Engine Reassembly Begins
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Longish video on the engine reassembly process. There are periods without commentary so it’s a bit like those building a log cabin videos. Feel free to fast forward!
#yamaha #RD #motorcycle #engine #rebuild #assembly #classic
That’s great you’re willing to give up your own time to teach others
@Repair & Rideout
That guy has done a great job for you . Nice work. Its great to see some one taking such care overa re-build . I have been re-building engines for over 35 years ans i see so many people rushing the job and then failing to acheive the correct result . Nice work . Take your time and i am sure that it will work out fine for you. Its all about care and attenion to detail 👍👍👍
Thanks. I’m sure there will be hiccups along the way
I served my time in a country garage and then the RAF as an aircraft tech. Its a shame that its all gone now . We need to teach our young guys and girls the old school ways . Hand filleing to .50 " and hands on use of tools etc. Not just book work . I teach anyone who wants to learn at any age basic and advanced engineering. Drilling tapping and many other skills. I am not at all a book person but hands on.
It’s great that you’d give up your time to teach others
It's a few years ago now but I bought my tube of Yambond from Fowlers in Bristol.
Great video again mate looking like a really good rebuild its gonna be well worth the effort you're putting into it , I was a crankshaft grinder for 25 years and I agree engineering skills have become virtually non existant in the last 30 years very sad , good luck with rest of the build, all the best from kent 👍
threebond is the same as honda and yamabond. you can use a small paintbrush to spread the threebond with. Much easier. nice vid.
The three bond is pretty good stuff,I used it on my gt750 back in 2002 & when it’s was rebuilt in 2019 it was still sticky & was easy to remove
Thanks for your comment. It did seem to work well
The rebuild is coming together nicely. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, old motorbike ownership has its real ups and downs
@@RepairandRideout Yes, it does. Hopefully, in the end, you will be enjoying you vintage Yamaha, and the satisfaction of doing most of the work yourself. Ride safe.
Although I’m generally not a fan of two strokes, I am enjoying your videos and your bikes.
A bit late, but just a word of caution with the sealant. Remember, what oozes out happens on the inside as well and could possibly be problematic, so apply sparingly. A clean small paint brush is ideal to spread it before assembly if required.
Good work though, it’s looking excellent.👍🏻
Thanks for your advice, I have tried to take off as much surplus as possible
Yes - it's too easy to think that more sealant will decrease the chance of leaks! The mating faces will have been accurately machined (even on a 70s bike) and so the sealant only needs to seal the machining marks and any small scratches. Far better to apply it *sparingly!* from your finger tip in a dabbing motion so you get a bit of an 'artexed' texture. The sealant layer should be thin enough that it is almost translucent. Because of the smaller volume of sealant, when clamped it will seal without too much being extruded out the edge of the joint. If you want to exercise your brain, calculate how wide a 3mm circular section of sealant spreads to when clamped down to less than 0.01mm - you will be surprised!
I also always try to think about where the sealant is actually needed - so for instance, you would need a seal around the periphery of the 'crank chamber' and the 'gearbox chamber' in your crankcases, but if there was also a mating surface which projected into either of these, but didn't subdivide them, what is the point of putting sealant on it?
Threebond is bloody expensive (I know, I use it!) but I would say that you could have used a quarter of the amount you did and still have a perfect seal.
While I'm blathering on, re the porting - any particular reason you are thinking of doing that? It was fine in 1976 when you had to try and have an edge over your mates' bikes for the races down the bypass, but now I don't think you'd even notice any difference in power - unless you ported it out radically, and then I'm sure you'd be complaining about the lack of tractability, poor idling etc. I know I would, but then again I am incredibly dull :D
Keep it up - great videos and a lovely bike....!!
Very true what you say about engineering . When I did my degree in electrical and electronic engineering we still had to spend 12 months in a machine shop making things. The alternative to A levels and a degree was straight into an engineering apprenticeship at 16 and many of my friends would have got degrees if they hadn't had to get into work as soon as they left school.
You have to ask - how bad will the government let things get before doing something ?
I guess we just outsource all of our engineering work and buy in the finished product. Personally I think this is an error on the part of government and commerce
@@RepairandRideoutSadly it's no error, many leaders/governments of Western countries have signed up to this Great Reset agenda, destroying our society basically to "build back better" they say.
Takes me back to when I had a 400F.
Pleased you’re enjoying it
Lovely rebore job. I think I mentioned it before but dry build the top end and check your squish. Three bond is ideal for 2t cases.
I’ve read up I. Checking the squish, use 1.8mm soldering wire through the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. Remove the wire and measure it to determine the squish?
@@RepairandRideout 2mm solder, cut two pieces long enough to span the bore, north to south, east to west and use a blob of plasticine to hold them in place on the piston crown (I usually do this at about 10mm btdc so you don’t have far to turn the engine to compress the solder). Put the head on and nip it all up, turn engine past TDC ( you’ll feel it stiffen as it compresses the solder then go slack). Remove the head, measure the compressed bits on the solder and that’s your squish. Doing it in one place is in accurate due to piston slop in the bore.
@@gk73man51 When I raced Aermacchi/Sprints back in the 70's we used modelling clay to make sure the valves didn't touch the pistons. A very thin layer on top of the piston then turn the engine over and take the head off. cut the clay and measure how thick it was. Too many years now to remember what the required gap was but valves kissing the piston is not pretty at all.
New video nice!
Thanks
great job lad should be sweet keep up the good work
Really looking forward to getting back on the road
It looked like you had the base gasket fitted to the bottom of the cylinder the wrong way around
Sebastian has done some really great work there , much hope the rebuild goes well
PS: desiel is a good cleaner but smell a bit (!) , myself I used petrol as sometimes IPA can harm rubber seals. ( I presume its not vodka you're using !! )
Thanks. Certainly not vodka far too good to waste. I’m using up the remains of sterilizing alcohol from Covid days!
Just curious, did you replace the crank seals and bearings and rods along with the new pistons and rings?
yes, everything
@@RepairandRideout Cool. I was watching this evening with my wife looking over my shoulder. We, yea we are going to start rebuilding her Suzuki 1975 TS400 this fall. She wants to do the bulk of the work with me looking over her shoulder.
It should be a lot of fun. She inherited the bike from her father when he passed. She wants to ride it at least once.
I will be resurrecting a Harley/Aermacchi 350 at the same time. It should be fun times this winter.
Good videos. You know they are good when it keeps my wife's attention.
@@bryanwhitton1784 I love the TS400, fantastic bike. The Aermacchi 350 is a great classic. Good luck
Great video. Has the engineer chamfered the ports after reboring?
Yes they’ve been done
Where about's in the country is this engineering firm? I'd like to offer my services to such a workshop.