EASY DIY Replace 16v Black & Decker Hand Vacuum Battery How to CHV1410L lithium Cordless Vac
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- How to replace your battery pack. Remove your Black & Decker hand vacuum from the charging base. Move to an area with good lighting, if necessary. Turn on the hand vac and allow it to run down the remaining battery charge. Listen to the sound -- the pitch and rhythm will change as the battery discharges. Once the motor completely stops, proceed to battery removal. Swivel attachments, such as dust collectors, away from the storage position as needed to allow you to tear apart the vacuum. Some Black & Decker vacs won't have this option; on those that do, if you miss a piece, you can move it during disassembly. . Pull apart the housing once the screws are gone. A few of Black & Decker's hand vacuum models vary slightly, so if your vacuum assembles differently, back out the screws that hold it together, instead. Look for the batteries, viewing the vacuum from beneath and toward the handle typically. If you see the batteries, find the lead connections running between the battery pack and the vacuum. Pull gently to detach the batteries. Look for screws holding the motor to the vacuum if your vacuum requires total tear-down instead of the previous battery style. Most Black & Decker units have one screw securing the motor, visible from the bottom of the vacuum near the bowl. Lift out the motor to reveal the final screws that secure the battery cover to the motor. Remove these screws and pull the cover away to expose the batteries. Detach the motor connections, then pull the motor away from the battery casing. Remove the battery leads that remain attached to the batteries, and pry the batteries from the casing. Insert new batteries and reassemble the vacuum according to how you disassembled it. Charge completely to prepare the new batteries for use.
Black and Decker CHV: amzn.to/2IqRciu
3500mAH batteries: amzn.to/3umitP4
4x 3.7V batteries: amzn.to/3SMrSd4 - Jak na to + styl
HOW TO CLEAN STOVE and OVEN GRATES in 5 SECONDS! : czcams.com/video/-AspD-4qknk/video.html
Thanks for this well-done video. I had a very hard time with this repair, though it worked eventually. I think it is best left for people who are pretty skilled with electrical repairs. The cost of the replacement batteries, the amount of time needed, and the possibility of failure makes it something I can't recommend for amateurs like me, especially since a new unit is not that expensive. Here are some problems I had, and some suggestions. First, this unit was not designed to be easily repaired. Parts can come out when it is opened. Take photos when you first get the case open so you will know where the parts and wires go in case they come loose. Note and take photos of the polarities of the batteries and label the case with pluses and minuses. It was difficult for me to get the old batteries out. Others have commented that they are spot welded on, not soldered. I couldn't get them out neatly by trying to pop them loose with a screwdriver, and even using a soldering iron it was very difficult to get the old batteries out, and I have read that the heat of soldering may damage lithium batteries. The thin metal connectors got damaged in the removal process. My attempt at soldering the connectors back to the new batteries did not work at all well, and bends in the connectors as well as lumpy solder made it impossible for me to fit the batteries back in the battery case neatly. It was very difficult for me to fit the outside case back together tightly. After the repair, the unit would not start, leading me to think that the repair had failed. However, after further tightening the screws on the case, and charging the new batteries for several hours, it does now run well. Satisfying, but to me it was not worth the time and frustration. It is helpful to read all of the section titled "How to replace your battery pack." I changed all four batteries. Changing just one bad one would make the repair easier. It might take a minute for the bad cell to feel warm after running the vacuum a few times, in the test for the bad cell.
Some would say you should change all batteries together to keep the set working maximally.
You really don't want to replace one battery in a series like that. It doesn't look like it's balance charging, which is half your problem. 3.4volts is not failed but it's under charged. If you charged that battery up manually and put it back in, it would have helped. All batteries being at 3.6 volts though means your whole pack was dead. They should read 4.2 volts fully charged. Anyway and ultrafire batteries are the worst. Those are panasonic or LG cells already installed and they are high quality batteries and should be replaced with like.
Subparanon I was watching and yelling thay at my screen like he could hear it lol.
So which batteries should I get?
>> If you charged that battery up manually and put it back in, it would have helped
Yeah... no. The charging circuit inside the battery box has an array of resistors for balancing, with sensing wires connected to each cell, so it's unlikely that simply charging that one cell will help. It's a bad cell, and needs to be replaced.
@@KarmaBaby61 Buy and use high drain 18650 cells who made by Sony , samsung , LG , Panasonic Sanyo . For packing battery try to use 1 type of cell model and brand.
I'm experiencing this very problem with mine.
I'll be charging all four batteries separately and will post my results here. Pretty sure this will work, mine's about 3yrs old now and I don't think I've been allowing it to charge as intended.
Thank you for this video, I'll give it a shot for mine (it only runs for a second whenever triggered)
i replaced all 4 batteries with the LG HG2 series 18650 cells, they have more continuous amp output and 3000mah capacity, quite a bit more than what came in the vacuum. it should be able to run harder for longer. so far seems to work fine.
i used some old heavy duty thick copper wire and 2 copper nails with a car battery and a card starter solenoid to spot weld the new batteries in.
i just picked up the bd pivot yesterday, tried it today, going back tomorrow. i give it honestly a C for ~15 minutes performance as the suction (lack of) power was rather underwhelming and a flat out absolute F for battery performance as it crapped out on me after 98% of the driver side was done. and i hear these batteries die out completely in like 2 to 3yrs and the unit becomes paperweight. is there a dedicated person i could take it to who knows how to solder? would it be an electrician or a welder for this repair? if i can find someone to do it i will keep it as my car isn't driven much so a C performance would suffice and a portable car vac which i'm thinking about might be overkill. otherwise it's outta here.
If you could show the reassembly this video would be perfect. I was able to put it back together by going back to the beginning and watching the disassemble. Overall wonderful video and I thank you! This just saved me the cost of a new vacuum. Ours had been ran without the filter and cat hair wrapped around the motor. Using compressed air and a pick with the help of this video I was able to fix. Thanks again!!
Thanks for video.
Ultra fire is one the worst 18650 ever made. Assume this ultra fire cells has real capacity , Nevertheless its wrong work to use it in this battery pack because :
1.this ultra fire are low drain and low capacity cells so they cant provide 20 A current or higher.
2. old cells has different internal resistance , voltage and capasity with new one
The correct way is buying new cells like this Red LG HB7 or buying 4x original high drain 18650 cells like Sony VTC5A or VTC4 , LG HG2 or HD4 or HE4 , Samsung INR18650-25R , 20S , Sanyo UR-18650NSX , Molicell-p26a ... and replace it.
Use 1 cell type for assembling battery
Very helpful. Wouldn't have known how to spec the batteries.
Very helpful....and awesome video.....great job and thank you.
If you are going to replace 18650’s use class A brands like Panasonic, LG, Samsung, Sony and don’t mix the brands replace all with same style brand if you have the money to pay for them but you can just refresh the existing batteries with a good charging unit like the Opus it allows you to discharge them and refresh them back to perfect working conditions.
Very helpful. My vac only had 3 batteries, spot-welds to break, and each was at 3.96v. Makes me wonder if I should have tried to do a few cycles of full charge/ full discharge first to recover? Will look for a manual charge/discharge method before replacing.
Thank you so much for this video! I have the same vac with exact same issue. This is so helpful, and will save me from buying a new vac. Will give it a try!
Thank you so much! I have this exact model and the full charge lasts less than 5 minutes (if that!). Will be doing this mod =D
Thank you thank you thank you.
Great video 👍
Awesome video!!! Thanks so much
Exactly the same problem. These units are made to fail shorlty after the warranty ends. I would replace all the batteries, rather that just one.
Thank you sir. Greetings from Indonesia
Thank you! Very useful.
Thank you for a great video. Both of the purchase links are dead links. After much searching the best battery price I can find is $33 shipped. More than half the price of a 100% new vac. I am going new, what if those $33 batteries do not work well or for long? At $15 I would chance it but not is I am paying over half the cost of a new one. BUT none of that is on you, thank you again for a wonderful video.
Thanks bro .. less impact on the environment as well. For some reason I always had trouble with black and decker product batteries.. smh
Well made easy to use
Very good, but you skipped over the best part - how did you connect the new battery? OIC you soldered it, to existing tab I assume. I thought I was being slick to find a replacement pack, but I suspected it would be almost as much as the entire unit. I prefer this route and will have at it, I can also source battery locally instead of ordering.
I apparently have an older model, having purchased it in 2017.
Cool video. Nice instructions. I was looking to buy batteries for $12 but the vaccum now costs $40 and they have better 18v out now
nope, i got a 20v and it is NOT impressive in any way shape or form. well, that's the ONLY thing that impresses me is it's portability and shape. however that won't nearly be enough to make me keep it UNLESS i find someone who can dependably do this battery swap.
Got my new batteries today and replaced them. Vacuum is working. Let’s see how the running time improves and for how long.
Where did you find the replacement batteries?
Good info, thanks. I have the 3 battery dustbuster lithium, it is black in color. I see that is take 3.7v, 3000mha batteries, but on 18650 battery web site they have batteries with various amps. Which is the right one, 10, 15 or 20amps? Thanks.
What exact type of solder did you use in soldering it back on and did you use a soldering paste?I tried doing this job recently and even make a video about it, it was a struggle to get my regular lead to stick to the top of the batteries especially the (-) side.
Best tip.....thank you so much...
This video is a gem! I was trying to figure out how to split my Dust Buster open. Thank you.
I have an older B&D Model CHV1510 15.6-volt Ni-Cd (nickel-cadmium) Dustbuster and after 10-years, the batteries only hold a full charge for about 1 minute. I replaced my older model dustbuster recently with the CHV1410L model but would like to try and rebuild the old one to use in another room of my home. I'm a retired electronics tech, so I should be able to do it as long as I can find an exact replacement for the battery or batteries. Update: After opening up the old dustbuster, it has 14 cells (very large and heavy) heat shrunk in a removeable pack. (HSD-SC1500P).
HEADPHONE WARNING: beware 3.20 in is a loud vacuum noise.
We have the 20v pivot. Our was intermittent briefly, and now won't charge or start. I checked the charger and it's supplying current. Ideas? It's just dead. Would the fuse prevent it from charging and starting?
Thank you
I need a new motor n543847 motor dc 14.4v for mine any suggestions where I could get one ?
Que bueno subtítulos en español, utilizo esta aspiradora hace años, mi idioma es el Español, ??????????????
Hey so I found your video helpful and informative and I'm going to be grabbing myself a multimeter and some replacement batteries, but I just wanted to briefly ask:
What's it like having 4 arms? At 4:18 I count that you have 4 hands - one on the multimeter, two on the electrodes, and one holding the camera.
Not gonna lie, it took me a second to realize you had someone helping you capture the video, and I was *really* confused when I realized there too many hands for the number of people speaking.
🤣🤣🤣
Best reply ever
1:16 I'm freaked out, this guy has three hands!
Wher do you purchase these batteries i cant find anywhere
Thanks
How do you fix the charging platform?
Does this hand vacuum require protected batteries?
Thank you for the video- wish you would have shown how to solder the battery terminal- I have two of them, about 18 months old. I was reading the ad for these vacuums and it says run time 4 hours- that can't be right- when new, they ran about 8 minutes. Did I have defective product?
No it is not defective the info black and decker gives us incorrect
@@galaxyviews7483 thank you, I also noticed in the second video you did the soldering.
I did this replacement with my 16v vac and it won't run. It charged correctly. Each cell measures 3.74 volts. I have 13.02 volts at the switch. Do you know if that is right? Should it be 16 volts?
3,74x4 is about 15v. one of the two sentences "each cell measures 3,74" and "i have 13v at the switch" can't be correct
This won't work with a HHVJ320BMF (red, gray, & black). It's a little harder to disassemble; not too bad. However, the battery pack is not openable. It's either 1 piece, or very firmly glued together. Try it if you want but the thing is designed to be unrepairable.
There is 24 months warranty for the unit, why not send it back?
Thanks-- would be great to actually show the essential parts of how to do this though...! 😕 Like how to solder it, & if you need to add more materials when you do so-- ...it looked as if the metal part was damaged when you removed the first battery for instance...
And why did you not say what the actual # was on the reading of the third battery? 🤔 And why did it look to be a negative number or something?
the negative number means the battery had zero charge and the meter was reading the adjacent battery in reverse. At the end it shows 3.6V but it has a very small current and cannot be used. How the solder is the biggest question. You need special tools for that. Not recommended with ordianary solder because heating the battery is not a smart thing.
Great video, however, batteries cannot be separated from contact with a flat head. Any suggestions? I can't get mine to separate without breaking.
You should desolder it, breaking it mechanically isn't the best way.
@@adroitus Aren't these usually spot welded on, not soldered?
Be bold. I used a hammer to lightly tap the spot-welds were broken, and harder when necessary. Contact plates survived fine.
Use A soldering iron, to melt the solder. But you have to be careful, too much heat can damage the cell. So You need a hot-enough iron to heat it up quickly, and immediately remove the heat as soon as it is freed. Or, you can simply cut them off, and then use a small piece of wire to re-connect them later, but you still need a soldering iron for that.
I replaced all 4 cells with new, but now it only runs for a few seconds, and stops. Any idea what's wrong?
Hi, thank for the video, i followed your steps and replace all 4 batteries(LGDAHB71865) with (UltraFire 18650 3.7v) on my vacuum (16v Blak & Decker Hand Vacuum) but i am not able to start it. Battries are tested and good. Do you have know what issues i might running into. Thanks
Make sure the connections are soldered on
I changed all my cells because they were down to 500mAH. Now i can't get the base to charge the batteries even though it has supplies the power. The charging light flashes and then stop flashing not long after i plug it in even though the batteries don't get charged and the vacuum shuts off real fast. I think the circuit board is shutting down the charging for some reason.
Where can you find the replacement batteries?
How to solder it back though?
If I use a voltmeter on the bottom of the vacuum on the metal rings will I get a voltage reading?
How to re-assemble???
I can't get so the wires out of the way to small the halves together
Hello; where did you find the replacement batteries? If from eBay, do you have the sellers ID. Thanks
never buy those batteries they are never what they are rated for like any cheap chinese battery buy samsung
Can't you just get AA's from the supermarket?
@@danniifan3115 AA's are 1.5 volts. The ones in the video are 3.9 volts and are rechargeable.
I have a black and decker non lithium ion battery in it... Can i replace the battery with Lithium-Ion?
The battery will run the motor, but it probably won't charge right with the provided charger.
I wish I had three hands!
Mine has a PC board welded to a 5 battery pack!!!
any way to use my Milwaukee m18 packs instead?
This comment made me chuckle. 😆
Those look like vape batteries #18650 I believe brown ones are usually Samsung
Yes I agree. Replacing one battery is a bit of a waste of time, because other cells will likely fail soon afterwards.
In my case, I did the exact same repair on the exact same unit. I replaced two that tested bad, and it was great! But after about 2 weeks of use, it quickly lost capacity. I ended up replacing all 4 and it has been great ever since.
Interestingly, it was the NEW cells that went bad! Why?
This video also doesn't mention about exactly which 18650 to get, you need the "high drain" cell. Most 18650 might put out 3 to 5 amps, but only a few of them are suitable for high-power applications, like power tools and this vacuum cleaner. You need 20-amp cells. Those high-capacity 3000Mah cells are ALWAYS low-current, because they trade-off capacity for current capacity. Usually, the high-drain cells will be no more than 2500mAh.
Example is the Samsung 18650-25R which is 2500mAh and "R" designates the 20-amp capacity.
So, I ended up buying just 2 new high-drain cells, and it has been working great ever since, but I don't expect it to last very long. I have another one I'm repairing now, and I'll be replacing all 4 cells with high-drain Samsung 25R cells. Good luck.
Any consequences for filling that 5th slot and going "20v"? Will it charge ok, need a new bms?
consequence could be with motor... a 20% increase is not a small thing. The least..it will shorten its life, the worst burn it. :-(
Thanks for making this!
I think you should change the 16v to be 14.4v
16v is the maximum combined voltage when the cells are fully charged.
@@dimpsyxx but in 2011 they sold the same model with the same batteries as 14,4V :P
Any chance you could update the links to the batteries? They seem to be dead, and amazon is making it really difficult to find. I would love to use your affiliate links for the purchase. Thanks!
Hello Bob,
My vacuum goes off after 20 second and the next times in a less than time like your vacuum, is its problem landed in batteries? It happens even when it's plugged to the power !
Yes bad battery
Links are dead. What are the exact models of batteries that are needed.
Just like the vac... how ironic.
18650 3000mAh 3.7V
After tossing THREE Dustbusters I purchased a RIDGID hand held vacuum from Home Depot. Battery is removable and you register it for a LIFETIME WARRANTY.. Good bye B&D. Won't be back.
It looks like they are sold out everywhere.
winner winner chicken dinner... for the Mrs.
Were do I get the battery
Any Vape shop
Can I put an old laptop battery in my vacuume battery pack?
12:45 PM
Nice video. I guess that fifth battery spot can be utilized to get a few more minutes of working time, no?
PS. I swear this guy has three hands LOL
You would have to connect it in parallel with the last (4th battery) instead of in series like the rest are, but I think that could work...
Ya totally, as long as its the same battery in the series with the correct voltage. I assume they left it empty to bring the price down on the retail value.
My guess? 3.7 x 4 = 14.4V, which means the four batteries are in series, not parallel. Adding a fifth battery in series will bring it up to 18.1V, which may burn out the motor. Adding a fifth battery in parallel will mean that two batteries will have juice, but three will run out, so I don't think this will work. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
@@antoinebugleboy6864 when i bought my 14,4V (4 cells) in 2011 there were the 10,8v and 18v models too. looking for the replacement (no more available) battery pack of the 18v version, the same enclosure is fitted with 5 cells. so probably the 10,8v versione just had 3 cells. No I'm wondering if they put inside a single motor that worked with all the three packs...with, of course, just worst/better suction powers
Easy-peasy..
👍
One thing that is not spelled out is that you need to solder the terminals once the new battery is put in. Get your DIY skills out!
You're right... these sunday's hobbyist trying to monetize on clueless people. to spot solder on those batteries is a REAL PAIN, and can't be done with normal iron, which will damage the battery. but yeah... they don't tell you that... LOL :-))
You can do this, but get better batteries, like samsung 25R's
It's a matter of time Milwawlkee put out a vac with a replaceable battery. Oh well, they just did
Rigid has 2 one is a dry/wet $50 and it’s a beast
How many hands do YOU have, man??
Mine has never run for more than a few minutes and now it’s down to seconds! I’ve replaced it with a HART hand held with a replaceable external 20volt battery. It runs much longer than the B&D ever did and when the battery fails I can replace it. The B&D is junk and a scandalous waste of resources!
Seems like a 14.8V unit not 16V. (4 X 18650 @ 3.7V = 14.8V). Thanks for the video though, this made me realize Black and Decker is not a very honest company.
Never been one.
Lithium Ion batteries fully charged are 4.2V before quickly dropping down to 3.7 once it drops below 90%. So it's technically not wrong to claim 16V.
I had the DV1410EL that has the same (phisically talking) battery pack with 4 cells and it's marked as 14,4V (4x3,6V). saying this one is 16V it's not so fair :)
While you're at it, build an 4s4p pack with NCR18650GA cells for more than 4x the run time.
replace it with a dewalt 20V battery trust me. Trust me. Use a dewalt adapter
Doesn't it have a lifetime warrant?
Not sure what I’m missing here but why would you replace a 16 V battery with a 3.7 V battery
Ur missing alot....
Doesn't help,wrong style vac,but thanks
Thank you