у нас методика другая, втулка ставится с натягом в 1 сотку, после чего наружные кромки развальцовываются, внутренний диаметр достигается разверткой, либо на специальном станке. сажать втулку на фиксатор в данном узле довольно спорное решение.
I have rebushed 2 Honda XR 600, they are steel on steel, no bronze bush.Bored little end and fitted bronze bushes, no interference fit and used high temperature Loctite, no problems, engineering in a can!
да не будет скорее всего, он при 112 уже становится пластичный.я так подозреваю он не делал посадку в натяг потому что нет у его расточного станка чтобы потом подогнать под палец
When I first saw Paul do this, I thought I bet he gets some tasty comments. English isn’t Paul’s native language, and I saw “bronze” in the clip and thought hmmm, no Colisbro or Trojan (brand names), and before this and pressing out the bush, and later using Locite to retain it. For all you naysayers, it can work, it just depends on the loads, lubrication & materials, as I seen in far older engines, floating “bronze” bushes in connecting rods with much heavier pistons in car engines that survive a lot longer than most motorcycles with like for like roller bearing crankshafts, and others with no bushes in connecting rods (steel on steel) that only have low flow oil pumps. I do have a Delapena honing machine, so I could ream out my connecting rods, and do an interference fit, but in all fairness it’s horses for courses, and I can see why Paul does it this way, as he maintains concentricity and running clearance this way. My only observation is in more heavily loaded used connecting rods the “eyes” or holes can become oval, and it is usually best practice to hone this round again, but if you are measuring with a good quality bore micrometer, you can spot if this is necessary, and tbh I saw Paul using one. 👍
Zaujimala by ma zivotnost ? Ja by som to dal určite s presahom a potom vystružnikom. Pravdupovediac takto som to este nikdy nevidel urobit. Ale ak to vydrzi tak klobuk dolu davam 👌.
it should have been a press fit as the hole in the bushing and the hole in the rod MUST align or no oil will reach the pin. this is done with an interferance fit. you heat the rod end to 350*f and grease and freeze the bushing to -20 to -35*f. you pres in via a press and then you can use a end mill to cut the final oiling hole.this ensures the port does not move. but with that, you should have cleaned up the rod end hole before measuring. using some scrotch bright in a drill and soime wd40 would have been perfect for this job.
Absolutely....Peter the 80 year magician done one for me years ago when I was still in UK on my Tenere....the bronze retains oil or grease if I remember right....i should have made the time to learn more from him..
@@martinfriedrich2617 I'm not a machinist but the material is too soft for this application and the glue will not hold under temperature. You need a harder material for this application machined slightly bigger than the hole, it must be press fitted, then dornated and finally reamed to final size
this video reminds me of my gang bought a franny barnet the big end had shot so we made brass bush for the big end it worked ok we had a lot ridding out of it and also done the same thing on my MZts 125 that were ok as well
Well we all know why it failed -- lol. You did a good job on the machining but I doubt it will last. The bushing will spin when the engine gets hot and then the hole for oiling won't line up and it will all fail. Also bushings need an oil groove for over all oiling. The pin will gall up on that bushing with out it. A rod end should have a needle bearing not a bushing. Just my opinions.
Your opinion has nothing to back it up? How would a crf 450 for example benifit from a needle bearing on wrist pin?? Honda engineers are eagerly awaiting your answer.
@@loopeyshooter503 Actually you are 100% correct. My comment is more directed at that bushing. I see a few issues with that set up. You are correct, the wrist pin does not have a needle bearing. I misspoke. CO
Dynamic load vs. unflex bonding is not a good partnership. And how could a thin layer of oil get in between pin and bushing? The fit is slightly too tight for that. It may run-in but is relying on failsafe running properties right from the beginning.
All the comments and no one questioned why you've used plain bronze instead of phosphor bronze... slightly more expense but not much effort if you are going to this trouble Paul?
Nice work but I don't trust that Loctite for a pin piston bush. Loctite 638 works at maximum 180 degrees and it is possible that the pin piston to reach that temperature because it is so close to the piston. But maybe I am wrong and it is not reaching that temperature because of the oil splash in the engine. Have you tested before this Loctite 638 for pin piston bushes?
у нас методика другая, втулка ставится с натягом в 1 сотку, после чего наружные кромки развальцовываются, внутренний диаметр достигается разверткой, либо на специальном станке. сажать втулку на фиксатор в данном узле довольно спорное решение.
Why didn't made it tighter? It could rotate after some time
Don't worry, this repair method works.
I have rebushed 2 Honda XR 600, they are steel on steel, no bronze bush.Bored little end and fitted bronze bushes, no interference fit and used high temperature Loctite, no problems, engineering in a can!
а клей будет держать на высокой температуре?
да не будет скорее всего, он при 112 уже становится пластичный.я так подозреваю он не делал посадку в натяг потому что нет у его расточного станка чтобы потом подогнать под палец
Don't worry, this repair method works.
@@user-xl3cx2cz6y можно было бы притиром подогнать после запрессовки
@@UA3USY да думаю банально найти развертку,тем более у его там круглое число.
Для оборотистога движка, мало одного смазочного отверстия.
When I first saw Paul do this, I thought I bet he gets some tasty comments. English isn’t Paul’s native language, and I saw “bronze” in the clip and thought hmmm, no Colisbro or Trojan (brand names), and before this and pressing out the bush, and later using Locite to retain it. For all you naysayers, it can work, it just depends on the loads, lubrication & materials, as I seen in far older engines, floating “bronze” bushes in connecting rods with much heavier pistons in car engines that survive a lot longer than most motorcycles with like for like roller bearing crankshafts, and others with no bushes in connecting rods (steel on steel) that only have low flow oil pumps. I do have a Delapena honing machine, so I could ream out my connecting rods, and do an interference fit, but in all fairness it’s horses for courses, and I can see why Paul does it this way, as he maintains concentricity and running clearance this way. My only observation is in more heavily loaded used connecting rods the “eyes” or holes can become oval, and it is usually best practice to hone this round again, but if you are measuring with a good quality bore micrometer, you can spot if this is necessary, and tbh I saw Paul using one. 👍
Zaujimala by ma zivotnost ? Ja by som to dal určite s presahom a potom vystružnikom. Pravdupovediac takto som to este nikdy nevidel urobit. Ale ak to vydrzi tak klobuk dolu davam 👌.
it should have been a press fit as the hole in the bushing and the hole in the rod MUST align or no oil will reach the pin. this is done with an interferance fit. you heat the rod end to 350*f and grease and freeze the bushing to -20 to -35*f. you pres in via a press and then you can use a end mill to cut the final oiling hole.this ensures the port does not move. but with that, you should have cleaned up the rod end hole before measuring. using some scrotch bright in a drill and soime wd40 would have been perfect for this job.
people forgetting that it only does a half turn when in motion also cant come out because it's inside the piston ,good job it will be fine .
And still, the old one is f***ing worn to death due to half this revolution.
@@Quiet.Light.Engineering Exactly!
Bush has no interference fit?
Good job Paul!🇧🇷
Quá tuyệt vời bạn tôi tôi làm biến phiên dịch quá 😁😁😁
4:04 That is a flex now!! :D Good job and greetings from Bulgaria
Cześć, wydaje mi się że pasowanie tej tulejki jest za luźne.
It should have been made to fit tighter, period.
This could be applied to yamaha xt 600 also...bronze bush wears out and clack clack...
Absolutely....Peter the 80 year magician done one for me years ago when I was still in UK on my Tenere....the bronze retains oil or grease if I remember right....i should have made the time to learn more from him..
Beautiful.
Wrong in so many ways
Where is the Problem if this method works?
@@martinfriedrich2617 I'm not a machinist but the material is too soft for this application and the glue will not hold under temperature. You need a harder material for this application machined slightly bigger than the hole, it must be press fitted, then dornated and finally reamed to final size
Nice job 👌👌👌👌👏👏👏
also fyi that glue will weakin and fail under pressure and heat.
this video reminds me of my gang bought a franny barnet the big end had shot so we made brass bush for the big end it worked ok we had a lot ridding out of it and also done the same thing on my MZts 125 that were ok as well
Repair was not made using technology. The sleeve was squeezed out by the press, and inserted by hand and even put it on glue.
great job as always keep up the great work
Well we all know why it failed -- lol.
You did a good job on the machining but I doubt it will last.
The bushing will spin when the engine gets hot and then the hole for oiling won't line up and it will all fail.
Also bushings need an oil groove for over all oiling. The pin will gall up on that bushing with out it.
A rod end should have a needle bearing not a bushing.
Just my opinions.
Don't be afraid of innovation
Your opinion has nothing to back it up? How would a crf 450 for example benifit from a needle bearing on wrist pin?? Honda engineers are eagerly awaiting your answer.
@@loopeyshooter503 Actually you are 100% correct.
My comment is more directed at that bushing.
I see a few issues with that set up.
You are correct, the wrist pin does not have a needle bearing. I misspoke.
CO
Just buy a new rod assembly.
Very good!
I'm from Americana SP Brasil.
You have gold hands!
top!!
Is there a reason this was repaired instead of buying a new rod kit?
Dynamic load vs. unflex bonding is not a good partnership. And how could a thin layer of oil get in between pin and bushing? The fit is slightly too tight for that. It may run-in but is relying on failsafe running properties right from the beginning.
If it works and lasts without going wrong....its better than modern cars😂😂😂
All the comments and no one questioned why you've used plain bronze instead of phosphor bronze... slightly more expense but not much effort if you are going to this trouble Paul?
Or it should be bearing bronze CuSn7Zn4Pb7 (also known as CC493K or RG7 depending on country)
too tight fit of the wrist pin
mantap makde
What about the new bushing replacement
Tetap semangat,,saya menunggu video terbaru anda
Давненько у Вас не было видео.
Спасибо. 🤝🇷🇺
Top Job,Sir👌
Nice work but I don't trust that Loctite for a pin piston bush. Loctite 638 works at maximum 180 degrees and it is possible that the pin piston to reach that temperature because it is so close to the piston. But maybe I am wrong and it is not reaching that temperature because of the oil splash in the engine. Have you tested before this Loctite 638 for pin piston bushes?
Don't worry, this repair method works.
Realy?!
Come for the great video, stay for the dumb comments
Genius.
bad job! too loose fit, don't give me expansion rubbish, press and then ream
Unnecessary effort - this is how it works - 100%
Not for a long time
Ampco 45?
Klasik bronze
mantap
Первый, нах!
Он втулку сделал без натяга в шатуне а клей от нагрева отвалится
Согласен, посредственная работа
El buje tiene que entrar a presion en la biela,el pegamento no funciona....