Your Paste Wax Questions Answered!
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- In this video i run through the most common questions i have received on my 'Make Your OWN Paste Wax' video!
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Timestamps:
0:00 - What food safe paste wax options do you use?
8:17 - Does linseed oil overpower the smell of beeswax?
9:30 - Does paste wax effect the colour of a stain when applying over it?
10:47 - Does paste wax 'go off' or expire?
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Great concept Luke, and some easy, useful content!
@@FixitFingers Thanks James
for your old paste wax, you can heat it up a bit until it liquefies and then remove the solid (skin) pretty easily, when it cools back down the remainder is still good.
Thanks for your suggestion, i hadn't even considered that, such a simple solution. Thanks again
i think what you were trying to convey about the wax skinning over is that it will still cure or polymerize in the wax as it does when you have on the surface of wood. it requires oxygen to cure. being in the wax makes that process very very slow, so usually only the surface will cure and the rest of the oil in the pastewax below the surface skin is usually just fine. using a boiled linseed oil will result in it skinning over a bit faster.
i've done my own boiled linseed oil a number of times and that stuff will skin pretty easily, but just like the pastewax, you can break the skin and the stuff below the skin is perfectly fine to use. the commercial stuff has some kind of retarder in it or maybe the solvents just stop the curing process on their own acting as a retarder. not sure.
i use pure tung oil exclusively for cutting boards and other wooden kitchen utensils. it holds up to hot water and washing far better than linseed oil in my experience. they both work just fine, but i have to reapply linseed oil more often, which i'd rather not do. i have all wooden utensils in my kitchen and often use wooden bowls and such. going to tung oil has saved me quite a bit of work over the long run.
i've tried flax seed oil and it took longer to cure than raw linseed oil for some reason. only ever tried it once and pretty much decided against it from that test. it was too expensive, took too long to cure, and was about the same durability as raw linseed oil. didn't have the interest in experimenting with it beyond that and didn't have the equipment at the time to boil it to see if that helped.
hope that's helpful to someone.
Yes, i was trying to convey the linseed oil can still cure when in paste wax form just slower.
Thanks for your added insight into paste wax and the oils you use. You seem to have more experience with its use around food utensils and bowls etc than i do. Much appreciated
The problem with many commercial oils is they use cobalt and manganese salts as drying agents. There are some commercial oils that don't include these metal salts, check the product safety sheet for ingredients.
Mineral oil is for weirdos - you see the chopping board channels just dumping their crappy boards into big containers of it. Like you said, curable plant oils plus homemade paste wax is the real deal.
Thanks for sharing this
I have a question about food safe timber for utensils, I have some blackwood & also some cassarina to try and turn into something decent
I'm not too savvy with wood species, i have however seen people online selling carved spoons and chopping boards using both those timbers.
I haven't personally used them so i can't say 'yes' unless i know for sure. But it would seem they're fine. Most timbers usually are.
Sorry i couldn't give you a definite answer, but I just don't have enough experience with them.
Thanks for that appreciate your time & thoughts on the subject have a good day
For food safe, I use coconut oil.
Thanks for sharing. I have had bad experiences with coconut oil in the past so i avoid it.
1)I have had it go rancid
2) i find in the winter it solidifies in the paste wax
3)as a straight oil finish i find it doesn't dry well leaving an oily surface but not soaking in properly, i suspect due to the high saturated fat content making the oil thicker.
But use what works for you
Would you actually want to use a wax on anything that is coming into contact with food? I would use natural food oils that don't go rancid but not waxes. Either that or apply nothing at all - making sure that the wood itself is food safe, of course.
Depending on what it is I'd apply oil then paste wax to things like cutting boards, the outside of kuksa's (mug), wooden spoons etc. i wouldn't add it to the inside of a mug however. I essentially oil everything first so it won't dry out then add paste wax to surfaces, except for inside mugs (boiling water would remove it quickly). I find paste wax is great on chopping boards making them easier to clean
@@AussieWoodshedcould I still use it on the inside of a mug if it’s only intended for cold drinks? It may be used for carbonated drinks however. Thanks in advance!😊
@@nea.m5405 personally i think it should be fine. I would
1) apply the paste wax, let is soak in a bit
2) wipe off the excess and make sure it's full dry, which may vary based on your climate.
3) rinse the mug with water and dry then it should be fine
This is what i did with my kuksa, i ever use mine for hot drinks (i didn't think it was a problem) and haven't noticed any issue so far.
But usually if you're using a mug for hot drinks and they're made of beech which mine is they don't need finish on the inside
@@AussieWoodshed ok thank you for all the great feedback, I’m gonna try and use the paste wax for the mug then and see how it works out! This project is mostly for learning purposes anyway so if it doesn’t work out great on my first ever try it’s not the end of the world and hopefully I’ve learned something from it😁 I will keep watching your vids and try and learn as well as I can from them, thanks again!😄
@@nea.m5405 Hope the mug turns out great. The great thing about crafts like woodworking is we are always learning new things and ways of doing tasks, every new person brings a new perspective that may have been overlooked or forgotten.
I learn new things from nearly every video thanks to the viewers which i love, you never stop learning.