This is by far the easiest to follow of all these videos i have watched. Its short and sweet and to the point. Not a lot of side chatter to distract those of us ADHD people. I give you 10 out of 10 stars!
I highly appreciate this information and video. Customer had their GMC 1500 towed to us due to Passlock issues. What did not help was that nearly all the wires of the Passlock module was cut and then some aftermarket alarm was installed that was also a hack mess. Did this resistor add in, only had a 3.3k resistor and it worked after the three 10 minute cycles. Thank you again.
Great Job. I like to heat shrink and solder everything too. Im doing a similar bypass with the 85 Corvette soon. I would Ohm my key to ID the resister but I dont have the original key. I have a bunch of other stuff to do first before I get back to work on the Vette. I will post a video when Im done.
Recently I replaced the ignition lock assembly on my 98 GMC Sierra, 5.0L engine. I followed your suggestion of doing the retraining using the 10 minute method. This worked, my truck started. This morning it was back to intermittent start. I took the steering covers off, ohmed between the org/blk wire and the yellow wire -- no ohm reading, tried the other yellow wire -- same results . I traced out all three wires for opens or shorts -- none found, What I found was the connector at the sensor had a bad connection, cleaned up the connector - truck now starts. I'm going to see if it restarts in the morning. Remember to follow the KISS policy ( keep It Simple Stupid ).
when reading the oms, are you reading the ohms of the security box, or the ohs of the resistor pack? i have a 97 chevy what i swapped the steering column with one from a 98. it seems those are split years and may be 2 different systems. i think i used all the wiring from my 97 cut cant remember. i got it to work for a while playing around with resistors and relearning procedures. i let it sit fo a while with the battery dead and now i am in a no start again. oddly, when it wouldn't start the first time, the security light would go out like normal, but when i did get it learned to run, the security light would stay on. i guess i need to figure out what ohm resistance the security box is looking for and match my resistor to that.
I am having so much trouble with my 98 Chevy. A friend of mine took it apon himself to try fixing my key switch and ran into this problem. He bought a 1995 steering column. Which he said wouldn't work. Now do I need to put my steering column 98 back in and do this? Can I try it with the 1995 model column
I have a 98 tahoe 5.7 liter when I turn the key to the on position none if the cluster lights turn on could that be the vehicle isn't reading the key by any chance
I bought a 98 Sierra which came with a 305 that he was having issues with. He put in a 5.7 I'm thinking a 2000 model and I only got one key which was worn slap out. Sometimes spent 30 or so minuets trying to get it to turn. Since then I've purchased three new lock cylinders, a new unit that holds the cylinder and wiring harness to the firewall and still no luck. I tried this again last night with three different new resistors and still no luck. Security light just stays on, you hear the fuel pump working in on position, clicking, all dash lights on 10 on X3 and still nothing. Oreilly's says I should call a locksmith with a computer...I'm spent out.....
I AM GETTING A OHM RATING BEFORE I TURN THE KEY ON , ONCE I TURN THE KEY ON , THE METER READS 0 , WHAT COULD IT BE? THIS IS MY 2ND TIME DOING THIS, FIRST RESISTOR WORKED GREAT FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS, THANKS
It worked!..Like many other GM drivers I've had a nightmare trying to fix this. I know this is an old video but I hope Coal City Garage gets my comment. If you do, can you say how long this fix stayed. How do you get around the eventual changing of battery when it eventually dies??
Do u remember how the security was blinking on this truck? I’m working on a 98 right now stuck in Theft mode and the light blinks only 1 time sometimes.. but light just goes out on me... while trying the 30 minute key learn...
You can actually delete that module by stripping the purple wire that runs to the module, tying into the exposed copper with a wire lead, then ground the wire to the steering column with you fingers at the exact same time you are cranking with the key. Then, take the wire off the column at the same time you stop cranking with the key. This tricks you truck into thinking the module is giving correct reading. If your truck starts, just unplug the module while still running and you then are good to go without it. Then do this ohmn procedure.
@@123456789912ful what if you already did the steps he goes through? Can you do your bypass after it? Figured out after I looked at this my whole module is missing.
You will have to check your system to see what it needs. Or you can use any resistor and go through the 30 minute security relearn procedure to adapt your vehicle to the new resistance
Hey buddy where are you located I sure would like you to work on my truck can you get my truck started again I think I need to bypass that damn system let me tell you what it's doing not getting no fire my son has a computer thing that you can hook up and tell her you're not getting no signal to computer I live in San Antonio I sure would appreciate if you can help me on recommend somebody over here
I bought a 1999 chevy suburban,,, started seeing starting problem as this video discrbes. After about 3mons. of trouble shooting, doing what this video says to do and Other videos of same with different takes on what to do. I did everyone of them. From the factorys re-learning the key to jacking the starting or bypassing the passlock modual. After a serious deep investigation of the symptoms such as, the relearning of ignition key too numorous to count to disconnecting the passlock modual all together. So what did i find as the culprit ? Heres what i found out. On initial startup i observed All electronics because there seemed to be a loss of signal when turning the key switch i noticed my radio wasnt remembering the Time/Date or even the stations i had saved. So i initially thought it was the ignition cylinder/tumbler, the switch in the ignition that sends the power to the ECM/Passlock modual. So steering collum clampack removed i tested for power and resistance in which all seemed fine, but after getting the truck to run, after a few mins or less or even a day or two the truck would run and restart without any problems. But i noticed that when i would mess with my radio the non starting problem would return, every time. So i pulled the radio out and observed that a few wires were improperly connected. All power to ignition and radio go thru the passlock and then to the ecm. So when starting the truck(leaving radio in on possition) the time on the radio would not be remembered nor the stations picked, when i noticed this malfunction then non start problem would occur directly or within a day or two. So i cut the yellow power wire that powers the radio (@ the back of radio and ran a new power wire from the existing fuse box. Since then, i have had no more problems. In short, whomever installed the radio, private owner or factory had crossed some wires whick when turning the ignition on, turning the ignition key to on the radio would see a power spike or a power loss due to improper wireing. So i found out/figgered out what was the cause of My specific problem and have corrected it. So my first thought was the passlock modual wasnt getting signal from key switch, an interuption of power causing the truck not to start. Why was i lossing the signal power ? What was causing the power loss ? For my findings it was because of Improper radio installation. I tried everything, from cutting wires, dissconnecting the passlock altogether, relearning the key to bypassing the security system and they all failed to fix the issue. Now the radio, being damaged electonically, due to poor installation does work somewhat, it will Not hold anything to memory. Now it, the radio has itsown power source and not on the ignition switch, as i've stated. Starting the truck Seems to be working properly as it should. Am confident that my issue has been corrected. 👍 Take the time, do the trouble shooting, observe conditions and resolve the issue. If you need more information/ instruction on how and what. I will do my best to help you out. Good luck !
@@donatinghorsepower5100 Thanks i hope it may help. And as an update on the truck issue,,, havent had any issues since that posting. Thanks again and enjoy the day👍
This is by far the easiest to follow of all these videos i have watched. Its short and sweet and to the point. Not a lot of side chatter to distract those of us ADHD people. I give you 10 out of 10 stars!
After chasing my tail for a week this fixed my Passlock problem. I used a 3k ohm resistor. Thanks!
I highly appreciate this information and video. Customer had their GMC 1500 towed to us due to Passlock issues. What did not help was that nearly all the wires of the Passlock module was cut and then some aftermarket alarm was installed that was also a hack mess. Did this resistor add in, only had a 3.3k resistor and it worked after the three 10 minute cycles. Thank you again.
Great Job. I like to heat shrink and solder everything too. Im doing a similar bypass with the 85 Corvette soon. I would Ohm my key to ID the resister but I dont have the original key. I have a bunch of other stuff to do first before I get back to work on the Vette. I will post a video when Im done.
Simple and well put. Just got my dad's 98 GMC 2500 running again after the key relearn process.
Recently I replaced the ignition lock assembly on my 98 GMC Sierra, 5.0L engine. I followed your suggestion of doing the retraining using the 10 minute method. This worked, my truck started. This morning it was back to intermittent start. I took the steering covers off, ohmed between the org/blk wire and the yellow wire -- no ohm reading, tried the other yellow wire -- same results . I traced out all three wires for opens or shorts -- none found, What I found was the connector at the sensor had a bad connection, cleaned up the connector - truck now starts. I'm going to see if it restarts in the morning.
Remember to follow the KISS policy ( keep It Simple Stupid ).
Thank you very much. Great video and this completely resolved my issue. Thanks again.
So, after installing the resistor and going through the relearn process, can you unplug it from the switch and tuck it out of the way ?
when reading the oms, are you reading the ohms of the security box, or the ohs of the resistor pack? i have a 97 chevy what i swapped the steering column with one from a 98. it seems those are split years and may be 2 different systems. i think i used all the wiring from my 97 cut cant remember. i got it to work for a while playing around with resistors and relearning procedures. i let it sit fo a while with the battery dead and now i am in a no start again. oddly, when it wouldn't start the first time, the security light would go out like normal, but when i did get it learned to run, the security light would stay on. i guess i need to figure out what ohm resistance the security box is looking for and match my resistor to that.
I am having so much trouble with my 98 Chevy. A friend of mine took it apon himself to try fixing my key switch and ran into this problem. He bought a 1995 steering column. Which he said wouldn't work. Now do I need to put my steering column 98 back in and do this? Can I try it with the 1995 model column
I got 1843 on ohms. Am I setting tester properly? Thanks.
Does anyone know if replacing the connector will solve the problem?
I have a 98 tahoe 5.7 liter when I turn the key to the on position none if the cluster lights turn on could that be the vehicle isn't reading the key by any chance
Do you have to relearn the key if a battery problem?
Please could you tell me the resistance value?
Great video! Now I don’t have to ask a tweaker how to start my truck.
Wouldn’t it just work by connecting the wires? What’s the resistor do?
I bought a 98 Sierra which came with a 305 that he was having issues with. He put in a 5.7 I'm thinking a 2000 model and I only got one key which was worn slap out. Sometimes spent 30 or so minuets trying to get it to turn. Since then I've purchased three new lock cylinders, a new unit that holds the cylinder and wiring harness to the firewall and still no luck. I tried this again last night with three different new resistors and still no luck. Security light just stays on, you hear the fuel pump working in on position, clicking, all dash lights on 10 on X3 and still nothing. Oreilly's says I should call a locksmith with a computer...I'm spent out.....
I AM GETTING A OHM RATING BEFORE I TURN THE KEY ON , ONCE I TURN THE KEY ON , THE METER READS 0 , WHAT COULD IT BE? THIS IS MY 2ND TIME DOING THIS, FIRST RESISTOR WORKED GREAT FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS, THANKS
I am also getting a 0 reading on the ohms, anyone ever figure this out
It worked!..Like many other GM drivers I've had a nightmare trying to fix this. I know this is an old video but I hope Coal City Garage gets my comment. If you do, can you say how long this fix stayed. How do you get around the eventual changing of battery when it eventually dies??
Is this standard on all 98 trucks?
So does this do the same thing as a cats delete
I change the steering column on mine but dont have the same colors
Coal city ,IL?
Do u remember how the security was blinking on this truck? I’m working on a 98 right now stuck in Theft mode and the light blinks only 1 time sometimes.. but light just goes out on me... while trying the 30 minute key learn...
Mine is doing the same. It's not continuity blinking.
Did you figure out the issue?
@@markadoss6705 I bypassed it, by soldering resistors In the circuit
Okay I'm doing that today Ty so much,!!!
Will this work if the passlock module under the dash is bad? My security light doesn't shut off after the 10 minute "on" sequence.
You can actually delete that module by stripping the purple wire that runs to the module, tying into the exposed copper with a wire lead, then ground the wire to the steering column with you fingers at the exact same time you are cranking with the key. Then, take the wire off the column at the same time you stop cranking with the key. This tricks you truck into thinking the module is giving correct reading.
If your truck starts, just unplug the module while still running and you then are good to go without it. Then do this ohmn procedure.
@@123456789912ful what if you already did the steps he goes through? Can you do your bypass after it? Figured out after I looked at this my whole module is missing.
😊@@123456789912ful
Will this work if i am having to start my van at the ignition switch?
Im not sure if i understand your question. After doing this you can start your vehicle like normal with the key in ignition switch.
Where are you located
I HAVE TO DO MY TRUCK 1999 CHEVY TAHOE TO BE CONTENUED I REALLY HOPE IT WORKS TY..✌️
Thanks
When the truck is running, just unplug the 3 wire connector. the secrity light will stay on all the time, but the truck will start every time.
Will the process still work if I don’t put a resistor and just go wire to wire?
I really dont know, I doubt it, but it may be worth a try.
hello could you send me the value of the correct resistor, thanks
You will have to check your system to see what it needs. Or you can use any resistor and go through the 30 minute security relearn procedure to adapt your vehicle to the new resistance
I noticed when I checked ohms one he yellow wire up to the switch it has no ohms with the key on. Any ideas
Hey buddy where are you located I sure would like you to work on my truck can you get my truck started again I think I need to bypass that damn system let me tell you what it's doing not getting no fire my son has a computer thing that you can hook up and tell her you're not getting no signal to computer I live in San Antonio I sure would appreciate if you can help me on recommend somebody over here
Hi, Roy did you figure it out I'm having the same problem with my 98 silverado
Well this work on a green 99 Chevrolet Tahoe I need help and all the help you can give me if you could please let me know thanks
Id be lying if i told you I know for sure it will work. That being said, I believe it should.
No only blue and red not green
Mine didn’t give me a reading
I bought a 1999 chevy suburban,,, started seeing starting problem as this video discrbes.
After about 3mons. of trouble shooting, doing what this video says to do and Other videos of same with different takes on what to do.
I did everyone of them.
From the factorys re-learning the key to jacking the starting or bypassing the passlock modual.
After a serious deep investigation of the symptoms such as, the relearning of ignition key too numorous to count to disconnecting the passlock modual all together.
So what did i find as the culprit ?
Heres what i found out.
On initial startup i observed All electronics because there seemed to be a loss of signal when turning the key switch i noticed my radio wasnt remembering the Time/Date or even the stations i had saved.
So i initially thought it was the ignition cylinder/tumbler, the switch in the ignition that sends the power to the ECM/Passlock modual.
So steering collum clampack removed i tested for power and resistance in which all seemed fine, but after getting the truck to run, after a few mins or less or even a day or two the truck would run and restart without any problems.
But i noticed that when i would mess with my radio the non starting problem would return, every time.
So i pulled the radio out and observed that a few wires were improperly connected.
All power to ignition and radio go thru the passlock and then to the ecm. So when starting the truck(leaving radio in on possition) the time on the radio would not be remembered nor the stations picked, when i noticed this malfunction then non start problem would occur directly or within a day or two.
So i cut the yellow power wire that powers the radio (@ the back of radio and ran a new power wire from the existing fuse box.
Since then, i have had no more problems.
In short, whomever installed the radio, private owner or factory had crossed some wires whick when turning the ignition on, turning the ignition key to on the radio would see a power spike or a power loss due to improper wireing.
So i found out/figgered out what was the cause of My specific problem and have corrected it.
So my first thought was the passlock modual wasnt getting signal from key switch, an interuption of power causing the truck not to start.
Why was i lossing the signal power ?
What was causing the power loss ?
For my findings it was because of Improper radio installation.
I tried everything, from cutting wires, dissconnecting the passlock altogether, relearning the key to bypassing the security system and they all failed to fix the issue.
Now the radio, being damaged electonically, due to poor installation does work somewhat, it will Not hold anything to memory.
Now it, the radio has itsown power source and not on the ignition switch, as i've stated.
Starting the truck Seems to be working properly as it should.
Am confident that my issue has been corrected. 👍
Take the time, do the trouble shooting, observe conditions and resolve the issue.
If you need more information/ instruction on how and what.
I will do my best to help you out.
Good luck !
Nice in depth comment in case someone needs to follow this troubleshooting path, thank you
@@donatinghorsepower5100
Thanks i hope it may help.
And as an update on the truck issue,,, havent had any issues since that posting.
Thanks again and enjoy the day👍
I believe I am having the same exact issue as you did after reading your comment. I'll dig into my radio. Thank you.