Very helpful. I however use four different wire colors (a different color for each rail). I also use a silver sharpie on the bottom of track to draw an arrow of track direction... This allow to not overthink it by always blue to blue, white to white etc It makes moving track pieces around super easy too. Thank you for the video
Thank you Boone, this is on my to-do-list for a rainy day. I will certainly have a look. I have a 60+ foot track and it needs some jumpers. Luckily I have two power supplies.
Thanks Boone for another fantastic video. Please allow me to share my lone experience with multiple power taps (jumpers). I have a HO two lane micro-raceway (29.5ft/9m) built with AFX track and each lane is equipped with it’s own AFX Tri-Power Pack. When I first built this raceway, I only had one power tap to each lane and my cars seem to have plenty of power throughout the layout. Obviously I didn’t need a jumper, but I did want one, so I decided to add a jumper to each lane at the halfway point of the layout. I can proudly share that I haven’t noticed any change to my car's performance since adding this second power tap. 🤪😂 My two cents on jumpers … Each layout has it’s own demands and each builder has their personal needs and wants. I’m not gonna tell anyone how to build their raceway, but since my expierence with adding a jumper, I will always add a power tap to every 13ft/4m of track.
Haha, glad I watched this man. I always wondered if the lane switchers or digital lane changers would make the wiring backward. But I was wondering, if you have time, after you heal of course, no rush at all man. If you might be able to do a video on accessory wiring. Maybe show how to run the wires into the little power distributor. Im completely lost when it comes to that lol.
Thank you, Scalextric and SCX are very similar in many aspects, mainly do to the fact that SCX was a breakaway company from Scalextric. But I believe that SCX is no longer producing track . The SCX system is really pretty cool , but it isn’t very versatile when it comes to using other cars that are from different manufacturers. The way the SCX digital chip works in the car is that universal. It mounts in the front of the car and has a pin that is activated when you want to make a lane change. Issue is it needs a chassis that doesn’t have a front axle because that is where this chip is located at do to the pin that comes out of the front guide to change lanes. Cool idea, just not practical if you want to purchase other car manufacturers. Most will not work on SCX digital do to this. And I believe this is the reason this track system died. So to answer your question about track . I do prefer Scalextric over SCX . Not because Scalextric has a better digital design. I tend to believe the SCX system is better in some aspects, But the fact that I enjoy running lots of different manufacturers cars . And SCX will not really allow this. Sorry for the long answer 😂… thank you again for watching my channel. Hope this helped
Hi. Thanks for thr video. I may ask. What dob the lane changers matter when it's digital? The power goes to both track pieces. As long as polarity is the same all the way around it shouldn't matter about x overs because of the lane changers no?
I would recommend still running the two . You need to charge up each lane . Otherwise one will have more juice than the other and each lane changer is on separate lanes. The digital part of the track is strictly between the chip in the power base and the car. The lanes of the track are still pretty much the same except at the actual digital pieces of the track. But they both need to have juice to make sure both lanes are running the same . Otherwise one lane will have an advantage over the other
Boone, I have found that having my power-base in between my pit entrance and pit exit, causes the Arc and Magic Arc Apps, to fail to count that lap when I pit. Note: The Magic Arc APK. is easier to use. Tip: Model train conductive paste works on the connections. Do not short circuit! Use sparingly. I apply just a dab in the female rails. PS. Please share info on camera and production tips.🏁
Thank you, I didn’t know that about the location of the power base. I haven’t had that issue yet. But I haven’t really played around with the digital on the track yet since I have put the track back up. And yes I prefer the Magic app as well . The paste sounds like good stuff. As far as the camera. I actually use my iPhone right now for filming my videos. I just set it up on a tripod and go for it 😂…. Thank you for sharing and watching my videos
@@claudem.p.7969 then you’re good to go. If you want to try different cars eventually like Slotit, NSR , and even Scalextric you are going to need to chip those cars with a Carrera chip. The chips can be purchased separately and then installed.
And thank you for watching the videos 😂… almost forgot…. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I’ll do my best to help you out or I will hook you up with someone who has the answer…. And welcome to the wonderful world of slot cars 😂
I'm new to slots and enjoy your channel - the topics and demos are always interesting. Woulld it be possible to get a little closer to your mike to make the audio a little clearer?
I’m confused. Your jumpers are simply from your “mama” piece to its “babies”, but does your main power supply/controllers simply go into a separate terminal track? Why not send jumpers from that source. Maybe my HO set-up is different because it’s not digital? Thanks for the videos!
I personally do not like to run my jumper’s directly from the power base. Especially with a digital power supply. The reason is that I would rather sacrifice a $5.00 piece of track and not a piece that is a bit more expensive. Unfortunately things happen, and if you mess up, it’s a better situation if your only out $5 rather than $150… I base the jumpers at the track just down stream from the power base that way it is almost guaranteed no power drop. And if it does it’s an easy fix..
Correct, but for the video I needed to explain it one way , otherwise I will get a lot of people confused. Just sided on side of caution… better to be safe than sorry.
@@cygnusustus it is… but I run analog as well on it. It’s a ARC Pro , so I have the option of running digital or Analog with the flip of a switch. So being that this is an option with the Scalextric ARC Pro power base, making sure that the wires are going to the correct side is vital in this case
The electric distribution block I used is a generic style. There are a few online that would work better than this set up. Easier to use . This one required a bit of soldering to make it all come together. They have blocks that can have a wire that runs current through the entire block. You would need to run two blocks instead of one for each lane . But the installation would be easier in the end.
I have 14 power taps on my ho track that’s 146ft … ran terminal blocks in the middle of each table with 14 gauge wire (I have (4) 4x8 tables) from driver stations … so I can add power taps if needed… I added them as I needed I started out with 8… I’m probably one every 8-10 ft all my wires are all the same color for each lane so trouble shooting is easy I always try and put them in straight track it’s easier to soldering them … one lane is red/green one lane is black/white Oh ye and mark the track on bottom lmao ask me how I know … flip it over and wire it all backwards lmao 🤣
Has anyone soldered the tracks together at the joints, I guess with a good high wattage iron the rails can be heated and soldered very quick so as not to upset the plastic around them much the same as soldering wires to rails under the track, of course this is only doable on fixed layouts
I have not heard of anyone actually doing this. I guess it would work. It would be the closest way of making a plastic track perform like a wood router track. Only issue would be once it’s done it’s done 😂… but if it was done for a permanent layout than “why not “ 😂
Exactly that ....and will smooth out the transition of tracks, I am in the throws of doing a permanent track have some 200 PC's of classic and sport track which I intend to combine, the classic corner bits are very "grippy" compaired to sport track and may just make the difference between fast corners and very slippery sports corners ???, all the tracks are very well polished and clean so after all that effort I may aswell use them, for some reason second hand classic track does not sell well, and such a waste to dispose of
I note you not placed much emphasis on the securing of your tracks to board, unless unless I missed that video I have had to make my own (c8332) clips for the sports track as they just don't appear to be available in my country, classic fixing I may just use hot melt glue, under outer edges before I do borders and track edge widening bits Your comments ???
@@eugene4154 yes , it’s interesting how they changed the smoothness of the track from the classic to the sport track. In many ways I prefer the classic grip to the newer track. Sounds like you have a good idea going on . Looking forward to seeing what you come up with
@@eugene4154 that’s cool about making your own clips . If you are planning on soldering the tracks together than mounting the track to the table is not such a big issue. Meaning that you can use glue or the like to secure it down without the need to remove any pieces of the track. Sky is the limit 😂. Before I moved my layout down to Texas I used a friction fit concept to secure my track down. I built my edges very tightly to track to secure them into place. I decided to to this for a couple reasons. One so I could remove track if needed, and the other was due to the track being on a pulley system. As i raised and lowered the table it would flex some. By having the pieces of track floating it aloud the track pieces to flex and not have an issue with damage. I do have a video that covers this some but in your case you don’t really have those issues to contend with. I’m pondering now if I want to blend my track into my scenery. It really makes everything look really good, but it doesn’t exactly make for a perfect situation if you have to do some repairs to the track 😂 …
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage No problem. I've got to build my circuit first, so have 'saved this'.... I'm Michael, the idiot planning to use real plant's, Cacti etc..
@@HTJB60 😂… no worries… I’m really looking forward to seeing your track. It’s going to something special once you have living plants incorporated into your scenery
Just not my style buddy… plus I have tried shorter videos in the past and have been swamped by questions about how to do certain steps in the process. So longer videos cover this issue. I do understand that for a person that is familiar with modeling or has a high level of mechanical aptitude , my videos are way too long and cover too much information. But for the newcomers they help cover all the different aspects and questions that might come up. Unfortunately not too many channels out on CZcams cover things in depth.
Great explanation! and an awesome layout- thanks,
ct
Thank you Clint
G’day Boone , thanks for the video but each time you mentioned Jumpers i automatically thought of what you call sweaters 😁😊
😂 😂 😂….. thanks Mate
Ataboy booneman very informative good job
Thanks buddy , kinda walked the tightrope with this one 😂
Very helpful. I however use four different wire colors (a different color for each rail). I also use a silver sharpie on the bottom of track to draw an arrow of track direction... This allow to not overthink it by always blue to blue, white to white etc It makes moving track pieces around super easy too. Thank you for the video
Thank you 😊
Thank you Boone, this is on my to-do-list for a rainy day. I will certainly have a look. I have a 60+ foot track and it needs some jumpers. Luckily I have two power supplies.
Hope it helps you out buddy.
Great information Boone thanks 👍
Thank you Lee
thanks Boone great video.
Thanks buddy
Thanks Boone for another fantastic video. Please allow me to share my lone experience with multiple power taps (jumpers).
I have a HO two lane micro-raceway (29.5ft/9m) built with AFX track and each lane is equipped with it’s own AFX Tri-Power Pack. When I first built this raceway, I only had one power tap to each lane and my cars seem to have plenty of power throughout the layout. Obviously I didn’t need a jumper, but I did want one, so I decided to add a jumper to each lane at the halfway point of the layout. I can proudly share that I haven’t noticed any change to my car's performance since adding this second power tap. 🤪😂
My two cents on jumpers … Each layout has it’s own demands and each builder has their personal needs and wants. I’m not gonna tell anyone how to build their raceway, but since my expierence with adding a jumper, I will always add a power tap to every 13ft/4m of track.
Thanks buddy, this is one of those subjects 😂
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage … It is. One of those that can polarize and you did a great job of staying in the middle of the road. 😎🤙
Haha, glad I watched this man. I always wondered if the lane switchers or digital lane changers would make the wiring backward. But I was wondering, if you have time, after you heal of course, no rush at all man. If you might be able to do a video on accessory wiring. Maybe show how to run the wires into the little power distributor. Im completely lost when it comes to that lol.
Sounds good Mike, and thank you buddy
Great video B 👍
Thanks buddy
Gonna watch this later, nearer when my circuit's built....
Good deal
Very informative thank you, I’ll install those jumpers, question, do I need to install a new power source ?
Thanks buddy, you should not have to replace your power source. As long as it’s working correctly with your current setup you will be fine.
I got a bad jumper for Xmas 😆 🤣
😂 😂 😂
Hey Boone.....what's your opinion on SCX 1/32 digital track compared to ScaleXtric digital track. Really enjoy the content.
Thank you, Scalextric and SCX are very similar in many aspects, mainly do to the fact that SCX was a breakaway company from Scalextric. But I believe that SCX is no longer producing track . The SCX system is really pretty cool , but it isn’t very versatile when it comes to using other cars that are from different manufacturers. The way the SCX digital chip works in the car is that universal. It mounts in the front of the car and has a pin that is activated when you want to make a lane change. Issue is it needs a chassis that doesn’t have a front axle because that is where this chip is located at do to the pin that comes out of the front guide to change lanes. Cool idea, just not practical if you want to purchase other car manufacturers. Most will not work on SCX digital do to this. And I believe this is the reason this track system died. So to answer your question about track . I do prefer Scalextric over SCX . Not because Scalextric has a better digital design. I tend to believe the SCX system is better in some aspects, But the fact that I enjoy running lots of different manufacturers cars . And SCX will not really allow this. Sorry for the long answer 😂… thank you again for watching my channel. Hope this helped
Hi. Thanks for thr video.
I may ask. What dob the lane changers matter when it's digital? The power goes to both track pieces. As long as polarity is the same all the way around it shouldn't matter about x overs because of the lane changers no?
Correct, but Scalextric is both analog and digital
Cool Video!
Have a question. Would Digital Tracks need 2 Jumpers per lane or just 1 Jumper still? Know Analog would need 2 Jumpers.
I would recommend still running the two . You need to charge up each lane . Otherwise one will have more juice than the other and each lane changer is on separate lanes. The digital part of the track is strictly between the chip in the power base and the car. The lanes of the track are still pretty much the same except at the actual digital pieces of the track. But they both need to have juice to make sure both lanes are running the same . Otherwise one lane will have an advantage over the other
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage Thanks! Was just wondering is all.
@@dennisosborn5589 no problem 😉
Boone,
I have found that having my power-base in between my pit entrance and pit exit,
causes the Arc and Magic Arc Apps, to fail to count that lap when I pit.
Note: The Magic Arc APK. is easier to use.
Tip: Model train conductive paste works on the connections.
Do not short circuit! Use sparingly. I apply just a dab in the female rails.
PS. Please share info on camera and production tips.🏁
Thank you, I didn’t know that about the location of the power base. I haven’t had that issue yet. But I haven’t really played around with the digital on the track yet since I have put the track back up. And yes I prefer the Magic app as well . The paste sounds like good stuff. As far as the camera. I actually use my iPhone right now for filming my videos. I just set it up on a tripod and go for it 😂…. Thank you for sharing and watching my videos
EXCELLENT explantion. QUESTION: I have bought the Digital 124 kit with cars. can I use the 132 digital cars on my kit ?
Yes , as long as they are chipped with the correct chip needed for your digital system.
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage i bought the carrera 23631 digital 124 start your engine and only digital cars 132 from carrera
@@claudem.p.7969 then you’re good to go. If you want to try different cars eventually like Slotit, NSR , and even Scalextric you are going to need to chip those cars with a Carrera chip. The chips can be purchased separately and then installed.
And thank you for watching the videos 😂… almost forgot…. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I’ll do my best to help you out or I will hook you up with someone who has the answer…. And welcome to the wonderful world of slot cars 😂
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage yes Even if I am an engineer with a PhD from MIT I like your explanation a lot
I'm new to slots and enjoy your channel - the topics and demos are always interesting. Woulld it be possible to get a little closer to your mike to make the audio a little clearer?
I’m going to work on that . I have noticed that in the videos here at the new place that the audio quality is not the best
Thank you for watching, and welcome to the world of slot cars
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage Appreciate you sharing your work - amazing
@@markrossi8237 thank you Mark , if you have any questions please feel free to reach out, I’ll do my best to help you out
I’m confused. Your jumpers are simply from your “mama” piece to its “babies”, but does your main power supply/controllers simply go into a separate terminal track? Why not send jumpers from that source. Maybe my HO set-up is different because it’s not digital? Thanks for the videos!
I personally do not like to run my jumper’s directly from the power base. Especially with a digital power supply. The reason is that I would rather sacrifice a $5.00 piece of track and not a piece that is a bit more expensive. Unfortunately things happen, and if you mess up, it’s a better situation if your only out $5 rather than $150… I base the jumpers at the track just down stream from the power base that way it is almost guaranteed no power drop. And if it does it’s an easy fix..
Thanks, Boone. Appreciate you and your videos!
@@docorocsrt thanks bud
For digital you do not need to jump the lanes separately or worry about crossovers.
Correct, but for the video I needed to explain it one way , otherwise I will get a lot of people confused. Just sided on side of caution… better to be safe than sorry.
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage
What confused me is that I thought you mentioned your scalectrix track was didgital.
@@cygnusustus it is… but I run analog as well on it. It’s a ARC Pro , so I have the option of running digital or Analog with the flip of a switch. So being that this is an option with the Scalextric ARC Pro power base, making sure that the wires are going to the correct side is vital in this case
What the name of the wire connector you used please
The electric distribution block I used is a generic style. There are a few online that would work better than this set up. Easier to use . This one required a bit of soldering to make it all come together. They have blocks that can have a wire that runs current through the entire block. You would need to run two blocks instead of one for each lane . But the installation would be easier in the end.
I have 14 power taps on my ho track that’s 146ft … ran terminal blocks in the middle of each table with 14 gauge wire (I have (4) 4x8 tables) from driver stations … so I can add power taps if needed… I added them as I needed I started out with 8… I’m probably one every 8-10 ft all my wires are all the same color for each lane so trouble shooting is easy I always try and put them in straight track it’s easier to soldering them … one lane is red/green one lane is black/white
Oh ye and mark the track on bottom lmao ask me how I know … flip it over and wire it all backwards lmao 🤣
Very cool, sounds like a good setup
Has anyone soldered the tracks together at the joints, I guess with a good high wattage iron the rails can be heated and soldered very quick so as not to upset the plastic around them much the same as soldering wires to rails under the track, of course this is only doable on fixed layouts
I have not heard of anyone actually doing this. I guess it would work. It would be the closest way of making a plastic track perform like a wood router track. Only issue would be once it’s done it’s done 😂… but if it was done for a permanent layout than “why not “ 😂
Exactly that ....and will smooth out the transition of tracks,
I am in the throws of doing a permanent track have some 200 PC's of classic and sport track which I intend to combine, the classic corner bits are very "grippy" compaired to sport track and may just make the difference between fast corners and very slippery sports corners ???, all the tracks are very well polished and clean so after all that effort I may aswell use them, for some reason second hand classic track does not sell well, and such a waste to dispose of
I note you not placed much emphasis on the securing of your tracks to board, unless unless I missed that video
I have had to make my own (c8332) clips for the sports track as they just don't appear to be available in my country, classic fixing I may just use hot melt glue, under outer edges before I do borders and track edge widening bits
Your comments ???
@@eugene4154 yes , it’s interesting how they changed the smoothness of the track from the classic to the sport track. In many ways I prefer the classic grip to the newer track. Sounds like you have a good idea going on . Looking forward to seeing what you come up with
@@eugene4154 that’s cool about making your own clips . If you are planning on soldering the tracks together than mounting the track to the table is not such a big issue. Meaning that you can use glue or the like to secure it down without the need to remove any pieces of the track. Sky is the limit 😂. Before I moved my layout down to Texas I used a friction fit concept to secure my track down. I built my edges very tightly to track to secure them into place. I decided to to this for a couple reasons. One so I could remove track if needed, and the other was due to the track being on a pulley system. As i raised and lowered the table it would flex some. By having the pieces of track floating it aloud the track pieces to flex and not have an issue with damage. I do have a video that covers this some but in your case you don’t really have those issues to contend with. I’m pondering now if I want to blend my track into my scenery. It really makes everything look really good, but it doesn’t exactly make for a perfect situation if you have to do some repairs to the track 😂 …
LOL, Being OLD really is a PROBLEM.................. Just tried to watch a bit of it and it's not even ready yet ! Drrrrrrrr.
😂, sorry about that. The videos are on a 24 hour delay. I give the Patreons the first 24 hours to watch the videos now
@@BoonesSlotCarGarage No problem. I've got to build my circuit first, so have 'saved this'.... I'm Michael, the idiot planning to use real plant's, Cacti etc..
@@HTJB60 😂… no worries… I’m really looking forward to seeing your track. It’s going to something special once you have living plants incorporated into your scenery
way cool
Dude your videos are too long! Get to the damn point faster!!
I couldn’t get through the video. It’s way too redundant
Just not my style buddy… plus I have tried shorter videos in the past and have been swamped by questions about how to do certain steps in the process. So longer videos cover this issue. I do understand that for a person that is familiar with modeling or has a high level of mechanical aptitude , my videos are way too long and cover too much information. But for the newcomers they help cover all the different aspects and questions that might come up. Unfortunately not too many channels out on CZcams cover things in depth.