I learned to sew at age 8 with my mom as my teacher. She taught me to use “tracing paper” and a tracing wheel to mark dots with an x. Your method makes so much sense.
My mother taught me to sew 60 years ago. You hit the nail on the head; the sizing is my most aggravating. Thank you for point out that there are many ways to accomplish your task too. Necessity IS the mother of invention. Love your videos, Catherine. You made me love sewing again.
I remember Nancy Zieman saying that the placement of notches and circles seem at times to be just a suggestion by the pattern companies. She wished they matched up better. Doubtful there will be any improvements since the big 4 are owned by one company. Your students are lucky to have you.
I'm so glad you shared those! I feel exactly the same. I'm old school, I like the patterns from the 80's! They use to Notch "out" on the Pattern. Now all these circles are confusing even to an advanced sewer. I still cut my notches outwards in the triangle shape.
My mom taught me to follow a pattern when I was 13 and I started making dresses for school. She always encouraged me to read and follow the instructions but she also told me after you've been sewing a while you'll find easier ways to get the same results. The instructions are a guide not the gospel😂😂
I’ve been sewing for 60 years, and very rarely even look at the instructions any more. I always put the sleeve in before sewing the side seam and put the zipper in before sewing the side seams. The pattern companies tend to give instructions to ensure less professional results.
I SO agree with you about the pet peeves. I am an experienced sewer and don’t have a problem knowing when to serge or otherwise finish my edges but I have been helping my daughter, a newbie sewer to make a few garments and many is the time I have said not to follow the pattern instruction because there was a better way. So I feel bad for inexperienced sewers who trust the pattern companies to show them correct techniques. I would also like to mention that not all CZcams videos are created equal. Watched a lady the other day telling me that all seams including enclosed seams must be overlocked🤦♀️. So I will add that to my pet peeves 😁
I used to drive my sewing teachers at school absolutely wild because I would disregard a lot of the lessons and just sew things the way I had already been taught by my mother and grandmother. I would lose marks for sewing my project the "wrong" way, but the teacher would invariably hold up my finished project and tell everyone that this was the way their projects were supposed to turn out. I was obstinate enough to hold fast to what I already had seen work well at home, but of course I always listened carefully in class and did try to do things in the proscribed way if I thought it would work. I think this made me an arrogant little snip to teach, but I still love sewing to this day, and I knew a lot of kids who declared that as soon as we finished school they were never going to touch another sewing machine.
I definitely agree with you on most of them but I do think that beginners need the name of the fabrics that would work for the pattern because they look at a store half full of woven fabrics and have no idea what they should
I sure wish I was in your sewing class. Might look weird a 60 year old grandma who is just learning to sew. It would be worth it to have someone like you with hands on training.
When I was a young a sewist back in the 60s and 70s, we were allowed to take the pieces out of the pattern envelope. One of my pet peeves in those mini-skirt days was the skirt pattern pieces were over-long, so we often were able to shorten the skirts substantially. We’d lay out the pieces to see where we could use less fabric. Everyone in the shop would gather ‘round and kibbutz until we had a layout we liked. We’d match plaids, see whether a directional fabric worked - it was great! LOL. The good old days!
Excellent points all, and I have one I'd like to add. Many of us have petite torsos and/or legs. That can mean adjustments at 5 different places. Between shoulder and bust, bust and waist, waist and hip, hip to knee, knee to ankle. I would love to see a dotted line for a place on the pattern for the best place to make these adjustments. I know tall ladies would love these as well. When we're already adjusting for horizontal measurements, it's complicated to try to adjust vertically at the same time. I rarely sew these days, but I like learning from your videos. I chose yours today because I particularly like your pleasant presentation voice.
I bet you are a great teacher and your students love you. Pls teach a class on line for beginner adults. It is very confusing and figuring out the fabric types is worst. Thank you for the tips.
I'm not a beginner, but I don't often use a commercial pattern and find it really confusing when I do, especially with sizing issues. Thank you for calling these peeves out and giving great suggestions! Your knowledge and perspective as a teacher should be valued by the pattern industry.
If you do chose to use a commercial pattern Lindsey here on CZcams aka Insidethehem has an awesome Fast Fit Worksheet to help you with the sizing and ease in any pattern. I cannot recommend it enough!
I feel you should continue this catharsis and bring out your own range of patterns. Coupled with your excellent tutorials (and you could do specific tutorials to accompany them) they will be winners for sure! ❤
Oh my, these pet peeves are mine, too! Maybe with the exception of the fabric names. I love looking up new fabrics and fondle them in the fabric shop. But that's just me. Your tips how to avoid getting caught are so helpful, thank you very much. Would you one day make a video about a dress form? I want to buy one, but shy away from spending so much money. Maybe I just need some more arguments for or against...
Evelyn Wood made great videos about them, the different types and what dress forms can’t do for you. Thanks to her videos, I’ve decided that a dress form would be a bad purchase for me. It could be an invaluable purchase for you though.
I freaking love your videos and your perspective! I agree with all of these pet peeves! Your students are lucky to have you and to still have a sewing program in their school.
I am 152 cm tall and sew because ‘short’ fitting commercial clothes are not short enough. I am getting older and shrinking too. I always cut up my patterns for length in the leg, sleeve, move bust darts so they are not at my waist and add extra ease at the waist as, like you said the measurements appear to be to fit a Smurf! I love sewing and I was so pleased to hear everything you said, I thought it was just me for many years ( I have been sewing for about 55 years now) I am in the uk and you had one of my favourite patterns, the shirt. Keep up the good work and thank you, I love your channel and I am so glad you teach your pupils the best hints and tips 🤗
How I wish I had been taught to sew by you when I was a teenager making my own clothes to save money. ( It was very" zen" to sew on a treadle machine even though it only had straight stitch and didn't go backwards). Thank goodness it was the 60's and shift dresses were in style! I am only now getting to really understand many of the needed techniques in my 70's. I find your videos so helpful... thanks you very much for sharing your knowledge!. I wish patterns always showed the finished garment sizes on the back of the packet
All good points and I have to admit I make those tedious tailor-tacks at the circles. I can kiss those goodbye! Here's hoping the right people at the pattern companies see this video. And, your presentation was great - comical in fact.
These are all valid points about sewing patterns and why I don't really like commercial sewing patterns. I can add two of my own complaints: why are we having to spend hours of time cutting out the pattern pieces, and why are they such flimsy paper? Style Arc , which are from Australia, have decent paper for their patterns at least, but please tell me why we have to cut out the pieces? Couldn't the fancy machines that print them on huge paper, also cut them out, even if they were cut out with a bit of extra paper around them? I am trying to think of an example of an example of a comparable process: Let's say you went to buy some 2x4s at the lumber shop... do they hand you a log and expect you to cut out the 2x4s? LOL a bad example I guess.
To add a tidbit most new sewists if they get overly frustrated and have learning troubles; They won't want to ever try again. Thank you for the great video and for the helpful tips.
I've been sewing for more than 35 years and had a DUH moment when you talked about the circles at the sleeves, especially for the ease. I feel really stupid now that I know why they're there. I guess I've been doing it my own way and winging it but had good results. I have also sewn many 19th century dresses from the 1860s-1900 and find sewing these so much easier than our modern patterns, which is strange since historic clothing has many techniques considered couture nowadays. I really enjoyed this video.
I do agree with you in regards to the big 4. I moved away from them after Simplicity decided to cancel having patterns in Canada but still avail in usa. I have found that the indies cie to have become better and more friendly to sewist new or old, their instructions are superior written and with a lot of pictures of every steps as well as they give you so much options or new techniques better finish. So overall in my opinion the big 4 are behind and have not updated their way to see the new generation of sewists.
Yes, Canadians felt very slighted when Simplicity ditched us! The one I showed in this video was an oldie since I haven't been able to buy them for a few years now. And I agree that the big companies are falling behind as the indie companies get better and better.
EBay sellers may be the solution for you, however I realize that you wouldn’t have a catalog to look through. Still, you could do a eBay search such as Simplicity Dress size whatever.
I'm so glad I found your channel. I used to sew a long time ago. Then, I had a few bad experiences where I spent a lot of money on fabric and the sewing project just didn't work so I tossed my sewing out the window for a while. You explain things very clearly so maybe I'll give garment sewing a try again. I love to wear natural, breathable fabrics and these fabrics are becoming harder to find in ready to wear. I'm going to choose a very simple pattern to maybe raise my chances of sewing a successful garment. Thanks again for your great videos!
O-MY-LANTA!! I have been sewing for 50 years and never noticed the finished measurements on the front pattern piece. I always knew that the pattern sizes were bigger than pre-made sizes and tried to guess, from the envelope measurements of course, what size to make. I'm just about to make dresses for my granddaughters. One wears a size 5 or 6 but according to the measurements on the front piece I need to make a size 3. THREE!!! I never would have gone that small! Thank you so much for this pet peeve. It was a helpful tip for me! I am a relatively new viewer. I watched your video on how to make a t-shirt smaller and was hooked. I admire how gutsy you are to cut into whatever you want to alter and just do it. It's given me the courage to try a few things of my own. Thanks for the tips and tricks along the way. I now see your video on choosing the right sized sewing pattern. It will be next on my list. Thanks, Catherine!
Thanks for tipps, Catherine, your sew technics are easier, simpler and logic enough to follow 👍, than the hundreds sew patterns instructions, which make me dizzi ! Have a good day ❣
Yes, yes, yes, 10 times over! And thank you so much for the fitting tips. I’ve been sewing on and off for over 55 years and never took note of the measurements printed on the patterns. That will be the first thing I look for with my next sew.
All I can say is, "Thank you!!!". I'm a quilter, recently trying my hand at sewing clothing....I have absolutely no idea of most suggested fabrics except knits.
Hi Catherine. I’m so with you on those points! I’ve been sewing for 53 years and it amazes me that the commercial patterns have not really changed in all that time. Having the final garment measurements on the actual patterns pieces is the worst sin of all!! And there is always way too much ease in those patterns. It’s such a pity that they can’t seem to change with the times. Diana
I am totally in agreement. I hooked with sewing when I was 7 years old, doll clothes, and really got involved at 12. I'm 80 now, and still do not understand why pattern companies haven't figured out that there would be more sewers if improved all that you have mentioned. It would be to the advantage of the pattern companies. Why does it have to be so confusing, hire people that actually sew. Thanks for sharing, now I know I'm not alone.
thanks for your video. I totally agree, especially concerning the body measurements. I’m an experienced sewer and know not to go by those, but you’re so right about how confusing that is for a newbie. There’s no excuse for the Big 4 to use such unrealistic measurements and overdoing the wearing ease. Another one of mine is that patterns for stretch knits continue to specify. 5/8” seam allowance. It would be easier and more sensible to use a 3/8” s.a., as most Indy patterns do.
Thanks for this. I start volunteering in a beginner sewing group this week. I've sewn for over 50 years, so seeing the challenges for beginners will help me help them. (I also learned something about sizing choices for myself). Thanks.
I am right with you!! I've just finished a dress with a nice facing and spaghetti straps. The pattern set the straps properly in the front but not in the back. I finished the dress and opened the facing in back to insert the strap and give it a finished look. The pattern's size measurements have caused me problems as well, I'm a 14-16 so I go large and measure and adjust before I cut.
I almost got dizzy nodding my head through all of these! I’ve been sewing for almost 50 years (yikes that makes me feel old😉) and I don’t know what half of those fabric names are! I agree with knit or woven and maybe simple examples of what those are.
I SO enjoyed watching this entire video!! I found myself smiling thru the whole thing. I’ve just recently returned to sewing (I’m 75) and am having a ball sewing fun, crafty things. But I do want to try sewing a blouse or top. Thank you so much for all the good tips! I’ve saved it and will watch it again.
Eventually!!!!!! Thank you so much Catherine this is taking so much frustration out of my life. I love each and every one of your videos. Please keep going.
One of the most enjoyable and interesting aspects of sewing is debating which type of fabric to pair with the pattern so I learned the names of the fabrics and also studied textiles in college. Beginners probably won't have the ability to know the names but if they wish to advance their skills, they should learn the names. The patterns that list the names should ALSO, as you suggest, include more generic descriptions like woven lightweight drapey, or firm heavy drape for the benefit of those who don't know the names.
I totally agree with ALL of these comments. I am so pleased to have found your you tube about sewing. One thing that I would add is that the art work is not representative of the finished garment. Photographs are much better. I even contacted one company to mention this as the sleeve on the finished dress was nothing like the artwork on the pattern package. Didn’t get anywhere!
Thank you thank you a million times! These new pattern are confusing to me and I have been sewing for a long time. I tried to explain this stuff to my 98 year old mom and she was so confused because she sewed with notches and a single pattern lay out. Thanks again. ❤
Sizing: OMG I wish I had seen your video 30 years prior! Thank you thank you thank you for pointing out how far off the stupid pattern sizing on the outside is, and how to actually find the right size in it! 🎉 I have been airing on the side of caution and always having to alter it, and it looks like 💩. I recently bought a ton of patterns and now I’m actually excited to use them.
Thank you for sharing this information. One of my biggest regrets is not taking home economics in high school. Thank goodness for 7th and 8th grade home ec. We learned just the basics of working with a pattern, but it was a start. This video was very helpful.
Thank you for bringing up your pet peeves, which have always confused me and I’ve sewing a very long time. Finding the right size has been a nightmare! Then it makes me frustrated and I have ruined nice fabric or had to recut if I had enough fabric. I always bought more yardage to make sure I could adjust the pattern or cut it again. What a waste of money and time. This helped me to understand the markings and sizing on the patterns a lot better! I was not formally taught to sew and I either learned from my self-taught Mother or on my own.
Drives me mad the finished measurements inside the packet! I was working on a NL skirt the other day & when I looked on the inside it had finished bust measurements & not waist! I think a descriptive line at the beginning of the fabric suggestions would be helpful but alongside the actual suggested fabrics too. My additional pet peeve with these patterns is the often off putting styling on the front & under representation of older/ethnic/different sized models. I'm sure there's more but I'll leave it for now!
And THAT is why I find pieces of clothing I like and look around at your videos on how to alter them. I am terrified of patterns! (even more so now after your video, maybe you should have your own pattern line? Catherine Sews Patterns......)
My pet peeve: Many of us grade out patterns in or out. Say maybe, a size 10 at shoulders/bust but size 12 at the hips. So grade from 10 to 12. If you're a little bigger, grade from 12 to 14. It's the next one that is my pet peeve. Sizes up to 14 on one pattern, then sizes start at 16 on the next. They don't allow for grading 14 to 16. Better companies offer sizes up to 14 in one envelope, and 14 and up in the larger option. That allows grading of 12 to 14, and also 14 to 16.
I think even knit patterns should have some positive ease depending on the garment as fabric stretched tight over the body is more often than not unflattering..
Thank you for these valuable tips! The sizing info is what I found the most valuable. I love to sew and wish I had more time to do so. The sizing can be very frustrating. Those tips are very helpful to try to figure out what size is best!
Brilliant! Would never have thought about doing these 'alterations' thank you so much! I'm the one who sits in the corner faffing about with tailor tacks! X x x
Maybe you should be teaching your students what these fabrics are - like MY Home Ec teacher did 55 years ago. The sizing & measurements are just off, you explain that so well 🥰. Of course most patterns have multiple sizes in each, thank goodness. I haven’t used the layouts in patterns since 8th grade. So wasteful. I use tailor tacks & chalk, & always mark the center front & back. I always zigzag my pattern pieces unless it’s a very thin material. I also rarely follow pattern directions - I do read them just to check for weirdness ( Looking at Vogue here). BTW one of MY pet peeves is the use of this word ‘sewist’. I’m a seamstress & a tailor, thanks so much.
Before we could buy fabric online,most of the suggested fabrics were unknown to me! I had never seen lawn, georgette,and several others(at least not by those names!)
Thank you, SOOO much for your clarifications❣️ I have only owned a 1/2 dozen store patterns in my life and I always wondered if it was me that was the problem when it was actually the pattern most of the time.🤷🏼♀️
I couldn't agree more with the topic of notches. I've been sewing for years and the older patterns were much better and less confusing. The size dots you reference have caused me a moment of pause when cutting out because, like your students, I find them confusing - even more so when altering patterns. I also agree that the pattern waist size is ridiculous. Most of my sewing friends refuse to garment sew because of the frustration with fit.
I also make a single snip where any notch or tailor tack should be! I like having the names of the fabrics, but I agree there should be more descriptive terms. And yes, some of the techniques are just bizarre. I find that Burda skimps on instructions.
I love your videos. I am plus sized and use indie patterns instead of trying to upsize the big 4. The instructions are so much better but not perfect. Thank you for your great videos xx
Very valid points, especially sizing. I wouldn't agree with you on the fabric description though. You can easily look up what 'single jersey' means. 'Moderate stretch' on the other hand is a very relative term. I like mij definitions to be precise :)
Even reading men's commercial patterns, the fabric types are completely foreign to a new sewist like me for sure. Is there perchance a book you could recommend that has swatches of fabric types, but isn't from a specific fabric supplier? Sewing men's apparel, I feel a bit limited with fabric that doesn't overly scream feminine in the local fabric stores. Referencing such a book would be far easier than taking a gamble ordering fabric online whilst not knowing it's texture, thickness, drape, or hand. I thank you for posting your videos, as I truly find a lot of them helpful!
I not only have been sewing my own clothes and others for many years , but have worked in fabric stores. The biggest mistake I have seen customers make is not choosing the fabric type recommended for the pattern. Like, you mentioned, who knows what those esoteric fabrics are that are mentioned on the pattern.
I agree. All of it. I really wish all of the finished measurements were on the package. I don’t need the hem circumfrence or the back to waist measurement until I open the pattern. Those could be on the pattern pieces and put the finished upper bust, bust, waist, hip on the package. Also the instructions are often confusing and don’t match the illustrations. I’ve dnf garments because they wouldn’t go together properly.
As an experienced seamstress I rarely follow the instructions in a pattern. I skim them in case there is an unusual assembly order, but then just do my own thing. I do agree with your assessment about commercial patterns. My complaint about most of them is that they haven’t updated their instructions in years! The number of patterns that still have hand whip stitching something to finish….really? Feel free to NOT follow every instruction as given! They are not “orders from headquarters”, they are GUIDE sheets.
Thank you for this! I think there must be something about how the planets are aligned that's creating an impulse to VENT! I just did so two days ago about an entirely different process that was just way too inefficient and unecessarily complicated. I felt a lot better after doing so too. (Had to take a few deep breaths first and find the kindest words I could muster, without completely hiding my frustration. Mission accomplished!
I had a sewing textbook that I bought in a used bookstore in the 60s as a teen. It was printed in the 40s. I didnt keep it. Sorry I gave away. Best book! One chapter had like 20 ways to make a pocket. Ive looked at some since and as time goes oh less helpfull! I was taught by my elders to always measure pattern pieces between seam allowances and add together. I dont think ive had any pattern match envelope sizes and im 68 now! Sewing with patterns since age 10.
Omg, i'm just at the 2nd one and this explains so much! I made a dress for myself for xmas and I had to remove around 4-6 inches around the knitted fabric waist because it was just gigantic. I thought it was me messing the measurements, and i might have, but i probably got trolled by the size chart!
Throughout the years I have tried to sew garments using commercial patterns, and I agree with you absolutely! Your point about how you want to use a pattern on your own was exactly right. Sometimes you just want to try your hand at making something unique! I remember making a pair of pants from a Butterick pattern, and blindly using the sizes on the back. That was an expensive mistake!
I feel better! Perhaps I'm not as incompetent as I thought :) Especially your pet peeve No: 10. I have just struggled with the double underarm fold and made a complete pigs ear of the job.
I'm not super talented at all with sewing but even I have found the instructions on patterns to be impossible to directly follow, so I usually just use them as guidelines and hope for the best. Results are usually good enough for my needs lol.
As a beginner I've run into all of these issues. I have already heard/read the explanation about ease but never an explanation on what to do with that information. Or to read the measurements on the pattern itself. Now I do 🙂 Thanks, I learned a lot!
This video was so incredibly useful to me. I’ve only been sewing for myself for 8 months, and I’ve avoided these types of patterns like the plague, mainly because of the bad press. Instead, I’ve been using Indie patterns, which are more expensive but give brilliant instructions. After watching this however, I feel brave enough to give commercial patterns a try. Thank you.
Great things to know! I haven’t bought a new pattern for about 30 years & didn’t know that they use circles now! In my retirement years now, I’ve considered buying a tunic pattern but have thought about just using another garment as a pattern…maybe? I love your techniques & tips & have wanted to sew something new just to see if I can.😉 In my teens I used to sew most of my own clothes because it was hard to find clothes that fit me right. I usually just buy second hand & improvise the fit.
The circles are for tailors tacks for darts, etc. Sometimes they’re on a sleeve to match the centre to the shoulder seam, etc. also used for floating pocket placement onto the breast or back pockets on pants. Can’t use notches for any of that.
If I lived in Canada, I'd be in your class. But people would want to know why that old woman, 65+ is there, when she's been sewing since dinosaurs roamed the earth. I absolutely love your videos! Way back when, patterns were accurate; Simplicity, Vogue, McCalls and Butterick. But no more! I now draft my own patterns, using a kit. And, most importantly, I look forward to your videos, every time they are posted.
Wow! Such great information. Thank you so much. I do up cycles and haven't yet used a commercial pattern, and had no idea they would be so awkward. I now feel equipped with insider knowledge if I did tackle one. What a fabulous video. I'm learning such a lot from you Catherine. Keep your video gems coming!
Oh my goodness…. I knew enough to go by measurements on the packet and not my ready to wear size but things just never fitted. I didn’t even know that actual finished size was shown on the pattern. Thank you!
I learned to sew at age 8 with my mom as my teacher. She taught me to use “tracing paper” and a tracing wheel to mark dots with an x. Your method makes so much sense.
My mother taught me to sew 60 years ago. You hit the nail on the head; the sizing is my most aggravating. Thank you for point out that there are many ways to accomplish your task too. Necessity IS the mother of invention. Love your videos, Catherine. You made me love sewing again.
Thanks for the lovely comment, Sandy! It thrills me to know that you love sewing again!
I think you should send this video to the companies so they can fix these issues in their patterns!
I remember Nancy Zieman saying that the placement of notches and circles seem at times to be just a suggestion by the pattern companies. She wished they matched up better. Doubtful there will be any improvements since the big 4 are owned by one company. Your students are lucky to have you.
I'm so glad you shared those! I feel exactly the same. I'm old school, I like the patterns from the 80's! They use to Notch "out" on the Pattern. Now all these circles are confusing even to an advanced sewer. I still cut my notches outwards in the triangle shape.
Yes notching into the seam allowance limits you on how much you can let out a seam. I always notch out
My mom taught me to follow a pattern when I was 13 and I started making dresses for school. She always encouraged me to read and follow the instructions but she also told me after you've been sewing a while you'll find easier ways to get the same results. The instructions are a guide not the gospel😂😂
I’ve been sewing for 60 years, and very rarely even look at the instructions any more. I always put the sleeve in before sewing the side seam and put the zipper in before sewing the side seams. The pattern companies tend to give instructions to ensure less professional results.
I SO agree with you about the pet peeves. I am an experienced sewer and don’t have a problem knowing when to serge or otherwise finish my edges but I have been helping my daughter, a newbie sewer to make a few garments and many is the time I have said not to follow the pattern instruction because there was a better way. So I feel bad for inexperienced sewers who trust the pattern companies to show them correct techniques. I would also like to mention that not all CZcams videos are created equal. Watched a lady the other day telling me that all seams including enclosed seams must be overlocked🤦♀️. So I will add that to my pet peeves 😁
I used to drive my sewing teachers at school absolutely wild because I would disregard a lot of the lessons and just sew things the way I had already been taught by my mother and grandmother. I would lose marks for sewing my project the "wrong" way, but the teacher would invariably hold up my finished project and tell everyone that this was the way their projects were supposed to turn out. I was obstinate enough to hold fast to what I already had seen work well at home, but of course I always listened carefully in class and did try to do things in the proscribed way if I thought it would work. I think this made me an arrogant little snip to teach, but I still love sewing to this day, and I knew a lot of kids who declared that as soon as we finished school they were never going to touch another sewing machine.
You are so cute in your description and so spit on. I have been sewing for 60 plus years and I agree completely.
I definitely agree with you on most of them but I do think that beginners need the name of the fabrics that would work for the pattern because they look at a store half full of woven fabrics and have no idea what they should
I sure wish I was in your sewing class. Might look weird a 60 year old grandma who is just learning to sew. It would be worth it to have someone like you with hands on training.
Nothing unsual about learning something new at any age
I'm Kissin close to 50 and learning, also. 💗💗💗💗💗
Cathy I too wish that I could have had do a awesome instructor like Katherine.
I hope Katherine’s students know how lucky they are🥰🥰🥰
I say that too, and I'm 55 (also been sewing forever)
Cathy, some community colleges offer sewing, you might check it out. It is easier to learn in a class, I think.
Your observations are very enlightening to this 80 year old who has been making garments on and off since age 9! Thank you for sharing.
When I was a young a sewist back in the 60s and 70s, we were allowed to take the pieces out of the pattern envelope. One of my pet peeves in those mini-skirt days was the skirt pattern pieces were over-long, so we often were able to shorten the skirts substantially. We’d lay out the pieces to see where we could use less fabric. Everyone in the shop would gather ‘round and kibbutz until we had a layout we liked. We’d match plaids, see whether a directional fabric worked - it was great!
LOL. The good old days!
Excellent points all, and I have one I'd like to add. Many of us have petite torsos and/or legs. That can mean adjustments at 5 different places. Between shoulder and bust, bust and waist, waist and hip, hip to knee, knee to ankle. I would love to see a dotted line for a place on the pattern for the best place to make these adjustments. I know tall ladies would love these as well. When we're already adjusting for horizontal measurements, it's complicated to try to adjust vertically at the same time.
I rarely sew these days, but I like learning from your videos. I chose yours today because I particularly like your pleasant presentation voice.
Wonderful to hear, Liz!
I bet you are a great teacher and your students love you. Pls teach a class on line for beginner adults. It is very confusing and figuring out the fabric types is worst. Thank you for the tips.
I'm not a beginner, but I don't often use a commercial pattern and find it really confusing when I do, especially with sizing issues. Thank you for calling these peeves out and giving great suggestions! Your knowledge and perspective as a teacher should be valued by the pattern industry.
Thank you, Katherine!
If you do chose to use a commercial pattern Lindsey here on CZcams aka Insidethehem has an awesome Fast Fit Worksheet to help you with the sizing and ease in any pattern. I cannot recommend it enough!
I feel you should continue this catharsis and bring out your own range of patterns. Coupled with your excellent tutorials (and you could do specific tutorials to accompany them) they will be winners for sure! ❤
Don’t even get me started about the amount of ease they put into a smooth sleeve cap. You’d think you were suppose to gather the sleeves🤦🏻♀️
Oh my, these pet peeves are mine, too! Maybe with the exception of the fabric names. I love looking up new fabrics and fondle them in the fabric shop. But that's just me. Your tips how to avoid getting caught are so helpful, thank you very much. Would you one day make a video about a dress form? I want to buy one, but shy away from spending so much money. Maybe I just need some more arguments for or against...
Evelyn Wood made great videos about them, the different types and what dress forms can’t do for you. Thanks to her videos, I’ve decided that a dress form would be a bad purchase for me. It could be an invaluable purchase for you though.
I freaking love your videos and your perspective! I agree with all of these pet peeves! Your students are lucky to have you and to still have a sewing program in their school.
Thanks so much, Sheri!
I am 152 cm tall and sew because ‘short’ fitting commercial clothes are not short enough. I am getting older and shrinking too. I always cut up my patterns for length in the leg, sleeve, move bust darts so they are not at my waist and add extra ease at the waist as, like you said the measurements appear to be to fit a Smurf! I love sewing and I was so pleased to hear everything you said, I thought it was just me for many years ( I have been sewing for about 55 years now) I am in the uk and you had one of my favourite patterns, the shirt. Keep up the good work and thank you, I love your channel and I am so glad you teach your pupils the best hints and tips 🤗
How I wish I had been taught to sew by you when I was a teenager making my own clothes to save money. ( It was very" zen" to sew on a treadle machine even though it only had straight stitch and didn't go backwards). Thank goodness it was the 60's and shift dresses were in style! I am only now getting to really understand many of the needed techniques in my 70's. I find your videos so helpful... thanks you very much for sharing your knowledge!. I wish patterns always showed the finished garment sizes on the back of the packet
You are a great teacher!
All good points and I have to admit I make those tedious tailor-tacks at the circles. I can kiss those goodbye! Here's hoping the right people at the pattern companies see this video. And, your presentation was great - comical in fact.
These are all valid points about sewing patterns and why I don't really like commercial sewing patterns. I can add two of my own complaints: why are we having to spend hours of time cutting out the pattern pieces, and why are they such flimsy paper? Style Arc , which are from Australia, have decent paper for their patterns at least, but please tell me why we have to cut out the pieces? Couldn't the fancy machines that print them on huge paper, also cut them out, even if they were cut out with a bit of extra paper around them? I am trying to think of an example of an example of a comparable process: Let's say you went to buy some 2x4s at the lumber shop... do they hand you a log and expect you to cut out the 2x4s? LOL a bad example I guess.
Ha, ha, my carpenter husband would agree!
To add a tidbit most new sewists if they get overly frustrated and have learning troubles; They won't want to ever try again. Thank you for the great video and for the helpful tips.
Wish I had all this wonderful info 58 years ago when I started sewing. So enjoy your videos and tips.
Thank you Catherine! As a beginner sewist who is intimidated by patterns this was very informative. Really appreciate the content you provided.
I have been sewing for fifty years, so glad it’s not just me! It is easier to ignore a lot of complicated instructions. Sue 🇬🇧 x
I've been sewing for more than 35 years and had a DUH moment when you talked about the circles at the sleeves, especially for the ease. I feel really stupid now that I know why they're there. I guess I've been doing it my own way and winging it but had good results. I have also sewn many 19th century dresses from the 1860s-1900 and find sewing these so much easier than our modern patterns, which is strange since historic clothing has many techniques considered couture nowadays. I really enjoyed this video.
I do agree with you in regards to the big 4. I moved away from them after Simplicity decided to
cancel having patterns in Canada but still avail in usa. I have found that the indies cie to have become better and more friendly to sewist new or old, their instructions are superior written and with a lot of pictures of every steps as well as they give you so much options or new techniques better finish. So overall in my opinion the big 4 are behind and have not updated their way to see the new generation of sewists.
Yes, Canadians felt very slighted when Simplicity ditched us! The one I showed in this video was an oldie since I haven't been able to buy them for a few years now. And I agree that the big companies are falling behind as the indie companies get better and better.
EBay sellers may be the solution for you, however I realize that you wouldn’t have a catalog to look through. Still, you could do a eBay search such as Simplicity Dress size whatever.
I'm so glad I found your channel. I used to sew a long time ago. Then, I had a few bad experiences where I spent a lot of money on fabric and the sewing project just didn't work so I tossed my sewing out the window for a while. You explain things very clearly so maybe I'll give garment sewing a try again. I love to wear natural, breathable fabrics and these fabrics are becoming harder to find in ready to wear. I'm going to choose a very simple pattern to maybe raise my chances of sewing a successful garment. Thanks again for your great videos!
Hell, even I don’t know what charmeuse is, and I’m 61! And who can find double georgette at Joann’s?
O-MY-LANTA!! I have been sewing for 50 years and never noticed the finished measurements on the front pattern piece. I always knew that the pattern sizes were bigger than pre-made sizes and tried to guess, from the envelope measurements of course, what size to make. I'm just about to make dresses for my granddaughters. One wears a size 5 or 6 but according to the measurements on the front piece I need to make a size 3. THREE!!! I never would have gone that small! Thank you so much for this pet peeve. It was a helpful tip for me!
I am a relatively new viewer. I watched your video on how to make a t-shirt smaller and was hooked. I admire how gutsy you are to cut into whatever you want to alter and just do it. It's given me the courage to try a few things of my own. Thanks for the tips and tricks along the way.
I now see your video on choosing the right sized sewing pattern. It will be next on my list.
Thanks, Catherine!
Thanks for tipps, Catherine, your sew technics are easier, simpler and logic enough to follow 👍, than the hundreds sew patterns instructions, which make me dizzi ! Have a good day ❣
Yes, yes, yes, 10 times over! And thank you so much for the fitting tips. I’ve been sewing on and off for over 55 years and never took note of the measurements printed on the patterns. That will be the first thing I look for with my next sew.
All I can say is, "Thank you!!!". I'm a quilter, recently trying my hand at sewing clothing....I have absolutely no idea of most suggested fabrics except knits.
Hi Catherine. I’m so with you on those points! I’ve been sewing for 53 years and it amazes me that the commercial patterns have not really changed in all that time. Having the final garment measurements on the actual patterns pieces is the worst sin of all!! And there is always way too much ease in those patterns. It’s such a pity that they can’t seem to change with the times. Diana
I am totally in agreement. I hooked with sewing when I was 7 years old, doll clothes, and really got involved at 12. I'm 80 now, and still do not understand why pattern companies haven't figured out that there would be more sewers if improved all that you have mentioned. It would be to the advantage of the pattern companies. Why does it have to be so confusing, hire people that actually sew.
Thanks for sharing, now I know I'm not alone.
thanks for your video. I totally agree, especially concerning the body measurements. I’m an experienced sewer and know not to go by those, but you’re so right about how confusing that is for a newbie. There’s no excuse for the Big 4 to use such unrealistic measurements and overdoing the wearing ease.
Another one of mine is that patterns for stretch knits continue to specify. 5/8” seam allowance. It would be easier and more sensible to use a 3/8” s.a., as most Indy patterns do.
Thanks for this. I start volunteering in a beginner sewing group this week. I've sewn for over 50 years, so seeing the challenges for beginners will help me help them. (I also learned something about sizing choices for myself). Thanks.
I am right with you!! I've just finished a dress with a nice facing and spaghetti straps. The pattern set the straps properly in the front but not in the back. I finished the dress and opened the facing in back to insert the strap and give it a finished look.
The pattern's size measurements have caused me problems as well, I'm a 14-16 so I go large and measure and adjust before I cut.
I almost got dizzy nodding my head through all of these! I’ve been sewing for almost 50 years (yikes that makes me feel old😉) and I don’t know what half of those fabric names are! I agree with knit or woven and maybe simple examples of what those are.
I haven’t bought a pattern in years, I didn’t realize they removed the notches. Thanks for these tips!
I SO enjoyed watching this entire video!! I found myself smiling thru the whole thing. I’ve just recently returned to sewing (I’m 75) and am having a ball sewing fun, crafty things. But I do want to try sewing a blouse or top. Thank you so much for all the good tips! I’ve saved it and will watch it again.
Eventually!!!!!! Thank you so much Catherine this is taking so much frustration out of my life. I love each and every one of your videos. Please keep going.
One of the most enjoyable and interesting aspects of sewing is debating which type of fabric to pair with the pattern so I learned the names of the fabrics and also studied textiles in college. Beginners probably won't have the ability to know the names but if they wish to advance their skills, they should learn the names. The patterns that list the names should ALSO, as you suggest, include more generic descriptions like woven lightweight drapey, or firm heavy drape for the benefit of those who don't know the names.
So agree! I also HATE that they don’t post finished dimensions on the envelope, and don’t list the high bust dimensions on the body sizing chart.
I totally agree with ALL of these comments. I am so pleased to have found your you tube about sewing. One thing that I would add is that the art work is not representative of the finished garment. Photographs are much better. I even contacted one company to mention this as the sleeve on the finished dress was nothing like the artwork on the pattern package. Didn’t get anywhere!
Thank you thank you a million times! These new pattern are confusing to me and I have been sewing for a long time. I tried to explain this stuff to my 98 year old mom and she was so confused because she sewed with notches and a single pattern lay out. Thanks again. ❤
My pleasure, Debra! I'm so glad you found my videos useful!!
Sizing: OMG I wish I had seen your video 30 years prior! Thank you thank you thank you for pointing out how far off the stupid pattern sizing on the outside is, and how to actually find the right size in it! 🎉 I have been airing on the side of caution and always having to alter it, and it looks like 💩. I recently bought a ton of patterns and now I’m actually excited to use them.
Thank you for sharing this information. One of my biggest regrets is not taking home economics in high school. Thank goodness for 7th and 8th grade home ec. We learned just the basics of working with a pattern, but it was a start. This video was very helpful.
You are so right about the sizes. If I use the measurements on the back I will cut a 18 when I where A size 10 or 12.
Here within the first minute! wooot!
Wow, buddy! That's amazing timing!
@@CatherineSews You're a piroriTAY! haha
Thank you. I'm glad to learn all you have to share. Keeping coming 😊
Thank you for bringing up your pet peeves, which have always confused me and I’ve sewing a very long time. Finding the right size has been a nightmare! Then it makes me frustrated and I have ruined nice fabric or had to recut if I had enough fabric. I always bought more yardage to make sure I could adjust the pattern or cut it again. What a waste of money and time. This helped me to understand the markings and sizing on the patterns a lot better! I was not formally taught to sew and I either learned from my self-taught Mother or on my own.
Fantastic to hear! Thanks for the awesome comment 😀
Drives me mad the finished measurements inside the packet! I was working on a NL skirt the other day & when I looked on the inside it had finished bust measurements & not waist! I think a descriptive line at the beginning of the fabric suggestions would be helpful but alongside the actual suggested fabrics too. My additional pet peeve with these patterns is the often off putting styling on the front & under representation of older/ethnic/different sized models. I'm sure there's more but I'll leave it for now!
I can’t read a pattern to save my life. I just wing it.
How liberating! I don't have to sew only as the pattern instructs.
And THAT is why I find pieces of clothing I like and look around at your videos on how to alter them. I am terrified of patterns! (even more so now after your video, maybe you should have your own pattern line? Catherine Sews Patterns......)
My pet peeve: Many of us grade out patterns in or out. Say maybe, a size 10 at shoulders/bust but size 12 at the hips. So grade from 10 to 12. If you're a little bigger, grade from 12 to 14. It's the next one that is my pet peeve. Sizes up to 14 on one pattern, then sizes start at 16 on the next. They don't allow for grading 14 to 16. Better companies offer sizes up to 14 in one envelope, and 14 and up in the larger option. That allows grading of 12 to 14, and also 14 to 16.
YES! That has been so frustrating as I tend to be somewhere in between 14 and 16 and I’m sure there are many more like us!
I think even knit patterns should have some positive ease depending on the garment as fabric stretched tight over the body is more often than not unflattering..
Thank you for these valuable tips! The sizing info is what I found the most valuable. I love to sew and wish I had more time to do so. The sizing can be very frustrating. Those tips are very helpful to try to figure out what size is best!
Brilliant! Would never have thought about doing these 'alterations' thank you so much! I'm the one who sits in the corner faffing about with tailor tacks! X x x
Maybe you should be teaching your students what these fabrics are - like MY Home Ec teacher did 55 years ago.
The sizing & measurements are just off, you explain that so well 🥰. Of course most patterns have multiple sizes in each, thank goodness.
I haven’t used the layouts in patterns since 8th grade. So wasteful.
I use tailor tacks & chalk, & always mark the center front & back.
I always zigzag my pattern pieces unless it’s a very thin material. I also rarely follow pattern directions - I do read them just to check for weirdness ( Looking at Vogue here).
BTW one of MY pet peeves is the use of this word ‘sewist’. I’m a seamstress & a tailor, thanks so much.
Darts! The marking for darts looking the same as a cutting line!
Love this
Before we could buy fabric online,most of the suggested fabrics were unknown to me! I had never seen lawn, georgette,and several others(at least not by those names!)
Thank you, SOOO much for your clarifications❣️ I have only owned a 1/2 dozen store patterns in my life and I always wondered if it was me that was the problem when it was actually the pattern most of the time.🤷🏼♀️
Hi Catherine! I'm getting more into sewing but have never bought a pattern so I can't relate to this but it was informative watching this video.
I couldn't agree more with the topic of notches. I've been sewing for years and the older patterns were much better and less confusing. The size dots you reference have caused me a moment of pause when cutting out because, like your students, I find them confusing - even more so when altering patterns. I also agree that the pattern waist size is ridiculous. Most of my sewing friends refuse to garment sew because of the frustration with fit.
The size dots are SUPER helpful when choosing your size. They're a game changer and can make your garment sewing much less frustrating.
I also make a single snip where any notch or tailor tack should be! I like having the names of the fabrics, but I agree there should be more descriptive terms. And yes, some of the techniques are just bizarre. I find that Burda skimps on instructions.
I love your videos. I am plus sized and use indie patterns instead of trying to upsize the big 4. The instructions are so much better but not perfect. Thank you for your great videos xx
Very valid points, especially sizing. I wouldn't agree with you on the fabric description though. You can easily look up what 'single jersey' means. 'Moderate stretch' on the other hand is a very relative term. I like mij definitions to be precise :)
Everyone who has been sewing a while knows the sizing is crazy. Fun fact- the sizing of the big 4 changed in ‘68 and is still the same to this day.
Even reading men's commercial patterns, the fabric types are completely foreign to a new sewist like me for sure. Is there perchance a book you could recommend that has swatches of fabric types, but isn't from a specific fabric supplier? Sewing men's apparel, I feel a bit limited with fabric that doesn't overly scream feminine in the local fabric stores. Referencing such a book would be far easier than taking a gamble ordering fabric online whilst not knowing it's texture, thickness, drape, or hand. I thank you for posting your videos, as I truly find a lot of them helpful!
I not only have been sewing my own clothes and others for many years , but have worked in fabric stores. The biggest mistake I have seen customers make is not choosing the fabric type recommended for the pattern. Like, you mentioned, who knows what those esoteric fabrics are that are mentioned on the pattern.
I agree. All of it. I really wish all of the finished measurements were on the package. I don’t need the hem circumfrence or the back to waist measurement until I open the pattern. Those could be on the pattern pieces and put the finished upper bust, bust, waist, hip on the package. Also the instructions are often confusing and don’t match the illustrations. I’ve dnf garments because they wouldn’t go together properly.
I ❤this video and I can tell from this video alone you are a wonderful teacher!
As an experienced seamstress I rarely follow the instructions in a pattern. I skim them in case there is an unusual assembly order, but then just do my own thing. I do agree with your assessment about commercial patterns. My complaint about most of them is that they haven’t updated their instructions in years! The number of patterns that still have hand whip stitching something to finish….really? Feel free to NOT follow every instruction as given! They are not “orders from headquarters”, they are GUIDE sheets.
Thank you for this! I think there must be something about how the planets are aligned that's creating an impulse to VENT! I just did so two days ago about an entirely different process that was just way too inefficient and unecessarily complicated. I felt a lot better after doing so too. (Had to take a few deep breaths first and find the kindest words I could muster, without completely hiding my frustration. Mission accomplished!
I had a sewing textbook that I bought in a used bookstore in the 60s as a teen. It was printed in the 40s. I didnt keep it. Sorry I gave away. Best book! One chapter had like 20 ways to make a pocket. Ive looked at some since and as time goes oh less helpfull! I was taught by my elders to always measure pattern pieces between seam allowances and add together. I dont think ive had any pattern match envelope sizes and im 68 now! Sewing with patterns since age 10.
Omg, i'm just at the 2nd one and this explains so much!
I made a dress for myself for xmas and I had to remove around 4-6 inches around the knitted fabric waist because it was just gigantic.
I thought it was me messing the measurements, and i might have, but i probably got trolled by the size chart!
Throughout the years I have tried to sew garments using commercial patterns, and I agree with you absolutely! Your point about how you want to use a pattern on your own was exactly right. Sometimes you just want to try your hand at making something unique! I remember making a pair of pants from a Butterick pattern, and blindly using the sizes on the back. That was an expensive mistake!
I feel better! Perhaps I'm not as incompetent as I thought :) Especially your pet peeve No: 10. I have just struggled with the double underarm fold and made a complete pigs ear of the job.
I'm not super talented at all with sewing but even I have found the instructions on patterns to be impossible to directly follow, so I usually just use them as guidelines and hope for the best. Results are usually good enough for my needs lol.
As a beginner I've run into all of these issues. I have already heard/read the explanation about ease but never an explanation on what to do with that information. Or to read the measurements on the pattern itself. Now I do 🙂 Thanks, I learned a lot!
This video was so incredibly useful to me. I’ve only been sewing for myself for 8 months, and I’ve avoided these types of patterns like the plague, mainly because of the bad press. Instead, I’ve been using Indie patterns, which are more expensive but give brilliant instructions. After watching this however, I feel brave enough to give commercial patterns a try. Thank you.
Fantastic to hear, Marion! You go!
Ditto. On all your points. Most of the time I end up winging it & hope it turns out.
Great things to know! I haven’t bought a new pattern for about 30 years & didn’t know that they use circles now! In my retirement years now, I’ve considered buying a tunic pattern but have thought about just using another garment as a pattern…maybe? I love your techniques & tips & have wanted to sew something new just to see if I can.😉 In my teens I used to sew most of my own clothes because it was hard to find clothes that fit me right. I usually just buy second hand & improvise the fit.
The circles are for tailors tacks for darts, etc. Sometimes they’re on a sleeve to match the centre to the shoulder seam, etc. also used for floating pocket placement onto the breast or back pockets on pants. Can’t use notches for any of that.
I learned a lot from your video - thank you
I’ve been sewing for decades, but I think I should take your class 😮
Totally practical suggestions. Love every one of them!
If I lived in Canada, I'd be in your class. But people would want to know why that old woman, 65+ is there, when she's been sewing since dinosaurs roamed the earth. I absolutely love your videos! Way back when, patterns were accurate; Simplicity, Vogue, McCalls and Butterick. But no more! I now draft my own patterns, using a kit.
And, most importantly, I look forward to your videos, every time they are posted.
Haha, such a cute comment. You'd definitely be welcome in my class!
So disrespectful.
I love your 10 pet peeves from patterns.
I agree with everything you said!
Wow! Such great information. Thank you so much. I do up cycles and haven't yet used a commercial pattern, and had no idea they would be so awkward. I now feel equipped with insider knowledge if I did tackle one. What a fabulous video. I'm learning such a lot from you Catherine. Keep your video gems coming!
I agree 100%. Thank you for putting this out there!
very good! thanks 😊
Oh my goodness…. I knew enough to go by measurements on the packet and not my ready to wear size but things just never fitted. I didn’t even know that actual finished size was shown on the pattern. Thank you!
Thanks sooo much for sharing ! You are absolutely correct!!❤️❤️❤️