Using Ice Resin, Molds and Color Dyes to Make Jewelry
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- beadaholique.c... - Designer Julie Bean demonstrates how you can use Jeweler's Grade Crystal Clear Ice Resin, resin molds, Casting Epoxy Resin Color Pigment Dye and some findings to make jewelry.
Designer: Julie Bean
You can find the supplies in this video at Beadaholique.com
ICE Resin Jewelers Grade Clear Casting Epoxy Resin 8 oz Kit
SKU: TRC-10
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CASTIN CRAFT Casting Epoxy Resin Transparent Green Pigment Dye 1 Oz
SKU: TRC-89
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CASTIN CRAFT Casting Epoxy Resin Opaque Red Pigment Dye 1 Oz
SKU: TRC-85
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Casting Epoxy Resin Mixing Cup Set With Brushes and Sticks
SKU: TRC-01
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Casting Epoxy Resin Mold Release And Conditioner 4 oz.
SKU: TRC-04
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Final Sale - Resin Epoxy Mold For Jewelry Casting - 6 Round Cabochons 1 Inch.
SKU: TRC-179
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Tsukineko StazOn Acid Free Jet Black Color Solvent Ink Pad For Rubber Stamps
SKU: TSM-100
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Resin Epoxy Mold For Jewelry Casting - 4 Dual Heart In Heart
SKU: TRC-183 (Discontinued)
Resin Epoxy Mold For Jewelry Casting - 6 Rectangles 3/4 x 1 1/4 Inch
SKU: TRC-159 (Discontinued)
Nunn Design Sealant Protectant 2 oz. - For Patera Findings (1)
SKU: XTL-1032 (Discontinued)
Personally I am a huge fan of Ice Resin. I have used quite a few brands and Ice Resin is the one I can count on for good results. It domes beautifully, has few and easy-to-remove bubbles, and comes out very clear. Resin is tricky though and even the best product can have poor results if all the conditions are not right. I wrote a blog post about working with resin which includes a lot of tips and advice. There's a link for it in the video description underneath this video.
Hi! The swallow is just an image transfer that is applied with water (there are full instructions on the packaging and also we have a video for it). I first poured my mold half full with resin and let that fully cure. Then I applied the transfer onto that layer of resin. Next I poured another layer of resin over the transfer - this way it was sandwiched between 2 resin layers.
@Beadaholique The best method we have found is to 1.) let your resin sit for 5 minutes after mixing to remove some of the bubbles before you pour. 2.) Let your poured resin settle for about 10 minutes and then try to vibrate the bubbles out. Each artist I know who uses the vibration method has a different way of going about it. I use a back massage mat and place my resin on top of it for 10 minutes. It shakes the bubbles to the top and then they go away or can be popped with a pin.
You can either drill the resin and then apply some E6000 to the tip of the eye pin and insert it into the drill hole, or you can carefully place the end of the eye pin into the resin before it cures. I would suggest taping the part of the eye pin which will stick out of the resin to the side of your mold, making sure part the end part of the eye pin sticks into the mold cavity, then fill your mold.
If you were to pour the first layer, add your embellishments, and then immediately pour your next layer, everything would mix together and the embellishments would sink to the bottom. By allowing your resin to cure between layers, you can build levels and dimension within your piece.
Dyes normally do not change the reaction of the resin BUT if you put too much in, they can destabilize the resin and prevent the chemical reaction from happening properly (and thus not hardening).
You can use whatever color you like for the layers. If you do a green layer, you can do another green layer, a blue one, a clear one, etc. whatever you like. However, keep in mind that trying to match two colored layers will be difficult and you will most likely see a seem line. Also, if you have a green layer and then a clear layer, the overall piece will have a green appearance since the green will show through the clear.
Yes, flowers can be placed into resin but they tend to move around, especially fresh ones, you will notice their petals will fold and overlap. It is best if you can press the flowers first. I like to pour a layer of resin into the mold, filling it half way. Let this layer cure for 24 hours. Then place your pressed flower into the mold on top of the cured layer. Now pour another layer of resin on top of the flower.
I am not quite sure how you would get all the different elements of a traditional "eyeball" to look right, but I imagine it can be done. If you are just wanting a simple black, red, or white eye for a costume, then yes, you can definitely make that using this technique.
Natural resins occur in nature such as the sap that comes from a tree. However the resins on the market today that we use for various applications (including jewelry making) all have different formulas. Basically they are a combination of synthetic ingredients that when mixed properly form a precise thermo-setting plastic. If you want to know the exact ingredients for a particular brand of resin, you can go to their website and check out their MSDS sheets.
@Beadaholique 2.) You can drill the resin with a dremel type tool or pin vise and then add a bit of E6000 adhesive and insert the end of the bail or eye pin. 3.) You can actually set the end of the eye pin or bail into the resin itself before it cures and this will secure it. This method (as opposed to drilling) does mean that the wire or edge of the bail will definitely be coming out of a side of the piece (or back depending on the orientation) vs. the middle.
@Beadaholique I have been able to do this before, it just involves careful placement and finding a way of keeping the eye pin straight while you wait for the wet resin to harden and cure (I used tape). If you want to stick an eye pin into the resin, you need to do it while it is still wet. Once it is cured, you will not be able to insert anything into the resin without drilling and gluing.
I've done this before! I found it works best if I glaze the hair prior to placing it in the resin. This allows you to fix the hair in the position you want it. Without doing this, I've had trouble with the hair not staying in place, and can make it look weird. Good luck!
Only the mixed resin will harden. The unmixed portions of part A and part B will stay in liquid form until you combine the two.
I know people have used candy molds for resin, although personally I have not tried it. What I have heard is that sometimes you have to break the candy mold to get the resin piece out. If you are going to experiment, I would try with an inexpensive mold and not a lot of resin. As to the mold release spray, give it a try. A lot of the fun of jewelry making is experimentation.
@DaringDarkness- Hi!
There are two basic types of resin, UV resin and 2-part resin. UV resin is a single part resin that cures in a UV light or in the sun in anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours (with the sun). UV is great for applying thin layers of resin on top of items such as flat tags, stampings, etc. 2-part resin is where you need to mix equal parts of part A and part B and let it cure for 48 hours, 3 days to be safe. It is good for deeper bezel projects, bigger projects, and projects that you want more control over (because you can monitor it closely over a number of hours and make sure no bubbles arise, etc.) Those are the two main types of resin. Then there is also Amazing Glaze but it is really a different entity entirely and I do not consider it to be the type of resin that most people are looking for when they say "resin". Lots of people also consider varnishes, mod podge, diamond glaze, etc. to be resins but again they are not really going to give you that glass like rock hard final cured state. Of the two types of resin there are numerous different brand names. My personal favorite is Ice Resin but that is just my opinion, plenty of other people prefer other brands. As to your question about the not wanting an object to sink to the bottom before the resin cures, you will want to use a 2 part resin and you will want to do it in layers. So pour one layer of resin to the point where you want the object to rest (stop sinking that is), let this layer cure for a good 24 hours. Place your object ontop of the cured layer and pour another layer to the top. If you want anything else suspended in the resin, you will need to do those suspensions in layers.
Mastering 2-Part Resin - Tips and Advice
www.beadersblog.com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html
how can you stamp on it
Btw, I have a few question:
1) while making this, what do I do of the little/some of resin+hardener that didn't get used?
2)can i grease the mold with castor/white/olive oil before pouring resin?
3) if i put metal charms inside it (instead of a clover leaf), can I take it out later after it has hardened (not when it's liquid).
4)will this beautiful piece of resin stay transparent forever?
5) when it gets dirty, how do I clean it?
6)how do I clean the container in which I mixed resin and hardener?
Please answer my quest. I'll be so glad if you do.
Beadaholique Thank you. That was very helpful.
@@maheenfaisal8369 Put it on the floor and jump up and down on it.
Yes, you can definitely stamp on resin. If you are going to do so you want to wait until your resin has fully cured, so 3 days. You are also going to want to use a permanent ink such as StazOn Ink by Tsukineko. If you are not going to put another layer of resin over the ink, then consider sealing the ink with GlazOn sealer.
@Beadaholique I will try to tape a video on this third method in the next week. I think I might just start on it today! great suggestion!
Ice Resin is a 2 part epoxy resin but all brands of epoxy resins are slightly different from each other in how they set up, amount of bubbles, clarity, etc. Resin works great in molds and is very easy to work with. As for the mold release, I am not familiar with another product besides mold release spray for helping the cast resin slip out easily.
Easy Cast is less expensive then Ice Resin but I feel that Ice Resin gives you a crystal clear see-through look whereas Easy Cast can sometimes have a slightly yellow tint or be a little cloudy (not always, but sometimes). I use Easy Cast for projects where I am adding pigments and dyes and ones where I am not as picky about it being absolutely 100% clear.
Resin objects can be used for jewelry, home decor items, magnets, and a bunch of other applications.
In extreme heat, they would melt - but the heat would have to be excessively intense, not just a sunny summer day. A good example is that I did a craft fair once and it was almost 90 degrees outside. I had my resin pieces on a table in direct sunlight for 4 hours and they did not melt - however, there was some crackling that occurred on the images that were sealed below them. Under normal conditions, the resin should be fine.
There does not always have to be 2 layers, it really depends upon what look you are going for. The charm is heavier then the resin, so it will sink. If you are ok with it looking like it is close up to the edge of the resin, then one layer is fine. If you want it to look like it is floating in the resin, then pour one clear resin layer, let it cure, place the charm on top of that layer, and then pour over it with your second layer.
The air bubbles can be released with heat but you do not necessarily want to put a micro-torch to a mold. Try letting your resin sit for 5 minutes before pouring it, this way some of the bubbles will rise to the surface on their own and pop. Besides that, you can try vibrating the bubbles out - touching a low-speed vibrating device to the side of the mold will cause some of the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop.
Can you explain how to do the image transfer and stamping?
If your flower moves around, use a toothpick or straight piece of wire to reposition it within the resin.
I used to work with resin floor finishes. You need to stir sllllooooowwwwwllllly in order to reduce bubbles. I would use the die right away to save time waiting and pour very closely to your mold. Reduces bubbles.
Yes, you can add paper once you have already poured the resin into the mold. What the paper will do is another story. It might curl, float, sink, etc. I can not say what it will do. Also, unless you properly seal the paper on both sides, it will become saturated with the resin and darken considerably.
Hi! You have a couple choices for making a pendant out of a molded piece of resin. What you need is to attach a bail and you can do this by: using a glue on bail, embedding an eye pin into the resin before it cures, or drilling the resin. We have a video showing you how to embed the eye pin - "How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold" As for drilling the resin, I have not personally done this but I know a lot of people have successfully drilled resin.
@MikeilaM If you want to stick an eye pin into the resin, you need to do it while it is still wet. Once it is cured, you will not be able to insert anything into the resin without drilling and gluing. If you are using a mold, I would suggest placing the end of the eye pin into your wet resin and then carefully taping the protruding portion to the plastic of the mold. The tape should stabilize the pin until the resin cures.
I really like the Ice resin. It cures much clearer that some of the other brands that I have tried.
I also learned a trick to get air bubble out of the resin. Take a drinking straw and blow across the top of the resin. The carbon dioxide in your breath pops the bubbles! You can also used a BBQ lighter to very briefly apply flame to the top of the resin.
Yes, you need to dispose of the mixing cups once they have been used.
Mold Release spray will help your resin pop out of the molds. There's a link for it in the video description underneath this video. As for air bubbles, I make sure to let my resin sit in its mixing cup for 5 minutes before pouring, this allows some of the bubbles to rise and pop on their own. Also, you can try vibrating your mold to get the bubbles to rise to the surface. I have a back massaging mat with a vibration setting that I use...
Also, some resins like Ice Resin are known for being super clear, which means that they are great for pendants. When deciding which resin to purchase, think about how much time you have for your projects and what you are going to be doing with the resin. If you are going to coat an entire table top, you would probably rather purchase EnviroTex Lite Pour-On which is less expensive then Ice Resin and you can purchase a large quantity at once.
In general, the edges end up pretty smooth naturally and the use of a Dremmel tool is not needed. It really depends upon what you are making and your process, but I have been able to just file down any rough edges with a simple diamond file.
I have not tried food coloring but I worry about the resin curing properly using a "non resin" dye. It's very important that the mixture of resin is balanced when you pour it - by balanced I mean equal parts of A and B and then just a little bit of dye that does not offset the mixture. I worry that food coloring will cause the mixture to become destabilized. But, definitely feel free to experiment and see what happens.
If you want to mix colors, I suggest mixing them on a plastic disposable lid or paper plated to get the color you want and then adding just a dab at a time to the resin. I have found that mixing colors in the resin itself has resulted in too much dye being used for the amount of resin.
Yes, you will use the mold release spray prior to pouring.
Thank you i guess i used the wrong search word. You are an amazing teacher and artist .. Ive started resin and beading due to your channel. luv from Fl
You can put in dried flowers. I have done that before but do some practice ones first if it's your first time. I'm not sure about fresh.It's just trial and error! and also if you want to turn it into a pendant you can glue this thing called a bail. It's called a finding. You can get them on ebay or etsy or maybe even your local craft store carries them, mine didn't. Just search "Bail finding" And if your looking for some great glue to glue the bails to the resin piece use this glue called E6000
There are many many brands of resin and a lot of differences between them. I suggest finding a resin that specifically says it is made for jewelry making or one that is marketed as such. I prefer Ice Resin because it is very clear, has few bubbles, and domes beautifully. Envirotex Jewelers Resin is another good choice. We have a video showing you how to embed eye pins to use as bails (for making earrings and pendants) - "How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold"
Objects made out of resin are used for jewelry pieces, crafts, magnets, art pieces, decorative items, and a whole host of other applications.
There are specific image transfer sheets available and we have a video showing how to use them. I would suggest pouring an even flat layer of resin, letting it cure, apply the image transfer as shown in the video, and then pouring another layer of resin on top of it.
Hi! I have only ever used dyes specifically for resin. I am not sure if water based food coloring will work but my best guess is no. When you mix resin you need to be really careful of the measurements of part A and part B, making sure that they are exactly 50/50. I worry that introducing a water based food coloring product is going to upset the balance and cause the resin to not cure properly. You should definitely experiment with a small batch though and see what happens.
On my video to-do list is one showing how to insert head pins. Sometimes people drill the resin and then glue the head pin in place with an adhesive such as E6000. If possible, I prefer to embed the head pin into the resin before it cures. This is not hard to do with molds, although it does mean that the head pin will always be in the back of the piece. I will do a video on this as soon as I can.
Ice Resin is the brand name of one variety of resin. There are many other brands of resin available such as Envirotex, Easy Cast, etc.
@lyricalstarz Certain inks will dry well on resin. I used StazOn Ink. This particular ink adheres well to non-porous and semi-porous surfaces. I do like to still seal the ink - either with another layer of resin or a product like Nunn Sealant (if it's on the top of the final resin layer). I would recommend doing a test piece first, then proceeding with a larger batch of projects. All products are available on Beadaholique's website.
There are specific screw-in eye pins that might work for this but I would suggest drilling a hole first where you want the head pin to screw into, I don't think arm strength alone will do it. I also recorded another video that shows how to embed an eye pin into the resin. Check out our video: "How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold", there's a link for it in the video description underneath this video.
@Beadaholique If you are using a mold, I would suggest placing the end of the eye pin into your wet resin and then carefully taping the protruding portion to the plastic of the mold. The tape should stabilize the pin until the resin cures.
@sydsnow2 Ice Resin is a brand name of resin. So it Easy Cast, Envirotex, Gel du Soliel, and Magic-Glos (to name a few). All these are resins but they have a different formula and some are 1 part resins and some are 2 part resins. The results also vary just a little from each other as does the set-up/cure times. Resins start out as a clear liquid and harden to a transparent solid coat.
For projects where I want the the finish to be absolutely perfect, I go to the added expense and get the Ice Resin. I also have just had better luck in general with Ice Resin always turning out for me.
There are many different ways to turn molded resin pieces into necklaces. The easiest is to use a glue-on bail. Go to our website and search "Glue-On Bails". You can also drill resin if you have a small drill such as a dremel. Another option is to embed a bail or eye pin into the resin when it is still wet. I am planning on teaching a tutorial on this method soon. There are other ways too but these are the most common.
@beadsrock00 Hi Maggie,
Thanks for your question. We used StazOn in jet black. It is recommended that you seal the ink before you pour the resin, for this, you can use Nunn Permanent Protectant Sealant. Experiment though because I did find that I really did not need the sealant, but I would hate for any of your projects to bleed so maybe try a test one or two first. You can find these products on Beadaholique's website.
Have fun!
@nomesy81 Yes, you can make 3-d charms with resin and molds. If you are wanting them to have a design on both sides or be a completely round shape, you will want to use a product such as Easy Cast Silicone Molding Rubber - SKU:TRC-62 (Available on Beadaholique's website). This will allow you to make those dimensional objects.
Silicone molds work as well, just check to see if they say they are good/safe for resin use - molds tend to vary by manufacturer.
As long as some part of the eye pin is in the resin before it cures, it will be solid and secure once the resin hardens.
@Beadaholique f you are just making one sided objects, an easier solution would be Mold Putty - SKU:TRC-60. In order to get a hole into the resin for later attachment, you are going to need to drill through the resin. Make sure you wear a mask when you do this so that you do not breath the resin dust. You might be able to actually insert an eye pin into the resin while it is curing as well.
Some of them rise to the surface and pop on their own. Traditionally you use heat to remove them, such as a torch, but that does not really work with molds. The best suggestion is to vibrate them out. You can touch the side of the mold tray with a gently vibrating device for several minutes and it will cause a number of them to rise to the surface and pop on their own.
Hi! Clear Casting Epoxy (I think you mean Easy Cast) and Ice Resin are both 2 part resins but here are how I find they differ:
Easy Cast is less expensive then Ice Resin but I feel that Ice Resin gives you a crystal clear see-through look whereas Easy Cast can sometimes have a slightly yellow tint or be a little cloudy (not always, but sometimes). I use Easy Cast for projects where I am adding pigments and dyes and ones where I am not as picky about it being absolutely 100% clear.
@XxMusicXxFreakazoidX Absolutely! Just make sure that the clay is baked and cooled down first. If you are planning on painting the clay, make sure to use a sealant of some type over the paint (and let dry) before you place into the resin. Have fun!
@Beadaholique - you can glue them into a bezel setting which then has a hoop at the top for the necklace, you can use a glue-on bail (use E6000 adhesive for a permanent bond), you can drill the resin and then attach a jump ring or bail to the hole, or you can place a piece of wire into the resin before it hardens and then form this into a hoop for a bail once your resin has fully cured. I am hoping to do a video soon on this last method :)
@Beadaholique You also don't want it to be hot. Avoid pouring when it is really humid, this can affect the curing too. It all sounds complicated, but once you do it a couple times, you won't even think about it anymore. Have fun!
Hi Denise! You can make all sorts of items with the resin pieces you create. We use them to make rings, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, and more by adding findings and other jewelry components. The easiest application is to simply glue the created resin piece to a bezel or glue-on finding, such as a ring. There is a link to our Free Project page for more ideas in the video description underneath the video.
Because the cup needs to be absolutely clean and the resin measurements need to be exact, I really recommend just disposing of your cups after use and not trying to clean them.
Hi! To add a hole you would need to drill the resin after it has fully cured (make sure to wear a mask!). If you do not want to drill, you can insert an eye pin into the resin while it is still curing. We have a video titled "How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold". You can also use a glue on bail on the backside.
Hi! What you can do is adhere your printed image to something flat, like a metal stamping blank, seal it with 3 coats of sealant, and then dome the resin on top of that. We have a video showing you how to apply resin to a flat object (not a bezel): How to Apply Resin to Objects with Uneven Backs and Stamping Blanks. If you are careful, you can get a higher dome then what is shown in the video, however, you will not be able to get a super high dome like a glass cabochon.
I wouldn't give it a black background, but maybe a transparent color like the green in the video. I think you'd be fine with the clear. You could always try it on one claw and see if the clear works or not.
@Beadaholique If you already poured your resin and did not use mold release, still try to remove the resin as normal after 3 days. You might be able to do so just fine.
Hi! I am not sure if the physical reaction needed for the resin to set up (when you mix part a and b) would change if food color was added. I have never heard of it being done, nor have I tried it so I am unsure of outcome. The pigments and dyes we use are specifically made for resin. If you were to try food coloring, I would suggest just a single drop and try it with a small batch on a test item.
@GoodToKnow4Ever Hi! I am not sure if the physical reaction needed for the resin to set up (when you mix part a and b) would change if food color was added. I have never heard of it being done, nor have I tried it so I am unsure of outcome. The pigments and dyes we use are specifically made for resin. If you were to try food coloring, I would suggest just a single drop and try it with a small batch on a test item.
@honeybeeglass Unfortunately you can not reuse mixing cups when working with resin because the resin is going to harden and you will be unable to get it out of the cup. If you tried to clean it right away (which is really hard since it is so gooey) you run the chance of a residue remaining in the cup and that getting into your next batch of resin. It's also not good to put resin down the drain.
Hi! I unfortunately do not have any info to share on plant based resin, but if you find some, I would love for you to share it with me :) Yes, in theory I think you could make a cup out of resin although demolding it is going to be a real challenge, you might literally have to cut it out. The bangle bracelet I made in the block mold video was a real challenge to get out of the mold and I think a cup shape would be 10 times worse.
i saw when you poured your resin into the moulds, there were lots of bubbles. a way to stop bubbles is stirr it slowly and gently. you stirred them very fast. just a tip :)
Each color of resin needs to fully cure. You can mix up a batch of resin and then split it into several containers and add dye separately to each container. Then you can pour one color into one mold, one into another, etc. Please allow the full 3 days for the mold pieces to cure before removing from the mold.
@Beadaholique Pour your resin and then make sure that the heat source stays on for at least the first 12 curing hours. Also make sure that you are not pouring near a drafty window or some area that might suddenly drop in temperature. For the bubbles, you might also want to try letting your resin sit for 5 minutes after you mix it but before you pour it - this can reduce the bubbles.
We have a couple different products for making molds: Easy Mold Silicone Molding Putty for Casting and Jewelry Making 1/2 Pound - SKU: TRC-60 and Jewelry Making and Easy Mold Silicone Molding Rubber for Casting and Jewelry Making 1 Pound - SKU: TRC-62. There are videos for each of these, I would recommend watching them and seeing which one looks best for the type of object you are trying to mold.
@mawntica The name of the ink that was used in this video is "Tsukineko StazOn Acid Free Jet Black Color Solvent Ink Pad For Rubber Stamps" and that stamp is called a "Wood Peg Mounted Rubber Stamp 3/4 Inch Mini Branch Design". You can get them on Beadaholique's website. The links for the supplies in this video including those two are located in the video description underneath the video.
I think you will want a dark layer in the background but make sure you actually set the claws down into a clear layer. So each layer will need to fully cure before pouring the next one.
Yes, you can put pictures in resin. We have a video to help you titled How to Prepare Images in Pendants for Resin. You can watch this video and translate what you learned to your application, the same techniques will apply.
I can't say if there are still fumes but you do always want to work in a well ventilated area when using resin.
I have done this before too! it is super cool , my friend wanted really much , so right now I don't have it now so i am going to buy it again.
I would suggest doing a test run of this with an object about the size and weight of your sculpted piece before you actually set the real one into resin - best to test it out and make sure you are happy with how it might sink, move around, etc. Best of luck!
I always seem to get a concave effect when the resin is done hardening. Is there anyway to not have that happen? I've used a diamond file before but that only works well on the thin leftover areas, also I have a hard time not scratching the good areas of the mold. Any ideas on how to not have it sink-in in the middle? Thanks!
It does tend to sink in the middle and if you try to fill it exactly to the edge, you run the risk of it overflowing. You can try to fill the mold with resin like usual, let it fully cure, pop it out of the mold, and then apply a thin layer of resin into that concave area - the surface tension around the edges should hold the resin in place. Just be careful to not fill too much unless you want a domed effect.
Hi Beadaholique :)
I have a question that I've always wondered... I bought resin awhile ago and I've already planned on using just some disposable plastic containers to measure/mix the resin.. but my question is: how do you properly dispose of the measuring containers with the residue left over from pouring into the mixing cup? ): I know that resin is corrosive and toxic and I I'm afraid of what I'll be doing to little animals/the environment if I just toss it in the trash ): What do you do?
it will harden (those mixtures in mixing container) so it will not be toxic anymore. You can let it harden before you throw it away in trash.
@Mariaswallets I am sorry but there is no way to clean the measuring cups. They are single use. Once part A and part B of resin have been mixed, their curing process begins. This means that the resin will harden in your cups. If you tried to scrape it out or extract it in some way, there would always be some residual left behind and would affect your next batch.
The easiest way to turn these into pendants is to embed a bail into them or glue a bail on the backside. We have another video showing how to embed a bail: How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold. For making beads, you can drill resin if you have a small drill such as a dremel.
There are opaque dyes available which will not be transparent. (Search Dyes & Pigments on Beadaholique . com) If you are doing a single color, you can pour to the top of the mold right away - it is only if you want layers of different colors within the same mold cavity that you will need to do it in layers. Allow 3 days for it to fully cure.
@Beadaholique As you work with resin and try out different brands, you will find the one you like the best and that works the best for you and your needs.
Unfortunately you can not save mixed liquid resin. I suggest having several projects needing resin ready when you do a pour so that you can use up all your mixed resin and not waste any. Then for the second layer you will need to mix up a new batch.
Hi, I would like to cast real flowers in resin. Do you have a tutorial on this? Is it possible with fresh flowers, 3D, or do they have to be dried? Ty!
@kelmarie1985 Not a silly question at all. It just needs to be around 70 degrees, not exact. I actually live in a 100+ year old building and there is no temperature gauge, just an old heater. I just make sure that the room air feels pleasant and somewhat "warm" and then I am ok to pour. If you are even questioning that the air might feel a bit cold and you maybe need to put a sweater or socks on, then it is too cold to pour.
@Minajahn Great question! Yes, it does smell so you will want to work with it in a well ventilated area. Every person I know describes the smell differently. To me, it smells like a cleaning agent, such as a tile or counter spray. Other people have told me it smells like a moldy kitchen sponge. The smell is not pleasant, but I don't find it too offensive either.
If you want to put a hole through resin, you will need to drill it with a tool such as a Dremel. You can also glue on a bail or embed a bail into the resin before it cures. We have a video showing you how to embed a bail - "How to Embed an Eye Pin Bail Into a Resin Mold". Hole punches will unfortunately not work.
@TwiggyPunky Unfortunately you can not store already mixed resin. Even as you are working with it, you will notice its consistency starts to change, becoming thicker and more tacky. I try to mix only enough resin needed for each layer but not mix less then 1 oz at a time. So this means that I usually wait on my resin pours until I have several pieces ready to go.
@MrSugarholic Hi! I have yet to find a resin that works well in cold temperatures, however, that doesn't mean that you can't still use resin and have it turn out well, even if it is cold outside where you live. Try this: Decide on a room to pour your resin in where you have a heat source, such as a radiator, space heater, central heat, etc. For about an hour before you pour, warm up the room to a little over 70 degrees.
I am not sure exactly how many different brands of resin there are on the market, I know of at least 5 or 6 off the top of my head. There are the UV resins which cure in the sunlight or an UV lamp and these are great if you want pretty instant results and do not want to wait 3 days for it to cure. There are then the 2 part resins which cure over a longer period of time but do not require sun or UV.
I would just pour your molds as usual but just make sure to leave a tiny amount of space at the top of the mold. Let the bottom layer(s) cure fully and then go back and fill that small space in the top of the mold with an opaque color of resin - black always looks nice but any opaque color layer should make the front layers stand out more.
How common is it to need to use a Dremmel tool on the edges of the fully cured pieces? Or do the edges typically end up smooth without need for sanding?
@Hafurfaderf Transfer sheets are similar to collage sheets. What you do is cut out an image on the transfer sheet, you drop it into a bowl of water and let soak for about a minute. The film like image will gradually release from the backing paper to be set directly on your chosen pendant and later covered with acrylic varnish. We have a video titled: "How to Use Transfer Graphics To Make Jewelry" to to get more info.
My best guess is that your piece stayed sticky because their was too much dye for the amount of resin you used and it unbalanced the resin resulting in it not curing properly. To get the really strong rich colors, you need to be using opaque dyes. Carefully add just a drop at a time and you will see that they become a solid deep color.