SunGold Power SP6548 Inverters | Hook-up & Wiring Power to the Compound
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- čas přidán 30. 12. 2022
- In this video I go over the wiring of my SunGold Power SP6548 Inverters, wire size, breaker size, panel connection as well as components and Big Battery Huskey battery bank size.
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Thanks for the walkthrough! Love seeing other setups. Looks great! Nice and clean!
I hated putting the 4awg into the terminals as well.
Only thing that I might look into is swapping out the ANL fuses for Class T fuses. From what I recall hearing when I was looking into fuses, the ANL have the potential to still arc after the fuse “blows” in the event of a dead short. The class Ts I believe have sand packed inside to extinguish any arcing. Just something to look into.
Thanks for the info, I will be going with them on my battery upgrade. Been seeing good things about the class T. These cheapos came with the kit! :)
Great set up, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the view, been having some troubles with these inverters and my LED light. Gonna be posting some troubleshooting videos soon.
Great video, i have one and plan to get another one to do 13k. question, for the AC in breaker, would a 100amp DP breaker with 4AWG be good?
I have several inverters and the best i have is the 110/220 split phase sungold 4000. It runs my 9000 btu 38 seer inovair brand minisplit. The minisplit only puts a tiny load on the inverter so hopefully ill have a well dug soon and the sungold will also power the pump. So far with all ive tried the inverter with ots never blinked an eye at starting and running it. Thanks for showing your system
I have had a couple issues with these inverters, mainly flickering/strobing lights. I just recently removed the neutral ground bonding screw from one of them, do you have any insight on that with these SunGold inverters? Here is how I did it, czcams.com/video/mL0aAoja2Ks/video.html
Thanks for the comment & view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 the neutral ground bonding stuff can be kinda complicated. With my all In one it doesn't have an internal relay to disconnect the bond internally. The thi g with mine is if the ac input is used then while in ac bypass it works fine but as soon as I go to battery or solar as main source of power then the ac Inputs gfci breaker will trip because I have neutral to ground bonded on the inverters ac output. If I disconnect this bond it will not trip the ac inputs gfci but it also don't have a ground to reference and make clean signwave while on battery or solar. It still makes the 110 power but it's not clean and without it bonded I have trouble with lights flicker and the fridge compressor is louder and not as smooth running. Also without the ac output having the neutral ground bonding my camper frame shows about 40 volts going thru the frame which will lightly shock me in the rain. So I figured out how to do itand make it work like it should but I had to use a small transfer switch and it's now using the ac inputs bonding while in ac bypass but when I turn off qc input and run from solar and battery it has the neutral ground bonding on the ac output. It took me a freakin month of studying and struggling with this to finally figure it out and how to have ot qll work right without making a ground dangerous ground loop. It's finally all safe and working great thanks mostly to a guy named roland on youtube. Look up roland neutral ground bonding hybrid inverters. He's made several videos on how to do this correctly and it's extremely important to have this done right. You can make it kinda half ass work but it ain't gonna be safe and gonna mess up your appliances fairly quick if not done correctly. I learned the hard way lol. Roland goes thru step by step so after watching his videos you will grasp it and be able to do it correctly. Will prowse and other guys I see mess with those inverters are definitely not doing it right. They make them work... but not correctly. Roland is a really cool guy that walked me thru the parts I didn't understand and he saved my ass
@@matthewknight5641 I will definitely check this out! Thanks!
Because you did not route the battery cable in a conduit, I recommend you to use the black metal extension box which come with the unit, this is a must for battery cable protection (UL compliance).
Thank you...I'll have to dig that out. Thank for the view & comment!
Please help us! We bought the same system and are having a rough time getting them up and running. System is all built and wired but we can’t seem to get our inverters to program.
Should be using electrical paste on all the ends of your wire.
Hi, nice job on your installation, just wanted to say that a # 4 wire 8:36 is rated for 85 amps, i think the reason your wire fits so tight in the connector and please correct me if im wrong is because its designed to accept a # 10 wire, i have 4 Sungoldpower LV6048 and they suggest a # 10 AWG, bigger is not a bad thing but just a whole lot harder to bend and install, i would like to also add that your ANL DC fuse is rated for 32 volts max, you need a T class fuse for 48 volts DC, keep up the good work and be aware the shock and fire hasard risks these inverters have the potential !
Sorry so long on the reply, don't know how this one got by me. My installation manual required #4 wire on the AC in on a 60 Amp breaker, I put the same wire and breaker on the AC out as well. I'm working on different fuses but they are stamped 250 Amps. Thanks for the view and knowledge!
My 8.2 kWh inverter manual also calls for 6 sqmm or #10 AWG for AC in and out. It,s a 220V system. Maybe for 120V you can use bigger cables.
However for the 48 V battery I use 25 sqmm or #4 AWG wires as per instructions.
add a capstone 30kw micro turbine as backup
Semper Fi Devil Dog!!!!!!
YUT-YUT! Semper Fi Thanks for the view! Been sick dog, dont judge! :)
That last bit about L1 and L2 was important to me. I've been emailing Sungold about the different ways to connect . Not understanding me. I get that maybe English is a second language.
Sorry for the late respones...L1 and L2 connections are critical...I labeled mine as to not get confused. Thanks for the view!
6 gauge wire is for 60 amp a 4 gauge is for 85 amp but if you look at your 200amp from the pole to your house is 4 or 2 gauge aluminum
That's what my cheat sheets say too, not sure why the manufacturer requires 4 AWG
Great video sir... did you hook this up to take advantage of the auto transfer feature? I'm trying how best to wire these to cut the main supply and power the whole house automatically when during a certain time frame during the day. The programming of that seems easy but the install makes me think that the main feed to the house would have to feed inverter first then main panel in order to do this properly.
Sorry for the late response...YES, I hooked it up as an uninterrupted power source. My service main (from the pole) goes into my main panel, out of my main panel I supply the inverters with 60 Amps, then out of my inverters into my subpanel with 60 Amps. If my solar and batteries can not power the loads, the 60 Amps from my main panel kick in and power the loads. Thanks for the view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 Thank you sir
Is the neutral and ground separate in these sun gold units or is it bonded like most of the MPP units (they look similar). This looks nice!
Thank you! From what I understand they are bonded in the units, I have tested my ground and found no current on it. The units are very similar if not identical to other 6548 from what I can see and my limited knowledge. Thanks for the view!
Electrician pliers will flatten the wire. Also should have been 6 to 8 gauge wire depending on the length of the run. You are running a 6.5kw inverter correct?
Yes, thats correct. I had relied on the system designer for wire size of the pv array. I have learned a little since then and have a little voltage drop. Thanks for the view and feedback!
Nice video my dude, I like your solar setup. One problem though, the left and right neutral bars on that loadcenter are connected to each other and to the plug-on-neutral bars via the metal strap near the bottom of the panel (time 11:48 in the video). You backed out the ground bonding screw then landed all your grounds on the neutral bar anyway. As a result, the neutrals and grounds are not isolated from each other and the panel itself is not grounded. Since that's an Eaton BR series panel, you need to buy an Eaton GBKP1420CS ground bar, attach it to the chassis of the panel and move all the grounds off the neutral bar and onto the dedicated ground bar.
Thanks Brother...you are spot on! I called my Master Electrician (a few electricians have been guiding me) not that I didn't believe you but I have ask a few people about this exact thing & everyone has been ok with the installation. My initial thought was to remove the bar...anyway he concurred with your assessment and recommendation and for that my friend I am very grateful! I am going out tonight and buying the grounding bar you recommended and according to the inside label of the panel, your right on that too!! Its always good to have people on the team skilled and knowledgeable in things that others lack. Welcome to the team! Thanks for the view, comment and knowledge...stay tuned for the update! :)
Looks pucker. Ignore the haters
Hello,
Pls, from where did you bring the wires of the AC Input from? Did it come from the solar panel?
I have an Enphase system that comprise of a combiner box cos I have micro inverters and I also have an IQ System controller.
Do you have experience with Enphase system?
good video
Thanks for the view!
Hi, I’m instructed same system. Where did you purchase the in line 200amp fuses, and buss bars for your dc wires
Sorry for the delayed response, been crazy around here. Fuses and bus bars from Signature Solar.
They recommend 4awg wire because of the surge capacity of the units. So they can technically surge up to 26kw.
Thank you for that info and thank you for the view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 sure thing. Quick question, do you have the upgraded version of this inverter? 390v voc?
@@GavinStoneDIY Yes I do, my installation manual has a sticker over that indicating 390Vdc & 90Vdc-350Vdc for the MPPT Voltage range.
@@DumbGrunt0311 awesome. And do you have any dimmer switches in the house run by the inverters?
@gavinstone3980 no I do not but I do have some dimming/pausing lights that's seem standard on these models or similar models that I'm trting to working out.
the way you did that eaton panel, it's not separated
to separate that panel you have to add in ground bars
if you want that to be a sub panel you have to add ground bars and not use the green screw
Thanks for the good eyes! Yes, that has been corrected since this video, someone else beat you to it. :) I have received a lot of great feed back, much appreciated. Thanks for the view!
Not sure what the combination of panels voltage are but cables for the pv look a bit thin. How far away is the solar pv from the house. Might get a fair bit of voltage drop
Sorry for the late response. I was at the mercy of the system designer for that when I purchased the system. Panels are 125 +- feet from the house (150 feet cable were purchased and I had a little left over)
I'm trying to figure out which communication ports to use for the battery maintenance system on the SP6548. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Sorry for the late response Wade. I'm sorry but I cant help on that one, with my batteries, I didnt get into that. Thanks for the view and comment. Sorry I couldnt help.
im sure someone has asked about any issues with big 240 volt loads?
in florida, i gotta have the A/C running, summer is too brutal without. hell i will buy extra panels just for that.
also, i would put those #4 wire bundles in some flexible metal conduits......its not really meant to be "free-air".....i do like your system, hope to do the something similar here, just cant make a decision on grid-tie/off grid/, or hybrid.
So far no problems with my big loads but currently I only have (2), water heater & well pump & they run fine together. I do have a 30 amp breaker running my barn but its all 120V stuff out there, gonna try running my sons welder sometime soon when I get caught up on some projects. The only real big issue I have encountered so far is the strobing/flickering LED light issues that some of these hybrid models have and I cant quite figure out what's causing it. I am reverting back to fluorescents in some of my lights.
I do have a cover for the front of my wireway, just took it off for the video so the front is not open. The hybrid inverters are nice for an uninterrupted power source installation like the way I have mine set up, if a SHTF scenario or grid down situation should happen I will just have to watch my battery consumption as I wont have that "Utility Crutch" to power loads. Thanks for the view. I have more solar testing and troubleshooting stuff coming out in the future, gotta get my garden in first. 🤣
Hi, are you feeding the input side of both inverters with one double 60 amp breaker? I am looking at a similar setup except using two of the 5K inverters and Sungold is telling me I need separate double pole breakers for the input on each inverter. It doesn't make sense to me since you have 2 hots on one double breaker but the input on each inverter only takes one hot line.
Sorry for the late response. Its been Joe Biden crazy around here. I have (1) 60 Amp breaker, (1) line L1 goes to one inverter - (1) line L2 goes to the other inverter. Not sure how you would hook up (2) double pole breakers.
Nice and clean. What's the PV array size ?
@nathaelf I have 27 panels at 360W for a total of 9.7KW. That build video is in my "Solar Projects" list on my site if interested. Thank you for the view, much appreciated!
Does it matter if AC in and AC out are in the same load panel such as a sub-panel?
Sorry for the late response. Yes AC in should be from your main panel, AC out is to your subpanel.
Did you have to run the software to combine the two inverters? My second inverter went into alarm.
No I just had to program them to 2P1 and 2P2 then turn them on in that order.
Hi, did you switch the rich solar inverters for this new ones? Why? Thank you
Yes, the 3 Solar Rich inverters could not be set up in slip phase, it created an imbalance in the system. That whole fiasco is laid out in my "Shop Solar Kits Review" in my "Solar Projects" Playlist on my channel. Might want to check it out, thank you for the view!
Per SunGoldPower requirement, you need to have surge protectors for inverter solar inputs.
I originally had them in my combiner boxes but when they (ShopSolarKits.Com) redesigned it, they did not indicate them. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for the info and view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 DIY: Buy a HT 8-way box, two 32A DC circuit breakers, two 220V DC SPDs. The SPD is connected at the load (inverter) side. If your PV arrays are series strings then you don't need extra fuses. I have four inverters, my design is almost the same with yours. However, I routed the battery cable inside the 3x3 square conduit, it looks cleaner this way.
Update: Per SunGoldPower requirement, install a 30A circuit breaker per PV input. However SunGoldPower state there is a maximum of 18A which a PV input of the inverter can handle. Furthermore, most PV Maximum Power Current is about 10A-13A, so that the Maximum Series Fuse Rating is about 20A. I suggest to use 20A circuit breaker instead. Remember, not everything SunGoldPower states in the manual is correct.
Hi, I can see some little mistakes in cable sizing here. If I were you, I would have put all the cables inside the 4x4 way including busbars and fuses, it would have been another step cleaner.Thank you for the video
All my cables were sized as recommended by the manufacturer. I would have liked to have had a larger wireway but my budget didn't allow it and I'm pretty sure with those bushbars and 1/0 cables, it would have had to be larger but, I agree, would have been a lot cleaner. Thanks for the view!
I would put a 15 amp fuse in the solar. U can get a 15 amp mc4 fuse . Going in rite before your inverter there like 12 bucks on Amazon
Thanks, I got a couple with my kit. Will throw them in on my next tinker day. Thanks for the tip and view!
So what would you think your largest load you have running off your solar? Any issues? Have you noticed any flickering lights?
Oh, and thanks for the shout out!
Largest load so far is water heater, it doesn't run much with the stove running but has kicked on a couple times out of necessity and testing purposes. I do have flickering lights, have tried balancing out the loads but have not tried the better quality LED but not all my lights flicker, just a few! Shout-out well deserved, keep up the great work, look forward to your vids great information!
@@DumbGrunt0311 thanks! I’m hoping to add some larger loads once I get my inverters back. Gotta analyze power draws to determine which ones to start with.
I have just contacted SunGoldPower, per PV array string is connected to an inverter and cannot be shared with another one. I don't know if the voltage of each string is different then the AC output is still a balance of 240V (120V + 120V or 130V + 110V)? Do you know this?
Yes, I have (2) Strings of (6) Series going into each inverter and (4) Big Battery Huskies going to my busbars. I will be doing some upgrades (additional Kong Elite Max battery, busbars, surge protection) coming up in the next couple weeks if you want to check that out. Thanks for the view and comment!
@@DumbGrunt0311 The battery bank are sharing between inverters, how about solar? They are the same DC voltage. If all the solar strings are connected together with a combiner box then split to each inverter, all voltage and current are balance. Have you tried this? SunGoldPower OEM the inverter from a manufacturer, I found some errors in the manual.
@@cotandiet6096 NO, my panels are not connected in a combiner box. There are (6) panels together straight back to the inverter on each PV input. Each inverter has (2) PV inputs.
I have 3 bluepower TP6048 that are 6000W inverters. My user manual calls for 10awg for AC lines I put each inverter on their own breaker
Do you run your inverters in a split phase configuration 120/240?
Yes Sir I do, (1) inverter on each phase
The reason that you are having trouble getting the 4 awg into those terminals is that they are meant for 4 awg welding wire in a ferrule.
I was looking for ferrules, but I could not find them when I installed the inverters and it made the installation difficult.
@@DumbGrunt0311 yeah, I said they would be easy to find, just letting you know why you’re having difficulty
@@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET I haven’t actually seen that written anywhere. I believe the terminals are made for 4 awg thhn. Ferrules may make it easier though.
@@GavinStoneDIY no they are definitely not made for solid wire. All of the Voltronics/MPP Solar kit is designed for stranded wire. I have been using this stuff for years and years not and I know that I have read that somewhere.
@@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET thhn is stranded wire. That’s what I was referring to.
If you had used 10 gauge wire and capped it with ferrules, you'd be good
The only 10 ga wire I have is on my PV runs, didn't need them with the MC4 connectors unless you're talking about going into the DC breakers? I checked at my local electrical store for some but they didn't have any. The manufacture required #4 wire into the inverters, (wish I had some there too) on a 60 Amp breaker for AC In & Out. Appreciate the comment and view, thank you! I've done some upgrades since this video and I'm getting ready to release another one on some ground/bonding corrections if you're interest.
Use a EG4 48v Battery Charger.. 100amps with only a small generator
Thanks, I been thinking about one of those. Heard they're pretty nice! Thanks for the view!
you keep saying "all wire gauge" AWG stands for American Wire Gauge just FYI.
Yes Sir...you are correct. I say a bunch of dumb stuff! Thanks for sharing and setting the record straight and for the view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 you asked for help, I am happy to share my expertise with anyone willing to learn.
Seem to me the Ac input and output our the same
Ooops... If you connect your inverter output to a circuit breaker panel, then that panel becomes your main panel when you are off grid, meaning the bond between ground and neutral green screw MUST created the link, but doing so, it means you MUST remove that similar green since that panel has no become your sub panel. If you want to kwwp your main panel as the man panel, then you could connect your inverter output to that panel. I hope I was clear. If I am right, your installation is dangerous.
Are you talking about the bonding screw inside the inverter?
Do you like me run your washer of your solar and then put a solar dryer 😂 two poles, and 4 strings
Yes Sir...I actually just took my solar dryer out :) it will be going back up this summer, it kept fading my favorite shit! 🤣
AWG - American wire gauge, also those DC breakers for solar Are not to be trusted! As soon as i Saw them I have to spread the word. Electrician here all my life, Have experience in the last few years with these! They take a hot second to break the circuit, at load you can hear the ark in the breakers and get extremely hot! personally melted one before my eyes. Also testing Solar circuits ive seen them get very hot trying to break the circuit!! Throw them in the garbage!! theres a reason there so cheap!!!! just sayin.. Please Be ADVISED!!!!
Thanks, appreciate that, what do you recommend? Thanks for checking it out and the view!
@@DumbGrunt0311 Hey My Man, Hope all is well, I know it may be painful to switch financially but A Midnight solar breaker are UL approved and actually will break the circuit (i've tested) or a knife switch, Square D, 30 amp 600 VAC/DC Would have it forever and will easily break the circuit, They are what i have and been using for decades, Again will last a lifetime. That particular breaker I have experience with "Chataxi" Or whatever, It wasn't just a bad breaker it was all of them, I tried thinking its got to be just a bad breaker but it wasn't I was all of them. (I tried to go cheap and paid twice!) Not my business what you use just feel like I had to say something when i saw that breaker! Nice job Though Like your troft Nice addition. Good Luck..
Looks like you know just enough electrical to be dangerous! You are going to kill or hurt someone in your family doing this kind of crap.
Thanks...and congratulations! You are the very first person on my channel that has said absolutely nothing to help or point out what you are talking about! Appreciate the view and comment though, stop back when you can explain or articulate your concern! :)
@@DumbGrunt0311 It is not my job to "teach" you by "articulating my concern" - maybe you should try opening an residential electrical 101, or reading the NEC, you hopefully will then realize some of the HUGE mistakes you have made here! I will give you ONE hint though, Your neutral bars (2) are connected together, you have all your grounds connected to the neutral bar! It is NOT a ground bar just because you decide to just hook grounds to it! lmfao - Your welcome
@scotty362100 lmao...yep! You are right...and it has already been changed. You couldn't teach anyone with that attitude. Still, thanks for the comment and view, I've been waiting on my first genius! 🤣
6 gauge wire is for 60 amp a 4 gauge is for 85 amp but if you look at your 200amp from the pole to your house is 4 or 2 gauge aluminum