I've been trying to find a way to use copper, but I only have 0.15mm pure nickel and not nickel plated steel. Don't know if that's the cause of the failures. Welds aren't strong enough, although they're not terrible either. I'll try nickel plated steel and also cut a slot on the copper ribbon or even completely split the strip in half to create a gap to force the current through the cell tab.
Few months later update: Indeed nickel plated steel is the way to go for welding this copper sandwich. It works brilliantly and the welds are quite strong, you need pliers to pry them off and it rips the ribbon apart. Btw, I don't have a fancy and expensive spotwelder like a Kweld, I got this results with a basic DIY microwave oven transformer and AliExpress controller.
About to use copper sheet for the first time. I've built hundreds of batteries but anything above 200A I always just used cells that I could bolt together. Like spim08hp's or headway 38120's. This will be the first time I'm building a high discharge battery with spot welding. I'd be lying if I said I was a little worried.. this is an almost 90kw build. There is zero wiggle room for detached strip. 20s20p molicel p42A. Qs180 90h, 3shul CL1000, CRF450R frame. I have 2 spot welders. Sunko737G+ and a Glitter801D. The glitter welds at 2500A max. In your experience is that high enough for 0.3mm copper sheet? Or should I get the glitter 811A which welds at 6000A max?
My experience with other welders is limited, but I hear good things about the Glitter welders. I just picked up a kweld to try and do some heavier connections.
@@ebikebuilds4000does the kWeld do pure nickel 0.2mm with 0.1mm copper sheet? like with a LiPo? i've got one on order which will probly arrive in a few days to replace my cheaper Sequre SQ-SW2 (it wasn't really good enough for consistent 0.2mm welds, plus consistency is hard to get as it's just time based)
@BH4x0r I just started using mine. It's doing the .1mm nickel and .1mm copper just fine, way better than the Sunkko I used here. I'm powering it with 4 chevy volt cells in series. If I wanted to push it higher, I would do 4s 2p of these cells, and some heavier wires for the welder.
@@ebikebuilds4000 didn't see the first reply.. I ended up getting the glitter 811A. It's actually way too powerful. I tested 0.1, 0.15, and 0.2mm on some some random cells I had laying around. At 50% power the 811A blows a hole through the copper AND blows a hole into the cell and liquid starts oozing out of the cell. Incase you or anyone on the future is wondering, the sweet spot seems to be : Bare copper 0.10 - 15% power 0.15 - 20% power 0.20 - 25% power Second layer of pure copper on top of pure copper 0.10 - 30% 0.15 - 40% 0.20 - 45% Sandwich 0.2 nickle over copper 0.10 - 15% 0.15 - 20% 0.20- 25% Pure nickel 0.20 10%
Thanks for the video. Sadly the 709AD is not available right now 😢
I've been trying to find a way to use copper, but I only have 0.15mm pure nickel and not nickel plated steel. Don't know if that's the cause of the failures. Welds aren't strong enough, although they're not terrible either. I'll try nickel plated steel and also cut a slot on the copper ribbon or even completely split the strip in half to create a gap to force the current through the cell tab.
.1mm nickel steel is what you really need for this machine to work. Anything thicker and it won't penetrate enough.
Few months later update: Indeed nickel plated steel is the way to go for welding this copper sandwich. It works brilliantly and the welds are quite strong, you need pliers to pry them off and it rips the ribbon apart. Btw, I don't have a fancy and expensive spotwelder like a Kweld, I got this results with a basic DIY microwave oven transformer and AliExpress controller.
About to use copper sheet for the first time. I've built hundreds of batteries but anything above 200A I always just used cells that I could bolt together. Like spim08hp's or headway 38120's. This will be the first time I'm building a high discharge battery with spot welding. I'd be lying if I said I was a little worried.. this is an almost 90kw build. There is zero wiggle room for detached strip.
20s20p molicel p42A. Qs180 90h, 3shul CL1000, CRF450R frame.
I have 2 spot welders. Sunko737G+ and a Glitter801D. The glitter welds at 2500A max. In your experience is that high enough for 0.3mm copper sheet? Or should I get the glitter 811A which welds at 6000A max?
My experience with other welders is limited, but I hear good things about the Glitter welders. I just picked up a kweld to try and do some heavier connections.
@@ebikebuilds4000does the kWeld do pure nickel 0.2mm with 0.1mm copper sheet? like with a LiPo?
i've got one on order which will probly arrive in a few days to replace my cheaper Sequre SQ-SW2 (it wasn't really good enough for consistent 0.2mm welds, plus consistency is hard to get as it's just time based)
@BH4x0r I just started using mine. It's doing the .1mm nickel and .1mm copper just fine, way better than the Sunkko I used here. I'm powering it with 4 chevy volt cells in series. If I wanted to push it higher, I would do 4s 2p of these cells, and some heavier wires for the welder.
@@ebikebuilds4000 didn't see the first reply.. I ended up getting the glitter 811A. It's actually way too powerful. I tested 0.1, 0.15, and 0.2mm on some some random cells I had laying around. At 50% power the 811A blows a hole through the copper AND blows a hole into the cell and liquid starts oozing out of the cell. Incase you or anyone on the future is wondering, the sweet spot seems to be :
Bare copper
0.10 - 15% power
0.15 - 20% power
0.20 - 25% power
Second layer of pure copper on top of pure copper
0.10 - 30%
0.15 - 40%
0.20 - 45%
Sandwich 0.2 nickle over copper
0.10 - 15%
0.15 - 20%
0.20- 25%
Pure nickel
0.20 10%
@@jstagzsr thats pretty insane, so it has no issues doing copper 0.4mm thick at 45%? holy...
What's the thickness of your copper?
.1mm copper, .1mm nickel plated steel