Thanks. Full disclosure I still have lots to learn so my videos definitely should be the go to for the best sharpening advice. That being said there’s many ways to get a result so don’t be afraid to experiment. As some have pointed out I sharpened a little too low an angle. It means nothing other than I may have made knife edge a little fragile. Time will tell. Point is chip is out now and it’s insanely sharp on the cutting board which is where it counts.
Franco, you need to practice more. Having such a huge high end knive collection does not correspond with such a poor technique. You are too low in the angle, you need to keep the angle stable. For stroping avoid edge leading passes, because you can cut into the leather. Apply less paste (much less) and let it dry before stroping…
I can and am always improving and I mention myself my technique is amateur at best. That being said my technique isn’t poor, jsut needs work. The quality of knives I own doesn’t make me a master anything, that comes with time and practice. If we only showed the ‘perfect’ cut ‘perfect’ sharpening in videos none of it would be approachable. I’m not afraid to demonstrate where I am at with my skill and my knives always perform extremely well on the board which is where it counts most. Didn’t know that about stropping compound as that’s not what I’ve been told, but I’ll try next time to let it dry a bit. Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah someone had a good eye haha! The differential grit sharpening definitely has its benefits. I suspect it isn't the right choice for every blade so I can't comment when and where it works. I CAN tell you I tried it on the Fujiwara Denka in this video and it was absolutely amazing. I imagine it works best on steels that are more tough though. I have a spreadsheet with all modifications I've done on a knife so it helps me keep track of what works and what doesn't. Thanks for watching!
Hey Jeff. I do my best. Sometimes that means I still make mistakes. Which is a fault of simply existing. But when that happens so long as someone approaches me kindly, then rather than taking the whole video off which would be a shame I pin a comment with the corrections necessary or put it in the video description. Or both.
Dude I dropped my Blue #1 KU Tanaka tip first onto the floor a few months back and snapped off the tip, actually preferred the tip angle after the repair removing material just from the spine then rounding and polishing it.
Good video...!! As for finishing with different grits ...it's ok .. results are fun and all..I stopped doing that because with restaurant kitchen use they're just too difficult to maintain... And honestly...go for the low grits to start... especially when trying to repair a chip...the amount of metal saved will be negligible, it will be faster and less wear on the 1k stone. The less time spent sharpening usually the better the results... you're able to maintain the sharpening angle more consistently and not wobble around... IMO best to fully remove the chip/damage on low grits before trying to refine... better yet spend time on knife handling techniques and you won't have chips to fix...😁 What approx angle are you sharpening at...it looks like you're almost going for a zero grind...if you do continue to have chipping issues consider either a wider angle or micro bevels... Take care
Hi Jeff. Thanks for your comment. The correct response is I sharpened at too low an angle :). I would typically have sharpened at a higher angle but think I lost focus with the camera rolling. I am happy I did have the camera rolling though, because especially with trying to get the camera just about level to the stone, gives a really clear picture of where I can improve. As I concluded and you mentioned, next time even though this was a tiny chip, I'll definitely be starting at a lower grit, but that was the whole idea behind using the 1000, to see how little or much effort would be required just using this one stone, so lesson learned through experience now rather than just assuming that's the right choice. This knife has only chipped twice in 3 years so it's not like my knives chip often. Agreed about micro bevels being great for edge stability. Typically this knife gets the differential grit sharpening treatment as is one of the reasons it is my favourite knife, best performance out of that method.
Frankie, a couple of recommendations. I would recommend getting a sharpening pond or a sink bridge. It will give your sharpening more stability. Second, I wouldn’t use a nagura unless it’s the same grit as the stone. I would use a rust eraser instead. You really don’t want to infect your stone with a different grit.
Hey AJ. Hadn’t ever heard that a nagura stone even had grit as I’ve never seen one with a grit number. So you’d get one nagura per grit? Yeah a sink bridge might be nice. My set up feels stable but I’m sure a sink bridge could be nice. I’ll look into it. Definitely don’t was a sink bridge though. Not into that feel.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy the "nagura" you have there isn't actually a nagura. It's strictly a cleaner stone of about 600 grit. Fantastic for refreshing your stones but they need to be rinsed off thoroughly after cleaning. If you want actual naguras to raise a slurry, Naniwa makes them in a variety of grits up to 12k. They are inexpensive.
Thanks David I’ll have a look. Funny sometimes how things are. It was sold to me as a nagura so I never looked into it, just trusted the information. I’ll look at Naniwa nagura. I see what you mean. Rinse the whetstone after I used my cleaning stone? I didn’t because I thought I was using a nagura as I’d notice it was helping declog and create a slurry even if on 1000 the slurry isn’t strong.
I’m with you, in that my Denka 240 gyuto would be the one if I could only keep one of my knives. I will often sharpen at 800/8000 grit if it is a VG10 knife, but I have yet tried it on a carbon steel knife.
@@Robinson.69 Well, he isn't just stamping out the same knife over and over like a lot of other stuff out there. Some people love to complain about the fit and finish on TF knives, but they're missing the whole point imo. It's already a very man-hour intensive produce the way it's made, and it's made to be a tool, but if they did go ahead and put in the additional man hours to bring these up to a high degree of fit and finish they would be running $1000+ a pop for a 210 gyoto.
Hi Franki , I'm no expert and don't just stay on my advice but I think that's a lot of compound on the strop . You need a very very thin layer . Take a bit of compound ( the size of an M&M ) and scrape it with an old unused bank card . Try to scrape it as thin as possible . Then if you don't cover all the strop add some more . When it becomes black you can remove it with an eraser . Take care and yes lovely knife .
Hi, oh I'm no expert at all so I welcome advice and you are absolutely right I had waaaay too much compound. The issue is I like to keep the footage raw, to show I make mistakes, but should then perhaps add a caption mentioning don't put as much compound as I did. I'll try to be more careful next time. Thanks for letting me know.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy and that's what I like about it . I try different compounds on different leathers and I see the difference . Although not all knives take it equally . Like the green compound I find it excellent for straight razors .
@@callofdutyplaysmuscat6616 Personal preference. As far as compounds for stropping, I suggest half micron CBN on balsa wood followed up with .25 or .1 on some leather. The first time you try stropping on wood, with any compounds, much less half micron CBN you will wonder why you didn't think of it sooner. Nothing refines the edge better than this. I have a 16k glass stone I strop with, it makes a nice polish very quickly but leaves a much rougher edge than stroping on the balsa. That's fine if you want some tooth even at such a high grit, but the balsa is something else.
Q: I am considering a Fujiwara knife but I am kind of worried it’s too delicate. How did you get that chip? Just regular use or did you mess up? I heard that polishing the edge helps to prevent micro chipping.. not sure though
Hi Benjamin. Great question. This Denka in particular, has chipped twice in 3 years at the exact same spot, so I reckon potentially a small imperfection there from heat treat or quenching, not sure which would be responsible. I use my knives delicately, on nice end grain cutting boards. That being said, I know my walnut end grain is a little on the 'hard' side. Both Fujiwara's Maboroshi and Denka series can be chippy for different reasons. The Maboroshi line because Shiro 1 can be a chippy steel and the Denka line because of how high a HRC he gets the steel to. That being said, don't look at my sharpening for expert advice as I'm still learning. If you put a micro bevel on the edge or sharpen at a wider angle, you'll be fine for everyday use. Both aren't blades that can take abuse, but if you treat them well, sure chipping might occur here and there but it isn't something that should be occurring often. I have often seen professional chefs use both of these in the professional kitchen setting which means they can definitely be made to be more resilient. I can't speak to the polishing the edge to make it less chippy as I haven't done that. Hope this helps a little.
Happy it helped. I don’t understand why CZcams keeps deleting replies. I was alerted of one of your replies “God I’m so hyped to” and when I click to see the whole message it says it doesn’t exist.
Personally speaking, a chip like that (one smaller or even larger), will eventually “self remedy” from simply the normal course of sharpening, and you obtain the added benefit of not losing ALL of that geometry on the edge profile by removing it aggressively, say rather than just over time with “normal” sharpening. Unless that chip, which in NO WAY would be affecting your cutting experience and /or outcome, I would recommend NOT to aggressively/purposefully repair the chip, and simply allow it to heremoved over time, with “typical sharpening.” “Be like water - flow,” Bruce Lee once said in paraphrase…the same lives true for here. Now if the tip and /or heel was chipped, that’s a different story, but just because you CAN do something, doesn’t mean that you SHOULD do it! Again, I use to remove every single small chip on my blade edge, until I realized there was ZERO NEED to do so - having a small chip will NOT increase your chances of that chip “growing larger,” say by not addressing it. So simply allow that chip to slowly be removed, over the course of your “typical/normal” sharpening course, otherwise you are removing so much more of the blade-edge than is needed, decreasing the thickness and ultimately the overall life of your blade.
I’ve heard of this life of your blade argument, but the reality is, just like a lot of food release talk, it’s mainly more textbook than real life practical. I speak from experience with this blade in particular, 100% using a knife with a chip in it can lead to it expanding and it has surely been the case with this knife. When you have a chip and you slice food, you don’t avoid the chip, you simply continue to slide the cutting edge across the surface. Yes the hollow in the chip isn’t in contact with the cutting board, but the edges are and it leads to more tearing and rounding of the cutting edge. If I see a chip, it’s irresponsible to not treat it. I don’t go looking for them with a magnifying glass that being said. On the note of shortening the life of the blade. If these handmade works of art that cost hundreds of dollars only lasted 30 sharpenings, I wouldn’t buy them. But that’s not the case. The knives we buy will last us home cooks a lifetime, literally. As the core steel is sharpened and exposed after time, a proper thinning will be necessary to help expose the right amount and not have the cladding reduce your cutting surface. But worrying about cutting the life short of a knife because I sharpened a chip is worrying for nothing. Lastly, what severely impacts the life of a knife are large chips. Where you remove the equivalent of the chip height on the knife. In my experience, those happen when a) utilizing the knife improperly or b) continue using a knife with a chip until the chip ‘grows’. I really do appreciate your feedback. It’s stuff like this that helps educate people. Being challenged and having a conversation so thank you.
Getting that one tiny and inconsequential chip removed would require the removal of steel from the whole knife edge. Every time steel is removed from the edge, the knife edge becomes thicker (eventually requiring thinning), and that thicker edge will negatively affect the cutting performance far more than one micro chip ever will. But, I totally get why you wanted the tiny chip removed. I am like that too. I am a knife nut and want my knife edges to be perfect at all times. Even a couple of tiny chips would gnaw at me to the point of taking out a sharpening stone to get the couple of chips removed even though it makes no sense at all.
I agree with everything you said. But I’m one of those people if I see it and don’t agree with it, I need to fix it so to speak. This knife will last me the entirety of my life, so I’ve never been worried at shortening the life of my knife. I don’t sharpen any of my knives often as lots of them have spectacular edge retention and because I use many different knives. So when a little chip happens, the steel is being removed along the whole edge as you pointed out but also as small as the chip itself. No scenario is optimal, in case it’s scenario three, not chipping my knife 😂 more important still is knowing the right method to fixing a small chip so that one lengthens the amount of time before thinning is needed. For this knife here you’ll notice how close to flat I sharpened it which helps minimize it getting thicker behind the edge. I also added a micro bevel on it later to add edge resiliency. Worst case scenario is by not fixing the chip it grows in size and then I need to remove more steel to fix. So I’d rather air on the side of caution for these prized babies. I really do appreciate your comment. It’s conversations like this that keep the community bountiful.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy Good point about a chip growing in size if not fixed. Propagation of cracks from an initiation point such as a tiny chip is a valid concern. Preventing crack propagation is particularly important when the knife has a mono-steel construction with uniform heat treatment. It's slightly less important when it has a san mai construction.
I had to buy ships by the end of your video 🤣 nice video I’ll try this on my spork 👍🏼
Good video ! Haha
Too long? The video haha
Thx for this. I also need to learn how to sharpen and this is a good intro for sure. Nicely done, as usual :-)
Thanks. Full disclosure I still have lots to learn so my videos definitely should be the go to for the best sharpening advice. That being said there’s many ways to get a result so don’t be afraid to experiment. As some have pointed out I sharpened a little too low an angle. It means nothing other than I may have made knife edge a little fragile. Time will tell. Point is chip is out now and it’s insanely sharp on the cutting board which is where it counts.
Franco, you need to practice more. Having such a huge high end knive collection does not correspond with such a poor technique.
You are too low in the angle, you need to keep the angle stable. For stroping avoid edge leading passes, because you can cut into the leather. Apply less paste (much less) and let it dry before stroping…
I can and am always improving and I mention myself my technique is amateur at best. That being said my technique isn’t poor, jsut needs work. The quality of knives I own doesn’t make me a master anything, that comes with time and practice. If we only showed the ‘perfect’ cut ‘perfect’ sharpening in videos none of it would be approachable. I’m not afraid to demonstrate where I am at with my skill and my knives always perform extremely well on the board which is where it counts most. Didn’t know that about stropping compound as that’s not what I’ve been told, but I’ll try next time to let it dry a bit. Thanks for the feedback.
Shout-out to the river saya in the background 😍
I need to try Shibatas sharpening advice 🤔
Yeah someone had a good eye haha! The differential grit sharpening definitely has its benefits. I suspect it isn't the right choice for every blade so I can't comment when and where it works. I CAN tell you I tried it on the Fujiwara Denka in this video and it was absolutely amazing. I imagine it works best on steels that are more tough though. I have a spreadsheet with all modifications I've done on a knife so it helps me keep track of what works and what doesn't. Thanks for watching!
@@KitchenKnifeGuy I'll definitely look more into that 👍
Good stuff. Thanks for actually caring about being accurate with the info you put out.
Hey Jeff. I do my best. Sometimes that means I still make mistakes. Which is a fault of simply existing. But when that happens so long as someone approaches me kindly, then rather than taking the whole video off which would be a shame I pin a comment with the corrections necessary or put it in the video description. Or both.
Dude I dropped my Blue #1 KU Tanaka tip first onto the floor a few months back and snapped off the tip, actually preferred the tip angle after the repair removing material just from the spine then rounding and polishing it.
Saaaame here with my Maboroshi santoku. Tip became more aggressive after my tip chip.
Good video...!!
As for finishing with different grits ...it's ok .. results are fun and all..I stopped doing that because with restaurant kitchen use they're just too difficult to maintain...
And honestly...go for the low grits to start... especially when trying to repair a chip...the amount of metal saved will be negligible, it will be faster and less wear on the 1k stone. The less time spent sharpening usually the better the results... you're able to maintain the sharpening angle more consistently and not wobble around...
IMO best to fully remove the chip/damage on low grits before trying to refine... better yet spend time on knife handling techniques and you won't have chips to fix...😁
What approx angle are you sharpening at...it looks like you're almost going for a zero grind...if you do continue to have chipping issues consider either a wider angle or micro bevels...
Take care
Hi Jeff. Thanks for your comment.
The correct response is I sharpened at too low an angle :). I would typically have sharpened at a higher angle but think I lost focus with the camera rolling. I am happy I did have the camera rolling though, because especially with trying to get the camera just about level to the stone, gives a really clear picture of where I can improve.
As I concluded and you mentioned, next time even though this was a tiny chip, I'll definitely be starting at a lower grit, but that was the whole idea behind using the 1000, to see how little or much effort would be required just using this one stone, so lesson learned through experience now rather than just assuming that's the right choice. This knife has only chipped twice in 3 years so it's not like my knives chip often. Agreed about micro bevels being great for edge stability.
Typically this knife gets the differential grit sharpening treatment as is one of the reasons it is my favourite knife, best performance out of that method.
Frankie, a couple of recommendations. I would recommend getting a sharpening pond or a sink bridge. It will give your sharpening more stability. Second, I wouldn’t use a nagura unless it’s the same grit as the stone. I would use a rust eraser instead. You really don’t want to infect your stone with a different grit.
Hey AJ. Hadn’t ever heard that a nagura stone even had grit as I’ve never seen one with a grit number. So you’d get one nagura per grit? Yeah a sink bridge might be nice. My set up feels stable but I’m sure a sink bridge could be nice. I’ll look into it. Definitely don’t was a sink bridge though. Not into that feel.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy the "nagura" you have there isn't actually a nagura. It's strictly a cleaner stone of about 600 grit. Fantastic for refreshing your stones but they need to be rinsed off thoroughly after cleaning. If you want actual naguras to raise a slurry, Naniwa makes them in a variety of grits up to 12k. They are inexpensive.
Thanks David I’ll have a look. Funny sometimes how things are. It was sold to me as a nagura so I never looked into it, just trusted the information. I’ll look at Naniwa nagura. I see what you mean. Rinse the whetstone after I used my cleaning stone? I didn’t because I thought I was using a nagura as I’d notice it was helping declog and create a slurry even if on 1000 the slurry isn’t strong.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy where did you purchase the stropping compound?
Came with the strop from Nordquist
I’m with you, in that my Denka 240 gyuto would be the one if I could only keep one of my knives.
I will often sharpen at 800/8000 grit if it is a VG10 knife, but I have yet tried it on a carbon steel knife.
My Denka likes a 6000 edge I put on it once. You should try. Though I had done the differential grit sharpening on it.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy Hey Franco, is the 210mm Gyuto Denka also 55mm high from heel to spine? Thanks.
Hey Robinson. My 210 Denka is 50mm high measured at heel. instagram.com/p/CS-fuloLFo6/?
@@KitchenKnifeGuy Thanks. I already saw Denka 210 with 5.3mm in different stores )).
I see Mr. Teruyasu is a moody knifemaker ))
@@Robinson.69 Well, he isn't just stamping out the same knife over and over like a lot of other stuff out there. Some people love to complain about the fit and finish on TF knives, but they're missing the whole point imo. It's already a very man-hour intensive produce the way it's made, and it's made to be a tool, but if they did go ahead and put in the additional man hours to bring these up to a high degree of fit and finish they would be running $1000+ a pop for a 210 gyoto.
Hi Franki , I'm no expert and don't just stay on my advice but I think that's a lot of compound on the strop . You need a very very thin layer . Take a bit of compound ( the size of an M&M ) and scrape it with an old unused bank card . Try to scrape it as thin as possible . Then if you don't cover all the strop add some more . When it becomes black you can remove it with an eraser . Take care and yes lovely knife .
Hi, oh I'm no expert at all so I welcome advice and you are absolutely right I had waaaay too much compound. The issue is I like to keep the footage raw, to show I make mistakes, but should then perhaps add a caption mentioning don't put as much compound as I did. I'll try to be more careful next time. Thanks for letting me know.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy and that's what I like about it . I try different compounds on different leathers and I see the difference . Although not all knives take it equally . Like the green compound I find it excellent for straight razors .
@@callofdutyplaysmuscat6616 Personal preference. As far as compounds for stropping, I suggest half micron CBN on balsa wood followed up with .25 or .1 on some leather. The first time you try stropping on wood, with any compounds, much less half micron CBN you will wonder why you didn't think of it sooner. Nothing refines the edge better than this. I have a 16k glass stone I strop with, it makes a nice polish very quickly but leaves a much rougher edge than stroping on the balsa. That's fine if you want some tooth even at such a high grit, but the balsa is something else.
You make sharpening seem way more approachable. Thank you!
That's what I try to do, thanks for noticing :)
Q: I am considering a Fujiwara knife but I am kind of worried it’s too delicate. How did you get that chip? Just regular use or did you mess up?
I heard that polishing the edge helps to prevent micro chipping.. not sure though
Hi Benjamin. Great question.
This Denka in particular, has chipped twice in 3 years at the exact same spot, so I reckon potentially a small imperfection there from heat treat or quenching, not sure which would be responsible. I use my knives delicately, on nice end grain cutting boards. That being said, I know my walnut end grain is a little on the 'hard' side.
Both Fujiwara's Maboroshi and Denka series can be chippy for different reasons. The Maboroshi line because Shiro 1 can be a chippy steel and the Denka line because of how high a HRC he gets the steel to.
That being said, don't look at my sharpening for expert advice as I'm still learning. If you put a micro bevel on the edge or sharpen at a wider angle, you'll be fine for everyday use. Both aren't blades that can take abuse, but if you treat them well, sure chipping might occur here and there but it isn't something that should be occurring often. I have often seen professional chefs use both of these in the professional kitchen setting which means they can definitely be made to be more resilient. I can't speak to the polishing the edge to make it less chippy as I haven't done that.
Hope this helps a little.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy thanks 🙏🏼 very helpful
Happy it helped. I don’t understand why CZcams keeps deleting replies. I was alerted of one of your replies “God I’m so hyped to” and when I click to see the whole message it says it doesn’t exist.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy that was “so hyped for the FT anyway”. I guess there is just really something about them isn’t there.
Personally speaking, a chip like that (one smaller or even larger), will eventually “self remedy” from simply the normal course of sharpening, and you obtain the added benefit of not losing ALL of that geometry on the edge profile by removing it aggressively, say rather than just over time with “normal” sharpening.
Unless that chip, which in NO WAY would be affecting your cutting experience and /or outcome, I would recommend NOT to aggressively/purposefully repair the chip, and simply allow it to heremoved over time, with “typical sharpening.”
“Be like water - flow,” Bruce Lee once said in paraphrase…the same lives true for here.
Now if the tip and /or heel was chipped, that’s a different story, but just because you CAN do something, doesn’t mean that you SHOULD do it!
Again, I use to remove every single small chip on my blade edge, until I realized there was ZERO NEED to do so - having a small chip will NOT increase your chances of that chip “growing larger,” say by not addressing it. So simply allow that chip to slowly be removed, over the course of your “typical/normal” sharpening course, otherwise you are removing so much more of the blade-edge than is needed, decreasing the thickness and ultimately the overall life of your blade.
I’ve heard of this life of your blade argument, but the reality is, just like a lot of food release talk, it’s mainly more textbook than real life practical. I speak from experience with this blade in particular, 100% using a knife with a chip in it can lead to it expanding and it has surely been the case with this knife.
When you have a chip and you slice food, you don’t avoid the chip, you simply continue to slide the cutting edge across the surface. Yes the hollow in the chip isn’t in contact with the cutting board, but the edges are and it leads to more tearing and rounding of the cutting edge.
If I see a chip, it’s irresponsible to not treat it. I don’t go looking for them with a magnifying glass that being said.
On the note of shortening the life of the blade. If these handmade works of art that cost hundreds of dollars only lasted 30 sharpenings, I wouldn’t buy them. But that’s not the case. The knives we buy will last us home cooks a lifetime, literally. As the core steel is sharpened and exposed after time, a proper thinning will be necessary to help expose the right amount and not have the cladding reduce your cutting surface. But worrying about cutting the life short of a knife because I sharpened a chip is worrying for nothing.
Lastly, what severely impacts the life of a knife are large chips. Where you remove the equivalent of the chip height on the knife. In my experience, those happen when a) utilizing the knife improperly or b) continue using a knife with a chip until the chip ‘grows’.
I really do appreciate your feedback. It’s stuff like this that helps educate people. Being challenged and having a conversation so thank you.
Getting that one tiny and inconsequential chip removed would require the removal of steel from the whole knife edge. Every time steel is removed from the edge, the knife edge becomes thicker (eventually requiring thinning), and that thicker edge will negatively affect the cutting performance far more than one micro chip ever will. But, I totally get why you wanted the tiny chip removed. I am like that too. I am a knife nut and want my knife edges to be perfect at all times. Even a couple of tiny chips would gnaw at me to the point of taking out a sharpening stone to get the couple of chips removed even though it makes no sense at all.
I agree with everything you said. But I’m one of those people if I see it and don’t agree with it, I need to fix it so to speak. This knife will last me the entirety of my life, so I’ve never been worried at shortening the life of my knife. I don’t sharpen any of my knives often as lots of them have spectacular edge retention and because I use many different knives. So when a little chip happens, the steel is being removed along the whole edge as you pointed out but also as small as the chip itself.
No scenario is optimal, in case it’s scenario three, not chipping my knife 😂 more important still is knowing the right method to fixing a small chip so that one lengthens the amount of time before thinning is needed. For this knife here you’ll notice how close to flat I sharpened it which helps minimize it getting thicker behind the edge. I also added a micro bevel on it later to add edge resiliency.
Worst case scenario is by not fixing the chip it grows in size and then I need to remove more steel to fix. So I’d rather air on the side of caution for these prized babies. I really do appreciate your comment. It’s conversations like this that keep the community bountiful.
@@KitchenKnifeGuy Good point about a chip growing in size if not fixed. Propagation of cracks from an initiation point such as a tiny chip is a valid concern. Preventing crack propagation is particularly important when the knife has a mono-steel construction with uniform heat treatment. It's slightly less important when it has a san mai construction.
May I ask where you had the custom handle done? I am awaiting shipment of this exact knife and am looking to have it rehandled
Unfortunately by a guy who doesn’t do customs anymore. Where are you located?
@@KitchenKnifeGuy North East USA
You have a few options near your neck of the woods. Joe Bone, Ben’s Bites, Porter Customs to name a few
@@KitchenKnifeGuy Have a few from jo bone, ill take a look at the other 2. Thanks!
What knife stand is that in the back?
It’s one I bought from a Quebec wood worker. Unfortunately I don’t see them being sold anymore.