This vehicle has 68,000 miles. The symptom was front-end vibration at highway speeds. In normal inspection, the bushings looked fine. It takes a knowledge of the common BMW faults and symptoms to be able to realize that this would be the most common reason for a front vibration ... even if the bushings look good. They get soft and allow the oscillations.
How right you are, Andrew! We are constantly talking to customers who have a front shake and have been "assured" by their mechanics that the bushings are fine and could not possibly be at fault .... only to find that replacing them cures the problem.
Love your Videos,just as a comment, just did replace the thrust arms on my 2008 E63 in my driveway. it was not necessary to lift the strut, seemingly the BMW designers changed it to make it easier. Thank you for the Videos
it amazes me how often you are told these bushes are ok when they have gone soft. I replace them as soon as I feel movement on braking. They only seem to last 2 to 3 sets of tyres. New bushes make a huge difference to the car.
Thanks for the great repair video! I'm looking to tackle this job soon and am collecting all of the resources I can. Great clear and concise instruction! Anyone should feel confident with this video.
Thanks, Otto! Did this job on my 2006 330i and it's even easier than in the video because on the e90 there is more clearance and the control arm comes right out without lossening any other parts.
I have no idea how much money you have saved me because I did not bother to look. I truly trust your expertise to the moon and back as diy'er(???). Replaced upper and lower control arms on both sides of an 2006 650i and it went almost as smooth video. It pleases me most that in this day of hard times you have allowed me to maintain food in my family's bellies, maintain the integrity of my car/toy, and without disrupting the bank at all. YOU'RE THE BESTEST!!!!!😎 .
Man you are the greatest I just changed my control arms an must I say I HAD A BLAST the process was just as you explained you are the BEST. Once again thank you my friend. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me so thoroughly. I didnt think I could do it because of the strut but after watching this ..I'm doing it. !
Yes, this will lead to premature bushing failure (and often, odd handling). And, yes, you can release the bolt-nut and re-torque while the suspension is properly compressed. This will not make it as though it was never tightened improperly, but will help it to live longer and function properly.
Thank you for replying its a 2000 323i and no it doesn't say wind shield but the symbol light appeared on the dashboard at first I didn't know what the light meant until I looked up the manual online
Thanks for the info. I gave my son a small budget to pick out another "responsible family car” while we finish his project truck. It was leaking profusely on day one so we replaced the alternator bracket seal. This is sliding off the bushing now. As it sits I, I have $2560 in it and it's the most luxurious car we own. I'm still trying to figure out INPA.
Thanks for the video. I'm a loyal customer already. Time to replace my pass side LCA. Felt a pull when I first bought my 05 645ci. I can definitely do it myself. Missing a car lift but have all the other tools! :D
Felt a tiny pull when I applied the brake. A mechanic told me it was the forward LCA which he said is a common item. Guess I'll have to do the rear facing as well to keep things even.
Great video! I bought my bushings at BavAuto, will be changing only the UCA bushings and change the whole arm with BJ later if it fails as the pair of bushings was only $50.
Get the schwaben tools ball joint separator that has a 80mm max opening because working on my 98 528i and so far the tie rod on one side and the upper control arm was stuck in the sleeve when trying to remove from the knuckle it will be a PITA if you also have rusted bolts and you finally break them loose to find out you ball joints are all stuck in the sleeves on the knuckle so be proactive and get that tool you will thank yourself later
just did mine on my 2002 bmw 745li everything was east except when I tried to put the new one on it wouldn't line up but I finally got it on... thanks for the video
you are so calm and relaxt..love to learn from youre videos...hope you can do more e39 videos...you have one how to replace oil sump casket of an e39 ??
This is a very good job sir, very nice. i like your videos, im in a automotive mechanic training in Germany for 3 years now (almost done) so your videos are very useful and interesting for me. thank you!
The ball-joint pins on these later-model BMWs are not tapered and, therefore, are not pressed into tapered receiver holes. That's why they just "fall apart" when the nut is removed. You can use a thread locking compound on the old nuts, if new ones are not available.
Great work and thank you for a very helpful video I have been searching for this for quite some time now and you just made it clear so keep doing what you are doing an awesome job.
Very great video! I have been working on my daughter's first car.....an 04 BMW 530i....a lot!! But nonetheless I think it to be a solid car still. Thanks again
ERRATA for a 2003 745i, things that can go wrong and how to fix them. -- USE a rubber mallet to knock the wheel down the strut, JUST far enough to get the ball joint out. Also, try the crowbar as shown in the video to bring it down. When putting it back up, you DO need a jack of some kind. Then make sure you are lifting on the lower/rear ball joint so that it is lifting the wheel assembly straight up, directly under the center of the strut, or it can bind. If using a floor jack, use a piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint so you don't damage the grease seal. Also, miss the sheet metal flange when lifting. I used the rubber mallet with the jack to get it to go back in place. -- When dropping the wheel assembly down on the strut, it can come all the way down, off the strut, (for NO value). When you lift it back into the strut, there is a TAB behind the wheel on the strut, that must travel up and down the clamp assembly. You MUST alight the strut with this tab, or it will never go back. It can also get twisted over to one side and bind, and you will see the car lift, instead of the wheel on strut. (I used a small mirror from the outside of the wheel well, while the jack lifted it into place.) Use large pliers to grab the strut and easily twist it to align the tab. -- NOTE that if replacing the other lower/rear control arm, you can't get the new arm in, while the wheel is down from the strut--it must be up and in-place. (This may have made it easier to drop it down too far, with it off. Try replacing this whole arm BEFORE you drop it from the strut.) -- My car only had the one nut and bolt on the wheel assembly clamp, and not the extra 17 MM bolt. -- My car has a plastic shield around the frame bolt on the strut, that comes off by hand. -- May car has a NASTY plastic AIR RAM, coming from the front grill, directly behind the frame bold at a 45 deg. angle, ONLY 1.5 INCHES AWAY from that bolt!! Push hard and you can get a torque wrench in there, but just barely! Now after you take the nut off, get a BIG CROWBAR and move the plastic out of the way far enough to pull a 4" bolt out. But before that, you will likely have to take some of the wheel liner bolts out that are next to it. While I'm sure you could remove the whole wheel well liner and many other things to remove that vent, (that vent goes directly into the wheel well), I think forcing it away with some bolts removed is a better method. -- When putting weight / stress on the wheel before tightening the frame nut / bolt to 80 ft/lbs, have someone at least sit in the car. I used the jack method to lift the wheel, the way most shops likely do when replacing the strut. You'd be surprised how far it moves with someone sitting in that seat, though.
Hey big a have a question?! 1st let me say your videos was perfect and very easy to follow but I also have another problem with my steering mechanism now if you look on your video when you’re under the car there is the sway bar and another aluminum round piece that’s a welded to the body of the car right next to the sway bar would you happen to know what that is called or where I can find one to replace mine’s.. please and thank you
Great video. I'm in the middle of changing my thrust arm out and the nut did spin off a little but now it is so bound up causing the ball joint to spin and I'm breaking Torx40 sockets due to the binding. The nut is backed off flush with the tip of the bolt. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this; heat, nut breaker, dremel?
The ball joint pin came out very easily it normally is a real pain to take out. What if some one wants to use the same nuts rather then buying new locking ones, is there any way you can do that? I did not use new locking nuts when I did it on my E38. Its a bit late now I guess.
Great video, I'm new in car mechanic and I'm in a country that they don't know to much about cars. But what does that part do if you need to changed? is it avoiding sound when drive on a bumpy road?
On my E39 528 Balljoint is tapered and you will need balljoint separator/propane torch and some sweat to pop it up - NOT EASY. It will not just come out.
Otto (Gordon) since there is no Bentley manual for the 745li, I need the torque settings for the different bolts on the upper control arm....otherwise, a great diy Thanks Bart Neuman
Good Video Presentation.. I'm replacing my front control arms with OEM Lemforder for my 2016 Audi. Is it recommended that a wheel alignment is performed in a timely manner.
Thanks so much for putting these videos up. You save the semi-delusional DIY'ers (like myself) untold gobs of time, sweat, and money. I have an E65, 2002 745i and had the upper control arms replaced but still have a small amount of shimmy with moderate to hard braking (It was much worse before the upper control arm replacement). The mechanic said the rearward control arm bushings were worn too. After watching this, I think it's a job I can handle. Are there any special secrets I should know before I proceed? Thanks again.
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2002 X5 3.0 it has a vibration when braking on the freeway or downhill on the front driver side. I wast told to replace rotors. I did replace new rotors, brakes and the problem still there. later I replaced the UPPER control arm and links on both sides and the problem still there. rotated tires and still the same. Would this be the problem? or any more ideas? I will appreciate it. car has 165k but I would still drive it.
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
BavarianAuto Fantastic video, very informative. I will be getting your steering knucle spreader tool though - seems more efficient than the screwdriver. Question for you guys though - you where installing the Meyle parts. I will be replacing failed Meyle HD thrust arms due them failing after about 60K kilometers (which seems very premature to me). Would you recommend Meyle HD again, or should I go with Lemfeorder? (I know, I know.. it's like a Mac vs PC debate :-D ). P.S. Also, thrust arms affect caster, not toe specs :)
Adrian P Yes, the knuckle spreader is the way to go. We found and started stocking the spreader just after this video. Yes, 36-ish thousand miles does seem a bit early for the Meyle arms to fail. Is it the bushings or the ball joints that have failed? We certainly would not recommend against using the Lemfoerder units as replacement. The thrust arms can indeed affect the toe, as well as the caster. However, the only adjustment available, on a stock suspension, is the toe setting. Caster and camber are not adjustable.
Hi BavarianAuto, super video on Replacing the control arm i love the way you explain and show how to things right, may i ask is it the same on an E39 03 model? and thanks once again.
The E39 is similar, but does have some differences. You do need to loosen and move the shock to access the ball-joint nut (similar to what is shown here). The configurations will be slightly different. If it is a 6-cylinder, the thrust arm (or upper control arm) will go to the rear of the vehicle vs. the front as shown here. Finally, the ball joints will be the common earlier tapered pin type that requires a puller to separate from the hub. Take a look at our video on replacing control arms an a 3-series (E30, E36, etc) for a view of separating this type of ball joint.
We really don't have enough info to give you a good diagnosis. You may have a power steering pump issue, but this is just a guess, from what you've noted.
What are symptoms of bad thurst arm on bmw ? Have light steering wheel shaking then braking lightly (no shaking then pushing brake pedal harder) on my e39.
I'm going to replace the front upper and lower control arms (1998 BMW 540i). Do I need to replace the bolts on the bushing ends or just new locking nuts? Would it be beneficial to lightly grease the ball joint end before inserting? Thanks for your time..
With the 2007 X3 E83 3.0si, the thrust arm ball joint is attached from underneath to the spindle with two screws. How would you suggest getting this one out? Thanks,
one of the best detail-by-detail DIY here in CZcams.
I noticed the steering vibrating under breaking. On closer inspection the inner bushes were worn. Great explanation, very clear and easy to follow.
This vehicle has 68,000 miles. The symptom was front-end vibration at highway speeds. In normal inspection, the bushings looked fine. It takes a knowledge of the common BMW faults and symptoms to be able to realize that this would be the most common reason for a front vibration ... even if the bushings look good. They get soft and allow the oscillations.
Absolutely excellent tutorial video. Very concise, especially on the suspension pre-load before tightening the bushing.
instaBlaster
How right you are, Andrew! We are constantly talking to customers who have a front shake and have been "assured" by their mechanics that the bushings are fine and could not possibly be at fault .... only to find that replacing them cures the problem.
Love your Videos,just as a comment, just did replace the thrust arms on my 2008 E63 in my driveway. it was not necessary to lift the strut, seemingly the BMW designers changed it to make it easier. Thank you for the Videos
it amazes me how often you are told these bushes are ok when they have gone soft. I replace them as soon as I feel movement on braking. They only seem to last 2 to 3 sets of tyres. New bushes make a huge difference to the car.
Thanks for the great repair video! I'm looking to tackle this job soon and am collecting all of the resources I can. Great clear and concise instruction! Anyone should feel confident with this video.
Thanks, Otto! Did this job on my 2006 330i and it's even easier than in the video because on the e90 there is more clearance and the control arm comes right out without lossening any other parts.
I think that your video and commentary rate among the very best. Thanks for providing this excellent tutorial.
I have no idea how much money you have saved me because I did not bother to look. I truly trust your expertise to the moon and back as diy'er(???). Replaced upper and lower control arms on both sides of an 2006 650i and it went almost as smooth video. It pleases me most that
in this day of hard times you have allowed me to maintain food in my family's bellies, maintain the integrity of my car/toy, and without disrupting the bank at all. YOU'RE THE BESTEST!!!!!😎
.
nice, clean and professional... every mechanic suppose to do so...
I've done some work on my wife's 540 i. Tie rods replaced. Cost $60 each and 30 mins work. Great video.
Man you are the greatest I just changed my control arms an must I say I HAD A BLAST the process was just as you explained you are the BEST. Once again thank you my friend. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Great video, and the guy was very clear explaining every little detail of the scope of work.
I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me so thoroughly. I didnt think I could do it because of the strut but after watching this ..I'm doing it. !
I just grind off 1/8-1/4 inch of the ball joint bolt end where the hex bit goes and it slides out no problem. No need to remove the pinch bolts
By far one of the best how to’s.
cảm ơn bạn đã chia sẻ và hướng dẫn cách tháo lắp và thay thế càng xe BMW 5,6,7 và x series
As always excellent video. took me about an hour actually 50 minutes to change one side.
Yes, this will lead to premature bushing failure (and often, odd handling). And, yes, you can release the bolt-nut and re-torque while the suspension is properly compressed. This will not make it as though it was never tightened improperly, but will help it to live longer and function properly.
Excellent video quality and explanation of tightening under load.
Thank you for replying its a 2000 323i and no it doesn't say wind shield but the symbol light appeared on the dashboard at first I didn't know what the light meant until I looked up the manual online
Thanks for the info. I gave my son a small budget to pick out another "responsible family car” while we finish his project truck. It was leaking profusely on day one so we replaced the alternator bracket seal. This is sliding off the bushing now. As it sits I, I have $2560 in it and it's the most luxurious car we own. I'm still trying to figure out INPA.
Thank you very much for that. Easier on a lift but something this little woman can definitely do.
Thanks for the video. I'm a loyal customer already. Time to replace my pass side LCA. Felt a pull when I first bought my 05 645ci. I can definitely do it myself. Missing a car lift but have all the other tools! :D
Felt a tiny pull when I applied the brake. A mechanic told me it was the forward LCA which he said is a common item. Guess I'll have to do the rear facing as well to keep things even.
Great video! I bought my bushings at BavAuto, will be changing only the UCA bushings and change the whole arm with BJ later if it fails as the pair of bushings was only $50.
BAV AUTO made clear and concise videos.
Get the schwaben tools ball joint separator that has a 80mm max opening because working on my 98 528i and so far the tie rod on one side and the upper control arm was stuck in the sleeve when trying to remove from the knuckle it will be a PITA if you also have rusted bolts and you finally break them loose to find out you ball joints are all stuck in the sleeves on the knuckle so be proactive and get that tool you will thank yourself later
Torque specs would be the cherry on top
Great Video! The camera work shows the job to be very easy. I wish you would include the torque specs in the video.
+Barry Hansen Yes, torque specs would be great...
THATS HOW THEY GET YOU TO BUY THE BOOK, IM SURE YOU CAN GOOGLE SEARCH OR SEARCH BMW FORUMS TO FIND THAT INFO.
just did mine on my 2002 bmw 745li everything was east except when I tried to put the new one on it wouldn't line up but I finally got it on... thanks for the video
Great information on how to do it yourself
you are so calm and relaxt..love to learn from youre videos...hope you can do more e39 videos...you have one how to replace oil sump casket of an e39 ??
Great tutorial! very well explained. I think I can do this on my E66 750LI
This is a very good job sir, very nice. i like your videos, im in a automotive mechanic training in Germany for 3 years now (almost done) so your videos are very useful and interesting for me.
thank you!
Great tutorial, easy to see exactly what’s being done! Thanks.
Wonderful instructional. Can I use this as a guide to for my 2009 Z4?
The ball-joint pins on these later-model BMWs are not tapered and, therefore, are not pressed into tapered receiver holes. That's why they just "fall apart" when the nut is removed. You can use a thread locking compound on the old nuts, if new ones are not available.
otto so monotone yet so smart and resourceful!!
Thanks - very helpful and informative. The video was about 17 mins so I expect the time to complete at about 30 mins each?
Great work and thank you for a very helpful video I have been searching for this for quite some time now and you just made it clear so keep doing what you are doing an awesome job.
Yes thank you for the info and great video. I’m learning the E38 repairs from you and really enjoy your videos.
Excellent tutorial many thanks 👍🏻👏👏
Very great video! I have been working on my daughter's first car.....an 04 BMW 530i....a lot!! But nonetheless I think it to be a solid car still. Thanks again
Super helpful video. Thanks for the professional information.
Thank you guys so very much. I appreciate all your videos!!!
ERRATA for a 2003 745i, things that can go wrong and how to fix them.
-- USE a rubber mallet to knock the wheel down the strut, JUST far enough to get the ball joint out. Also, try the crowbar as shown in the video to bring it down. When putting it back up, you DO need a jack of some kind. Then make sure you are lifting on the lower/rear ball joint so that it is lifting the wheel assembly straight up, directly under the center of the strut, or it can bind. If using a floor jack, use a piece of wood between the jack and the ball joint so you don't damage the grease seal. Also, miss the sheet metal flange when lifting. I used the rubber mallet with the jack to get it to go back in place.
-- When dropping the wheel assembly down on the strut, it can come all the way down, off the strut, (for NO value). When you lift it back into the strut, there is a TAB behind the wheel on the strut, that must travel up and down the clamp assembly. You MUST alight the strut with this tab, or it will never go back. It can also get twisted over to one side and bind, and you will see the car lift, instead of the wheel on strut. (I used a small mirror from the outside of the wheel well, while the jack lifted it into place.) Use large pliers to grab the strut and easily twist it to align the tab.
-- NOTE that if replacing the other lower/rear control arm, you can't get the new arm in, while the wheel is down from the strut--it must be up and in-place. (This may have made it easier to drop it down too far, with it off. Try replacing this whole arm BEFORE you drop it from the strut.)
-- My car only had the one nut and bolt on the wheel assembly clamp, and not the extra 17 MM bolt.
-- My car has a plastic shield around the frame bolt on the strut, that comes off by hand.
-- May car has a NASTY plastic AIR RAM, coming from the front grill, directly behind the frame bold at a 45 deg. angle, ONLY 1.5 INCHES AWAY from that bolt!! Push hard and you can get a torque wrench in there, but just barely! Now after you take the nut off, get a BIG CROWBAR and move the plastic out of the way far enough to pull a 4" bolt out. But before that, you will likely have to take some of the wheel liner bolts out that are next to it. While I'm sure you could remove the whole wheel well liner and many other things to remove that vent, (that vent goes directly into the wheel well), I think forcing it away with some bolts removed is a better method.
-- When putting weight / stress on the wheel before tightening the frame nut / bolt to 80 ft/lbs, have someone at least sit in the car. I used the jack method to lift the wheel, the way most shops likely do when replacing the strut. You'd be surprised how far it moves with someone sitting in that seat, though.
I was able to peel back the fender liner and maneuver the control arm out & in without releasing the strut.
Very good, clearly explained and helpful video.
Awesome video. Mine we're replace right before I purchased my 04 e60.
Hey big a have a question?! 1st let me say your videos was perfect and very easy to follow but I also have another problem with my steering mechanism now if you look on your video when you’re under the car there is the sway bar and another aluminum round piece that’s a welded to the body of the car right next to the sway bar would you happen to know what that is called or where I can find one to replace mine’s.. please and thank you
so wonderful but what was the thrust arm problem ? that seems to me very clean and intact . how we can check and diagnose them before change ?
Excellent video, thank you very much
Great video. I'm in the middle of changing my thrust arm out and the nut did spin off a little but now it is so bound up causing the ball joint to spin and I'm breaking Torx40 sockets due to the binding. The nut is backed off flush with the tip of the bolt. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this; heat, nut breaker, dremel?
Those bolts are so tight.Hand tools never break them lose.
You need to lift more, bro
This is a good video for the info but it will rarely be this easy to get parts loose when your car is driven a fair amount it won’t be this clean
The ball joint pin came out very easily it normally is a real pain to take out.
What if some one wants to use the same nuts rather then buying new locking ones, is there any way you can do that? I did not use new locking nuts when I did it on my E38. Its a bit late now I guess.
I'm amazed if non mechanics are trying to do this in their driveways.
Nie trzeba odkręcać mocowania amortyzatora ! Wystarczy najpierw wyjąć drugą stronę i gdy delikatnie wygnie się sworzeń przy kole to całość schodzi !
Jan S prevedi bo
You guys are great. Very helpful videos.
Thank you so much for the great video. It was very very helpful. Piease keep the videos coming. Thanks again.
Great video,
I'm new in car mechanic and I'm in a country that they don't know to much about cars.
But what does that part do if you need to changed? is it avoiding sound when drive on a bumpy road?
On my E39 528 Balljoint is tapered and you will need balljoint separator/propane torch and some sweat to pop it up - NOT EASY. It will not just come out.
Otto (Gordon) since there is no Bentley manual for the 745li, I need the torque settings for the different bolts on the upper control arm....otherwise, a great diy
Thanks
Bart Neuman
Thank you, thank you, thank you.. it would have been pay roll deduction to have that done at the shop.. no problem with this r&r..
Such a great video and then you cannot specify the torqs and people should read the bmw manual?
Outstanding instructional video...well done!
Thank you for an owner of two older X5's
Good Video Presentation.. I'm replacing my front control arms with OEM Lemforder for my 2016 Audi. Is it recommended that a wheel alignment is performed in a timely manner.
Thank you .. That was very good video
Hi BavarianAuto, thank you very much for your reply to my question, lot of respect to you your tops.
Very grateful! Thanks for the very informative
Video!
Thanks so much for putting these videos up. You save the semi-delusional DIY'ers (like myself) untold gobs of time, sweat, and money. I have an E65, 2002 745i and had the upper control arms replaced but still have a small amount of shimmy with moderate to hard braking (It was much worse before the upper control arm replacement). The mechanic said the rearward control arm bushings were worn too. After watching this, I think it's a job I can handle. Are there any special secrets I should know before I proceed? Thanks again.
Remember to final tighten the bushing bolts/nuts with the suspension compressed .... not hanging.
Gave me confidence to try this vs $1,000.00 bill
Michael McConnell $1000? I would charge $35 labor for each side, who ever quoted you $1000 is trying to rob you
How did the diy go for you??
Enteraname stealer*
Anyone know the torque specs for the this?
Hello, can you make a video about E39 control arms ?
I didnt quite understand how far to compress the suspension before tightning the bushing bolt. What should I look for to start tightning?
This is one of the best videos!!!
Is this the same for an e70 x5? Also, what are the torque specs for all these bolts and nuts that you tightened?Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the great video. I have a 2002 X5 3.0
it has a vibration when braking on the freeway or downhill on the front driver side. I wast told to replace rotors. I did replace new rotors, brakes and the problem still there. later I replaced the UPPER control arm and links on both sides and the problem still there. rotated tires and still the same. Would this be the problem? or any more ideas? I will appreciate it. car has 165k but I would still drive it.
Thanks for the very clear tutorial. Do I have to take my BMW for alignment after this work?
While you are not changing any alignment settings (none are involved), manufacturing differences between the old an new part could cause a change in the toe setting. For this reason, it would not hurt to consider a check of the front toe.
BavarianAuto Fantastic video, very informative. I will be getting your steering knucle spreader tool though - seems more efficient than the screwdriver.
Question for you guys though - you where installing the Meyle parts. I will be replacing failed Meyle HD thrust arms due them failing after about 60K kilometers (which seems very premature to me). Would you recommend Meyle HD again, or should I go with Lemfeorder? (I know, I know.. it's like a Mac vs PC debate :-D ).
P.S. Also, thrust arms affect caster, not toe specs :)
Adrian P Yes, the knuckle spreader is the way to go. We found and started stocking the spreader just after this video.
Yes, 36-ish thousand miles does seem a bit early for the Meyle arms to fail. Is it the bushings or the ball joints that have failed? We certainly would not recommend against using the Lemfoerder units as replacement.
The thrust arms can indeed affect the toe, as well as the caster. However, the only adjustment available, on a stock suspension, is the toe setting. Caster and camber are not adjustable.
Nope
Why isn't everyone as good as you?
I just want to replace the buching should I take the hole arm out and press out the buching . Thanks
Hi BavarianAuto, super video on Replacing the control arm i love the way you explain and show how to things right, may i ask is it the same on an E39 03 model? and thanks once again.
The E39 is similar, but does have some differences. You do need to loosen and move the shock to access the ball-joint nut (similar to what is shown here). The configurations will be slightly different. If it is a 6-cylinder, the thrust arm (or upper control arm) will go to the rear of the vehicle vs. the front as shown here. Finally, the ball joints will be the common earlier tapered pin type that requires a puller to separate from the hub. Take a look at our video on replacing control arms an a 3-series (E30, E36, etc) for a view of separating this type of ball joint.
We really don't have enough info to give you a good diagnosis. You may have a power steering pump issue, but this is just a guess, from what you've noted.
this video very helpful wish every video where like this
Nice job way to go!
Great video! One question - is an alignment needed after replacement of the thrust arm?
Chad Browning I heard it is by the BMW Dealership.
What are symptoms of bad thurst arm on bmw ? Have light steering wheel shaking then braking lightly (no shaking then pushing brake pedal harder) on my e39.
Otto, can you show the torque specs for the bolts removed? Thank you!
I'm going to replace the front upper and lower control arms (1998 BMW 540i). Do I need to replace the bolts on the bushing ends or just new locking nuts? Would it be beneficial to lightly grease the ball joint end before inserting? Thanks for your time..
Do u have a video on how to do this on the e90
Just the same
With the 2007 X3 E83 3.0si, the thrust arm ball joint is attached from underneath to the spindle with two screws. How would you suggest getting this one out?
Thanks,
I know you mention that it would work on a 2012 328i F30, i just want to double check that. Would this tutorial be the same for a 2012 BMW 328i F30?
I should be able to replace the hydro bearing only and not the arm for a 2008 528i?
Hi,
when the rubber mounting f pull rod are damaged.
Question:
What are the Symptoms?
Regards
Bardzo pomocne, dziękuję
Very lelpfull, thx !
excellent guide thanks Otto!
Nice job and very clear