Scale model pre and post shading for beginners.
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- čas přidán 1. 12. 2021
- In this video I will show you pre and post shading in the easiest way possible, using only Tamiya paint and Mr Color thinners, and in the simplest terms explain why we do it. I will use a Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire and a Revell 1/32 He-111 wing to demonstrate. If you would like to contribute to the channel.. please look here.. / nigelsmodellingbench
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This is a PROPER, hands on modelling channel, and I'm chuffed I've found it. No stupid background music here...... just an experienced, talented modeller telling / showing you how it's done! As a relative beginner, this is a breath of fresh air, and very informative.Many thanks👍🙂
Thanks. Much more to come.
Interesting demo. I think in principle pre-shadeing is a valid idea in that it can suggest less than perfect flat panels in places as could be true on the real thing. Trouble is it`s done woefully overscale in most cases. One person put a pic up of there job on a kit and it looked like you could have a game of chess on the wings, or Spiderman had been in the vicinity slinging web around. I think post paint job weathering is superior ,if it is done well . Looks more realistic.
I've been in this wonderful hobby almost 50 years but I enjoy refreshing on the basics periodically. This is a terrific tutorial, you're always such a great teacher Nigel. Very methodical, at a reasonable pace and to the point.
Awesome, thank you!
At the end, my eye was drawn towards the effect with the brown. Thanks, I just got an airbrush/filter for my shop compressor.
That explanation resolved so many issues for me as far as the thickness of my airbrush lines, ty
This will be useful Nigel, looking forward to the next one, but take your time! Regards JH
(Old) beginner here. Thanks for the explanation and tips
Welcome!
Thanks Nigel, I never seen the shading, so im pretty intrested in this approach. Perciate it.
You are correct about the brown pre shading, it looks much better.
you answered 1:47 why so many (incredible) modelers over-exaggerate unrealistically the panel lines
Nice touch, Nigel. The brown adds a nice variation,
Dane
Glad you like it
Thanks Nige. This is the sort of video that really helps me build confidence in finishing techniques. Looking forward to the next one.
More to come!
@@NigelsModellingBench also working my way through your Big Bad Buff build, which is proving helpful as well
I need to get the weathering done on that, then it's finished.
Being new to model building I really enjoyed this video. I have been reading modelling books on how to do things but it is always nice to see an actual demonstration.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant Nigel thanks for showing this regards Fred
As a new modeler I can not thank you enough for this video. I have watched hours of videos and not seen this subject described as well as you have done. I look forward to more beginner videos like this.
You're very welcome!
Anymore fantastic information and my brain will explode 💥 excellent video mate 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi nige great video for beginners like me as I'm old school brush paint and just purchased my first airbrush
Funny you should say that about the choice between Mr Rapid Thinner Vs Mr Levelling Thinner for these techniques. I use MLT and don't get the bleed through. Can't get enough of how flat/smooth (surface wise rather than matte finish wise) it goes down with MLT.
Really forgiving of a wet coat (which is definitely NOT the case when I paint minis with water based acrylics!😅)
I'm more of a blackbasing guy than a pre-shading guy though, so that might be the difference.
Solid video though. Nice breakdown of the whys and more importantly the hows. Should be useful for the intermediate taking the next step.
Excellent shading tutorial Nigel.
Very Good Content!
I dont believe the term 'unrealistic' should be used to describe either Pre-Shading and or Post-Shading.
They're simply modeling techniques used to generate an affect. Obviously, if overdone they reduce the presentation of the model.
When painting fine lines do not remove your finger from the trigger: keep it down and move it forward upon completion of the line.
Taking your finger off the trigger completely stops the flow of air over the needle, accelerates the drying time of any paint accumulation on the needle tip and produces the splatter effect you are describing when the trigger is depressed again.
You have just explained exactly what I showed in the video. Thanks for that.
Best explanation of airbrush i've seen yet. Really enjoyed your video
Glad it was helpful!
@@NigelsModellingBench I know what you mean about not finishing things. six tanks and the Tamiya 1/32 Mustang still waiting for decals
Excellent video and well put together with clear advice for people who are new to these techniques, I will be sending people this way who want to know how to achieve this, top job 👍
Awesome, thank you!
I’ve been building models for a long time. Always learning something new.
Thank you Nigel. I’m a big fan of subtle shading and weathering. Stay safe
I have seen it work for the better. Especially on Pacific theater aircraft. I have never done this though. My brother did not dabble with weathering at all. All models he did were factory fresh.
Another excellent how to video from you Nigel. So clear and helpful. Many thanks again.
Thanks Nigel. As someone else mentioned, hands on and honest. I am back into modelling after some 20 odd years and it's an interesting hobby. I agree regarding subtle. You cannot scale down the light (I think Francois Verlinden used to advocate dropping colours a bit lighter on small models) and it's all very subjective. Some I think have never seen the real thing and as you point out, the camera does lie. It lies like hell with a much poorer perception of light and colour than us. Really nice explanation and demo, not sure it is for me but I am still getting to grips with modern paints (I prefer lacquer tbh). I think the reason folk don't like to mix in the bowl is that you risk getting brush hairs etc catching paint in the nozzle. I avoid putting anything but thinners or tool cleaner through mine unless it's a strip down but it is what it is. I have seen some examples of weathering lauded by Airfix and the like that to me were just fantasy. One in particular was close to my heart as it was one of our aircraft (Lynx Mk 7) and it would never have been allowed to get that worn or dirty...and composite doesn't chip or wear silver🙄. Bit of an insult to the time spent looking after the things (even more so in wartime oddly as cleaning shows problems and highlights leaks and fretting) so I am with you. Subtle. Perhaps I will get it right one day😁...for me anyway. Cheers chap. CBA
Hi Nigel, A great hands-on vid, good sound, no music & very informative. You mention using black and the orange-like colour...
We see black, as black absorbs all colours of the spectrum, white reflects all colours...Why black can be too strong...your orange-like colour works better, as you said more suttle. Perhaps a small amount of the overal colour mixed with the Pre-Shade colour would help
in the suttle effect also. As you say, colour (& its effect/s) is a very personal thing...Perhaps its more about technique, someone begining is looking for, practice, practice, absorb & enjoy. Your vids are a great start. Many thanks.
I am by no means an expert but i do alot of spraying on motorcycle parts and also modelling but i still enjoyed the video and think its great that u are sharing knowledge/tips and experience with others that may need it 👍
Ah yes! 50 frames per second. Much smoother Nigel. 👍
Interesting video thanks. I might have a try at a version of this but with brushes, as a non airbrush beginner.
Excellent video Nigel very informative,,, thank you 👍
Thank you so much for your wisdom on this, such a great teacher. You have helped me immensely and my models are looking better. I’m even using the techniques you have shown on miniatures. Much respect to you sir. Liked, shared, subscribed.😊
Very nicely done. I’ve been modeling for two years and was a little confused about this technique. I have a much better idea now. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial Nigel, thanks.
Thanks for this Nigel, another smashing video. Really helpful as I am new to the mysteries of the airbrushing techniques particularly in regards to pre/post shading and blackbasing. Looking forward to seeing the next one. Thanks again👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Top job yet again Nigel.
Nigel thank you very much for this once again you explain things in a way that can be understood. You make it all so I can understand it. Btw loving the spit.👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
I built models from the seventies until 1984. In that time, I never saw these techniques such as pre, post shading. Does anyone know when these came to be?
Great vid Nigel............. 👍👍👍
Hey cool applications, providing in you're face example. Thank you.
Interesting video, Nigel. I use artist pens for aerelon joins sponged out a little with dampened cotton wool buds and the same for other more distinct lines. I use dry dusted pigments on wider less pronounced areas - exhaust, gun barrels and just a shade around panel lines. Each to his own thanks for the video.
Great little video! I actually bought a couple of the Bartsharp airbrushes after watching your earlier video about them, and I'm very impressed so far, I actually prefer using them to my Iwata ! I'd love to see how you can make improvements on cheaper kits such as altering profiles etc, as I don't have the confidence to start chopping into and expensive kit.
I love pre-shading for a beginner it removes the toyish look in a heartbeat. If the effect is to stark simply mist another coat of paint over it. It may not be accurate but we are trying to make a representation of the object. We want something that draws your eye on the model. In my noobish opinion it is a great base to start the weathering
Well done ..you could be a great teaxher..I have learned a lot from your videos ..😀😀😀😀
Glad to hear that!
Most excellent. Many thanks for this.
Thanks for showing and explaining this 😉
Well done..I've learned a lot from your video.😀😀😀
Glad it was helpful!
I've preshaded with a darker tone of the finish colour, so in this case, I'd have toned down the blue with some black or dark grey and persuaded the panel line/detail... Works well. A bit more subtle.
This will be useful Nigel, looking forward to the next one, but take your time! Regards JH😉
Thanks 👍
I'm another returnee to the hobby after decades away and found this video very useful. The one thing i'm struggling with is luftwaffe mottling with the airbrush. Tried low pressure, very thin paint but can't get consistent results. Not sure if you've covered it before but a video of how you tackle it would be very helpful.
Hi Rob, I am just finishing up my Ta-152 from ZM. I'll cover it when I paint that. I'll go with 90% thinner, probably Mr Hobby Rapid thinner, and a 0.3 nozzle at about 10 psi.
Thanks for that. Great channel content btw
Personally I found mottling easier if you add distance as you proceed down the sides - sort of a pull-away as you drop approach. Sometimes repeat strokes does it best, very faint. Hope this helps, best wishes, Dane
Very professional 🤙
another great video , thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great tutorial as usual Nigel. Are you able in the future to do a tutorial on difficult paints as I have a problem using yellow, white and silver. I am sure there are others out there who havecthe same difficulties using these paints plus more.
Sweet Nigel..maybe a video using the brush method.
I wouldn't try this with a brush, other than perhaps dry brushing the shading over the base coat??
I'll give it a go and if successful I'll video it.
Could you please create a new playlist for this series of basic techniques. It will be invaluable in referencing back....Thanks.
Sorry, YT is not allowing me to create playlists for some stupid reason??
@@NigelsModellingBench In that case could you give each one a generic title and sequence number (with sub-title to show the specific aspect of the tutorial)? EG "Basics for Beginners #1 - Pre and post shading"
Excellent video Nigel. I have just taken up modelling again after nearly 50 years!, love it, its very relaxing.Could i ask, is there a difference in painting on the pre shading as opposed to using the spray gun? as if you are overlaying with thin coats do you get the same effect?. Thanks
You can experiment with all sorts of different options and see what result you get?
@philjones6054 said it ! Thanks!
Thank you sir!!!!!
Most welcome!
Hi Nigel, fantastic video as always.. Can I ask is this technique only for airbrushing or could it be done when brush painting?
I think you could post shade with drybrushing?
I wanted to ask you about the nose kits you talked about for the B-52 G/H models.
Ask away.. email me at nigelsmodellingbench@gmail.com
Just wondering if Mr color mahogany surfacer 1000 would be good to use on grey primer for preshading ?
Yes, if thinned sufficiently
Thanks again... I struggle so much with paint, if I thin it as much as people say to it seems like it ends up just watery and spidery, I can get a decent paint job by thinning it less but it seems like preshading would just be lost. Painting is like the worst for me :/
I will do a basics video to show you what you are doing wrong.
@@NigelsModellingBench that would be appreciated!
I’m in the same boat, look forward to that vid
Very good instruction video Nigel, unfortunately I'm a brush painter. Would you suggest to try oil paints to achieve a similar effect?
I guess you could, by drybrush/stippling the shading on top of the base colour?
Pre-shading can be done with heavy'ish drybrushing. I've tried it and it does work. But I agree with Nigel- less is more.
I use oil paints with a brush, after several coats of gloss, as a post-shade on the base colours. Great effects with white on ocean grey and yellow ochre on dark green.
Thank you both I'll give it a go.👍
Is there a chance that the "dirty thinner" technique at the end will wash away the paint thats already veen put on the model?
No, the dirty thinner used is oil based, the paint is acrylic.
On a different note Nigel what’s the best base colour for red, yellow and white TIA
I always undercoat yellow with white. I always undercoat red with yellow.
@@NigelsModellingBench thanks Nigel
Thanks , can you tell me the nozzle size you were using ?
That was all done with a 0.3mm nozzle and needle mate.
What type of compressor are you using? It sounds very quiet.
It's an Iwata.
Just a comment
for the algorithm
Has anybody got any experience of Copper State Models and Gallery Models? I want to try at least one model from every manufacturer.
AFAIK CSM are awesome, I built their armoured car in a video series. Search my channel for "Copper State". I've never built Gallery, but I believe they are old Asian kits??
Can you do this without an airbrush
Yes, but it will take some time and skill.
and poly caps lol
I read your username wrong by accident