Nice video. Just a note.....the OEM manual references Loctite 572 for the bolts. It is a thread sealer and prevents loosening from vibration. Applies to all lower unit mounting bolts except the top anode bolt. There are also torque specs for each bolt for your motor that should be followed with use of LT 572. Grease seems to be a common theme on You Tube. It can be used. However, Yamaha is specific on LT 572. When you remove that unit, mark the housing and shaft with a marker. Then align the marks before reinstalling. This sets your splines to the same location in the powerhead when you removed it. Line up the shift shaft and water tube and watch it slip in perfectly every time. When you turn the shaft, you disorient the splines. Just return the orientation to the marked areas when the pump housing is installed and you will be golden. Lastly, you need to use a water container that reaches a height up to the upper plate (well above the level on your video). This will ensure that your lower unit is filled above the pump and the water pressure will allow you to run safely. Always supply water with a hose to keep the level high and maintained. I use a 55 gallon drum that reaches just above the upper plate to completely submerge the lower nit in the same manner it is run in the water.
Just an additional comment on flushing the engine. I have a Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I bought water flush muffs that send water to both sides of the lower unit water pickups.The first time I did a flush with the ears in place and water coming out of both sides of the muffs I did not get water to come out of the tell-tell. I changed the muffs to a single side flow and that fixed the issue. Why the dual muffs didn’t work I’m not sure. I have excellent water pressure and there was good flow to both sides. Now I only use the single side muffs. Good video!
Great video man. Going through almost the same thing. Thing is looking at the comments the pump must be at water level, always thought a impeller type pump would self prime, or draft the water. Our fire engines can draft up to about 8 feet, but a much larger impeller on that. Anyway I like your video's, an ordinary guy type thing with no BS or music. Not to mention we drink the same beer. Good luck with your boat bro.
on the new housing I noticed the piping attached. does that come with it or is that something thats moved over from the old. If it is moved over, does it just slide out?
MakosReef it depends. I have bought the housing with the pipe and without. You can use the pipe from the old housing. The pipe clicks into the housing and if you take a look at the old one you can see where the pipe clicks into the housing. Just take your time and you should be able to reuse the pipe without an issue. If you have anymore questions just let me know.
How did you know something was wrong, my engine had a very little amount of smoke and I started to smell a burn smell and heard what sounded like a bearing squeak.
Just remember when using a tub that the water level be above the water pump. When using the flush ears the water pressure in the hose compensate for the water pump not being below the water level. It sounds weird I know because the water level at speed is below the anti cavitation plate but water pickups are angled to force water to the impeller. Next time you service inspect your drive shaft seal.
Unfortunately, the muffs did not work unless i press the hard against the lower unit with my hands. I think your found my answer. I will have to see if the water goes above the water pump. Great advice man!
Fish On Forte if you can find a lake you can back into and test that way. Easy way to test without taking boat off the trailer and know it’s that or the ears. I use the old round style still never had any luck with those oblong ears never got a good flow of water.
I'm surrounded by Salt and brackish water here. Since I am pretty close to the Ocean (13 miles) I was think I would leave it on the trailer at the ramp test it and if I have a problem, I can still pull the boat to a marina for maintenance. If its good to go, I can take the family to one of the waterfront restaurants.
Fish On Forte I 🙏 you didn’t burn up new pumps. Hopefully you didn’t run in tub to long. Don’t feel alone man we always learn by trial and error. Lord knows I had my fare share 🤦♂️
Nice video. Just a note.....the OEM manual references Loctite 572 for the bolts. It is a thread sealer and prevents loosening from vibration. Applies to all lower unit mounting bolts except the top anode bolt. There are also torque specs for each bolt for your motor that should be followed with use of LT 572. Grease seems to be a common theme on You Tube. It can be used. However, Yamaha is specific on LT 572. When you remove that unit, mark the housing and shaft with a marker. Then align the marks before reinstalling. This sets your splines to the same location in the powerhead when you removed it. Line up the shift shaft and water tube and watch it slip in perfectly every time. When you turn the shaft, you disorient the splines. Just return the orientation to the marked areas when the pump housing is installed and you will be golden. Lastly, you need to use a water container that reaches a height up to the upper plate (well above the level on your video). This will ensure that your lower unit is filled above the pump and the water pressure will allow you to run safely. Always supply water with a hose to keep the level high and maintained. I use a 55 gallon drum that reaches just above the upper plate to completely submerge the lower nit in the same manner it is run in the water.
Just an additional comment on flushing the engine. I have a Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I bought water flush muffs that send water to both sides of the lower unit water pickups.The first time I did a flush with the ears in place and water coming out of both sides of the muffs I did not get water to come out of the tell-tell. I changed the muffs to a single side flow and that fixed the issue. Why the dual muffs didn’t work I’m not sure. I have excellent water pressure and there was good flow to both sides. Now I only use the single side muffs. Good video!
Great video man. Going through almost the same thing. Thing is looking at the comments the pump must be at water level, always thought a impeller type pump would self prime, or draft the water. Our fire engines can draft up to about 8 feet, but a much larger impeller on that. Anyway I like your video's, an ordinary guy type thing with no BS or music. Not to mention we drink the same beer. Good luck with your boat bro.
Thanks. Hopefully, I can get out there and do some fishing this weekend.
The "GROOVE" as you call it is called a "KEYWAY". The key goes into the keyway the way a key goes into a keyhole to open the door to your house
on the new housing I noticed the piping attached. does that come with it or is that something thats moved over from the old. If it is moved over, does it just slide out?
MakosReef it depends. I have bought the housing with the pipe and without. You can use the pipe from the old housing. The pipe clicks into the housing and if you take a look at the old one you can see where the pipe clicks into the housing. Just take your time and you should be able to reuse the pipe without an issue. If you have anymore questions just let me know.
I just did the same thing wish I saw the video a couple days ago
How did you know something was wrong, my engine had a very little amount of smoke and I started to smell a burn smell and heard what sounded like a bearing squeak.
MakosReef I had a little smoke but that was all. Decided to drop the lower unit and check the water pump.
So what else did you do so the water will come out tail
sirauloto1 thanks for watching. I ended up buying a flush bag. If you get one, ensure it is deep enough so that the impeller is below the water level.
Just remember when using a tub that the water level be above the water pump. When using the flush ears the water pressure in the hose compensate for the water pump not being below the water level. It sounds weird I know because the water level at speed is below the anti cavitation plate but water pickups are angled to force water to the impeller. Next time you service inspect your drive shaft seal.
Unfortunately, the muffs did not work unless i press the hard against the lower unit with my hands. I think your found my answer. I will have to see if the water goes above the water pump. Great advice man!
Fish On Forte if you can find a lake you can back into and test that way. Easy way to test without taking boat off the trailer and know it’s that or the ears. I use the old round style still never had any luck with those oblong ears never got a good flow of water.
Looking at your video again those ears don’t work get you some cheap old round ones then push it on from rear of foot they are tight fitting.
I'm surrounded by Salt and brackish water here. Since I am pretty close to the Ocean (13 miles) I was think I would leave it on the trailer at the ramp test it and if I have a problem, I can still pull the boat to a marina for maintenance. If its good to go, I can take the family to one of the waterfront restaurants.
Fish On Forte I 🙏 you didn’t burn up new pumps. Hopefully you didn’t run in tub to long. Don’t feel alone man we always learn by trial and error. Lord knows I had my fare share 🤦♂️