LT230 test bench update
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
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FYI the decibel scale is logarithmic so a difference in 1 decibel is 25% more sound energy
Congrats: Your first EV! BTW ,Vibrations? No it is just real life operation..
Good video you're only a couple of steps away from making an electric land rover Thanks Danny
Sounds like a gear meshing noise from pinion gears in diff in TB, which would make sense that you hear it when in reverse as they don’t mesh as well in reverse. Maybe?
Queen Victoria approves of this test bench. 😉 ✔️
Very interesting. Those thermal images are amazingly detailed, must be very useful trying to locate hot bearings etc? Looking forward to the update.
Looks like your prop is out of phase try in phase, great vid Mike 👍
Mom's CuisinArt might make a little heat with just the fluid. I guess there's a little friction though...
MEchanical noise is usually a sign of inefficiency - exhaust being an exception.
You have a Disco 1 front shaft, which are out of phase because of the steep angle of the Disco 1 front diff. I would use a correctly phased (opposite) shaft and have the motor angle exactly the same as the LT230 angle.
Tried it today - made no difference
Mike, as a suggestion for your test bench I would suggest using accelerometers on the transfer case housing to measure vibration, attaching a good one and then attaching a bad one for comparison! Additionally, I would also install a rotation meter and ammeter, because knowing the value of the electric current consumed by the engine, it is possible to know the torque at each adjusted rotation.
Just a thought: wouldn't using the rubber flex joints, like on D1s and D2s rears, eliminate the possibility of hard shocks through the driveline. The reason LR used them on the rear was for this exact reason, to make driveline smoother down the back. But while you're getting the driveshaft checked .. get the flexi yokes fitted up (and obviously balanced too) and use rubber mounts for driveshaft.
Yes it is a good idea! Just need to find the parts!
We like you Mike. We like you with fingers too. Please put some covers over those spinning bits.
Lol! You worry too much..
It is just the same as a lathe. Treat it the same.
Nice setup Mike, especially with the speed controller. Really controllable. They certainly get quite hot. Do you get such a thing as a pinless universal joint of suitable size? I know you get them for socket sets etc. Or adjust the setup so the shaft is running as true as possible and run it through a rubber (flexible) driveshaft coupler?
I experimented with a direct drive and JP machined it up - it was better, but there was some discrepancy on the shaft when at speed causing it to vibrate - I will try a flex coupling, but the motor drive shaft is 45 mm and a real odd ball to find a coupling
I do like your test bed Mike and I am mesmerized watching the infrared film ; mechanical porn ! What your vibration problem is I can't think , but a bent shaft would do it ! Lol
Could the knock be the input shaft splines wobbling perhaps? Normally if it was bolted up to a gearbox the spline would be supported by the gearbox, not on the input gear splines so could cause a knock depending on how or tight or loose the splines fit together maybe?
Correct! I worked this out at 3 am this morning! The mass of the shaft is too much for the play in the spline of the input gear - I noticed that Ashcroft's now have a lightweight shaft for testing but only for a few seconds
czcams.com/video/6jgdUT_OvC0/video.html
So today I am going to do away with the shaft and do a direct drive and see what happens - my motor is almost the same diameter as a gearbox so should fit nice. Also as the LT230 frame is fixed, I can adjust the motor frame to be exactly in line with the transfer case
@@BritannicaRestorations I was thinking, and it’s a bit complicated to make but quite doable, is make an adapter to bolt the transfer case and motor together with a bearing supported shaft in the middle? That’s the route I’d be taking if I was making one. Wouldn’t be too hard to cobble something together with some plate steel and using mounted bearings for the shaft. You made an adapter for your gm v6 conversion from memory so anything is possible.
Very smooth!
put some load on the output shafts! It doesn't need to be much, maybe a couple of radiator fans.... enough to ensure that the backlash is fully taken up...
Bet it’s harmonics between the low frequency motor drive and the LT230 internals
Maybe!
DO you think the loose prop bolts could have something to do with it?
Nope...
Does it sound worse due to it not being rubber mounted and it is resenating through the bench
The LT230 is rubber mounted
Sounds like a bearing noise .
Could it be backlash in the Helical gears allowing it to move/shunt forwards & backwards when. In reverse?
Maybe...
Mike, this is an excellent idea ! But it sounds not good.
I wish you could compare to a good one.
You do not need much out of line to make noise!
Intermediate gear bearings
no
Not being snarky but your UJs are not "clocked" correctly, maybe since the spline popped out. This can cause all sorts of weird vibrations. (I am writing this early in the video). Cut the tack welds off and reweld with the UJs in line with each other.
nope these were as taken of the vehicle - nothing to do with phasing
@@BritannicaRestorations ok, can only guess. But I have known the phasing to be a problem. Hopefully we'll all have the answer soon, well done on the test rig, a lot better than trying to investigate on the car...
I worked out what it is - video soon
@@BritannicaRestorations well done, will wait for the update.