onto the bottoms. Rot is caused by cycling between WET and DRY, over and over and over. That's why the posts always rot right at ground contact: it's where the most frequent wetting/drying occurs. 2nd to that is the tops, where any sprinkle of rain gets 'em wet.
since you have the grass off the bottoms, just spray the bottom 6" with preservative, and then the top 3", every year or two, and it'll double the life.
Don’t know why I got suggested this channel or why I keep watching but it’s some good gear
Thanks for getting straight to the point with excellent points at that.
Very welcome, I appreciate you watching!
My local Lowes carries these for $26 each... and right next to it is a T-post for $4 each. Does this make any sense? Why are these so expensive?
I saw in some posts below...that it probably has to do with their warranties, quality and how the steel was treated/coated to support the warranty.
Its a money grab
Because they're a specialty item that only serves one purpose. It costs money for lowes to have that stuff sitting on the shelf.
@@samwagner31 Yup. Nail on the head. Most people don't realise this, space is the single most valuable item for a store.
Here in Northern Nevada, these fence posts go for $35 ($30 if purchase 15 or more) at the local BORG stores. Went to a local fence contractor. Picked up the Postmaster+ (not the originals) for $39.
Burn or char the bottom of the wood fence post to prevent rotting and termite damage it’s an ancient Japanese technique many videos demonstrating it here on CZcams
Dip ‘em in creosote.
You can also dip them in tar, that's what utility companies do with power poles.
@@69A12SuperBee Banned because it's carcinogenic. My father used to treat all his ground contact wood, but you can't buy it today, and for good reason.
@@brianmi40 well then, I guess the EPA better come ban the creosote bushes I have on my property. 🤣
@@69A12SuperBee you do realize you can't wave a "bush" over wood to preserve it right?
Bushes or not, the chemical extracted is carcinogenic. I don't recommend boiling and eating the bushes.
Master Halco employee right here 😀 they bought out Jamieson fence but so far so good
Except the Jamieson employees seemed to be more knowledgeable about their products and in my opinion a lot more helpful.
@@plumbsquared4450 definitely, I will always choose a family business over a corporation.
I replaced my fence this spring and used these posts with cedar rails and pickets. Glad I did. I also covered the posts with a picket. These posts are very solid. I much preferred using these over round metal posts on the gate posts.
Round steel posts for your gate??? As long as the gate is in a run rather then at a corner or end, a 4x4 will not have an issue holding up to a 10 foot double panel gate. If the gate is at a corner or end, steel is not gonna make a difference anyway as the weight is gonna pull the post out of the ground.
@@amodosandstone9341 I didn’t use round steel posts for the gate. I used postmaster posts doubled up. I have an 8’ double gate that is working well.
We had our fence replaced and used steel poles, so glad we did, a neighbor’s tree fell on the fence, bent the poles and broke 3 pickets. Tree removed, straightened the post and replaced the pickets.
Great example, I appreciate you sharing your experience!
I have started building my 200 ft of fence with Post Master/Master Halco metal post. I like them...easy to use and seems very sturdy. Pickets will go bad before the post do. The cost diff is big, but for all the effort...might as well dish out more money and do it right. I am happy so far (only about 75 feet in...)
Big?
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
Thanks for all your videos and help… I need to post my work for you to see me in action lol … 👍🏽…
When use metal post (both styles, flat post and round w/ brackets) what are a few tips or tricks installing them when or having access to one side of fence?
Better to install that section of post backwards or pre build post and wood braces and stand them up together! Just was wondering…. Because I’ve done all types of things… some yards make US into wizards getting the job done right
I can definitely follow your logic, and appreciate it. Those are some nice looking examples.
"Good fences make good neighbors" 😂
That's your side and this is my side! As long as I don't know you're there, we'll get along just fine. 😋
You did a great presentation. My constructive criticism is skip the asking for likes, subscribes, and bells at the beginning. You get that. Even at the end it's a bit gratuitous, people know what to do by now, but that's the place for it if you feel compelled to remind people. Blessings!
@joeeverest have you ever damaged the postmaster post from manually driving it? If so, how did you straighten that out so you don’t need to cut the top of the post
Sorry to say windspeeds around 100 kmh until 120 kmh 62-64 mhp are getting normal here in the fall and the beginning of spring so what i did is : drive sticks diagonally into the ground, and tension a rope between the fence and the stick in a loop put a stick through that loop and twist it tight so that the fence has more strength, you put the stick with which you tighten the rope into the ground...next time I will definitely use other posts than the wooden ones I have now
I need to fix my fence so I am going to look into using these to fix my fence. My verticle post have shifted and heaved up causing damage. I know how I am going to fix it now. Thanks. 😁
Well I finally got a client to go with post masters and I really like the fencing. 7ft board on board with a cedar cap. Looks great and strong.
Congrats! How did it go?
@@JoeEverest excellent you have a way for me to send a pick
I wonder if you put joist tape across the top of the horizontal 2x4s, how that would extend the life of the fence
I am a fence builder and I prefer round posts they are much stronger then post masters and about half the cost, they are alot easier to do repairs on. You can easily just replace sections as needed. In Denver for an example a t-30 round post with brackets and screws runs you $20 these promaster I see them for about $34 each, that's a $14 difference per post which when doing a large fence makes a big difference.
@@JoeEverest I'm sure it also depends on the location, I use fence supply companies that sell them, I just can't get customers to want to pay the cost. I've seen first hand post masters mangled in after saver wind storms, but yet to see 2 3/8" t-30 aka lg30 do it, I just seen the whole panels ripped off and a couple of times brackets bent. I'm sure post masters are great though and would love to use them. Can you drive them in? I usually just drive lg30 3' down on corners and every third post and drive the other line posts 2- 2.5' down. I only us sch40 on our commercial jobs. I would really need to see a post master survive a bend test over a sch40 to believe it. That would be crazy.
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
@@brianmi40 Not at my lowes they are now $39 per post and $29 per post when you buy 20+. Schedule 40- 2 3/8 round post with brackets runs me now $23 once again a big savings especially for customers.
@@jr303official $23 doesn't include needed mounting brackets (3) to use round posts. Construction time is higher to attach brackets raising labor costs to ultimately be MORE EXPENSIVE, and you cannot conceal round posts without MORE brackets and the result is a way thicker fence.
@@brianmi40 The post is $18 the three brackets are $6.50 for the three and a cap, $1.50, so total is $26 and I drive them in with a post driver. So no holes and concrete. So it saves me time and labor and no concrete cost, so $26 vs $34. I have never had my fences fail although I have replaced these "postmates" posts. I have installed them at owners request but I prefer sch40.
i would have liked to have seen a post installed into the ground and also the cost of one of these post...also, how is the corner post going to look ?....these are things fence buyers/builders would like to know/see...thanks Joe
Less talk. Show the install process.
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes
steel wins easily.
I have a section of fence that needs replaced and I would probably need 5 of these metal posts at most. I need to find some videos on installing them.
Does the steel need to go below the frost line like a wood post? do the width still need to be triple the width of post. So many questions. I really like this look! MO resident
Trimming around wood post is a hassle as well. Grass and weeds grow between the post and the fence and there is no way to cut it. Nice video 👍
$20 weed burner from Harbor Freight, and the propane tank from your BBQ grill. About 4 passes should get you through the summer... If you "accidentally" burn the surface of the wood, do a google search for Japanese "shou sugi ban" to preserve wood...
To stop fence post from rotting while or after you pour concrete in the hole for the post frame up (4) 2x4, (one one each side) about 4", (or use a 2x4 on its side and go 3-1/2") away from the post to have a 3-1/2" thick and tall block of concrete at the base of the post to keep the bottom of the post out of the water when it rains. You can make it pyramids shaped so the water runs off and away from the bottom of the post.
Any suggestions on using a steel post along with a wood framed hog wire fence?
I've lived in hurricane country my whole life. I had a wood privacy fence with both wood and steel posts. Steel posts will rust and snap in high winds and wood posts will rot and break also. I prefer the wood posts being they hold up better in high winds.
New sub! Thanks for sharing this Postmaster video. I’m definitely going to use them. Found you just in time. Fence goes up in two weeks.
Would have liked to see you build some fence with the steel post
How long do these post last? It kind of seems like the normal base rot that occurs overtime would allow these post to get pushed over by winds much more than earlier than the round post.
Thank you so much for this Video!!! Y’all are the truth!!
going to replace my fence here in Tampa FL this summer, knowing which post has better wind resistance and resistance to rot has made me decide to use steel posts.
Saint Petersburg here, same decision:
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes (20 qty).
I have never had a wood post fail on a wood fence I have installed, it has always been the picket that warps, rots, splits, and or simply shrinks and pulls apart or the horizontal brace they are mounted to regardless of sealing, painting/staining etc....in time they all do something that causes one to be repaired or replaced completely, but the post remains intact and I have installed many fences in my lifetime. ( not a professional fence installer either )
of course, I have not gone back to many places they were installed, BUT the wood posts around my property have never failed, I still have a few old locust posts that still stand today in my neighborhood with barbwire still attached from ages past. Just saying...LOL
Keep these coming boss
You’ve got it!
This looks nice. So they designed it to increase tolerance and in return helps with structural strength/integrity and increase more useable area per ordinary post used. Hopefully it's cheap, I'm a go check some out.
Unfortunately, nothing in fencing is cheap right now!
The cost is high per post, but it is the best
Joe, we have a 42" frost line by code. I want to use metal posts for a finished 6' tall cedar fence. Do you recommend I still use concrete to set these, or can I just backfill with dirt since they are so deep? What is your experience with foam for metal posts?
Also used better grade cedar, a little thicker. It's worth the extra money unless you move often.
Always good to c different ideas ...... thx for ur video .... I enjoyed it very much
In Wyoming we get wind gusts up to 80mph 😂
My kids trampoline along with cinder blocs when flying toward my neighbors house
Wow!
How would I retrofit the Postmasters into an existing fence to replace a rotten 4x4 post? Would I need to also replace the cross beams because they’d be too short? Is there an ingenious attachment piece or wood joining method?
Thank you so much for your great videos. I'm in Marion, IA building my first fence after the Derecho. I'm using steel posts from Menards. Could you do a video on your suggestions for setting them and plumbing them? Can't figure out a good, quick way to stake them like a 4x4 wood post. Thanks!
Assuming you're dealing with fairly level ground and not trying to fence over hill and dale, I just screw a scrap of wood clearly wider than the hole in the ground to the post, mounted in chosen standard holes up from the bottom of the post that will give the desired bury depth in concrete and the wood will support the post from the ground on both sides of the hole where it's lined up with your string line to get a straight fence. Fill the hole with concrete on both sides of the post as someone holds it, use a level to check both ways and adjust as necessary to get upright and kissing the string, came back and checked it again after setting the next post, and posts were dead straight the next day. I was casually working my way across the yard, but if in a hurry you could just fasten the stringers and screw a support to resist tilting into a stringer also. They don't really wander much set in concrete properly mixed (i.e. not soupy). Some also use fast set concrete.
I like how post look n u can put light on it
Great video, I had never seen the style of steel post as was used in that top view pic. It’s given me an idea how I want to rebuild a portion of our wood-post fence. Looking at building a shop where on side wall of the fence runs now, and extending the front wall forward and in various areas to enlarge the back yard to meet up with the shop building. These steel posts would be much easier to set than resetting the old posts (unlikely anyway) or buying new wood posts to set. Thank you for taking the time to explain the benefits. Subscribed!
Thanks for sharing your expertise Joe.
For best post strength, would you recommend installing these in concrete or with pneumatic post driver?
@@JoeEverestGreat video. 3 to 1 on concrete width 4x4= 12Width, these steel posts? So I'm not doing overkill, but also not skimping on strength. ✌👽❤
Hi This is Oswaldo from Texas l have question:
Where can l get those metal fence post 11’ high?
Wow! it's been a while since I have put a fence post in the ground...had no ideal they had these...I'm so behind...
Good information. It would have been nice to have more pictures of the fence posts at different stages of construction.
Fair point, I appreciate the feedback!
Thank you this has helped me out more than you know.
I wish I could afford to use these steel posts but I've got 1.5 acres to fence and these costs $100/each for the size I would need. That adds about 3k plus or minus a bit.
2 vid view on post's fences etc.
Thank you for your knowledge and expertise.
Very welcome, always happy to help!
Thanks for the great video. I'm in Michigan and am wondering about the best way to set these. The front line is 44 inches and I believe the taller post is 92 inches. What is the best way to achieve a privacy fence height while maintaining sturdiness?
I have the same question. I’m reading conflicting info. Some say you need to be below frost line, similar to your area, some say just follow the 1/2 to 1/3 rule depending on the fence height.
@Stride Endeavors I'm actually about to install my privacy fence and went with 10ft galvanized post. So I will be putting them about 4 feet in the ground or a little more than that.
I live on a hill in the northeast and we get hurricanes and blizzards so I need to get the strongest setup possible...im doing research now n plan to have a fence put in the spring...we want to go with vinyl but I have no clue lol ...great video tho...i will keep the steel posts in mind for sure
Since wood post have gone up price so much in Oklahoma I've been able to talk people into steel way easier
It's the entire country.
Up to almost $21 here in North Carolina for 4x4x8. Crazy times
@@BEASTMASTERZ_TV it's around 18 in Oklahoma. I pipelined up around winton/tarheel NC man it was pretty.
the metal posts are $37 in cali lol 2.50 per picket
Here inTexas we use old drill stem. Hold up for eons.
I see that springfield Red Birds hat. That's where I live.
My Dad used railroad ties for his posts. 30 years later its still holding strong.
Nice! That Creosote was tough stuff!
I prefer to use 6×6 for posts and concrete always sturdy and looks good
Why would you spend more, make a thicker fence, and it still not last as long as a galvanized steel post that is twice as thick as a 16 gauge round steel galvanized post for chainlink which easily last 20+ years?
6x6 8 ' #2 Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Timber, $39 Home Depot
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
Its just what I prefer to use
Can you mount 6x8 cedar panels to a steel post with no issue? Rather than using individual pickets.
Can't butt up to another fence with post masters. can't screw the rails on. If you turn them backwards then pickets pop out at each post.
Pricewise alone, if paying for install, its worth it. If DIYing, not worth it as the price is 2x higher compared to their wood counterparts including concrete base.
We tried this here in Canada but most customers think it looks ugly and their not great if you live in a super cold part of Canada.
Great video!! I've learned a lot from all of your videos. What screws do you recommend using to attach 2x4 rails to postmaster posts?
Would those hidden posts work on a shadow box style fence that’s mandated by our HOA for high winds to pass through and on the coast with such bad rusting?
It will be nice if you show us the fence you are talking about.
You know, obviously it's in an individual's perception but there is something nice about the structure of a fence too. Around here in front range Colorado, it seems there are many new fences being build to show the posts, not hide them. I have always preferred looking at the structure in combo with the fencing itself. When I built a treated wood fence 28 years ago (yes, a treated wood fence can last a long time. It's still in great shape with the old chemicals that was used then. I'm not saying that changing that treatment chemical was wrong. It was arsenic I believe. It's still that forest green, which I know many don't like, but I literally have never touched it with a paint brush in that whole time. I digress..) I didn't have any problem with the neighbor because I prefer the framing look.
So, all of that said, I do like the idea of the longevity of a steel post but how do I bring it back to my eye? I saw April Wilkerson's video and how she boxed around steel posts, so I'm actually considering installing cylindrical steel posts to emulate that project, sans welding.
These sound great, hopefully less labor time will at least bring the price to a break even point on the overall price
Awesome. Keep up the good work, friend.
It doesn't look significantly different from a post if you have a wood cover over it. The only main difference is the longevity. How do I drive a nail into the steel post? I'm going to need a bigger hammer.
Like the idea but must require extra care to insure post in installed straight or everything will be difficult to install
As opposed to wooden posts, where it’s important to take extra care to insure post are installed straight or everything will be difficult to install. 🤪
Interesting, haven't seen this type of metal post. I'm looking at ideas for a wire fence with wood/composite trim.
This might work, other than for the gate
In Florida we often set the posts in concrete to prevent tipping in winds. Is that also done with steel posts?
Good vid. For the DIYer like ne I'd use these as willing to pay more for clean look and stronger longer lasting. From that Pic id also take tge time to cut the board 'hiding' the post to fit in pieces above and below stringers fir an even more streamline look. Commercial guts not worth xtra time but diy worth it. Heck I created custom cut cedar panels to hide my fence menders that show above ground. Lolz
Wish you'd make a gate installation video using these post...
I have a question! 🙏
Can you establish the posts and their concrete foundations, in such a way that you can later extend the post to make it a taller fence?
as in, I start it out as a LOW fence about 3-4 feet tall. But then if I want to make it a 6-7 foot fence later, I can still use that established concrete/post structure.
I’m new to building, and am buying a house so forgive naïveté.
I like the lower fences, but would like the option to make them taller at some point or at some part of the boundaries.