Well, watched a bunch of boat finishing videos and decided on trying your tips (with some changes because of my lower skill level and availability of products) on a boat that always has a cover for most of the top but had 19 years of oxidation on a metal flake bassboat. Absolutely Amazing Result! Thank you. Summarized below is what I ended up doing: Boat Polshing: Wash boat w/ Dawn & water Use hand Mitt to rub dirt off Removed minor skuff marks, grease stains and marks w/ Rubbing Compound and Dobie Pad. If marks can not be removed, used 1000 grit on foam sanding block and keep sandpaper lubricated w/ spray bottle (water w/Dawn mixture). If you can get away with it, only use 2000 grit and spray bottle. Followed up with Rubbing Compound applied with Dobie Pad and buff clean. Just hand rubbed Rubbing Compound in “needed” areas and then hand buffed clean. Once all scratches, marks and such removed, applied small amounts of Turtle Wax Polishing Compound with Dobie Pad (sponge part only) onto hull. Using Fleece Polishing Bonnet, buffed Compound using a power Buffer. I bought a commercial level Harbor Freight Buffer/Polisher but found it too powerful even at slow speeds. Then immediately put Microfiber Bonnet on and buffed Compound off. Once side of hull complete, put Terry Cloth on bonnet and buff till all Compound is removed. When ready to apply final step which is Wax, first: Spray Windex in small areas and wipe the surface clean. This provided a clean surface for the Wax. Using a “damp” Dobie Pad (sponge part only) again, apply a liberal amount of wax to a 3’ section. Using the Waxmaster and a Fleece Bonnet, work wax thoroughly. Then use Terry Cloth Bonnet and buff wax off. Done! Pro Tip: Using Painter’s Tape that is easily removed, I suggest marking the hull into “cleaning sections” which will make it easier to target one section at a time. Second Pro Tip: Buy four Fleece Bonnets, Microfiber Bonnets and Terry Cloth Bonnets so you are not waiting for clean Bonnets. Harbor Freight had good pricing. Be well.
Wow, your patience, knowledge and attention to detail is indeed an art form. Great video mate. Some people here don't possibly understand the difference in the grades of wet and dry you have recommended compared to 'normal' sandpaper if there is such a beast. Regardless the results speak for themselves. As far as the whole 3M thing goes... I get it. They make an amazing line of products that are extremely reliable and well known amongst the die hard boating fraternity. Many have turned to lesser products and regretted there decision many hours of labour later. I am sure there are other similar great products out there but I have not yet found one brand that so consistently produces such a huge range of highly dependable products. There is a very good reason their products are not stocked at some of the cheaper outlets.... Say no more! Again, Awesome video and thanks for sharing what is obviously your passion and expert knowledge. Greg Australia
For anyone watching this video.....all the boat professionals recommend using a polymer wax instead of a traditional wax. Anyway, very informative and extremely helpful video....good job man
been looking for a video like this for over a year!! Thank you!! I was doing everything you did, except moving up, from a 1200 grit to a 2000 grit, then 3000. doing just a 1200, was not pretty!! Thanks again, oh, and you delivered an excellent presentation, too!
Justin, as usual, such an awesome video. I had done this process a couple boats ago and I’m getting ready to do a small metal flake strip on the top cap of my Triton. Thanks for the part #’s. I had forgotten which products to use and where to go here in OKC. You rock !!!
I believe, (the correct) compound ONLY, not only would be quicker by far, less expensive (papers and costs associated with the steps involved) and achieve similar if not better results. I appreciate your video and technique, for someone looking for a "Very tedious" job. I could have that side of the topside finished in 12 minutes with 1 compound, 1 polish and a buffer. Try it. I've been making vids to show people, you might find one enlightening. Cheers!
I wet sanded my boat and work out amazing even got all the old anti fouling off and now before I wax and polish I’m gonna install my new water line and name of the boat can’t wait for the weather to cooperate up here in Newfoundland cheers!!!
Good Job. 3M products are by far the Unique product for this Purpose. I also use a Paste wax versus Liquid or cremes. Paste wax is "Old School". I use Collinite for the Final Wax step. Again, Good job.
After sanding do you wash your boat before compounding? Same question after compounding before polishing? Would you wipe down the boat with alcohol. My boat was heavily oxidized from setting out. In the elements (in Ga.) for 5 hrs unattended. I started with 600 paper and went to 1000,2000, 3000, I haven’t started on compounding yet. I do have a Makita polisher with heavy cut pad from Presta and Mequires rubbing compound and polish and a lighter pad for polishing. Going to use paste wax to finish. The boat is a 1986 Bomber Scout 15’, Fiberglass. Greg
Nice process. The only thing I would do differently is go with a thicker paste wax instead of cleaner wax to make sure you get new finish sealed properly. When gel-coat is neglected (oxidized) it is due to the lack of proper maintenance of keeping wax in the porus of the gel-coat. After correcting the finish and applying wax you will notice sometime where the gel-coat will "drink" the wax. Its really similar to when you don't put lotion on your skin and it gets all chapped or ashy. Applying a thicker wax/protective coating or even several coats of wax is always a good strategy when restoring oxidized gel-coat.
Great video ! I just bought a 1983 baja sunsport and has blue metal flake that has heavy oxidization. I tried some wet 800 gritt and mequiers marine oxidization remover using my makita power polisher and it didnt do much . I'll continue wet sanding as i dont think i spent enough time on it
Maybe a dumb question, but what kind of pressure are you applying? I feel like there is a sweet spot of pressure and am nervous to do this project myself with no experience
I'm assuming you guys don't do the whole boat by hand. Really liked you video. I have a 1989 Skitter bass boat. A lot of oxidation. Do you sand with any power tools. Seems like it would take a very long time if done by hand. Thanks. Keep it up.
When sanding with the 1200, 2000 and 3000, should this be done by hand or is it ok to use an electric 7in sander? Also, I might have missed it, but did you use and do you usually use 3000 grit? I didn't see it in the video. Great video!
When I hear sand paper on paint, it's as bad to me as finger nails on a chalk board! Cut it by hand or even with an 'orbital' without the help of 'sandpaper' is what should be done. Much safer that way! McGuire's fiberglass restore has always been a God send to me! My metal flake area and other areas on top of the hull felt like 3000 grit sand paper before I started. I ran the 'Oxidation Remover' BY HAND over my metal flake a few passes and it's glassy smooth and shiny even without the polish and wax compounds applied. Elbow grease of forget it. This is why I cannot trust a business to clean my boats.
This isn't "cleaning a boat" This is oxidation removal, just buffing/polishing will not achieve a gloss finish. This boat needed to be wet sanded to remove the oxidation. Your boat felt like 3,000 grit sandpaper which is extremely smooth, this one felt like 80 grit sandpaper thus the reason to wetsand up to 2,000-3,000 grit, then polish.
I agree. My boat showed a shine through the 'haze'. I just wish people would care for their boats more. My reference was on the skeeter and the flake is on the side,and less prone to oxidation as much as the topside is. Thanks for your response.
How does the 3m product compare to the Maguires boat restoration kit?? Also is there a big difference between the waffle pad and the black smooth polishing pad? Great job looks awesome.
Great informational video. I have a Ranger bas boat and the top cap has the colorful gel coat. The bottom is white. What is your suggestion for that part of my boat?
what is the final coat applied to a fiberglass boat ? Is it clear coat for fiberglass ? I can feel fiberglass sticking in my hands when I touch it , I want to fix this , not gel coat is it ? It's a carolina skiff factory finish white color
I have a boat that was originally brown metal flake but the oxidation had turned The brown color to a almost pink color. Do you think wet sanding like this will bring out the brown color again?
Use Ajax or a scouring paste/powder, a stiff bristle brush or sponge, scrubby these areas. (do before buffing the smooth gelcoat) Clean with dish soap & water, dry and apply a "sticky" wax like Woody's Wax for non-skid.
Seriously? He got it right all the way through. He is not getting paid to do it.. he's trying to help blokes like you and me! At the end of the day, the point is that FINE or SUPERFINE wet and dry can be a great solution to oxidation providing you follow through with a recognised finishing process. He has given you all the product information you need so get to it or pay someone else like him to do it for you! Just saying!
You can achieve the sanding results with a good quality cutting compound and a good buffer. Hand sanding that entire boat is a little ridiculous. Which makes a very good reason to own a real buffer that won't bog down like that el-cheapo harbor freight china junk will - put some pressure on that thing and watch it bog - which means inconsistent RPM. Personally, Makita 9237, cutting compound, polish and wax - Will be done with a nice shine and lot quicker than hand sanding.
Not trying to be a hater but a wool pad and rubbing compound on that same spot would most likely take 1 minute, total, to achieve the same if not better results. Particularly on the contoured, round areas that you can't wet sand out evenly with a block. All, with no swirls from the wool pad. I'd say sanding that particular boat was excessive. Overkill. There's a time and place for sanding but in 15 years, I've only encountered 3 boats that sanding would have saved me time. As an example: czcams.com/video/aDwGxyz_RCk/video.html I still used a buffer but could have cut some effort/time had I sanded first. If your paste wax is carnuba based, you just did all that work for only 2 months (at best in high heat) worth of gloss. Polymer-based polishes last 8 times as long (3m liquid wax, flagship, pro-shine...). Nanotech products like restructure marine polish lasts 3 years FYI. You should always wash the boat with a detergent and water if not an oil and grease stripper before applying a polish/wax or the product isn't getting the best adhesive mechanism to last, that it could have on a perfectly clean surface. Just my 2 cents. Cheers! www.deckhanddetailing.com
Do you think this would be worth while for someone that only has a DA polisher? I don't own a rotary style one but I have a griots 6" polisher. Could I hand sand it to get rid of the oxidation and then use the DA polisher to polish it up or would I be wasting my time?
@@e303gt rotary if there's oxidation or fading. A D/A will work for sanding (1000,2000 & 3000 grit before compounding. A D/A for compounding; you'll be there all week.
@@utimjohnson6127 double-sided if you can (better balanced usually) 3m? Local paintshop? Coarse is best to start with but you can just use most any wool or wool blend.
Without seeing any pictures, this sounds like the clear gelcoat is delaminating from the base. The only way to fix it, is to respray the flake and everything. Wet sanding won't do anything.
Wish you would have shown it clearly without the wax first. Wax is like makeup, wetsand and polish makes it look shiny without wax, although wax is good for protection. I noticed it also shined up the rub rail too, looks nice
W/ 1200 or 2000 grit you probably don't need to worry too much on non-metal flake finishes. He said "IF the metal flake is looking white, you've gone too deep."
@@garystephens9909 Depends on how bad your boat is. I did a friends boat with a buffer and mother’s Mag wheel polish. Run the foam pad slow! Sweet Project Cars has vids on everything Mother’s Mag polish.
Usually between $30-60 per hr. Someone experienced in your area would likely give you a quote after they have seen the condition your boat and can estimate how much time and material it would take.
Yeah if you’ve got $50k lying around. My boat was free from my grandpa. Grew up on that boat so tons of nostalgia. There’s a reason they call it a labor of love!
Nice process. The only thing I would do differently is go with a thicker paste wax instead of cleaner wax to make sure you get new finish sealed properly. When gel-coat is neglected (oxidized) it is due to the lack of proper maintenance of keeping wax in the porus of the gel-coat. After correcting the finish and applying wax you will notice sometime where the gel-coat will "drink" the wax. Its really similar to when you don't put lotion on your skin and it gets all chapped or ashy. Applying a thicker wax/protective coating or even several coats of wax is always a good strategy when restoring oxidized gel-coat.
I followed these steps with exactly those products and my 94 Nitro looks brand new. Took me 3 full days to complete the restoration.
Well, watched a bunch of boat finishing videos and decided on trying your tips (with some changes because of my lower skill level and availability of products) on a boat that always has a cover for most of the top but had 19 years of oxidation on a metal flake bassboat. Absolutely Amazing Result!
Thank you.
Summarized below is what I ended up doing:
Boat Polshing:
Wash boat w/ Dawn & water
Use hand Mitt to rub dirt off
Removed minor skuff marks, grease stains and marks w/ Rubbing Compound and Dobie Pad.
If marks can not be removed, used 1000 grit on foam sanding block and keep sandpaper lubricated w/ spray bottle (water w/Dawn mixture).
If you can get away with it, only use 2000 grit and spray bottle.
Followed up with Rubbing Compound applied with Dobie Pad and buff clean. Just hand rubbed Rubbing Compound in “needed” areas and then hand buffed clean.
Once all scratches, marks and such removed, applied small amounts of Turtle Wax Polishing Compound with Dobie Pad (sponge part only) onto hull.
Using Fleece Polishing Bonnet, buffed Compound using a power Buffer. I bought a commercial level Harbor Freight Buffer/Polisher but found it too powerful even at slow speeds.
Then immediately put Microfiber Bonnet on and buffed Compound off.
Once side of hull complete, put Terry Cloth on bonnet and buff till all Compound is removed.
When ready to apply final step which is Wax, first:
Spray Windex in small areas and wipe the surface clean. This provided a clean surface for the Wax.
Using a “damp” Dobie Pad (sponge part only) again, apply a liberal amount of wax to a 3’ section. Using the Waxmaster and a Fleece Bonnet, work wax thoroughly. Then use Terry Cloth Bonnet and buff wax off.
Done!
Pro Tip: Using Painter’s Tape that is easily removed, I suggest marking the hull into “cleaning sections” which will make it easier to target one section at a time.
Second Pro Tip: Buy four Fleece Bonnets, Microfiber Bonnets and Terry Cloth Bonnets so you are not waiting for clean Bonnets. Harbor Freight had good pricing.
Be well.
Best how to video i have ever watched. I could understand every word and see everything so well. no stuttering and uhs Thank you
Man that’s awesome. I have an 85 Stratos I’m going to follow these steps exactly! I love the look of older boats restored! Like an old hot rod
Top notch tutorial. A thorough demonstration of the process with honest experience and no filler. 5 Stars, 4 years later. Thanks!
Wow, your patience, knowledge and attention to detail is indeed an art form. Great video mate. Some people here don't possibly understand the difference in the grades of wet and dry you have recommended compared to 'normal' sandpaper if there is such a beast. Regardless the results speak for themselves. As far as the whole 3M thing goes... I get it. They make an amazing line of products that are extremely reliable and well known amongst the die hard boating fraternity. Many have turned to lesser products and regretted there decision many hours of labour later. I am sure there are other similar great products out there but I have not yet found one brand that so consistently produces such a huge range of highly dependable products. There is a very good reason their products are not stocked at some of the cheaper outlets.... Say no more!
Again, Awesome video and thanks for sharing what is obviously your passion and expert knowledge.
Greg
Australia
Great example of cleaning up a tired oxidized finish! Fantastic!
For anyone watching this video.....all the boat professionals recommend using a polymer wax instead of a traditional wax. Anyway, very informative and extremely helpful video....good job man
Phillip Broussard yup 100%
been looking for a video like this for over a year!! Thank you!! I was doing everything you did, except moving up, from a 1200 grit to a 2000 grit, then 3000. doing just a 1200, was not pretty!! Thanks again, oh, and you delivered an excellent presentation, too!
1200, 2000 mcG cut compound....killer finish
Justin, as usual, such an awesome video. I had done this process a couple boats ago and I’m getting ready to do a small metal flake strip on the top cap of my Triton. Thanks for the part #’s. I had forgotten which products to use and where to go here in OKC. You rock !!!
Thank you!! I’m in the process of restoring a mid 80’s Ranger 330v. I have no clue what I’m doing. Just learning as I go.
I believe, (the correct) compound ONLY, not only would be quicker by far, less expensive (papers and costs associated with the steps involved) and achieve similar if not better results.
I appreciate your video and technique, for someone looking for a "Very tedious" job.
I could have that side of the topside finished in 12 minutes with 1 compound, 1 polish and a buffer.
Try it. I've been making vids to show people, you might find one enlightening. Cheers!
Thanks for the tips. Looks like a lot of work, but the results speak for themselves
I wet sanded my boat and work out amazing even got all the old anti fouling off and now before I wax and polish I’m gonna install my new water line and name of the boat can’t wait for the weather to cooperate up here in Newfoundland cheers!!!
Fantastic video. Expertly done in every way!!!
Great how to video. And you are a top notch instructor. Will be using this process when I start my boat.
Thanks for sharing
Great video . Thanks for sharing
Good Job. 3M products are by far the Unique product for this Purpose. I also use a Paste wax versus Liquid or cremes. Paste wax is "Old School". I use Collinite for the Final Wax step. Again, Good job.
Lot of work paid off looks great
Nice job man! Thanks for the pace and including sourcing information.
Great instruction! I followed it to a tee and my boat is looking great now.
Super great video!!! I guess there is no substitute for good products...
Labour of love. Great vid! 👍🏾
Not simple, but truly amazing.
So helpful! Easy to follow. Great product source information too.
wow this is great thanks for sharing this is really helpful
After sanding do you wash your boat before compounding? Same question after compounding before polishing? Would you wipe down the boat with alcohol. My boat was heavily oxidized from setting out. In the elements (in Ga.) for 5 hrs unattended. I started with 600 paper and went to 1000,2000, 3000, I haven’t started on compounding yet. I do have a Makita polisher with heavy cut pad from Presta and Mequires rubbing compound and polish and a lighter pad for polishing. Going to use paste wax to finish. The boat is a 1986 Bomber Scout 15’, Fiberglass. Greg
Nice video buddy well done
Try some 3 m 06045 gel coat compound and a dewalt buffer is a decent buffer at a decent price
Nice process. The only thing I would do differently is go with a thicker paste wax instead of cleaner wax to make sure you get new finish sealed properly. When gel-coat is neglected (oxidized) it is due to the lack of proper maintenance of keeping wax in the porus of the gel-coat. After correcting the finish and applying wax you will notice sometime where the gel-coat will "drink" the wax. Its really similar to when you don't put lotion on your skin and it gets all chapped or ashy. Applying a thicker wax/protective coating or even several coats of wax is always a good strategy when restoring oxidized gel-coat.
Great video! Do you just polish the top cap or do you do the lower section of the boat as well?
You get a better shine if you sand in a straight line whenever possible. Circular sanding disperses the light lowering shine.
This is true
Great video ! I just bought a 1983 baja sunsport and has blue metal flake that has heavy oxidization. I tried some wet 800 gritt and mequiers marine oxidization remover using my makita power polisher and it didnt do much . I'll continue wet sanding as i dont think i spent enough time on it
Very good video I have two trailer fenders on my ranger that are dull from the sun
Maybe a dumb question, but what kind of pressure are you applying? I feel like there is a sweet spot of pressure and am nervous to do this project myself with no experience
I'm assuming you guys don't do the whole boat by hand. Really liked you video. I have a 1989 Skitter bass boat. A lot of oxidation. Do you sand with any power tools. Seems like it would take a very long time if done by hand. Thanks. Keep it up.
Will you do the sides of the hull, or just the top cap?
Great video, my boat is a an 88 procraft and has oxidation and some flaking of the clear coat it looks like. Will this solve the problem also?
What grit would you start with if the oxidation was pretty bad ?
When you’ve sanded shouldn’t the gelcoat be shiny? The reason I ask is mine is dull colored.
good stuff.👍👍👍👍👍
When sanding with the 1200, 2000 and 3000, should this be done by hand or is it ok to use an electric 7in sander? Also, I might have missed it, but did you use and do you usually use 3000 grit? I didn't see it in the video. Great video!
You don't need a sander, you just need to wetsand it smooth, you don't wanna sand through too much with a electric sander
Thanks for the lesson. Do you need a dual action sander or can I use a cheap palm sander?
When I hear sand paper on paint, it's as bad to me as finger nails on a chalk board! Cut it by hand or even with an 'orbital' without the help of 'sandpaper' is what should be done. Much safer that way! McGuire's fiberglass restore has always been a God send to me! My metal flake area and other areas on top of the hull felt like 3000 grit sand paper before I started. I ran the 'Oxidation Remover' BY HAND over my metal flake a few passes and it's glassy smooth and shiny even without the polish and wax compounds applied. Elbow grease of forget it. This is why I cannot trust a business to clean my boats.
This isn't "cleaning a boat" This is oxidation removal, just buffing/polishing will not achieve a gloss finish. This boat needed to be wet sanded to remove the oxidation. Your boat felt like 3,000 grit sandpaper which is extremely smooth, this one felt like 80 grit sandpaper thus the reason to wetsand up to 2,000-3,000 grit, then polish.
I agree. My boat showed a shine through the 'haze'. I just wish people would care for their boats more. My reference was on the skeeter and the flake is on the side,and less prone to oxidation as much as the topside is. Thanks for your response.
I have been wet sanding now for two years the costomers are all ways happy with there boat when I read stuff like this It makes me question my work .
How does the 3m product compare to the Maguires boat restoration kit?? Also is there a big difference between the waffle pad and the black smooth polishing pad? Great job looks awesome.
Great informational video. I have a Ranger bas boat and the top cap has the colorful gel coat. The bottom is white. What is your suggestion for that part of my boat?
Awesome job. Thanks for showing the steps!
Hey RMP, did you forget the 3000 grit process? Just wondering because I didn't see it.
How do you sand the part that is on the bunks of the trailer ? How is the boat moved ?
Great tutorial, going to try this soon!
what is the final coat applied to a fiberglass boat ? Is it clear coat for fiberglass ? I can feel fiberglass sticking in my hands when I touch it , I want to fix this , not gel coat is it ? It's a carolina skiff factory finish white color
Great video! Are there any substitutes for the 3m high gloss gel coat compound?
I have a boat that was originally brown metal flake but the oxidation had turned The brown color to a almost pink color. Do you think wet sanding like this will bring out the brown color again?
Would it be okay to use an orbital sander when wet sanding rather than sanding by hand? Thanks in advance
Yes...
would you change anything in this process when doing a White fiberglass cruiser? I have a Rinker 300 and want to do this over the off season.
Very helpful channel! Love it
How in the lords name do you keep the splatter under control? Especially compounding. That stuff flings everywhere.
Great vid. One question - how to remove oxidisation from the rough, non slip parts of the deck? Is there a way to do this? Best regards, Steve
Use Ajax or a scouring paste/powder, a stiff bristle brush or sponge, scrubby these areas. (do before buffing the smooth gelcoat)
Clean with dish soap & water, dry and apply a "sticky" wax like Woody's Wax for non-skid.
does the same process work for scratches on the bottom of the boat
12 minutes showing the process, 5 seconds showing the results.
Seriously? He got it right all the way through. He is not getting paid to do it.. he's trying to help blokes like you and me! At the end of the day, the point is that FINE or SUPERFINE wet and dry can be a great solution to oxidation providing you follow through with a recognised finishing process. He has given you all the product information you need so get to it or pay someone else like him to do it for you! Just saying!
How long do you need to look at it? Its clear (heh, get it?) that it looks awesome and the technique works.
Stop the video at the spot where you want to look. For sound effects, add "ooo's and ahhhh's" :)
Is there anything else you can recommend besides the 99.00 dollar
3M Marine High Gloss Gelcoat Compound, 06025. Something around 30 .00
My boat feels like sand paper is the the flake or what need help
You can achieve the sanding results with a good quality cutting compound and a good buffer. Hand sanding that entire boat is a little ridiculous. Which makes a very good reason to own a real buffer that won't bog down like that el-cheapo harbor freight china junk will - put some pressure on that thing and watch it bog - which means inconsistent RPM. Personally, Makita 9237, cutting compound, polish and wax - Will be done with a nice shine and lot quicker than hand sanding.
Would you wet sand a 27foot boat or compound it instead
When I move on to the black pad for buffing. What speed should buffer be on?
Needs to be on one of the lowest settings possible. Our buffer here will go down to 1200rpm
If your boat is supposed to be black but looks grey is it to far gone to do this to
Is it supposed to look like what is under my windshield and cleats on my boat
Gorgeous finish, nice work!
Thanks!
what are the products used …. Thank you
Not trying to be a hater but a wool pad and rubbing compound on that same spot would most likely take 1 minute, total, to achieve the same if not better results. Particularly on the contoured, round areas that you can't wet sand out evenly with a block. All, with no swirls from the wool pad.
I'd say sanding that particular boat was excessive. Overkill.
There's a time and place for sanding but in 15 years, I've only encountered 3 boats that sanding would have saved me time. As an example: czcams.com/video/aDwGxyz_RCk/video.html I still used a buffer but could have cut some effort/time had I sanded first.
If your paste wax is carnuba based, you just did all that work for only 2 months (at best in high heat) worth of gloss. Polymer-based polishes last 8 times as long (3m liquid wax, flagship, pro-shine...). Nanotech products like restructure marine polish lasts 3 years FYI.
You should always wash the boat with a detergent and water if not an oil and grease stripper before applying a polish/wax or the product isn't getting the best adhesive mechanism to last, that it could have on a perfectly clean surface. Just my 2 cents. Cheers!
www.deckhanddetailing.com
Do you think this would be worth while for someone that only has a DA polisher? I don't own a rotary style one but I have a griots 6" polisher. Could I hand sand it to get rid of the oxidation and then use the DA polisher to polish it up or would I be wasting my time?
Local boydidgood
What type of wool pad ?
@@e303gt rotary if there's oxidation or fading. A D/A will work for sanding (1000,2000 & 3000 grit before compounding. A D/A for compounding; you'll be there all week.
@@utimjohnson6127 double-sided if you can (better balanced usually) 3m? Local paintshop? Coarse is best to start with but you can just use most any wool or wool blend.
Looks good. How long before needing to do over again?
If you keep it maintained (washing/ waxing), then keep in a garage or under a cover, several years.
6 years later, he’s almost done with that boat.
Very well done! Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
I have a 99 skeeter . There’s a clear film flaking off of it. Can I still wet sand it or do I need to get the film off of it first then wet sand it
Without seeing any pictures, this sounds like the clear gelcoat is delaminating from the base. The only way to fix it, is to respray the flake and everything. Wet sanding won't do anything.
@@RussellMarineProductsLLC can you send me an email , so I can send you some pictures
Can I use an orbital sander or is it best to do it by hand
You can use an orbital sander, just check often so you don’t burn thru the gelcoat
Thank you sir I’m looking at buying a 2003 skeeter zx210c and I will need some cleaning up.
How do you do that over the graphics ?
Can you add a clear coat before the wax?
No, you never want to add clear coat on a boat, it will end up peeling off, it does not adhere to gelcote well on most boat applications.
What do you recommend for cleaning the black rubber bump rails
Get a new rub rail. Pretty cheap
Great work
Wow definitely going to try it on my thanks for the video
Does this work for fiberglass bass boat too?
Yes it will.
Wish you would have shown it clearly without the wax first. Wax is like makeup, wetsand and polish makes it look shiny without wax, although wax is good for protection. I noticed it also shined up the rub rail too, looks nice
Great video thanks a ton!!!
When wet sanding, how do you know if you have gone through/ too deep?
W/ 1200 or 2000 grit you probably don't need to worry too much on non-metal flake finishes. He said "IF the metal flake is looking white, you've gone too deep."
......3 weeks (and 17 hand/finger/forearm/brain cramps) lattttiiieeeerrr!😅😆👍🏾
How do I know when I’ve sanded the oxidation enough?
The water gets milky looking.
@@johnnyb1776 once milky then I can move on to 2000 grit?
@@garystephens9909 Depends on how bad your boat is. I did a friends boat with a buffer and mother’s Mag wheel polish. Run the foam pad slow! Sweet Project Cars has vids on everything Mother’s Mag polish.
Brite Boy polish is a better and faster way to go
And it's a ChampioN!!!!
Nice boat!
wow
What would something like this cost to have done
Usually between $30-60 per hr. Someone experienced in your area would likely give you a quote after they have seen the condition your boat and can estimate how much time and material it would take.
Super godt
Where can i find a certain metal flake?
They say call your boat manufacturer for color match
You didn't leave links to the products you used
Actually.
B
Talking about waste how much stage 2 did you use lol
Cheers mate
Shame on that one dislike
Well there is a lot of bad information in it. Especially on the tools used and proper technique. Doesn't even have his foam pad centered.
06025
I have found there is a much better and easy way.Just trade in the boat and get a new one.😂
Seems easier to buy a new boat 😂
Yeah if you’ve got $50k lying around. My boat was free from my grandpa. Grew up on that boat so tons of nostalgia. There’s a reason they call it a labor of love!
Nice process. The only thing I would do differently is go with a thicker paste wax instead of cleaner wax to make sure you get new finish sealed properly. When gel-coat is neglected (oxidized) it is due to the lack of proper maintenance of keeping wax in the porus of the gel-coat. After correcting the finish and applying wax you will notice sometime where the gel-coat will "drink" the wax. Its really similar to when you don't put lotion on your skin and it gets all chapped or ashy. Applying a thicker wax/protective coating or even several coats of wax is always a good strategy when restoring oxidized gel-coat.