Propane Tank OPD Valve Disassembly | HOW it works & What CAN be REPLACED?
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- This video shows the disassembly of an OPD, (overfill protection device) valve from a 20# propane tank. I also discuss the parts and how they work.
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A technician filling a DOT cylinder, from which this valve comes, will open that maximum liquid level fill screw not to relieve pressure while filling, but rather to see when liquid propane reaches that dip tube and liquid comes out of a small hole in the brass valve body, indicating that the tank is at its maximum liquid fill level (80%). The technician, must however, fill the tank by weight if it a 40lb or less cylinder, so a certified scale and the markings on the collar of the tank are used instead of the maximum liquid fill level valve (sometimes called a "spitter").
Found video while looking to see if my leaking valve can be repaired by tightening or adjusting something. Your video helped me figure out the rubber o-rings on the valve are probably worn, and I am not going to fix it. Will just swap it. Thanks
Glad it helped
I had a tank leak on me where the hose goes in - i was hoping to replace a seal or something but you had to destroy the valve to get that seal out - so no go - back to tractor supply with it and Iost a lot of gas.... thanks for answering my question!!!
An outstanding and thorough video - very helpfiul; thank you for making it and sharing it with us.
I was here looking to see if there's a trick to replacing the O-ring inside of where the hose connects. I get the safety issue with the actual overfill assembly and why it's not serviceable, but an O ring at the external hose connection should be something easily replaced. It's typical for these days that one must replace a $20 assembly when a one dollar rubber part could be replaced. Mine is degraded, but the leak only happens when this individual tank is attached to a Buddy heater or the grill. In regular operation, the generator sucks enough pressure when throttled with the valve that it doesn't leak, so I'll use this full tank of gas before replacing the valve. The tank lives outside under a cover of the generator housing, so it wouldn't pose a danger regardless, and I spray with a soapy solution to check for leaks every time besides shutting off the tank before the generator valve. I'm not buying it at the local brick and mortar to give someone more of my money when I can get it online, even if it is only a couple of bucks. ....I might even leave it as is. This type of built in obsolescence really bothers me.
I greatly appreciate all the hard work you put into this video. It has convinced me that it is not worth the work to try and fix one of these valves.
... and now I know why I should just exchange the tank instead of trying to re[air a busted valve.
Thanks for the tear down. It was interesting.
@@russellhank well, now that I'm thinking about upgrading to a hundred pounder, I might be changing my mind on rebuilding the valve.
Twenty pounders still don't seem worth it for me personally.
I started out watching this as I wanted to know what the valve looked like with the tank upside down. Watched the whole thing as it was very interesting.
On opd valve also known as an overfill prevention device is only allowable for 80 percent filling compacity. Once the cylinder is filled the float should stop at the same length as the dip tube therefore your tank is full at 80 percent. That style dip tube is probably 4.4 or 4.1 inches long. The remaining 20 percent is from the bottom of the dip tube to the top of the cylinder which should only be gas pressure created from propane. Any removal of a dip tube or cut/bent dip tubes are technically called modified as it is a federal offense by DOT if it was to be installed back into a cylinder. Dip tubes are used to allow only 80 percent that way the cylinder is not overfilled. An overfilled cylinder can explode from gas pressure and temperature. If a LPG cylinder reaches the temperature of 120 the cylinder will explode. Every LPG cylinder has a dip tube length stamped on the cylinder for that reason modified valves are a violation of DOT. All filling companies for LPG cylinders are supposed to be set on scales and filled by TW- tare weight only.
You are very knowledgeable, so I’ll ask you… is it possible for a propane bottle to become “waterlogged”? My dumb thinking being full of gas but no pressure to push it out? Or is it an “only liquid under pressure” kind of thing? Thanks in advance.
Was just about to click off convinced that the only way to get thing apart quickly (to harvest the brass) was to just cut it up then you found the bolt, that could be a time saver as opposed to cutting it all up! Thanks for the video!
I was finally able to find a replacement for the rubber "face seal" inside OPD valve main connection point (intake/output point) at a specialty welding supply place. The guy said he does NOT recommend (nor usually sell) replacement seals for OPD "Type 1" valves on 20 lb (standard BBQ style) propane tanks, and the seal, which is actually part of the plunger assembly) should only be replaced TEMPORARILY to use/transfer a full tank of propane into another cylinder, (so it doesn't have to be wasted) until the LPG tank with the dried out/brittle/damaged/disintegrating face seal can either A: be exchanged for a code compliant tank that's had the face seal inspected, or B: The OPD valve is replaced all together. He didn't even charge me for the replacement seal because he normally doesn't sell them. We happened to relate with each other on an unusual life experience that somehow came up in conversation, so I think that commonality help him bend the rules a lil bit in my favor. But OPD valves were designed to add extra safety precautions to the propane cylinder valve assemby, and are meant to be sold as, kept, and remain ONE fully assembled piece/part, which are made NOT to be able to remove and replace parts of it. I'm assuming because it the ONLY part that controls the input and output of a steel cylinder containing a highly pressurized, extremely flammable liquid/gas, and any tampering by anyone other than a highly trained professional could result in an undetected propane leak, possible brain and cognitive damage, severe bodily harm, and possibly death. Plus, actually removing and replacing that face seal is a B¡TCH, lemme tell ya. They really don't want these things messed with in any way. It would have been worth it to just lose the propane I had in my tank and just bought a whole new OPD valve for the all BS and time it would have save me. Sheesh. Buy a new OPD valve. Even if you do manage to find a new face seal and swap it WITHOUT damaging it.. The OPD valves have some kind of failsafe that usually prevents them from working right once they've been really tampered with. So you could go through all the BS of replacing the seal only to have to replace the whole valve anyway. Save yourself the frustration and swear words. Just buy a new valve. It's worth the $30-40 and takes less than 5 minutes to have your tank working good as new.
Great info! Thanks!
That is some excellent information, friend! My propane tank was leaking out of this valve, and I was wondering if I could replace the seal in order to fix it, but after reading your comment, I can see that is a waste of time and should just replace the whole valve assembly. Again, thanks for the comment. I have learned that the comment section and these videos provide some of the best information.
Holy %$#t, you weren't kidding about the tear down!
I didn't need to know this,
but I am glad you taught me anyway!
That part that you said refused to come out and wouldn't, does come out and its a left-handed thread and unscrews using a spanner wrench. The rubber gasket inside can remove and be flipped over around and put back in in case the nozzle rips the rubber.
Someone has disabled 2 of my valves over the last 3 years by removing those.
Thanks for making this video and God bless you!
The valve has an excessive flow valve that cuts the flow to almost off if the flow suddenly increases like if a hose is cut. I have tripped this valve by rapidly opening the tank valve with the BBQ burner valve already open when changing tanks. Did you find this valve?
`Good video, now I know why my 40lb tank stops filling at 6.3 gallons instead of 7.52, they must have bent the shaft while installing the OPD device at the factory.
Gotta love those angle grinders. Nice video guy. Better you do than me. Shows me that the valve on my little tank is something I'll never mess with. Way too much trouble.
Thanks for the info, had someone disconnect my hose and open the valve on my camper. So it maybe didn't all leak out!
Wow ok so total of 5 valves in that. Main, over pressure, purge, over fill, and appliance connection.
I have a question about that float valve. Does it look like it will only block ‘filling’ the tank and allow to escape? I have a new 20 gallon tank that they seemed to overfill. I think it was restricting the escape of gas as well. I had to flip the tank and transfer some liquid into another tank. I used a smaller 20 pound. I think I only needed to take about a gallon out, but that about an hour.
Thanks for the video!
Hey I one that leaks through the handle when you open it. Leak test bubbles revealed this so I guess mine is sealed when the nylon seal is seated and when I open it the gas is going by the double o-ring on the stem. I knew I should’ve just rejected that old disheveled looking tank when I bought a tank swap last summer at a 7-11 in Denver (Monaco & Leetsdale dr). It’s actually very dangerous because a lot of people don’t notice much and with a quick light on the grill they can simply chalk it up as normal because of the smell and it would actually be spewing out from the handle un noticed and kaboom!
That was an interesting video, thanks for making that. I think it would cool to see more really clear closeup shots and another valve next to the one you’re hacking up so it’s less confusing or maybe a still shot done like picture-in-picture so the viewer can stay organized with the gas flows and which stem is where in relation to when it’s on the tank. Once the handle was gone and it flipped from left to right and turned over to show the angle I was in trouble man!
So the OPD float and valve assembly can be removed and discarded. Good to know.
Alas, maybe I missed something, but I never understood how the tank does not leak/discharge when the top tank valve is opened and there’s no resistance to the gas flow. I can’t get mine to flow and have tried resetting it using the conventional wisdom what’s wrong?
been curious, thanks for the lesson
Have a older valve on a 5# tank laid around $75 only used possibly a 1/3 of the tank and the center of the valve is almost closed off on the inside and propane blows out the relief company wants me to ear the cost of getting a f n new tank😢.
What went wrong I always detach each time I don't use it to keep the pressure off the control valve.
Does that float also function as the tip over safety?
Yes new ones have a shaft built to the pivot point of the float that way when being filled the float reaches the bottom of the dip tube and should automatically stop filling.
FYI….. DT3.8 is the dip tube length….. 3.8 inches.
I just purchased two, 40 pound LP Cylinders from Amazon - I took them to a local propane filler and had them filled. They both took 9.2 gallons, which, as I understand it, would be filled to 100% capacity, for 40 pound tanks. I thought the OPD valve was supposed to prevent them from being filled to over 80%. Is that not correct?
A 40lb propane tank contains ~9.4 gallons of liquid propane, so they were filled to the correct 80% amount. The total water capacity will be printed on the tank as well, probably something like 11.5 gallons.
Why did my shut off stem unloosen below handle pull out of valve?
"I have no patience".....cue angle grinder😄
Behold.....A nice chunk of brass....
You got that right!
You sliced it open like a King crab serving.
What was remarkable is that you couldn't back the bleed screw out completly..."All by design"... for all the curious Georges of the world.
If the tank was under pressure and you backed the screw all the way out how would you put it back in? You would lose all the gas.
Can the rubber gasket that meets the nipple of the hose attachment be replaced ?
of course but good luck trying to find the replacement
Good video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
looks like something my wife has worked on.
LOL
How did you put it back together again?..................jk
🙏🏻
So wrong. Everything from the 16 min mark is so wrong. The inside just screws out(reverse tread of course) the inside just pops out and you can replace a spring or o ring easy enough .
Looks like a peeled banana after you got done! ha ha
LOL
Can you provide an exploded diagram please.. nevermind 😂
You stated the video off with misinformation. The float is used to stop at 85% capacity, NOT a specific volume. (I am a LPG certified professional)
Isn't that the same thing i.e. specifically 85% of liquified propane volume?