CH-750 Elevator - DON'T make this MISTAKE! (Ep6)
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 09. 2020
- It's time to finish up the Zenith CH-750 Super Duty elevator, but be careful, and don't make the same mistake that I made!
At the very end you'll see a screen that says, "We'll finish the elevator in Episode 7". Ignore that! I was editing two videos at once and got some screens mixed up!
As always, please SUBSCRIBE, share the video on Facebook, and give it a thumbs up!
PRODUCTS I'VE USED:
Antislip Tape: amzn.to/2TzU32s
Adel Clamps: amzn.to/3ztVsI0
Snap Bushing (you NEED these): amzn.to/3gryDfm
Dremel Flap Wheel: amzn.to/3ztmXle
Air Hose: amzn.to/3wrqezA
Air Hose Fittings: amzn.to/3iIf2dB
Paint Gun (works GREAT for smaller parts): amzn.to/3vqDgMa
Air Filter for Paint Gun: amzn.to/3iHhfX2
USB Data Port (for Dynon): amzn.to/3iLsiOL
My Microphone: amzn.to/35likMa
Paint Mix Cups: amzn.to/2RSM4gc
Fly Cutter (for fuel sender): amzn.to/3gvgXzO
#zenith #ch750 #superduty #aviation #flying - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks Captain for this series!
I like this intro. No fluff, just content.
This has to be one of my favorite build series. Awesome work.
Manuel Saldivar Thank you-glad you enjoy the vids!
There will be so many people that choose a super duty just because of the detail in this series making it easier for a first build for someone.
I hope so-I'd like to see a lot of SD's out there. We can all meet up somewhere for an awesome back-country camping trip!
Keep the good tips coming!
Good video and tidy work too. Smoothing and buffing those edges is well worth the time it takes , not just for looks but reduce stress risers that can sometimes be the origin of fatigue cracks.
Great video, really look forward to these updates , Ihope to build a 650 when I retire and this is a very useful insight into whats involved, keep em coming.
Great-glad the videos help!
Hey Mark! Great tips and content as always! I've been gathering the necessary tools etc etc for my build , I've got central compressed air , but also purchased a cordless electric puller from Milwaukee. It's pretty slick , nice for tight spaces. Seems as though you will beat your 2yr estimate even as meticulous as you are. I'm ADD and wouldn't have it any other way! Thanks again for doing this for us! Blue Skies!
Lookin good man👍
this build looks fun well it is for me Hello from Australia
great work what you have to worry about condensation inside thats what causes corrosion inside closed section
Couldn’t sleep last night and watched 2 hours of your videos. I’m currently building my elevator and ready to skin. I checked my build against yours and dang it… I did the same thing! I corrected (flipped) the channel over and confirmed the fit with the doublers! Thanks for sharing your build with us! Another question I have is what episode is part 2 of the elevator build… It’s not in #7… that starts the wing (which is my next mission). I watched the next 3 VERY carefully…. Very enlightening and removes some of the unknown fears that accompany that task!
I hope to meet you someday… maybe at this years homecoming???
Best regards!
You make it seem so much fun. Great way to spend spare time... Bit like making an RC helicopter kit only hours more work.....but both fly
Al Watt I flew RC helis for many years. I think they were more expensive than what I’m building now! Lol
You are not wrong. They have become very powerful and clever thus the price for the kit and flybarless units etc make them very expensive now, by the time you put in the avionics. A friend at my club took his newly built RC helicopter to fly yesterday, even I could not believe the total cost. I love your series it's so interesting to watch a quality kit go together. Thank you for making the effort to film it for us.
could you tell me where you got the plastic snap grommets and maybe a part number. great videos
Do Youself a Favor use a second Dish to hold the rivet shafts and keep them off the bench .
Great video, and it looks like it is going together easily and nicely thus far. Is there a minimum skin thickness that is required for attaching those threaded hole plates you used for your elevator trim cover? You don't need to reinforce the metal under the hole plates with some spare aluminum strip stock? Is there sufficient space to easily mount the trim motor after the skins are applied? Thanks again for doing the video series on your build. This really makes this not look so daunting as I thought it might be. Much appreciated by us future builders I'm sure.
I wish i was building along with you.
I like the assembly book you are using. I bought a 650 tail kit and plans which came with nothing but an out dated CD that barely runs. Pretty disappointed in Zenith in that regard.
Those "grommet" you used are for mounting LEDs in a panel. You insert it into the panel and then the LED snaps into it from the back.
Dale Gloer Really? I didn’t know that. Is that what they are specifically designed for? I’ve always used them as grommets!
Dale, NO they are not! these are snap bushings for pipes and electrical wires. What you refer to are LED bezels and are much, much smaller and different than these!
Thank you for doing these videos. Super informative. I may be building my first kit plane soon.
Question, why not prime the underside of the outer metal skin instead of the outside of the inner skin?
Seems like no overspray would show.
Generally I will prime both surfaces that touch. So I'll prime the outside of the bottom skin, and the inside of the top skin.
Love the foot stomping tunes! No priming on the inside surface of all the skins?
I was also wondering why Mark didn't do this?
Great intro, wasn't expecting that.
One thing, if you don't mind sharing, would be what's your estimated completion? I understand this project is gigantinormouslyhuge, but if you had to wager when are you hoping to get it through the FAA checks?
Also, we're getting a very clean edit of things going together because you're amazing, but how long does a typical part / sub part usually run in length?
Yet another great idea about the grommet for the guide wire. Question: Is it worth saving the pins from the rivets over the whole build? Could they be sold to a metal salvage place, or is there some other solution? I also noticed you follow another of your tips by using the empty Mushroom containers to hold your clecos.
When I built my Cruzer I saved every rivet stem. The container probably weighed 25 pounds! I threw them all in the re-cycle bin.
Where in the heck can you even buy this kit? Never actually seen them anyplace that sells them instock!
Those are electronica cable throughs. They crack under stress over time. I don't know the plastic type but probably ABS and probably with a lot of filler. If they break, and they will do that before the rubber, what is the worst that can happen? Find a buddy with a lath, make the holes bigger and put in some Delrin sleeves. The filler in plastic will resist abrasion better than metal so if its structurally correct then the abrasion, if avoiding heat induced friction, should keep them from failing for a long time. But I have the same problems but more of them.
Mark, would you offer in future videos how long it took you to complete the activity that is the focus of the episode? We like the videos and find them very helpful, even if we build a Cruzer which is our expectation
No can do! I don't log or keep track of time. When I'm building I may work for an hour or two, take a break and go to the computer to enter the footage into the computer, then eat lunch, go to the gym, then work again in the hangar later that day. There's no way for me to keep track of the time I'm working on the project.
What primer do you use?
I just watched this video and noticed you had riveted the hinge plate in place. I hope you drilled the hole for the cotter pin in the pin before you riveted it in place. It is a 5/64 hole and very hard to drill with it installed. I measured for the proper placement before assembly and drilled it out first using a 1/16 bit and then enlarging to a 5/64 which fits the cotter pin well. I got this tip from Ted Van Meter of Iron Horse Aviation as he had not drilled before assembly and commented how hard it was to do after.
Oh NOW you tell me! LOL. I always try to think ahead for things like this but never thought about drilling that hole. It still doesn't look that difficult to drill with a 6" drill bit and I have bunch of those. I guess I'll figure that out when it comes time to attach the elevator!
Nice video. I really like your content.
What’s your opinion on those waves in the ski after riveting?
I am about to order a Tucano replica kit but in all pictures or videos you can clearly see those waves in the skin.
With all your experience I would really appreciate your opinion about that.
Thanks heaps
Don’t build an aluminum airplane if you don’t like the waves in the skins! They are all like that to some degree.
Curious how your prior F16 Mechanic skills play in, what do you believe you do with your builds that has been instilled from the F16 life/ work
I worked on Minuteman III nuclear missiles (actually rockets) for 4 years, and F-16's and A-10's for 16 years. My job on the aircraft was maintaining the ejection systems. So, the life of the pilot depended on me doing my job correctly and perfectly. That's how I like to build my airplanes now. Even though no one is supervising me, I still try to make every part as perfect as I can. If I screw up a part, I man up and buy a new part. I don't try to make it work knowing that it's not perfect. The benefit of 20 years of Air Force maintenance experience is the Experience! There's no substitute for experience. Even though my job was Egress, I spent a lot of time in the sheet metal shop having the guys teach me how to rivet and work with aluminum. I'd roam over to the hydraulics shop and see what I could learn there too. I'd even go hang out with the crew chiefs and see what kind of paperwork they had to do. All this observation and training just gave me a good understanding of aircraft structures and systems. I'd also happen to roam over to the bench stock room where nuts, bolts, clamps, and all kinds of cool hardware would accidentally fall into my pockets. I never would notice until I got home. Ya, that was my favorite part...
Good pacing in the contruction ! What is your daytime job? Are you retired ? Thanks for sharing !
Airline pilot. Not retired, but I took vacation all this month, and a paid leave for next month. So I have two months off. Things will slow down when I return to work in November. Unless I just quit...maybe I'll quit.
Kitplane Enthusiast I have the same job, but a veryy diferent country....I hope I can build so many planes but its expensive to import here in Argentina. Good videos , luck with the channel !!
Are you concerned with corrosion on the interior skins that didn't receive primer? Or is that not usually a problem? Thanks.
No. Next video will talk more about this.
Did you rivet the servo of the elevator or screw it with lock nut?
My servo is riveted in place. I riveted it in the elevator after it was painted so if I ever have to replace the servo I can drill out 4 unpainted rivets without messing up the paint on the elevator.
I put my right skin on first and wasn’t happy with the “bulge” in the skin. So I built a wood break (actually had it from my RV build) and crushed the bend. The left is perfectly flat, so I corrected the right with a small hand break. Yours seem really flat (maybe just the light?), did you throw a straight edge on them? Btw, your videos are awesome.
Dang it I just deleted my reply by accident! I did put weights on the elevator when I riveted it, but that was just to hold it flat to the workbench. I don't think it had any affect on preventing the skin from bulging. The skins seemed to fit really nicely.
Incorrectly installed part... I'd blame that one on Zenith (that's how politicians do it... Not my fault. ;-) ). Holes should be positioned so it can't be installed incorrectly. CNC program needs an update.
Also, do any bolts get safety wire? Or are the nut plates self locking?
Do you have an FAQ? I hate to ask question that have already been answered.
Really enjoying your videos.
Hey thanks for the comment. Actually a lot of parts have holes drilled from the CNC machines so that they can not be installed incorrectly. I'll have to mention to Zenith that maybe they can change a couple of holes so it can not be installed backwards. Some bolts will eventually get lock wired but the nut plates are locking.
What's up with your pneumatic puller. I noticed in your last couple of videos that you need to pull twice on each rivet. Does it need a top off of oil?
You will see the death of that pneumatic puller in Ep7 (or maybe it’s Ep8). I’ve ordered a new one from Zenith. It’s never pulled a river in one squeeze. I think it just doesn’t have enough travel. Hopefully the new one will.
Pull the front nose cover off and check that the locknuts haven’t loosened up.
I think you need to fit the horns before paint or you will have unpainted rivets, which will not look so cool. A small touch up gun could be used when you come to paint.
I see no problem with unpainted rivets. There's quite a few on my Cruzer.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Not a problem but with your OCD being like mine (bolts turned to the flats line up and screws with the slots lined up), I just thought it would make them look like an after thought. I would be out there with a small brush putting paint on them :-)
I noticed you didn't "flare" or bend the edges with the roller-pliers(?) where the skins overlap. I *think* you did this on the Cruzer. Are you no longer a fan of the idea, or only worth doing so on the wings?
That's correct-The only place I think it needed it was on the forward wing skins on the Cruzer. These skins fit perfectly flat against each other.
Hmmm, it was your Cruzer that inspired me to form all my edges on my Super Duty. I agree that not necessarily required but it sure does make those edges crisp. You think any possible harm? Or just a waste of time?
@@shanrock3555 No harm...just as you say "a waste of time" LOL! A lot of guys bend the edge of all the skins on the Vans RV's too. It won't hurt anything.
How many cleko's does it take to build an airplane?
You'll need a couple hundred probably when it comes time for the wings and fuselage.
that removable servo technique is a bit confusing to me noob. Would be nice if you explain the design and then later actual installment carefully in detail.
There's flat piece of aluminum that covers that hole. It gets riveted to the skin. I chose to install nutplates so that I can remove the cover is necessary.
Sorry maybe somebody already has asked this question but what primer did you use?