Great video, and well done. Couple of dodges from an old time motor mech. We had a sea of Morris Minors at the GPO. Dont take the front bumper and front panel off (as it says in the manual). Save a lot of time. Take the rad out, then just remove the four self tapping screws from the grill. Remove the grill only, work through the aperture. If you dont have an impact gun, you can undo the starter dog by using a large spanner against the chassis leg, then flick the starter. Caution! Nanny State says this is dangerous. Its really great you are doing these videos, as your helping many owners who are new to it. Great idea to use a duplex, did that many times, its a kind of fit and forget mod. Excellent video as always, thanks Mate
Thanks for the constructive feedback, it is appreciated! (will give it a go next time i need to get in the front) Im trying to hopefully get across, that nothing is to scary and people can get out and have a go themselves! Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, thanks for the tips. I have a 1955 series 2 and a 1958 1000 that I am restoring got last year and June 2024. Never driven a Morris minor. By the time I do get to drive these, I wont have to worry about the timing chain. Cheers...Ray
I'm in the middle of this job too, but got it a bit worse. Dried up, twisted bits of plastic fell from the timing cover, which I assume are the "rubber" shims. They're very hard and brittle for rubber... And the cam gear had chipped. I've also taken the opportunity, have the head off and weight off of the engine, to replace the manky engine mounts. What a job in situ with seized mount tower (metric) bolts. I managed with only one cut out. I've removed the radiator, but not the front end. My impact, I mean ratchet, extension fit through the starting hole and through the grille. 😅
The timing marks should be in line towards each other, the way you have set it up the engine will probably still run ok but it will be running 180 deg out of time plus the distributor may need to be reset, Google it! (i dont want to blow my own trumpet but I am a qualified mechanic) the marks will probably sync up cylinder 4 tdc but as I said you shouldn't notice any difference if anything just a smidgen
Hello, thanks for the feedback, though I referenced they keysways in the video, I did neglect to show the timing marks on the sprockets, (that was in the corrupted footage and I forgot to re film it!) they do indeed point towards each other. In any case neither the crank nor camshaft were moved from the start point when removing or re fitting the chain/ sprocket assembly. But thank you for your keen observations!
@@badgerlodgegarage Thanks for your feedback too, I have been a mechanic for many years even had my own business! anyway im here if you need advice but I am not saying you are not competent, you seem to know fully what you are doing. Anyway good mechanicing and driving Paul (ho yeah I am retired now 😉)
Watched all your videos now and they are really good. You have a style that's easy to watch. Please do more, especially on the Regal, as I own a saloon. :)
Hello, no need to apologise. thanks for the observation, I did mention in the video that its a Duplex chain that is wider than the original, and talk about the bolt clearances. possibly wasn't clear that it was an upgrade...
That impact driver is a beast. I need to one of those methinks🤔 Fellow Moggie owner here by the way, 1965 4 door called Maisie. Thanks for the interesting vid.👏 Just noticed you started the engine and left the radiator cap upside down on the top of the rad! Not a good idea to leave anything around that could fall into the fan belt or something..
Glad you enjoyed!, the impact driver is very useful… your car is only a year older than mine, very nice. Good spot on the rad cap… would have noticed if it went flying!
The engine mounts are fine, they do look terrible, but until they break I’m not going to replace them, due the the replacements being stiffer than the originals ever were.
Hi mate great vid! Just a quick question, I also have changed my moggy to a duplex chain, I put the cover and crankshaft pulley back on after I was finished and decided to start it up for a bit to see how it was running without the coolant running through it, the same as you did, but after about 3 mins of running I turned it off but noticed white smoke coming from the top coolant inlet, if you have any answer for this I’d love to here it
Thanks for watching! And the white steam will be any residual water boiling and venting from wherever it can, you don’t want to run it for too long without coolant, but a short time is fine and the white steam is normal.
Ha. All those Ugga-dugga machines. Cheating! I did my Mini timing chain with the usual spanner and hammer. And manually getting all those cover bolts out! What I can't see on the camshaft pulley is the rubber tensioner rings. As I remember, replacing the pulley, with new rings, would give you a wobble-free chain.
Great video, and well done. Couple of dodges from an old time motor mech. We had a sea of Morris Minors at the GPO. Dont take the front bumper and front panel off (as it says in the manual). Save a lot of time. Take the rad out, then just remove the four self tapping screws from the grill. Remove the grill only, work through the aperture. If you dont have an impact gun, you can undo the starter dog by using a large spanner against the chassis leg, then flick the starter. Caution! Nanny State says this is dangerous.
Its really great you are doing these videos, as your helping many owners who are new to it. Great idea to use a duplex, did that many times, its a kind of fit and forget mod.
Excellent video as always, thanks Mate
Thanks for the constructive feedback, it is appreciated! (will give it a go next time i need to get in the front) Im trying to hopefully get across, that nothing is to scary and people can get out and have a go themselves! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Paul, I'm in this now and I've removed the radiator only, but I was still working through the grill until now.
Awesome video, thanks for the tips. I have a 1955 series 2 and a 1958 1000 that I am restoring got last year and June 2024. Never driven a Morris minor. By the time I do get to drive these, I wont have to worry about the timing chain. Cheers...Ray
I'm in the middle of this job too, but got it a bit worse. Dried up, twisted bits of plastic fell from the timing cover, which I assume are the "rubber" shims. They're very hard and brittle for rubber... And the cam gear had chipped.
I've also taken the opportunity, have the head off and weight off of the engine, to replace the manky engine mounts. What a job in situ with seized mount tower (metric) bolts. I managed with only one cut out.
I've removed the radiator, but not the front end. My impact, I mean ratchet, extension fit through the starting hole and through the grille. 😅
Very clear and easy to follow video. Super useful, thank you!
Thanks for watching, glad you were able to get something from it!
Great stuff mate, keep it coming! I just purchased a '59 Morrie Thou in the same colour two days ago in New Zealand.
Thanks, they are good fun cars! and greetings from GB
The timing marks should be in line towards each other, the way you have set it up the engine will probably still run ok but it will be running 180 deg out of time plus the distributor may need to be reset, Google it!
(i dont want to blow my own trumpet but I am a qualified mechanic) the marks will probably sync up cylinder 4 tdc but as I said you shouldn't notice any difference if anything just a smidgen
Hello, thanks for the feedback, though I referenced they keysways in the video, I did neglect to show the timing marks on the sprockets, (that was in the corrupted footage and I forgot to re film it!) they do indeed point towards each other. In any case neither the crank nor camshaft were moved from the start point when removing or re fitting the chain/ sprocket assembly. But thank you for your keen observations!
@@badgerlodgegarage Thanks for your feedback too, I have been a mechanic for many years even had my own business! anyway im here if you need advice but I am not saying you are not competent, you seem to know fully what you are doing. Anyway good mechanicing and driving Paul (ho yeah I am retired now 😉)
Watched all your videos now and they are really good. You have a style that's easy to watch. Please do more, especially on the Regal, as I own a saloon. :)
Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed… there will be more!
Yet another great learning video from BLG .This Spring my Minor van will be attacked. Thank You 👍👍👍
Welldone good sir! A great work done and an inspiration for us all!
Awesome vid.
😂 those fiddly little nuts on the chrome trim elbows were spec’d by Satan’s production manager.
“Satans production manager” that’s brilliant!!… and correct
Maybe you should have mentioned how you went from single row timing chain to double row timing chain.Sorry,used to work on these engines 40 years ago.
Hello, no need to apologise. thanks for the observation, I did mention in the video that its a Duplex chain that is wider than the original, and talk about the bolt clearances. possibly wasn't clear that it was an upgrade...
That impact driver is a beast.
I need to one of those methinks🤔
Fellow Moggie owner here by the way, 1965 4 door called Maisie.
Thanks for the interesting vid.👏
Just noticed you started the engine and left the radiator cap upside down on the top of the rad! Not a good idea to leave anything around that could fall into the fan belt or something..
Glad you enjoyed!, the impact driver is very useful… your car is only a year older than mine, very nice.
Good spot on the rad cap… would have noticed if it went flying!
Good job, and video.
Before you put the timing cover back on you could have replaced the engine mounts .They look manky.
The engine mounts are fine, they do look terrible, but until they break I’m not going to replace them, due the the replacements being stiffer than the originals ever were.
This is very good. Do you have any pre timing-chain-repair footage? I'm trying to diagnose my own rattle.
I’m afraid not, it was a constant loose rattle only at idle, coming from the front of the engine…. If that helps at all?, and thanks for watching!
Hi mate great vid! Just a quick question, I also have changed my moggy to a duplex chain, I put the cover and crankshaft pulley back on after I was finished and decided to start it up for a bit to see how it was running without the coolant running through it, the same as you did, but after about 3 mins of running I turned it off but noticed white smoke coming from the top coolant inlet, if you have any answer for this I’d love to here it
Thanks for watching! And the white steam will be any residual water boiling and venting from wherever it can, you don’t want to run it for too long without coolant, but a short time is fine and the white steam is normal.
@@badgerlodgegarage that’s great to hear and very reassuring! thanks very much for the reply 👍👍
Ha. All those Ugga-dugga machines. Cheating! I did my Mini timing chain with the usual spanner and hammer. And manually getting all those cover bolts out!
What I can't see on the camshaft pulley is the rubber tensioner rings. As I remember, replacing the pulley, with new rings, would give you a wobble-free chain.
So nice to work on them cars, not so easy on the minis and 1100/1300’s 😬
I don't know why but you remind of Fred Dibnah, and that's a good thing.
Thanks for the generous compliment!… though I can’t hold a candle to Fred Dibnah and I’m definitely too southern!
Thanks for watching.
How many miles has that chain you swapped out got on it!?
38000 miles
@@badgerlodgegarage I'd say that isn't much. Interesting;
Great vid mate....but how do ya work in a coat...?
Thanks!… Twas a cold day
Just like i've done back in the day!
They are great cars to work on!
S it for sale how much
Not for sale I’m
Afraid!
You don't have to take the front panel off. I did mine by just removing the radiator.
Ah nice one, I thought taking the whole lot off would make access easier overall.
Oil thrower XX
Sheep? sound more like cows.