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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- Bullseye glass used: robin egg blue, black, white, transparent turquoise and elephant gray
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Stainless steel mold and fiber liner from Bonny Doon Glass: bonnydoonfused...
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Full fuse firing schedule:
300-1100-60
50-1225-60
375-1460-30
9999-900-90
100-600-0
Slump:
150-1200-5
9999-900-90
100-600-0
#fusedglass #fusing #glassfusing #glass #kiln #kilnformedglass #murrini #millefiori #glassartist #glassart #fyp #howto #bullseyeglass #craft #crafts #flatlap #lapidary #slantcabber #coldworking
Turned out beautiful. Just found your channel when I watched a 2 year old video where you were not having a good day with some Steel Blue. Thank you for posting that because the “mistakes” are just as educational. Looking forward to watching more videos.
Beautiful. Love the lines between strips of robin egg, n clear n op contrast.
Wow!! This is really gorgeous! And the matching hearts are fantastic! Good job!
Thanks for another great video. Love the color choices and mix of opal and transparent glass
Gorgeous color combo. Love your cutting set up.
❤
gorgeous! I need to do some strip cut pieces. I love watching your videos. I feel like I know you ;) I have a different brand/not slanted lap grinder and did the brush modification and it was a true game changer. Ok, I didn't do it but my husband did. He soldered the brush together and I can take it out and put the original frame in (but why would I want to?) Thank you for that priceless tip! Thanks for constantly inspiring me!
Great color combination and it did turn out so nicely. BTW, I have used one of your full fuse schedules with the long hold, and let me tell you, my pieces come out so beautifully! I've only had this kiln for about 5 months and it is bigger than my other one, but it tends to run about 10-15 degrees on the hot side. Your schedule with a slow ramp and long hold with my process temp adjustments works really well. I wanted to thank you for that! ❣
So great to hear!
Hi Jamaison, when in Portland where Bullseye’s mothership is located, book a tour to see the manufacturing process. It is very informative.
Carol
Beautiful!
Nice!
Love this platter,where do you purchase your moulds please.
Oh goodness… from all over. From a local glass shop that sells molds from Bullseye, from Slumpy’s, from Creative Paradise, from Colors for Earth, etc… so many mold manufacturers and retailers
Was the plate covered in clear before firing as well? Or does it just come out that shiny and glossy after firing for a good length of time anyway?
Nope, not covered in clear. Just clean glass well to help avoid devitrification and fire to a full fuse!
@@JamaisonSchuler Thanks, I am brand new to this type of thing but I have an idea for a sculpture and It will require doing this. I have a kiln, It just needs new heating controls, so I can do the firing. Where do you, aside from you, reccommend I look to learn glass fusing?
@@hepburn118 oh gosh… so many good resources out there. There are several really good Facebook groups for fusing, just do a search and join those. Follow along in the conversations and learn that way. One group, Lunch with a Glass Artist, holds FREE Saturday Zoom calls EACH WEEK and each session is a wealth of good info: m.facebook.com/groups/207121223918071/?ref=share. Bullseye glass has a ton of free content and resources on their site, as do sites such as fusedglass.org and Glass with a Past. And there are lots of good eBooks out there, but this one is a MUST OWN (and MUST read… don’t buy it and not read it): www.leatherbarrowglass.com/purchase/firing-schedules-for-kilnformed-glass
I have used a heating pad to warm up my glass
Could it be the Robins Egg creating a reaction with itself? I'm a 96 COE user - have experienced this when using Vanilla Cream from Oceanside.
Have you ever tried to slump a piece that was a little too thick, say 7mm or 8mm? If so did it give you any problems? Or is it absolutely manditory that you first re-fire the piece to allow it to thin to 6mm?
I’ve slumped thicker pieces no problem - just want to consider being slower on your ramp up. I am sometimes very conservative, going just 125 or 150° per hour up on thicker pieces
What do you use to keep the glass from sticking to the kiln paper?
Killing paper is a separate or itself, so you don’t technically need anything, specifically underneath. With the fiber paper that’s on the sides, I often spray that with ZYP to just try to help it release.
@@JamaisonSchuler so, for the bottom do you recommend a brand and how many uses do you get out it? Thanks
@@mikewestmoreland6647 I almost exclusively use Papyros (which happens to be very hard to find right now - supply chain issues) and can often get 2-4+ firings on it.
WhT. Old did you use for the slump? I really like the shape!
Just a rectangular slumper from Bullseye, similar to this: www.artglasssupplies.com/bullseye-glass-mold-8924-rectangular-slumper
I have a question, can glass be cut out into a pattern, similar to a stained glass. Just an image and be melted together? Obviously I know nothing about this skill you have…anyone that answers, please be kind in your response. I have no knowledge of this and am just curious
Sure it can! I have made lots of projects like that!
A tool called a ring saw can be used to cut almost any shape. Glass wants to break in a line, so deep curves or angels need special techniques. Thanks for asking question, as we all learn from them. And thanks to Jamaison for sharing so much of his work!
Simply beautiful. What was that machine you used to slice the edges off neatly, the one with the brush? Looks like something I could definitely use.😏😊🐨🦘
I’ve done a few videos about it… here’s one:
Improving My Hi-Tech Diamond Slant Cabber Brush Modification
czcams.com/video/ktNRAgUwcTs/video.html