EBAY / AMAZON Oil Catch Can Review
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- Install Video: • HOW TO: Install Oil Ca...
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Due to factors beyond the control of ImStricken06 (and its affiliates), I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ImStricken06 assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ImStricken06 recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ImStricken06, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ImStricken06. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I put a catcha can on my Silverado and it works great!!! All the hardware very simple install, $25, ....
7:06 "these are not cheap".... YES, they are. Look on eBay $27.00 shipped.
you probably dont give a shit but if you are stoned like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all of the latest movies and series on Instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend recently =)
@Kylo Nikolai Definitely, been using Instaflixxer for months myself :D
BEST MOST UNDERSTANDABLE EXPLANATION ON THE WHOLE OF CZcams. BRAVO MATE BRAVO AND THANKYOU!!!!
i had one of those oil catch cans before w/c had a tube on the side w/c served as its oil level indicator and in time that rubber viewfinder grew brittle and just broke. i just decided to replace that w/ something like what's shown here in the vid. so far, so good.
alright, you've got me convinced. i need a catch can. and i'd probably go the non vented system as well
Same setup as the $25 versions on ebay and amazon. I would find some basic loose breather foam for the outlet side to help lessen the airborne oil back into the engine.
Those “blue rubber fittings” are air tight fittings and are used in industrial and automotive applications all the time.
This catch can reminds me of the one I had on a 72 Plymouth Road Runner and later on a 73 AMC Hornet. The unit had a plastic see through bottom cover and a replacable filter above the plastic in a metal housing. Simple to remove plastic, change the filter, dump out the gunk, down the road. Filter replacement performed on the vehicle. Living at the time in Massachusetts, RAIN would fill the plastic and I had to change the filter often. No so in California. Less rain. But with smog laws, I'd have to switch over to the plain Jane PCV system every 2 years.
However. If this can works, IT'S WORTH IT ! !
This unit is all billet aluminum is really good
I have that same catch can on my Grand National, I hated the hose it came with so I switched it to AN fittings.
Well done. Great explanation!
You can use fuel/oil line and splice in a clear glass fuel filter to see how it looks inside the line if its a concern to folks. Just need a high micron filter instead of a low micron filter. They can be found fairly easily in low end glass fuel filters.
Aye I got the red evil energy one and I can say these things WORK
3:45 couldn't you connect an addition PCV valve were the breather mates to the top of the catch can to act as a check valve? I was planning to order Vincos Universal catch can with breather form Amazon.
I’ve had this can for a few years now, before this particular one got as “popular” as it is now. What I did, is u got a chore boy from Walmart (the metal mesh dish scrubbers) and cut about 1/4 of it off and put it inside the ported baffle. This still allows air through no problem, but gives the oil vapors something more to condense on and collect at the bottom of the tank more efficiently. I empty it every oil change and it still surprises me how much it actually stops.
TheTwinWithin_FZ07 excellent job at making this can more efficient. I bet it collects oil and Vapour like crazy now.
i keep reading everyone doing that
Cliff Walden Yes I used fine stainless steel scrubbing pads not the course curly type.
Steal wool?
Steel wool?
I have a 03 BMW 325xi do you think I should get one of these and delete and remove the ccv
How do I install the hard drive into this occ ?? Mine also didn't come with a hard drive . Just fittings and a shitty tube that collapsed under pressure
would u recommend this can for a diesel engine?
I'm running a duel setup on my Subaru. These work well, but I had issues with the gunk and moisture sloshing up into the outlet, sending it back into the intake. Added some more baffles using modified bathtub strainers. Hopefully it helps.
I have a homemade oil catch system with 3 stages. The first catches mostly water; the second not much of anything, for some reason , and the third, accumulates a nice puddle of oil. Pull the hose off the PCV and the inlet should be dry and not dripping wet as the unmodified factory set up will be.
Couldn't you reverse the hoses? Then basically the oil vapor has to grow through the baffle and into the engine which should be easier for air to move through the baffle than oil
Chris Vong I’ve made my own catch cans using 3”” or 4” schedule 40 pvc plumbing fittings. Inside I use a 3/4” layer of bbs between two metal disks punched full of holes to condense the oil/water. The gasses are routed into the container just below the bbs and out the top. Just be certain that the punched holes are smaller than the bbs ....you don’t want them sucked into the intake. I place my unit up front where air is coolest for better condensation in the unit. For best results put two units in series . My Saturn Sky Redline has two ventilation sources, one to the pvc and another to the turbo...important to use catch cans on both.
The one with the breather is for valve cover vent
Hi.. i got the same exactly catch can and it came with 4 setting and I don’t really know which one to put on cause some are big and some are small and they’re all treaded.. what does that mean ? I’ve read that the small fitting should go on the inlet of the CC and the bigger fitting should go on the outlet , is that true ?
Fantastic explanation, best video I found on you tube about catch can
Does it come with the hard drive, too? It's in the background :P
Inlet and outlet should be reversed. The dirty PCV air should enter the can, expand rapidly and then turn 180 degrees to exit out the filtered side towards the engine intake manifold. Mishimoto catch cans work this way as do many other 'premium' brands.
What you saying its best to use the filter oil catch can?
Would this work on a 1999 Corvette. Vette catch can are like 180.00+
Just went to your link for this on Amazon...It's nothing like the one you're demonstrating!!
Check Ebay, there is one just like it but without Filter... Which you can do it on your own for 15 Bucks!
Because he wants that amazon money.. shows a $20-35 catch can..links one thats over $100.. that link is a amazon associates link..each buy he gets money.
HorsePlay Motoring aupaïu
does this work in diesel?
8:10 That was an Orb man! On the lower right of the screen appearing from the laptop and going upwards. That was amazing!
McKinney Texas Zeds it's a piece of dust
a fucking orb lol! its dust....
My friend.. part of oil steem must go n lubricates valves n guides n pistons motions
Very nice explanation about the breather filter. Without any valve there is possibility to reject oil vapors via this filter when you close the throttle and there is less vacuum than crank pressure
Yeah, it's good on cars with throttle body and only when it's closed, but useless on the ones without it cause you'll just be leaking vacuum all the time, plus all the gunk will start settling into your engine bay.
Do u get a oil smell from this
So this not needed for port injection ?
that baffle is two pieces u can put pot scratcher in the baffle as a filter
Thanks for sharing
negative vacuum?? that would be pressure right ?
Most don’t understand that the. Piston pressurizes the crankcase on the down stroke more so than blow by.
I is the breather as a vent. All my pcv likes go into it and just vent to atmosphere. All the vacuum lines in the intake are capped off
You should have vacuum from each crank case ..it really helps the seals and alot of other factors too even down to oil longevity ...
Don’t use those clear hose. I bought a similar fuel house red in color for aesthetics.
When my engine is running the hose compressed almost collapsing toward the inside restricting air flow. I took it out and replaced it with the tested 13 bar rated Gates hose for vacuum lines.
Lucc701
The reason it turns into a milkshake is because the oil sits and collects water vapor that normally gets boiled off during engine operation. The main reason why there's more oil and vapor in the intake is because auto manufacturers are allowing wider clearances between the pistons and the bore. For example an engine built between 1990 and 2000 the piston to bore clearance was as tight as 0.005 today's engines are close to 0.010 especially 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
blowby is due to the incapacity for the rings to retain compression/combustion by-products,it's worse when the engine is not broke-in and when the engine is at the end of its life,
usually, the blow-by increases directly with the load applied to an engine.the clearance between the piston and the cylinder is not the main factor in play but the fit of the top and second compression rings in their grooves and the cylinder roundness are very important.
usually, the break-in period of a blueprinted engine is much shorter than the break-in period of a sloppy machined engine as the parts are almost matched before the engine is fired up.
Good point.
Trust No1
Catch cans are more important for vehicles with direct injection. It's not really that necessary for a normally driven port injected car. So for you it's not that big of a deal really.
Np
I want to install a catch can in my car but don't want to take the filtered vapors to the intake. Could I install a minifilter on the catch can outlet side?
No. You'd be creating lower pressure in the crankcase which would give you more blowby.
Certainly is a bargain buy at like $20. Idk if anyone else noticed, but the baffling is on the wrong port. I suppose hooking it up "backwards" would remedy that. In addition, it probably wouldn't hurt to add some fine steel wool in the baffle cup since the unit isn't filtered. So add steel wool, hook up "incorrectly" and BAM, good bargain for the buck!
Todd Smith should the baffling be on the inlet or outlet
No drain plug?
So, in lamest terms. The hose that connects to the nipple on the valve head cover should connect to the inlet of the occ? I have a 2013 ford focus direct-injection engine and want to do this modification.
yes you are right.
valve cover -to- can INlet.
can OUTlet -to- intake manifold INlet.
+ImStricken06 thank you very much.
I got the same can on eBay for about 20 bucks and it came with breather to run either set up
breather for vacuum leak. You don't need a breather!!!
Why does the inlet gas/oil go down through the baffle? Shouldn't the baffle be before the outlet?
Ricky for it can condense through the baffle and drip down to the bottom, while the clean air goes up
The filter should be at the outlet ...
Actually it is correct, If the baffle is used on the outlet oil will be accumulated in the baffle and sucked into the intake system.
The one with the breather is not smog legal.
I got exact same one from eBay for 60$ CAD. It's little hard to find. But do that versus buying from Amazon for 120. Cheers.
25$ on amazon now
Serious question. When that catch can fills up do I pour it back into my motor or dump it all out and add new oil. SERIOUS QUESTION
Dump it. It’s gonna be and look like sludge. It will be milky and chunky v
L
You can see it on my build with -10an fittings
THe filter is so you can run it as a breather can or a catch can.
that "blue seal" isnt a seal...its one of those push in tube connectors. They are pretty standard on pneumatic machinery.....as long as its a quality brand I don't see any issues using them.
Ive seen a video where someone put steel wool in the baffle. I also saw a video where steel wool was placed in the catch can. Whats your take on this. Do I use steel wool and where does it go.
I put steel wool in the baffle section, it unscrews apart when you take it out. I have 3 of these in my Lancer... No issues after 4 years.
Nicholas Seeto ive been running mine without any steel wool. Straight out of the box and it collects oil so I guess its working fine.
The one in your link is not the one in your video.. its for a mishimoto over $100..
Where do you dump the excess oil in the can once it gets full?? Just curious
jet0577 add 5 tbl spoons sugar....makes a great latte LOL
the best operate close loop or open loop(with filter) ?
please give an example.
Can you give me a diameter of the actual can section itself? My bay is restrictive and I need to know the size. Thanks!
+imstricken06 thanks mate!
+imstricken06 cool man, I was looking into this.
Como is talarlo en un honda civic 2003
Hey man what would you say the volume of oil that these can catches would be before they need to be emptied?
i dump every sunday. but you can wait till half full.
Would you have a guess at about how much is in there in mL or fl oz? Do you think the fittings would be easy enough to replace as my car runs 1/2" breathers. Thanks for the quick reply
Is there a filter on this device? How would it stop the oil from just going through the can back to the intake?
nope, but u can put pot scrubber in it or try what I did ,unscrew the baffle and found out u can uncrew half of the baffle and put a little of pot scrubber
Empty it
I bought two of these on Ebay for 40 bucks each. Same exact one minus the fancy box. It also had the top breather with a block off bolt incase you didnt want to use it. it came with 3/8 barbs and 1/2 barbs incase your vehicle had one or the other. I also put a small piece of stainless steel wool inside the diffuser for additional catch. it screws apart. I would not use that hose. It looks cheesy and is toxic smelling.
Aren't you worried about stainless steel going into your engine?
Do i have to put check valve before get in into inlet?
The pcv valve is a check valve.
Como colocar en un Volvo S80 gracias
After you install an oil catch can, is there anything you can do to clean the motor from all that oil vapour sludge
Time. That us about it. The intake manifold will clean out from the constant flow of and run a lot of valve and fuel injector cleaner to help clean the valves off.
+CSXtrackworker we have direct injection. valves wont be cleaned by flue spray
scrap manifold n get it cleaned
Is that an ide hd!?
Can't tell until you look at the connector. That hot swap unit has both SATA and IDE I believe. Only thing you can tell is that it's a HDD.
You want a closed system, don't use the filter on top it will suck air and will not work properly..
If they made it correctly the breather w/ act like a venturi and pull fresh air into the can.
The real issue should be with fresh air entering the can it likely w/ cause a slower vacuum on the outlet (pvc) side creating build up pressure in the engine n not fully escaping/emptying 100% in the can back into the engine for combustion.
Why wouldn't you want to have a ball valve on the bottom of the can? This would allow you to drain the can without having to take it apart everytime and risk a vacuum leak.
Don’t think check valve is needed pcv will do
the old cars just had a filter, instead of a PCV. By the way, that's not a PCV valve, Positive crank case valve valve is redundant...It's a PCV (the v is for valve0...
V stands for vent, its positive crankcase vent
Positive crankcase ventilation = pcv
It has no bronze filter a bit dodgy
Why don't catch cans have a return line? The oil will still be usable as long as it doesn't sit and collect moisture.
Would you want to run a return line to the oil pan instead of just dumping the cup back in the engine when you check your oil?
Bladsmith
Depends on the build and how much oil goes through the can. If its only a pint or two every thousand miles then the oil won't even be missed just top it off with fresh oil.
The GM Ecotec I would plumb in a return line. That engine is notorious for oil consumption up to a quart every thousand miles due to the baffling in the head and valve cover.
Bob Is The Builder Blow by is disgusting, it is not only oil. Look into a full catch can and see if it resembles anything like oil. You do not want that going back through your engine
Yea, I wouldn't put the oil back into my engine. When I collected oil in my catch can it was at a much lower viscosity than the normal oil so I'm sure it's mixed with fuel.
Alright am g'na catch it if I can
inlet/outlet are wrong on this can. I got mine for 25 bucks on Ebay and I just hooked it up the opposite way.
Dude im looking for a catch can aswell but howd you say its wrong?
I tuned out at "el chepo"
Just order the same can for 34 bucks on eBay.
Got mine for 14 Bucks + with shipping. Pretty much the same thing but without Filter... I made one myself. Works great !!!
me too. lol ....
Jordan Bronson Can you make some pictures what you did
Jordan Bronson Can you make some pictures what you did ?
I got the same one without the lettering for 16 dollars on eBay
The engine internals at the beginning, look like the MR16DDT nissan engine =p
The eBay lines for these sucks, making my G misfire badly, just go to autozone and get a fuel or oil line
Want to test ANY catchcan to see how effective it truly is? Simply install a genuine RX can inline AFTER any catchcan and drive for 1000 miles and measure what each traps and catches. Then do the same test in reverse and see first hand how much oil and other contaminates gets past the average can and is then trapped by the RX. And in reverse, almost nothing gets past the RX. You will find most all trap less than 15-30% max VS the RX at 95% plus.
i would be open to working with you. email me: imstricken@hotmail.com
Sent you an email!
RX Performance Products, LLC will your product work with boosted big block chevys? I would mind trying one out in my race truck to replace a make shift sheet metal one we made a while back.
Email us direct at: RXProducts@aol.com and we can go over any application.
I assume a blow through carb set-up? Or EFI?
its efi.
I would add a divider. Throw that hose away. It will collapse
To properly evacuate the crankcase, you want to provide suction at all times. With a NA application, there is only intake manifold vacuum providing this and that is only present during idle, cruise, and deceleration. When accelerating or at full throttle, the cam overlap will allow reversion pulses to cancel any usable vacuum. So utilizing a dual checkvalve/dual outlet system allows the can to always detect and switch to the strongest evacuation suction source available. With FI (turbo or centrifugal SC) where the intake manifold is pressurized with boost, this becomes even more critical as IM vacuum is only present for a short time and the rest of the operating time no evacuation takes place and the contaminates and un-burnt fuel settle and mix with the engine oil.
For a track only application, a belt driven vacuum pump with vac relief valve is by far the best solution as shown here:
czcams.com/video/-7bGshirEKI/video.html
But these will not live long on the street before wear to the vanes/bearings/seals and shafts requires a rebuild.
Jason, email me direct at: RXProducts@aol.com with info on your build.
Yes, what mods are done to the engine? The 6.4L is still a port fuel injection engine so no intake valve coking issues, but does need the oil mist removed from the crankcase vapors entering the intake air charge. Look at the genuine RX dual valve or the TracyLewisPerformance dual valve system with cleanside for the Charger/Challenger with same engine. I think you already may have contacted TeamRXP.com as they asked for guidance. If not email me direct: APDEG@aol.com Thanks!
That's what A pcv valve does ! Check valve
You got ripped off man. These are about £15-20 here approx. $18-20
That baffle system will not be efficient, must have a coagulation filter medium.
Good luck with that crap product.
The included hose is garbage. Excellent catch can, but crappy hoses.
Too expensive here. Get one at Amazon for 25$
No filtration....no thanks
G Olinger why do you think there is a need for a filter? The can removes the contaminated vapor after the PCV before it reaches the intake.
He uses his laptop as a table and then rotates the metal catch can on top it, :(
Buy once cry once ...??
Its actually "do it right or do it twice"
Do it once do it right
Negative vacuum 🤔...🤣
Lol isn’t that boost? Lol
Maybe meant to say negative pressure......🤔
100+$ for a catch can....
Pancakez the one in his link is different from this one.. hes trying to get paid by amazon..lol.
Cheap as chips. $30 bucks au dont know what you paid.
Lol, they are not cheap ???? Bullshit they sent cheap...you can get one exactly like yours ( mine ) off eBay for 20$ shipped..
$70 bucks on Ebay...
donwolfjr1 I got the same one for 37 on eBay lol
I got the knocked off for 15 bucks... I added the Scourer Pad for Filter :D
Don't use the fittings and hose these come with. Spend the money on a really good can, don't go down the rabbit hole like i did
Lol you ain't got a clue
Too damn expensive
jesus that music sucks
blow by has nothing to do with this
Ron Washburn it actually does buddy
lol where do you think crank case pressure comes from?
blow by has everything to do with this son
lmao
Well, It does but it's not the entire story. most of the pressure comes from blow by but there is also moisture and oil vapor that needs to be vented from the crank case as well.