Improving the Tenere 700 Rear Brake
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- I had achieved a great improvement with my MT09's rear brake by replacing the rotor with a cheap Chinese rotor and using EBC HH pads. This was very inexpensive and didn't require braided lines or to replace the master cylinder. The same was achieved on the front, and you could not ask for better brakes.
So it was time to test if I could do the same with the Tenere. Rather than buy a new rotor straight away, I decided to borrow the rotor from my MT09. It also eliminated the chance that a new rotor might be different.
When I got the Tenere at Christmas 2019 I immediately changed the rear pads to EBC HH but there was not much if any improvement with just a pad change, and they have barely worn in 8000 kms. So this test is with the HH pads already fitted.
I have now ordered another rotor from EBay for $76. Here is a link.
tinyurl.com/y4...
Amazing sir, I aspire to have a garage like yours one day. Very fine taste for mods too!
Finally someone who can spell Brake correctly. Lol
I noticed he didn't take a break while working on his brake 😜
Spraying the chain with a light oil seems pointless if you’re about to apply chain wax. It would prevent the wax from sticking.
None of it flings off though, so cant be too bad.
Chain wax helps keep the side steel of the chain from rusting, and oil helps put a film lubricant on the rollers. Actually what hes doing is very good and its what I do aswell
Hi do you know the torque setting for the rear disc bolts of the T700? I can't find them anywhere.
Cant find anything specific to the Tenere, but M6 bolts are 18nm and M8 are 30nm based on other Yamahas. I think the fronts are M6 and rear are M8, but check the thread of the bolts to be sure.
Great vid - very helpfull. Did you buy a new rims (coz stock colour on this bike are blue)? Do you recommend any specific on the market ?
Yeah VIZu, I had narrower Excel rims fitted, with stainless spokes, and Outex and Tubliss kits fitted so I can run a 140 rear tire and have them tubeless.
Great vid, I also have made similar changes, my rear rotor to a Galfer, wave rotor, more money but not manufactured in China just a personal caveat for me, big improvement. I also went to braided stainless lines and removed one of the front rotors and calipers (5lb) and great progressive feel which I prefer off road. Did you also change the rear rim and spokes, spokes look to be stainless instead of galvanized and the Excel rim of course is a big upgrade is it a 2.5"? I have changed my rear rim to an Excel 2.5" so I can run a rim lock and be able to run much lower pressures when off-road.....big improvement.
Thank you Dirk, good to know that other rotors like Galfer and MotoMaster will achieve the same result. And I agree with your sentiment on China but have a strong suspicion all rotors are made in China so just get them for the lowest price possible. And yes my rear wheel is 2.5x18 and with stainless spokes. I run the Tubliss system and that works on this rim for the same reasons of running low pressures.
I too changed to a single 320mm front disk. It works well and has a more solid feel on the lever that provides good control offroad. But it could do with more power for road use. I think a better master cylinder would do wonders for this.
@@MotoGuzziMoto I thought I saw a tubliss system on there, I too will eventually put one on, I have run them for years on my enduro and dual sport bikes without any issues even many miles on asphalt
@@MotoGuzziMoto BTW Galfer rotors are made in Spain 🙃
@@dirklawyer9939 Ok, good to know. Thanks.
Did you change the front disc as well?
Not yet RC. Waiting on a bracket to fit a larger 320mm single rotor.
What skid plate is used on your bike?
Hi, its the Adventure Spec bash plate.
Do I spy an ohlins rear shock in there, how were the results? Did you go for the cartridges too?
The ohlins rear shock with revised spring rate has made a big difference. it feels more plush but also sitting higher in the stroke. If riding corrugations I turn up the preload, rebound and compression damping a couple of clicks and lower the tire pressure. Makes a huge difference.
On the front I only upgraded the springs to Hyperpro progressive to suit my weight. So far the front feels pretty good, but not as plush as the rear.
MotoGuzziMoto nice, would you consider Öhlins cartridges? I think I saw a kit. My suspension shop does revalves and springs but remote preload is so useful for this kind of bike
@@chasp_0784 They are quite expensive, and still haven't found the need to go that far. I was hoping to get some time to tinker with the fork oil type and level this Christmas holidays to see if I can tune it a bit plusher, but too busy riding to make the time!
@@MotoGuzziMoto good problem to have, too much riding 👍
What kind of tool is that small newton meter torque wrench
I dont see the torque wrench in this video. Where did you see it, in this video or another one? I do have a small torque wrench 0-25 nm - sydneytools.com.au/product/warren-brown-320510-14-drive-125nm-deflecting-beam-torque-wrench
That's great, thanks for sharing. What did you search for for the front and rear discs when searching ebay/aliexpress? I'm in the UK so may be different. Thanks
John you can try "MT07 rear rotor" or any combination including MT09, XSR900, disk, brake etc. The rotor is 245mm in diameter and 5 mounting bolts.
You may still use the Australian EBay link. It is sent international anyway from China. Just check with the supplier.
How does the rotor improve the brake? Like how is the aftermarket rotor different from the OEM one?
Pat, I dont know the metallurgy of the rotors so can only guess that these cheap rotors have a different composition of steel that produces more friction with the HH pads I am using. Perhaps more carbon or less alloys in the mix. And by cheap rotors I dont necessarily mean lower quality, just less expensive. The Chinese rotors I have purchased look quality made.
the rear brake on my new t7 is monumentally shit i might do this
It is worth doing and not very expensive. You should also do a brake fluid change to take some of the sponginess out.
Can you run a 140 tire on the stock Tenere 700 rim??
Yes you can. Just be careful to select a tire with the beads naturally wide. More info here - www.tenere700.net/topic/1319-tenere-700-rear-tire-1507018-or-1408018-advantages-and-disadvantages/
@@MotoGuzziMoto Thanks for the info... keep up the good work ..
Nice will order myself a new mt09 disc. What year model is it?
Same rotor for all MT09/XSR900 models up to 2020. Mine is a 2017. There is a link in the description. Just dont get a Yamaha one. That is what we are trying to avoid. Cheers.
@@MotoGuzziMoto Cheers. Do you like it offroad also?
@@ManBikeSwag The brakes work great off-road. Front and rear is a nice balance, just hit the brakes evenly and you can haul your speed down without thinking about it. I never mastered the original rear brake because it was so out of synch with the front. I have had a few emergency stops now, one to avoid a deer, and the bike pulled up quick and straight. Note I have my ABS fuses pulled so all stops are without ABS.
@Man Bike Swag, if you do fit a new rotor, post your experience back here. I think there are a few thousand T7 riders looking for a solution but think this is snake oil.
so no moment key....
Hmm, a very educational video that could be use in mechanic school to teach techs how NOT to work on a bike.
Yamaha says NOT to use a bike jack to lift the bike from under the engine, like he is doing in the video. There are a couple of very good reason why. He needs to read up on that.
It seems that the man has never heard of a torque wrench. Either that or he must be one of those mechanics who can tell how much torque he is applying bu how many veins pop out of his arm.
I knew one man use to say that. Seriously, no joking. The worst part was that he was an aviation mechanic. How the hell did he have a aviation mechanic license was beyond me. Definitely illegal and could get him in a lot of trouble, even prison.
The FAA is dead serious about techs following the maintenance manual like a bible. If the manual says to use a torque wrench that is what we do. No BS and No questions asked.
In fact, the Mechanic’s FAR (Federal Aviation Regulations) states that when you perform repairs, routine maintenance, or alterations to an A/C (Aircraft), the structural integrity and function of the A/C has to be as good as when the A/C was new or better.
That approach I carry over into everything that I do. Do it right and by the book or not do it at all. Anybody can do a Mickey Mouse job, but it takes someone who takes pride in their work to do it by the book. The way it’s meant to be. The right way.
Engineers spend a great deal of time designing the A/C, car, motorcycle, etc., to make it safe. If engineers spend the time to make sure that torque specs are in the manual, there are extremely good reasons for it. It prevents failure, damage to parts, or premature wearing of components. Things that any half way good mechanic would want to avoid.
Studies have shown that people are lousy calculating how much torque they are applying to a fastener. Most of the time they over torque fasteners eyeballing it or going by feel does not work.
I didn’t even see him adjust the chain. Even if he had, the repair manual calls for the rear wheel to be on the ground and on the side stand. That chain looked afoul tight.
Oh well, it’s better his bike than mine. Poor thing!
not everybody needs a description for getting a toilet run...