FERRANIA P30 - Watch THIS Video Before Trying This Film Stock!
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2022
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Tried my hand at shooting black and white film for the first time, using Ferrania P30 - shooting with the Canon AE-1
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P30 is a high contrast film. Incorrect development may increase the contrast even more. I develop my own BW and I get less contrasty results than your lab provided but it is still contrasty. I use P30 on dull days where an increase in contrast is desired. You can use Kentmere 100 or 400. Kentmere made by the same people as those that make Illford. It is cheaper because it has less silver. But is a great film and cheaper to explore BW. I use it a lot. For important work I prefer Kodak TMax 100 or 400. Illfords delta films are good also.
Ferrania P30 is an orthochromatic b&w film stock rather than panchromatic; meaning it isn't sensitive to some colors. For this, reds will appear much darker and blues much lighter than a normal b&w film.
B&w is a whole other world/ It requires knowledge, because its not only the film, its film EI, developer and development method, then scan quality. Scans depends on the software greatly. Any scan requires editing. That's the nature of digital capture. If you want real B&W make silver prints, and learn to expose and develop to the density you want.
That s a highly technical film, beautiful stuff but hard to expose well, hard to develop well and hard to print as well due to the super fine grain!
It was used in most of Italian neorealist movies from the 60s, Fellini also used it. Iconic stuff. Ferrania got tits up years and years ago and only recently some guys bought the rights to the name and the old equipment at the abandoned factory, restoring the production of the p30, that stuff is legendary.
I shot one roll and hated it. I got far superior results with the look using Rollei Retro 80s
I highly recommend developing black and white at home. It’s super easy and it’ll cost you like 150-200 bucks to get what you need. Super satisfying process too.
I think I have a couple rolls of ilford in BW but haven’t used them yet, one day. I like BW photography though
Yeah, I’ve been sitting on mine for a while. I’m def more open to shooting BW going forward.
I went to my local store yesterday and asked the old timer to give me something with lots of contrast and he immediately reached for Ferrania P30. Glad to see he knew his films .
Man i love the quality you use on your videos, and your a great photographer too,
Cool video Tristan. Just subbed. Love the work. Love the contrast. Warhol said I like my blacks black and whites white.
Fire video bro!
Preciate you brother! 👊🏿
Going to echo the love for HP5 +. It's very forgiving and has a nice grain to it. It also pushes extremely well. I meter at 800 and get the lab to push it a stop for extra contrast. I've heard some people push it to 1600 with great results as well. A very versatile film for any scenario.
Also, P30 kicked my ass up and down the block. I had only 4 pics from my roll that I was really pleased with. Definitely a cloudy day kind of film or open shade.
P30 is possibly one of the most high contrast films you could shoot. No surprise in seeing the unedited scans come back, especially if you metered for the highlights.
HP5+ or the cheaper Kentmere 400 would likely give you more the shadow detail you’re used to seeing and are far more forgiving b&w film.
The other consideration is that someone else scanned your negs without any knowledge of how you shot them or your intentions. Pro labs are either straight scanning or scanning and adjusting the JPG / Tiff files. These could just be poor quality scans from great negs.
Not sure where you are going, but if you’re using Samy’s I’ve had less than a great experience with them, scanning my film after processing. I’m now mailing film to Memphis Film Lab- which adds ti turnaround times but is about the same and am much happier.
It's the film, it just happens to be high contrast AND orthochromatic. Great video, totally understand your gripe.
New to your channel so not sure what you do for scanning film but if you rely on labs to scan your film you will always be disappointed with black and white scans, it’s always better to scan them yourself so you can then apply your own edits and not have them dark and over contrasty
When I get back in town, I think I need to go with you next time !
Such a good vid. You’re work is so consistently dope. (Really just here for the glimpse of my girl Stef ✨. Heeeeyy friend 🥰)
Thaaaanks Leslie. (back off, she's MINE)
I LOVE your ‘vlogs’. Seeing you behind the camera. :)
Thanks girl!
Tristy, the problem is: they probably don't know at the lab how to properly develop the negative to suit your taste. They have some kind of machinery there, they put the roll into that and they expect „it'll be OK”. And that approach works in case of recipes like C-41. But BW film is different story! Because by using other kind of developer chemicals you can get more soft result, if you prefer that. You mustn't change anything during C-41 development process - OTOH the development process of BW films may vary according to what you want to achieve. But no lab will spend their time by „tinkering” especially for you! 🙃 They'll use just their standard procedure „for everyone” - and for every kind of film (which won't work equally good for every film) - nothing more.
But developing BW films on one's own isn't that difficult! All you need is development tank, 2-3 thermometers and one hour of your time. You can go even further, if you really love photography; you may want then to buy an enlarger, and to make pictures on the paper the old, „traditional” way - think about the possibilities that various grades of papers offer!
This is just one example (google for that) of a developer you may want to use: „Product information "TETENAL Ultrafin liquid 0,25 l" Universal one shot developer for all B/W negative films. Dilution variable, depending on the film type and desired negative contrast.
Dilution: 1 + 10 up to 1 + 30, 0,25 l conc. for up to 20 films.”
So you see: there's a need to adjust even a dilution, depending on the effect you want to achieve. They don't have time neither lust at the lab for such details!
There are several ways to add just contrast in processing alone. Labs just use standard procedures for processing unless otherwise directed. No excuse for the crap scans though, they could have scanned totally flat if they had paid attention.
I really like P30, along with Pan F 50, Tmax 100. Yes, I like contrast. It's not a film I'd start with as you found out. I found it to be like Pan F on hard mode...
It's a film that requires a lot of forethought, and is done best at home. It's very much film! I too found some noticeable grain but I think it was underexposed to retain the highlights. I've shot it other times and it was super clean.
Those lab scans don't look good but doesn't seem too out of the ordinary for lab results with this film. Which doesn't seem to be your workflow. If you want more the airy open shadows. I think HP5+, FP4+, Tri-X, even those kentmere are probably your best choice. Along with not having to do too much post-scan-edits even try Ilford XP2. It's not "true" b&w but gives nice open shadows and a lot of the c-41 latitude.
For those who might want to try this film: Rodinal either semi-stand or full stand, or rate it down to 50, possibly try mono-baths, or two-step developers.
Thanks as always for the video and a glimpse into the process. I have never used a film camera - I mean other than the point and click Kodaks from my youth. Favorite photo was the one of the pigeon on the railing.
Thanks to watching man! I’m glad you enjoyed it. You oughta give it a shot man. I started taking it seriously earlier this year and now I’m addicted.
@@TristanErvin Recommendations for a good starter camera? Something inexpensive to get my feet wet?
Watched this as I am about to play with this film for the first time. I remember reading a review of it headlined, “This answers the question, ‘Can there be too much contrast?’” This is a good reminder to be thoughtful about what I am photographing with P30. Next question is what to develop it in. Thinking D96, but if the crowd has any recommendations, love to read.
Well... I loved the video, but I'm going to chime in, because Ferrania P30 is a film I shoot regularly, It has to be in my top 3 B&W film stocks of all time. That said, what your lab (technically it wasn't your lab, but where they sent your B&W film to.) as they did with the scans is almost disrespectful to all photographers, period. As far as the development of the film I can't say conclusively without seeing the negatives, but they too look sub-par. Ferrania P30 is best developed at home, after much testing I got the best results using Kodak D-96, and as a side note the Ferrania P30 is best shot at between ISO 45-60, second note avoid shooting directly into the sun where your subjects are back-lit, unless you're using good ND filters. Ferrania P30 is a film with super-high silver content on a clear base with ultra-small/fine film grain, when shot correctly there is almost no visible grain. The film is high contrast, and has high resolution capabilities, and very limited latitude (+/- 1/3 stop up or down) so if your not spot on with your metering the mid-tones will get lost on you. Now I haven't been able to verify anywhere but I believe the film might also be Ortho chromatic - very sensitive to the red spectrum of light, even though the website and packaging state its a Panchromatic film, it might be a Panchromatic film as stated, but it really has a red sensitivity. Lastly through my own testing, I've found that any older type glass (lenses) that have Thorium (that yellowish tint to them) like the older Canon, Pentax, and Olympus lenses have an easier time with bringing out better mid tones in the film.
Loved the vid! Yeah, haven't shot this particular film stock but those blacks look way too dark to my eye. Really could have been a scanning issue by the lab. You'll probably enjoy Ilford HP5 Plus because it is not nearly as contrasty as this.
Thanks man! Yeah they were wayyy to dark for my liking. I may rescan them myself just to make sure. I have a roll of Ilford HP5 in medium format that I’m gonna use once my Pentax is out of repair.
Nice video. Thanks. My everyday b/w film is Ilford HP5. It is very reliable and forgiving. XP2 is a very good choice also, if you‘re not developing yourself.
My first 35mm film camera was a Canon AE1 and I still have it. Bought it for myself for Christmas back in 1977 or '78. I was in the 10th grade. I agree, the wave crashing at 3:02 is my favorite. Nice video. keep up the good work.
Nice! Are you still using it? Thanks for watching Richard!
@@TristanErvin I don't get out as much as I'd like to, but do have a roll of Fujifilm Acros in it right now. I shoot digital now mostly but I do kinda miss the whole film process, from loading the film to the waiting and anticipation to see what I captured.
And I've noticed a sort of renaissance of film. Especially amongst young people.
I hope to shoot more film in the coming year.
Amazing tones in these shots brother, you saved them for sure ! Good stuff.
Keep shooting b & w Deff makes your color work improve.
For landscapes: color film & portraits: b & w
Street photography : 800 speed of color film or b & w film
Preciate you bro! I’m glad I was able to bring them back to life.
Hi, many years ago Ferrania were really big in colour film production, they also produced film for other companies like Polaroid, 3M bought them out and film production ceased in 2009. The P30 film carries the name Ferrania, but it was developed by ex-employees and fans I believe? It always gets good reviews, and if your photos are anything to go by then those
reviews are justified, nicely done 😁It is expensive as b&w film goes, there are many others half the price for anyone thinking of giving b&w a try. I love the the medium and use it as much as colour print film, mostly in 120 roll film cameras in 6x9 format, in this format due to the size of the negatives 6x9 you only get 8 shots, the negatives are 60mm x 90mm, huge compared to 35mm which are 36mm x 24mm. Give it a go, most 120 roll film cameras in 6 x 9 format are folding cameras old style, if you do decide to go for one check that the bellows are light tight, sound odd ?😁you will know when you see one! Cheers, greetings from Wales.
Can’t wait to see some B&W ran through the M6.
ME TOO
I’ve been trying to buy a Fujifilm X100V for fake film… love the look of the film simulations
I have one coming in the mail today! Got it for the same reason. I’m interested in seeing what I can do with the film simulations
Haven’t really shot b&w but i recently got a couple of kentmare 400 and shot a roll of it on my mamiya just waiting to go get them developed
Oh nice! I’d like to see how those come out. I’ve heard nothing but good things about that stock.
I used to be a film camera guy long ago. I have the original Olympus OM1 and a modest number of lenses. After checking out your page I'm probably going to reopen that door. I noticed some drone footage in your opening credits. Are you flying a drone as well?
I'm coming from mostly B&W (pre digital days); also shot color in the old days. Now I shoot both digital and film equally. I happen to love FerraniaP30 but it's not for everyone. It's the rich black and noir-look that I want, albeit sometimes. When I have trouble getting P30, IlfordPanF is a close second (ISO50). I develop B&W at home. I've also used Tetenal C41 developer at home for color film. I have to have a color film project to make it worthwhile so I can use a whole kit before the chemicals expire. Color is not that difficult, you just need a water heater (Cinestill has one for $100). Anyway, look up the history of P30. It's not exactly the same cinema stock from the great 20thC art movies (think Felini) but it's close. You might get a different appreciation for it and choose a different location (not the beach). It's not going to be an all around film stock for you but worth exploring.
Yes, the P30 is a very high contrast film with his own, and what i know unique, spectral response. High sensitivity to blue and low to red like ortho-cromatic films. It's somewhat of an ortho-pancromatic film. And film-labs with a standard development mai often destroy your results. Try to develop this special film by your own. I have best results with Rollei Supergrain developer 1+50 semi-stand development. First minute of agitation- 11 min stand- 10 sec agit.- 13 min stand, tank upside down, 10 sec agit.- 15 min stand for at all 40 min of development. Stop and fix, washing after with clear water and final rinse with stab. That's only one way. For me it's one of the best films ever produced. If you need to use filters, yellow or orange. With red filters it's hard. Cheers and good light.🙂
BW films are a wide, wild world. You can get very different results from the same film with different chemicals. Some labs like Rodinal which is a long-trusted developer, but produces a lot of grain. P30 is also a very contrasty film. It can be a real shocker when you're used to soft tones like Gold/Portra.
I'd recommend trying again with any Kodak or Ilford film and send it to a lab that uses D-76 or other fine-grained developer.
Bw film requires you to meter differently though. Start off with XP2, it’s BW but your lab would dev it as C41. You can play w that, get it back sooner. Crazy that they send it off though
I'll def keep that in mind next time. Thanks for the tip!
I shot my first roll last week. its a very fine grained film - looks like your lab messed up the processing. For scans I default to TIFF as its the nearest to RAW. jpeg scans kill the dynamic range, particularly on the P30 which is so contrasty we can't afford to lose any info. to get proof of use I went in to the darkroom to print off the negatives. Played with contrast filters on the enlarger as well. its a gorgeous film, very tricky for skin esp. when there is a strong contrasty light. as the film doesn't pick up red light spectrum, skin is tough in bright contrasty light (both light skinned and people of color) - next time I shoot it I will actually bring the light meter to the face of the person, and set exposure this way, rather than a more general scene weighted light reading. low light, indoors or early evening there is a magical feeling to this film. for contrasty but usable portrait work I love fuji acros II and even ilford hp5. cinestill xx is another awesome one. rollei retro 400 is pretty cool albeit a little grainy.
Use box speed (80) and develop in D96, it's a motion picture film after all, either Kodak or Bellini alternative. It gets sticky in the changing bag, so don't waste any time!
Since its origin is a cine film, it was designed to be developed by a lower contrast developer such as D-96. My experience with P30 shows that for conventional developers it is really an ISO 40 film and that it needs development pulled back 20% to get contrast under control. By the way, most labs absolutely suck at scanning black and white film.
I’ve only shot one roll of P30 so far and it was an experiment. I exposed almost half my pics at iso 40 and the other half at iso 80. The pics I shot +1 stop overexposed have a little more detail in them. It’s still pretty contrasty but I really like the look and I’m looking forward to shooting it again. However, it’s not what I’d call an everyday b&w and might have been a bit of a shock as your first b&w. I believe it’s worth trying again, but next time shoot it at iso 40 and standard developing. Nice video and nice pics!
What temp and time for D96?
You can lower your contrast by over exposing, pulling in dev a bit. Shooting FP4 at iso 50 would probably have been ideal for that light. I agree you want flat-curve scans ideal for adding some contrast to taste.
I know it’s a lot … it becomes 2nd nature after a few rolls but you do have to do it yourself (or work closely with a lab).
If you dont like grain then shoot digital. I looove grain,it gives something to the photo. But apart of that, here color film oyt of stock everywhere,seems like color film going south. I shoot color with canon 5dm2 and BW film. Fp4 and Foma 100 my favourite, develop and darkroom print myself. Try to darkroom print BW film, alot of fun. Regards
5-7 business days? You can get them back in under an hr IF you just develop it yourself!
I develop all my film myself. Ferrania is a wonderful film, but needs to be hand developed. It is not ment for machine processing. It's even written on the ferrania website.
Are you still using the Thanos SE?
Do you know the process regimen and chemicals used by the lab? P30 should have practically invisible grain. But it *is* very contrasty and most people have found it's better shot at 50ISO. Try the Ilford, it's more forgiving.
Hmmmm... I'm in Virginia and my lab for all my film (B+W, Color, 35mm, & 120) and they are in California... I think Carlsbad (The Darkroom). Perhaps you should give them a try.
Apparently this film is orthochromatic and should be shot at around iso 30/32, both of which Ferrania don't mention anywhere. Go figure.
A soft working developer in stand development may help as well.
It's a look you either love or hate.
P30 is a super contrasty film and I woudln't recommend it to those shooting black and white for the first time. I would suggest if you're living in LA, either Kentmere 100, Fomapan 100 or Ilford FP4, you will find a more forgiving film. I've been shooting for over 20 years and find P30 to be a tricky film to shoot and process.
Don’t give up on B&W. I think you’ll get the results you are looking for with HP5.
I’m counting on it!
looks like it might be a filmstock better suited to less contrasty environments!
Listen up bro... Get some Kentmere Pan 100. It shoots waaaay flat. You will have plenty of room to curve, shadow and highlight. I develop my own. So my negs give me a second layer of raw
I like ilford but I gave it up 40 years ago.
Why's that?
14 years??? Do you still have the same love for it?
Lol yeah man, 14 years. I still have the same love for it. I've had my ebbs and flows but I got back to loving it when I started doing it more for myself and not other people - having to meet THEIR expectations was never fun for me.
Not a good choice for your first B&W film. Try out Ilford HP5+ or Kentmere
Your images are nice, but don't you think it defeats the object of using film to alter them digitally? You may as well just use a digital camera. Just a thought.
It’s my work, and I edit at my own discretion. How my lab color corrects is different from how I want them to look. I’m not the first, won’t be the last.
@@TristanErvin Fair comment.
This is the worst film for a first try at B&W. This is my favourite film but its not easy. Shoot it at 50iso, do not shoot it in bright sun, contrasty conditions. This is a fine grain film so I dont know what the hell the lab did developing that film but they made a complete balls up of it. As far as lab scans, ask for flat scans with no auto contrast adjustments, as you can see this film doesnt need any added contrast. Hidden light in Flagstaff AZ do a great job processing film and offer RAW scans.
I shot 1 roll of B&W film and did not like how it came out. I def forgot which roll, think it may have been Ilford 400.
Great video overall. Loved that wave/water photo also out of the set!
I have been taking photographs for over 50 years, and serious photography for nearly 45 yeras. I use film in all formats including 4x5 and digital from Nikon, Canon, Sony and Olympus. I have shot a lot of Kodak Tech Pan 2415 in the early 80s, and I still like to challenge myself with shooting difficult B&W process film like ADOX CMS 20 II. Ferrania P30 is a very very difficult emulsion to master, and to get the best of it you really need to be in charge of every step of its processing. Once you have achieved that, then the film will reward you. Take my advice please, if you have not shot B&W before, then start with something like the HP5 Plus, or FP4 Plus, because the chances are that every lab in the country knows how to develope these films correctly, and they are also very forgiving of any mistakes, within reason ofcourse. B&W photography is all about shapes and tones, and an inherently high contrast , low lattitude film like Ferrania P30 is not going to be forgiving with your mistakes. Good luck with your future endeavours. A lot of times, today's fashion is not the best servant of our goals. Stick with easy to manage films in the beginning.
I already shit this film and i didn't had so much grain
I believe the lab screwed the film on developing. This film should have much less grain. Probably a not recommended developer and time led to that
Good review. This is an awful film. Horrible blocked up shadows and difficult to expose for and develop. I’d Go for Rollei Retro 80s if you want the look but with a fat superior film - or Kodak Double-X.