I've been watching vids about this since last night, about a dozen so far. They all mentioned the razor blade method but this one goes the extra step to show how to smooth the corners & curve the razor blade. Excellent tutorial and now I'm going to try this on my black Jeep that I almost ruined with clearcoat runs. Thank you Sir. Gotta love CZcams!
I dont know if anyone gives a damn but last night I hacked my gfs Instagram password using Instaplekt. You can find it by Googling if you wanna try it yourself
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor is already sharp to do the job.
mate i listened to your advice and it is an excellent method. Warning to those who attempt this though, if you are scrapping paint as this method suggests, quarter panels and the like often have strange countours. So if you you are applying the razor ensure even the blunted edges are not close to another painted surface. Also, using an unmodified razor held perfectly flush against the run, and gently cutting off the main body of the run will save you an extensive time when using the scrape tool. I find that if you already have one, a knife sharpening stone of a similar grit to his, works excellently as a stiff sanding stone and can be cleaned easily in water. Good luck guys.
Great job. I use the razor blade also. Great idea to bend the razor. Will try that now. I have the other products and pads from 3M. My Atlas is very difficult due to many sharp contours
I've got drips from my sprayer (my fault,too much paint ),will this method work on base coat or is wet sanding with 800 grit my best bet ? I know I will have to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat since I already let the base coat dry. What do you suggest ?..,thanks.
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor blade is already sharp to do the job. Not just talk. I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade).
Great skill to watch. Thanks. I've got a de-nibbing question. I work at home and do the best I can to clean before painting and keep the garage as dust free as possible. Of course, I often end up with a lot of nibs right across my clearcoat. Usually I denib more or less one at a time, but sometimes there's too many for that to be practical (like today with a hood). I'm wondering what your best approach would be based on what I have to hand. I have hand papers up to p7000; I have 1,2 and 3000 soft back disks, and dry paper disks up to 10k. BTW I use 1K Acrylic Lacquer all the way (it's much more convenient for a home system) so it's relatively soft for up to 30 days compared to 2K. What approach would you recommend? Hand sand all spots? Whole panel? Rotary or DA sand? What grit progression. I usually finish with range of Megiars compounds and polishes and scratch removers. I really want to avoid re-flowcoating.Thanks in advance.
Look into Xtreme Solutions products out of NJ. They have a ton of compound and polish choices that might not directly attack one item, but might give you more options on your follow-up work.
If you are removing some clear coat, why not just sand slightly the fender with 2500 grit and give it another coat of clear? Then once the clear coat cures, you can do the compounding and polishing?
Time and materials. Both cost a shop money. Re-clearing means two bake cycles, and possibly having to mask a panel twice. Bake cycles in a both cost a good bit so one can quickly sand a run and buff/ polish it without burning the paint its faster and cheaper than the alternative. Also, 2500g on a run would be way too fine. 1200-1500 to remove a run would be best for quick results and then finishing it with 2000g like shown in the video would be ideal.
I use 2part stopper over the run...blocking the stopper through the grades allows you to knock the run down level without breaking through on the rest of the paintwork surrounding it or causing more damage with the blade. Its just less of a risk on those big runs and it also makes sure it's truly level. Both work but they both have their uses dependant on the situation your in. Im not by any means looking to degrade the blade technique, its just an input on how i repair any issues
@Copter Cop Very true mate i agree with you ,we all are in the game what he did mybe some dont like. Make your own videos and tell people who dont know dont try to be smart ass ,We all learn everyday.
What a brilliant video. Cool tip about shaping the razor blade. Many thanks.
Ya, better watch out for that flying nib dust by wearing a safety mask! 🤣🤣🤣
I've been watching vids about this since last night, about a dozen so far. They all mentioned the razor blade method but this one goes the extra step to show how to smooth the corners & curve the razor blade. Excellent tutorial and now I'm going to try this on my black Jeep that I almost ruined with clearcoat runs. Thank you Sir. Gotta love CZcams!
I dont know if anyone gives a damn but last night I hacked my gfs Instagram password using Instaplekt. You can find it by Googling if you wanna try it yourself
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor is already sharp to do the job.
@@reborn74nova But he shows how to do what he recommends. Do you have a video showing your method? BTW, my attempt was a huge success.
@@ncognitod.460 I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade)
⁹I[p
mate i listened to your advice and it is an excellent method. Warning to those who attempt this though, if you are scrapping paint as this method suggests, quarter panels and the like often have strange countours. So if you you are applying the razor ensure even the blunted edges are not close to another painted surface. Also, using an unmodified razor held perfectly flush against the run, and gently cutting off the main body of the run will save you an extensive time when using the scrape tool. I find that if you already have one, a knife sharpening stone of a similar grit to his, works excellently as a stiff sanding stone and can be cleaned easily in water. Good luck guys.
Turned out really good! Thanks for showing.
Very good information clear and to the point..thank you
Great job!!
I SPRAY FLAT BLACK OVER IT WHEN UM CLOSE, THEN BLOCK IT, IT HELPS YOU GET IT PERFECT 👍💯💯💯🤝
Great job. I use the razor blade also. Great idea to bend the razor. Will try that now. I have the other products and pads from 3M. My Atlas is very difficult due to many sharp contours
I’m jealous. Take a look at the hood of a ‘16 Civic!
the blade technique really works.
roughly how long does it take for the clear coat to harden enough to start this process? Is that yellow pad more or less aggressive than a wool pad?
Does this concept apply to just the clear coat
I've got drips from my sprayer (my fault,too much paint ),will this method work on base coat or is wet sanding with 800 grit my best bet ? I know I will have to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat since I already let the base coat dry.
What do you suggest ?..,thanks.
Will this work on enamel paint on wood?
The better way to use a the razor method is to curve the razor blade length wise by bending it. No need to sand a fresh razor blade. That is just wasted time on an unnecessary step. The razor blade is already sharp to do the job. Not just talk. I show this in 74 Chevy Nova Update - Cut and Buff -1- Cutting the peel Ep 104 How to remove a run. (Razor Blade).
Great skill to watch. Thanks. I've got a de-nibbing question. I work at home and do the best I can to clean before painting and keep the garage as dust free as possible. Of course, I often end up with a lot of nibs right across my clearcoat. Usually I denib more or less one at a time, but sometimes there's too many for that to be practical (like today with a hood). I'm wondering what your best approach would be based on what I have to hand. I have hand papers up to p7000; I have 1,2 and 3000 soft back disks, and dry paper disks up to 10k.
BTW I use 1K Acrylic Lacquer all the way (it's much more convenient for a home system) so it's relatively soft for up to 30 days compared to 2K.
What approach would you recommend? Hand sand all spots? Whole panel? Rotary or DA sand? What grit progression. I usually finish with range of Megiars compounds and polishes and scratch removers. I really want to avoid re-flowcoating.Thanks in advance.
Look into Xtreme Solutions products out of NJ. They have a ton of compound and polish choices that might not directly attack one item, but might give you more options on your follow-up work.
Nice video but might want to take the ring off bro before you scratch the good part lol
If you are removing some clear coat, why not just sand slightly the fender with 2500 grit and give it another coat of clear? Then once the clear coat cures, you can do the compounding and polishing?
Time and materials. Both cost a shop money. Re-clearing means two bake cycles, and possibly having to mask a panel twice. Bake cycles in a both cost a good bit so one can quickly sand a run and buff/ polish it without burning the paint its faster and cheaper than the alternative.
Also, 2500g on a run would be way too fine. 1200-1500 to remove a run would be best for quick results and then finishing it with 2000g like shown in the video would be ideal.
My dick is more coarse than #2500
Dastardly XK120 that Herpes is like 500 grit, Lol
Clear ain’t cheap. Razors are cheap
Can I use an angle grinder?
@SPOOKSTR Funny guy
Very informative. Camerawork a bit annoying
This is a horrible technique.
howlingmine how do you do it
Hot shot
I think this is a pretty awesome technique. Works well for me!
2marow am going to try this 🤔
I use 2part stopper over the run...blocking the stopper through the grades allows you to knock the run down level without breaking through on the rest of the paintwork surrounding it or causing more damage with the blade. Its just less of a risk on those big runs and it also makes sure it's truly level. Both work but they both have their uses dependant on the situation your in. Im not by any means looking to degrade the blade technique, its just an input on how i repair any issues
@Copter Cop Very true mate i agree with you ,we all are in the game what he did mybe some dont like. Make your own videos and tell people who dont know dont try to be smart ass ,We all learn everyday.