Nice video. I'll add one more tip. If you insist on ripping packs and your goal is to complete the set... you could consider getting other language packs than just English. For example English 151 pack rn in Czechia costs around 5.2+ euros. But a Japanese 151 pack costs 3.5 euros and Korean one even just 2.9 euros. So I can almost get two Korean packs for the price of one English. There are negatives ofc -- how many people on Europe speaks/reads Korean :D - but if you are in for the art, for the cards alone, its sometimes an interesting way to go.
That's a really good tip, indeed! The same goes for buying singles - English ones are usually the most expensive - and other sets. However, be careful with fakes, as it can be difficult to spot them if you are used to English/European cards. Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
It looks a bit more pronounced than it really is due to the angle of the photo, but you are correct. If you check the certification numbers in the PSA registry, you can view both sides of each card. Of course, there are minor differences and an experienced collector will spot them. Still, way too many collectors worry too much about the grade instead of buying a card they enjoy for what it is. Thank you for watching and for your feedback! 😊
100% agree buy singles the smartest and easiest way to go! Especially you can physically see the card and decide either you want to buy or look at another card!
That's a good point. Most people are only interested in a few cards per set so buying the single is always the most cost-effective way. Thanks for watching and happy collecting! 😊
I am only looking at vintage (1999, 1st Editions). I’m buying the few that I want, graded, with the hope to have them all regraded by Beckett (I love those slabs) with sub-grades. (These will all go into my new personal collection). I’m buying all 8’s and up. Q: Are there any tips or strategies to help with the regrading score? I’ve seen some channels that crack slabs, clean and press the cards and can get an increase. Thanks for taking the time to read and help!
Considering that a base set 1st edition Charizard is roughly $10,000, this will still be an expensive set to complete. 😄 As to your question: Yes, you CAN do that and also follow the tips you just described. However, it's VERY risky business. The big issues to look out for: Hidden surface errors, white edges, and centering problems. These will decrease the score the most and you might end up with an even lower grade. I do enjoy buying lower-graded cards and either getting them regraded or simply keeping them for my personal collection. However, I never attempt to flatten any cards as I am too worried it will lead to surface damage. I simply send them in for regrading if I believe they have a chance. Hope this helps! I will put a "grading 101" video on the backlog! 😊 Thank you for commenting and happy collecting.
That's an excellent point for players actually! When buying playsets you also don't need to get all of them in NM quality and instead save money when buying lightly played versions. I mentioned the same thing in my "how to start collecting video". Thank you for your comment! 🔥
A couple of questions! 1. What’s the maximum price per booster pack you’d pay for a normal/still in print set? I’ve avoided paying MSRP, but I’m still not sure what is considered a “good” price per booster pack when I’m browsing online. 2. Are sets often reprinted? I’m trying to collect a complete (not master!) set of S&V 151 and having a hard time finding ETBs or bundles.
Thanks for commenting! 😊 --> 1. Any pack price under 2.75$ (USD) is generally a steal today. 3$ - 4$ is pretty standard. Anything above only if the product (Collection box, ETB, etc) has promo cards I really want and cannot get cheaper as singles. 151 is one of the "special" sets where you cannot buy booster boxes. That makes it a bit more costly than regular releases. For "regular" sets like the newest Twilight Masquerade or Temporal Forces I aim for booster boxes at around 100$-120$ (~2.7$ - 3.3$ per pack) or Elite Trainer Boxes at under 30$-40$ (~3.5$ - 4.5$ per pack). Please remember shipping and taxes so the exact price may vary at your place. For 151 the pack prices will be more in the 4.5-6.5$ range per pack but don't forget that most boxes here also include nice promo cards. Other people want to get the "Pokemon Center" stamp on their Elite Trainer Boxes so they're happy to pay a higher price per pack in exchange. --> 2. Whether a set gets a reprint or when depends largely on the demand. Lost Origin, e.g. was out of stock a couple of months before it got another big reprint. The EU usually gets restocks a few months after the USA/Canada, so again... it may depend a bit on your location. 151 has been reprinted a couple times (especially the Japanese version) and I have read rumors that we will see a reprint in a couple of months or sometime before Christmas. I know many stores in Canada & the US still have lots of 151 ETBs and they are pretty abundant in Europe, as well. Hope this helps and happy collecting! 🔥
Nice video. I'll add one more tip. If you insist on ripping packs and your goal is to complete the set... you could consider getting other language packs than just English.
For example English 151 pack rn in Czechia costs around 5.2+ euros. But a Japanese 151 pack costs 3.5 euros and Korean one even just 2.9 euros. So I can almost get two Korean packs for the price of one English. There are negatives ofc -- how many people on Europe speaks/reads Korean :D - but if you are in for the art, for the cards alone, its sometimes an interesting way to go.
That's a really good tip, indeed!
The same goes for buying singles - English ones are usually the most expensive - and other sets.
However, be careful with fakes, as it can be difficult to spot them if you are used to English/European cards.
Thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Omg the buy singles sketch was hilarious!
Thank you so much!
I'm glad someone enjoyed it as much as I did filming it. 😄
Happy collecting!
Good tips! I wanted to see this video before I started, because I definitely did some of these things..
Thank you! 😊
Yea, you're not alone...basically included all the things I wish someone had told me when starting out myself. Hope it helps!
Thank you! Great video.💯.
Thank you and glad it was helpful! 😊
Happy collecting!
Thanks for the great video. Just starting out on the hobby so your videos are a great help.
Glad you find them helpful!
Let me know if you have anything in particular that interests you.
Thank you for your comment and enjoy your new hobby! 😊
Subbed
Thank you for your comment Brian! 🔥
Really appreciate you watching and love your no-bs business videos.
Very cool videos🎉
Thank you! 😊
Glad you like them and happy collecting!
Love your video. You’re funny and informative at the same time. New Sub!!!😂👍
Awesome 😁
Thanks for your kind words and for subscribing!
Happy collecting and hope you enjoy the upcoming content!
Centering is off. What about the back of the card. Good info
It looks a bit more pronounced than it really is due to the angle of the photo, but you are correct. If you check the certification numbers in the PSA registry, you can view both sides of each card.
Of course, there are minor differences and an experienced collector will spot them.
Still, way too many collectors worry too much about the grade instead of buying a card they enjoy for what it is.
Thank you for watching and for your feedback! 😊
Spot on man. Great video!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! 😊
Happy collecting!
100% agree buy singles the smartest and easiest way to go! Especially you can physically see the card and decide either you want to buy or look at another card!
That's a good point. Most people are only interested in a few cards per set so buying the single is always the most cost-effective way.
Thanks for watching and happy collecting! 😊
I am only looking at vintage (1999, 1st Editions). I’m buying the few that I want, graded, with the hope to have them all regraded by Beckett (I love those slabs) with sub-grades. (These will all go into my new personal collection). I’m buying all 8’s and up.
Q: Are there any tips or strategies to help with the regrading score?
I’ve seen some channels that crack slabs, clean and press the cards and can get an increase.
Thanks for taking the time to read and help!
Considering that a base set 1st edition Charizard is roughly $10,000, this will still be an expensive set to complete. 😄
As to your question: Yes, you CAN do that and also follow the tips you just described. However, it's VERY risky business. The big issues to look out for: Hidden surface errors, white edges, and centering problems. These will decrease the score the most and you might end up with an even lower grade.
I do enjoy buying lower-graded cards and either getting them regraded or simply keeping them for my personal collection. However, I never attempt to flatten any cards as I am too worried it will lead to surface damage. I simply send them in for regrading if I believe they have a chance.
Hope this helps! I will put a "grading 101" video on the backlog! 😊
Thank you for commenting and happy collecting.
@@JuliusCollectsVery helpful, thank you! 🤝
Pokémon is cheap just to buy the cards you need for your deck, if it was magic I’d just say proxy lol
That's an excellent point for players actually! When buying playsets you also don't need to get all of them in NM quality and instead save money when buying lightly played versions.
I mentioned the same thing in my "how to start collecting video".
Thank you for your comment! 🔥
Sketch comedy...hell yes!
I'm so proud of myself for that one! 😂
A couple of questions!
1. What’s the maximum price per booster pack you’d pay for a normal/still in print set? I’ve avoided paying MSRP, but I’m still not sure what is considered a “good” price per booster pack when I’m browsing online.
2. Are sets often reprinted? I’m trying to collect a complete (not master!) set of S&V 151 and having a hard time finding ETBs or bundles.
Thanks for commenting! 😊
--> 1. Any pack price under 2.75$ (USD) is generally a steal today. 3$ - 4$ is pretty standard. Anything above only if the product (Collection box, ETB, etc) has promo cards I really want and cannot get cheaper as singles.
151 is one of the "special" sets where you cannot buy booster boxes. That makes it a bit more costly than regular releases.
For "regular" sets like the newest Twilight Masquerade or Temporal Forces I aim for booster boxes at around 100$-120$ (~2.7$ - 3.3$ per pack) or Elite Trainer Boxes at under 30$-40$ (~3.5$ - 4.5$ per pack).
Please remember shipping and taxes so the exact price may vary at your place.
For 151 the pack prices will be more in the 4.5-6.5$ range per pack but don't forget that most boxes here also include nice promo cards.
Other people want to get the "Pokemon Center" stamp on their Elite Trainer Boxes so they're happy to pay a higher price per pack in exchange.
--> 2. Whether a set gets a reprint or when depends largely on the demand. Lost Origin, e.g. was out of stock a couple of months before it got another big reprint. The EU usually gets restocks a few months after the USA/Canada, so again... it may depend a bit on your location.
151 has been reprinted a couple times (especially the Japanese version) and I have read rumors that we will see a reprint in a couple of months or sometime before Christmas.
I know many stores in Canada & the US still have lots of 151 ETBs and they are pretty abundant in Europe, as well.
Hope this helps and happy collecting! 🔥
@@JuliusCollects Thank you for the detailed answers! Super helpful!
Glad it helps!
Let me know if you have further questions. 😊
nah, my eyes are always smaller than my wallet. I am chinese.
😅 Lucky you!
Time for a spending spree then. 🔥
Thanks for watching!