Left handed drillbits. Dis-similar metals, likely some sort of steel and looks like aluminum, I'd go straight to drilling it out to the next larger tap size, then re-tap the hole. Everytime there are dis simmilar metals, bot howdy do they just wanna weld themselves together. Alternatively, if you have space, coming at the remaining stuck portion of broken bolt from whereever the "back or bottom" side is could POTENTIALLY help releive some rust. Youd need to drill a small hole, small as you can, from the opposite side as if you were drilling out the old bolt in reverse. This extra tiny hole helps getting any lubricant or nutbutter you are using to the deeper parts of the threads. If there isnt much old bolt sticking out or anywhere near the surface of the hole, that's a pain in the testicular carry sack, 100%. Sadly, i work manufacturing drills, carbide tipped and everything. I have a bunch of .125"(1/8") diameter 6inch long aircraft extension drills chillin at the house. Nice hardened steel, Boeing and those guys buy them for riveting planes together. If you are around mid-Florida, i have no issue throwing a couple drills your way. Outside of that, buddy, that's right in the suck. Every broken bolt is like 6hr minimum to remove/re-tap/repair/re-assemble. You likely got her fixed by now though.
Appreciate you man, got her out after 4+ hours of drilling and patience. Just in time for the race 2 days ago. Will have an upload today. I threw a ton of anti seize and will be checking on it each tire change. (Every 3 months or so) definitely a pain in the rear end. Didn’t know it was that common of issue so luckily was able to reach out to some guys for some advice.
Weld a nut to that broken bolt then spray lube the best u can so it will go into the threads and work it back and forth, sometimes it takes a few nuts to get them out
Left handed drillbits.
Dis-similar metals, likely some sort of steel and looks like aluminum, I'd go straight to drilling it out to the next larger tap size, then re-tap the hole.
Everytime there are dis simmilar metals, bot howdy do they just wanna weld themselves together.
Alternatively, if you have space, coming at the remaining stuck portion of broken bolt from whereever the "back or bottom" side is could POTENTIALLY help releive some rust. Youd need to drill a small hole, small as you can, from the opposite side as if you were drilling out the old bolt in reverse.
This extra tiny hole helps getting any lubricant or nutbutter you are using to the deeper parts of the threads.
If there isnt much old bolt sticking out or anywhere near the surface of the hole, that's a pain in the testicular carry sack, 100%.
Sadly, i work manufacturing drills, carbide tipped and everything. I have a bunch of .125"(1/8") diameter 6inch long aircraft extension drills chillin at the house.
Nice hardened steel, Boeing and those guys buy them for riveting planes together.
If you are around mid-Florida, i have no issue throwing a couple drills your way.
Outside of that, buddy, that's right in the suck. Every broken bolt is like 6hr minimum to remove/re-tap/repair/re-assemble.
You likely got her fixed by now though.
Appreciate you man, got her out after 4+ hours of drilling and patience. Just in time for the race 2 days ago. Will have an upload today. I threw a ton of anti seize and will be checking on it each tire change. (Every 3 months or so) definitely a pain in the rear end. Didn’t know it was that common of issue so luckily was able to reach out to some guys for some advice.
Weld a nut to that broken bolt then spray lube the best u can so it will go into the threads and work it back and forth, sometimes it takes a few nuts to get them out