Segmented Turning - Grain Orientation Options
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- One of the options available in segmented turning is the orientation of the wood grain to optimize both visual impact and ease of turning. In this video I show how to keep that in mind when assembling your cut segments.
Just spotted this video and I'm glad I did. Quite an eye opener for something so obvious. Amazing what is staring you in the face, thank you.
Thanks so much for the insight and information - keep 'em comin'
Dennis ... Very good information - Thanks!
Thank you for reminding us of this important fact.
Alan Stratton
What an excellent tip. It caused an "ah ha" moment. Thank you.
This is one of those slap your forehead ideas. I'll try this on my next bowl. Thanks for another great video.
Man that's brilliant, never done any segmented turning but I want to try it and that was a really nice tip , didn't even think about that when you first layed out the pieces.
thank you for another great video
Thanks for input I had one ring that didn't turn out as well as I liked ran through planner only removed few 1000 at a time no tear outs no catches 😂 Than god worked out great but time consuming Thanks so much for your videos
I have cut those triangles and I am going to stack the rings up to a nice pot,wish me luck.
I like learning, thanks
Great informative video , Thank you for sharing. How do you calculate the size of the 45 degree pieces Please. I would like to try this.
Are there a video of you turning the bowl, I would really like to see you turning it? I want to see what it looks like. Thank you.
very good idea
I like that. Thanks
Great teaching. It seems that gluing it with a Bessie strap clamp will work. Is that so?
I've used the strap clamp and have found that it works great provided you don't try to clamp all 8 loose pieces at once. I glue up 4 groups of two pieces first, then glue two of those into a half section. Then I'll use the strap clamp to glue that last two groups to the half section. I use my gluing board method for the first steps.
SegmentedTurner Thanks!
Very good video. Can the 45 deg cuts be small enough to turn a 3 1/4 OD a 2 3/4 ID without some much wasted wood as with the 22 1/2 deg cuts?
Cutting 22 1/2 degree angles on each side is the same as cutting 45 degrees on one side. Either way you get 8 segments. This layup gives a different visual result because the straight edges between the segments don't aim towards the center. This gives the appearance of a turbine wheel effect. It doesn't significantly effect the amount of waste though.
Pretty neat, I am wondering one thing though, when you turn the other segment you have already glued up, the one on the left, how is the inside species seen? Do you cut all the way through it? Wouldn't you lose all of the outer stock? Perhaps I need to just watch the next movie.
+Marc Lewis When I turned the bowl the sides are angled out. That lets me cut into the outer layer near the top and as the angle proceeds down to the bottom on the inside the inner wall will taper inwards leaving the outer layer and then cutting the inner layer. In this way both layers and the veneer between them are seen when you look at the inside of the bowl.
Olá.trabalho pretty much could you tell me the sizes of woods vccortou grussura and width would be grateful thanks.
I don't own a drum sander is it possible to run the sections of rings through my planner to get one tried flat surface? I remember shop class we did that with or chess boards thanks for the post inspired Me to try it out I have a pet urn to turn for a friend
I would really have a concern about trying to feed one of the assembled rings through a conventional planer. Even one with a spiral cutter head could be a problem. For starters you're trying to cut all end grain. Also, considering the hole in the middle you'll get massive tear-out on the inner edges of the leading side and outer edges of the trailing side. You'd certainly want the diameter to be at least 1 1/2 times the distance between the in-feed and out-feed rollers on the planer to be sure you have at least one roller on the piece at all points of the travel across the knives. Finally the snipe that's common with planers will have to be cleaned up. In general I'd strongly advise against using a planer. I would sand one side smooth on a belt sander, mount that surface on a faceplate and then turn the other surface true on the lathe. That's how I do it.