How to Test an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - Using a Basic Multimeter
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Here is a quick video on how you can test your ECT Sensor using a basic multimeter.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchetsand Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchetsand Wrenches. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very Nicely Done Sir!! Thanks So Much For Sharing!!
very great useful information thanks friend
Cool. Just what I wanted to learn. Thanks.
Great lecture
Love always your videos , replaced my Coolant Temperature Sensor for cold engine no heat. Do you think it's possible to add this to your no heat videos. Maybe it will help someone out there like me. Please keep the videos coming they are always short and sweet.👍🏻🇺🇸👋🏻
Good video explanation. Helpful. Thanks
your great videos again : thank you ,,, there are thermo that has no wires can be tested by heat : but I have the same one you have : can I use the heat to test if it opens or not ??? I have heat gun
Hi thanks for all your videos. I have a problem with my 2009 Honda Odyssey. The radiator fan will not turn on and I have incredible fuel consumption. I already followed this video to verify that both ECTS are ok, I checked all the relays and the fuses are ok, I watched your video on how to check the relays with a multimeter. I checked the ECTS connectors and they are fine. The fans are fine because I made a direct connection with a clip on both the fan relays, it's the only way they turn on. I used a scanner in auto zone and it shows these codes P2185 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High), P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High), and P0117 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low). I don't understand why show that, if both ECTs are fine. I don't know what else to check. Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks.
Hi I like to know if the sensor during cold engine the sensor reading 02.8 That is cold engine and during hot go way up
thank you so much
***** np, thanks for watching.
RatchetsAnd Wrenches A relation question about temp sensor (temp sender unit) that drives temp gauge in dash/instrument panel. Over Internet I a way to diagnose problems in a 4AFE using multimeter and/or connecting sensor wire to ground via a bulb.. My problem is that I don't know location of temp sensor on my 4EFE Toyota engine. I have confirmed that the coolant temp sensor doesn't drive the temp gauge. Really appreciate all the help!
+Jhan Jar Buy a Chilton's book
what if the temp sensor is working, but it's still not solving the car issue (such as the temp gauge is always at zero). Is the next step to see if the wiring that connects to the sensor is at fault? Can you use a multimeter on that wiring (the wiring that ordinarily connects to the sensor)? Thanks
Before doing any of this, if you have a three prong connector. Get the car to normal operating temp and unplug the sensor. If the fan comes on, it is the sensor.
Can this component be a factor in the starting/ cranking of the vehicle ? Mine takes at least 5-7 seconds to start and i need to give a little pedal (light touch) at times to allow it to not idle rough. Perhaps 1-2 seconds of rev at about 2000 rpm then release and it idles smoothly. I have eventually learnt a trick which seems to work BUT this drains your battery badly. What i do is, after driving and the car reaching the heat where the fan wants to turn...I park and turn off the car. Then after say 1 minute i turn the key to the on position...i will then hear my fan come on. I then allow the fan to run and switch off , this usually takes about 5 minutes. I then start / crank my car and allow it to idle for say 30seconds -1 minute - i guess this somehow allows the water/coolant to circulate and even out the temperatures.... NOW after it has rested , as if you are at work or home for say 9-15 hours. I start the car and it seems to start just fine - Sometimes i need to give an initial quick accelerator but literally just a quick second if that. If i do not do this fan trick story,,,, then i need to crank forever , like 5-7 seconds and of course give the pedal also so that the car starts
It'd the purge valve
I have found the coolant temperature sensor on my '89 Honda has a great deal to do with smooth starting. I let my car sit all winter and it wouldn't start now that the snow is melted. It would not start without my unhooking my throttle position sensor. Don't ask me why but it allowed me to get the engine started. I could reattach the wire to that sensor and get the engine started when it was warm.
It reminded me of the earlier problems I had with loose connection to the coolant temperature sensor. Very hard starting then and, once I fixed the open, it started perfectly.
This time I checked the resistance of the CTS while the engine was cold (as this video demonstrates) and the sensor has zero resistance. I'm waiting for my new sensor to arrive but I bet you it solves my mysterious starting problems. (The idling problems you describe are also somewhat like the idling problems I have.)
The computer (ECU) did not generate an error code or light the CEL (check eninge light) so it's been a hard problem to diagnose. I guess the ECU thought that the coolant was at 1,000 degrees F (because of zero resistance) so it didn't set the computer to start a cold engine. :-)
Superb..!! 👍😇
My 94 Corolla has one wire can you explain how to test that & how it works please
apparently not. lol My 75 Nova engine is the same...
Mine is reading 5.32 on 20k when cold in boiling I got 1.04 on 20k omh. Also I am using the same multimeter.
Do bad sensor also cause high idle on cold engine?
It can, yes
Depending on your rig I would check the throttle positioning sensor, or the idle air control valve. They are found on the throttle body. The air filter system attaches to the throttle body.
ya it drains almost all of the coolant on a 06' Chevy Equinox just so everybody knows. So have a drip pan ready.
Why does not my car stop immediately when ignition key is turned at(high temperatures)?while at normal temperatures the car stops as soon as the key is turned.
Perhaps there is some carbon that has built up on top of your pistons or on the surface of the cylinder head. I believe carbon deposits can glow when very hot and this may ignite any unburned fuel in the cylinders.
The older your car the more chance that it will have carbon buildup.
Just a guess.
If it's carbon, the cylinder head would have to be removed so the carbon can be removed. Again, if it's carbon, it surely interferes with the precise combustion caused by the spark. I might cause early ignition and then you would hear a "knocking."
If my multimeter numbers jump for a second and then it reads 0.00 what does this mean?
The meter can't read resistance if there is voltage present, is there? It will cause wacky readings and possibly destroy your meter.
Mine is at 1440 at 20k reading is that bad reading
These can cause fan problems I'm sure mine may be bad again
thanks kindly coolant will come out on trailblazers fyi ..... ask me how I know lol
What's the resistance for that truck's coolant temp sensor?
On MOST vehicles, so get ready and change it quick. You can also drain all of the fluid first, but then you might have to worry about air in the system. Sometimes people crack the threads on the sensor s to let any air bubbles out, since it's about the highest point.
@scottp.2995
1 second ago
On MOST vehicles, so get ready and change it quick. You can also drain all of the fluid first, but then you might have to worry about air in the system. Sometimes people crack the threads on the sensor to let any air bubbles out, since it's about the highest point.
how did you calculate that resistance range?
Well, you can read it cold and then read it hot and there "should" be a huge difference, not sure exactly, but most of the time, as long as there is a large difference, that means it works, shrug.