Great video. Thank you. It is humbling to see that the gentleman showing us the procedure seems to be stranded at a corner in the middle of the street, and even in those circumstances, he takes the time to make other people's lives easier. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video. Looks like you're doing the work in the middle of an intersection.....bravery. I've got a Dodge Avenger 2007 - 2014 & they changed up the suspension design on the rear. The outer bushing on that Tow link has been moved to the Knuckle. Otherwise it looks the same. Also the Camber link on your Caliber looks to be a flat metal "plate" with a bushing on either end. On the Avenger, it's a rod with a bushing on the inner side & on the outer side the bushing was also moved to the Knuckle. The trailing arm was changed too. Caliber : looks like trailing arm & Knuckle my be the same piece. Avenger : trailing arm has bushing on the chass side & bolts via 3x bolts to the Knuckle.
If you take a four and a half Grinder. Grind the edge of the lateral arm bushing. Then clean the rubber off. Then heat up the bolt. Spray with PB blaster and or something similar. Let it sit for a little bit. Then take vice grips to clamp on the inside of it. Put your socket and ratchet on the bolt and start working the back and forth. I have not had one that hasn't come out that way. It just takes a little bit of time.
Thanks for the video and details information. I got parts and doing them today, only the bolt and nut on rear left near to break drum that i am worry .
Dude like 'the- heck' for sure I was surprised that I found it on Amazon. Got a 2010 jeep patriot and, yeaaah, no way to savage the bolts. Nowhere around me doesn't have it.✌special order✌
i have a 07 caliber base and the rear wheels have a negative chamber and i changed the upper and lower controll arms would doing the toe links fix that
This was so long ago I can't say I had any issues like that. Are your talking about the camber alignment bolt? Or the other one that goes to the welded nut
If the toe link looks twisted at all you need to jack up the strut more than the bolt should move more freely. The bolt on the tire side came out pretty easy when the toe rod was not twisted. The alignment bolt end I had to cut I could not get it free
@@bestworst1979 15 mm on the alignment bolt nut it came off no problem but I couldn't get the washer off to save my life. That's when I cut the bolt. The nut on the tire side is welded to the hub on that side so all you get is a bolt no nut comes off that end
buddy i have a 2012 dodge avenger and them bolts would come out i was thinking of cutting them off ,but where can i get them brand new is it a dealer part
I ordered them off Mopar with the part number. They were 55 bucks for the washer nut and bolt. I seen a set that came with the links online on carid.com I think but they were out of stock at the time.
You can order the parts all together if they are in stock. Nobody had the whole kit when I did it. I ended up spending 55 bucks at mopar directly for all three pieces of the alignment bolt.
I was gonna say,it wasn't a Buffalo/Western NY vehicle.I just ordered the bolt kit ahead of time.LOL I was also replacing the whole rotted out crossmember.
If I remember correctly the inside has a welded nut on the back so I was able to just put a rachet with a low profile socket on it to remove it. May have used a swivel as well I can't remember
Great video. Thank you. It is humbling to see that the gentleman showing us the procedure seems to be stranded at a corner in the middle of the street, and even in those circumstances, he takes the time to make other people's lives easier. Thank you.
Haha that's at my house at the beach but thank you! It was a car I was fixing for an old lady. Figured I could help you guys out too
Thanks for the great video. Looks like you're doing the work in the middle of an intersection.....bravery. I've got a Dodge Avenger 2007 - 2014 & they changed up the suspension design on the rear. The outer bushing on that Tow link has been moved to the Knuckle. Otherwise it looks the same. Also the Camber link on your Caliber looks to be a flat metal "plate" with a bushing on either end. On the Avenger, it's a rod with a bushing on the inner side & on the outer side the bushing was also moved to the Knuckle. The trailing arm was changed too. Caliber : looks like trailing arm & Knuckle my be the same piece. Avenger : trailing arm has bushing on the chass side & bolts via 3x bolts to the Knuckle.
You gotta love the redesigns. Still similar from previous iterations but definitely different
If you take a four and a half Grinder. Grind the edge of the lateral arm bushing. Then clean the rubber off. Then heat up the bolt. Spray with PB blaster and or something similar. Let it sit for a little bit. Then take vice grips to clamp on the inside of it. Put your socket and ratchet on the bolt and start working the back and forth. I have not had one that hasn't come out that way. It just takes a little bit of time.
The tighten loosen method is tried and true! Can definitely save you from snapping bolts in most cases!
Thanks for the video, Would have been worth mentioning that the lower bolt on the toe link is a bear - no room for the nut.
I didn't have any issues with the lower bolt. I have heard a few people mention this though. Sorry I didn't talk about it more!
Thanks for the video and details information. I got parts and doing them today, only the bolt and nut on rear left near to break drum that i am worry .
I hope it went well!
I did this on a Jeep Compass, what a mother bear of a job! The replacement bolt cost as much as the arm.
Got the arms for 40 hardware was 55 :/ gotta love that mark up
@Muzik Michael I think that's about what I paid from Mopar. Hope it goes well!
Dude like 'the- heck' for sure I was surprised that I found it on Amazon. Got a 2010 jeep patriot and, yeaaah, no way to savage the bolts. Nowhere around me doesn't have it.✌special order✌
i have a 07 caliber base and the rear wheels have a negative chamber and i changed the upper and lower controll arms would doing the toe links fix that
Yes. that is the only way to adjust the rear alignment
My bad luck it stuck on the other end … one side bolt welded while nut stuck in bushing…? Cutting is not solution… anyone hav that kind experience ?
This was so long ago I can't say I had any issues like that. Are your talking about the camber alignment bolt? Or the other one that goes to the welded nut
how did you get bolt lower out i am having a hell of a time the one u had issue with came out easy for me
The bolt closer to the tire? Or the bolt with the alignment washers
If the toe link looks twisted at all you need to jack up the strut more than the bolt should move more freely. The bolt on the tire side came out pretty easy when the toe rod was not twisted. The alignment bolt end I had to cut I could not get it free
@@duereviews791 bolt closer to tire thge other one is out was easy
what did you use on nut side of bolt i cant seem to find anything to fit
@@bestworst1979 15 mm on the alignment bolt nut it came off no problem but I couldn't get the washer off to save my life. That's when I cut the bolt. The nut on the tire side is welded to the hub on that side so all you get is a bolt no nut comes off that end
buddy i have a 2012 dodge avenger and them bolts would come out i was thinking of cutting them off ,but where can i get them brand new is it a dealer part
I ordered them off Mopar with the part number. They were 55 bucks for the washer nut and bolt. I seen a set that came with the links online on carid.com I think but they were out of stock at the time.
@@duereviews791 ok thanks buddy
My bolt came out 🤷🏻♂️ with a cutting torch 😂
Haha. That's definitely one way to do it
number of dice you used
What size range did you use
What do you mean by that?
Like what size of socket (in mm) or wrench did you use to get the bolts out
@@abetsuma8448 i think i said in the video. What i did not you will have to look it up. Its been so long since i worked on this vehicle
Where can i get the replacement bolts??
You can order the parts all together if they are in stock. Nobody had the whole kit when I did it. I ended up spending 55 bucks at mopar directly for all three pieces of the alignment bolt.
@Muzik Michael my dealer will want the $116.24
Or the part number for the bolts can't find em anywhere
must be southern car.My Ontario car is a bucket of rust and rot.
Ocean city so a little south. Who knows where it actually came from.
I was gonna say,it wasn't a Buffalo/Western NY vehicle.I just ordered the bolt kit ahead of time.LOL I was also replacing the whole rotted out crossmember.
Dude you skipped the fucking inside. I wanna see how you got that into the tight spot
If I remember correctly the inside has a welded nut on the back so I was able to just put a rachet with a low profile socket on it to remove it. May have used a swivel as well I can't remember