How to replace a fibre cement roof slate. (And finding the original bodge job hidden underneath it!)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- In this video I am showing how I replace a broken fibre cement roof slate.
After a few comments regarding "not fixing the broken eave" or "damaged slates", unfortunately they are not broken but have been cut like this and these small pieces are fitted along the full length of the roof by the original so called professional roofer. Obviously I am aware the under eave course should have been full slates and this has not been done correctly, however I am just showing how I replace a broken slate in this video and not correcting the original bodge job.
Adhesive will only work for a limited time, that's why we need a mechanical fix like a copper strip. I've never found a slate or tile that had been stuck down to still be stuck down by the time I got to lift it.
Thank you for this. I’ve got 5/6 tiles to fix from the storms earlier this year. Had 5/6 roofers quote and no one turned up unfortunately. Going to try it myself now! Trouble with these videos is you make it look easy! 😂
Thanks for watching! hope it helps. Have a go, its fairly straight forward. Just make sure you have all of the correct tools.
Great video and thanks for your help Haydn 👍 this saved me a lot of unnecessary bother
Glad it was a help. Thanks for watching and the comment!
i 'give it wheels' by putting a nail head either side to it pivots to get back of slate sitting on the batten
Good tip, Thanks!
didn,t see you replace the broken eave
If customer can't see it, you don't need it.
The roof is set out wrong at bottom missed ro of slates at bottom this means water getting through to felt . Felt is only a temporary cover while doing roof .
All ways all ways put lead or clip at bottom of slate belt and brace’s never use any tec solution To hold slate down as if that slate cracks again you will be replacing 3 slates as the tec solution will be bounded to the other 2 and if and pressure you put on top off that will crack as it’s not flush 👍
Thanks for the comment. I actually hadn't thought of that, makes sense though!
I can't remember: what are those old nails that are a pain to rip out, stainless steel? Had a 'bare minimum' job with mastic and those nails used previously, it was... a practice in patience.
These slates should have 2 eave courses, the 1st is a small eave to hold the rivet in between the actual eave,.. I tell ya these so called roofers!!
Yes I know. An absolute bodge, was installed by a professional roofer 15 years or so ago. Its amazing what you uncover.
Instructive, practical + bit of friendly banter - good show! Quick question - if there is indeed a row of slates underneath, would you still glue it? I've got the exact same issue, with slates underneath, one of which also has a broken corner.
Thanks for watching & the comment! The last slate will always need additional fixing as you cannot access the fixing holes to fix it to the timber batten. Some people use a strap of lead or copper fixed to the batten then fold this up the front of the slate, but I personally think looks unsightly, so yes I would glue it. Relying purely on the copper disc to hold it in place is not enough. If the slate underneath is going to be replaced too, one of the two fixing holes in that should be accessible to fix it to the batten, then just the one on top of it will need some additional fixing i.e glue. Hope this helps, Regards, Haydn
Where was the dummy eave to enable the rivet for the bottom course to be fixed?
Hi, thanks for the comment. Not sure what you mean by the dummy eave? Is that what I would call the under eave course? If so, yes, it looks like most of that is missing or probably never fitted along with no felt support trays. This roof was fitted approx 15 years ago by a so-called professional roofer who had been in the game for many years. I personally don't think its been done particularly well!
Thanks for the video. Is it not better to use a copper strip rather than adhesive ? Due to adhesive failure over time, or water build up above adhesive?
Using a copper strip I suppose is the "proper" method. I used to do that, however I found that they were coming loose again in a short period of time. Probably as the building had kids climbing on the roof most weekends, which is why I tried the adhesive method. That was at least 10 years ago and cant recall any of them coming loose in that time. I only put a couple of spots of adhesive on, not a bead, to prevent water being trapped too much. Also I personally think it looks a bit unsightly have copper strips on show. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Copper wire nailed below on the lath. Then up through the rivet hole. Same look as a rivet and 2 dabs silicone top of tile below ones above ??
Good idea, never thought of that. Thanks!
@@MrRedfreds
Best idea here.. just using some adhesive won't last on theses tiles .. in the summer they get scorching hot and that adhesive will peel off
Thanks for explaining this job. I have composite tiles that have warped on the south facing side of roof and Im finding the copper fixings on the floor where they have fallen out. 10 year old new build and Ive been told need new roof. Can these be repaired?
I'm not a roofer but from the times I have work with theses slates, I have found a few that like you said have warped. I may be wrong but I assume that the copper discs have come out which would then allow the slate to lift / warp over time. I have in the past managed to fit new copper discs to hold them down, however I find they do become brittle and can snap when pressing them back down. It may be worth trying new copper discs before going for a full new roof, you might be lucky and they might not be too brittle.
Thanks for watching and the comment!
The bottom rows ain't right whoever done this roof haven't a clue...
Exactly what I said, its like this all the way along, small slivers beneath each joint. It was actually a so called "professional" roofer with 25 years + trading who did this roof 15 years or so ago. there's been a few comments left saying I haven't fixed the broken eve which I assume they are referring to these "dodgy" slates. Yes in an ideal world I should strip the whole bottom row and re-do it all but how far do you go, I expect it would be like opening a can of worms! I did mention this to the mother-in-law so she knows it hasn't been done correctly in the first place. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Hi, which make/variation of fibre cement slate is this, are the westerland a grade better, longer lasting? Also, Looking to replace roof in leicester area if you can recommend a good roofer?
Unfortunately I have no idea what brand of slate these are and I am not sure if there is much difference between brands TBH. I dont have much to do with these other than the odd slate replacement here and there. I'm based in Durham so cannot recommend anyone in your area, sorry.
Thanks for watching & The comment!
@@HWrenMaintenanceServicesLTD no probs.. thanks for the reply 👍
Lovely
Thanks for watching!
How do these weather over time, how old is this roof
This roof was approx 15 years old. I have found that they seem to become prone to damage and quite brittle around this sort of age, maybe a little sooner. I'm not a roofer so I dont know a great deal about them so maybe some makes are better than others?
@@HWrenMaintenanceServicesLTD thanks for the reply, i had a read and it seems 15 to 25 ties in with what your saying. Penny wise pound foolish, slates will provide the longer lasting roof
Hi how long should this type of slate last?
Hello, I believe manufacturers state 20 years plus, maybe a little more. In my experience I have found they become brittle well before then, maybe 10 years or so and are more easily damaged than when new. I'm not sure if other factors such as south facing so having more heat from the sun plays a part in their life span. Hope this helps.
@@HWrenMaintenanceServicesLTD thank you, how long had these slates been on do you know?
If I remember correctly, these will probably be approx 12 years old.
Job is wrong to start with.