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Warlord Games | Pike & Shotte Epic Battles Infantry Painting Tutorial P1 Pikes
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- Time for the first painting tutorial for the upcoming Pike & Shotte Epic Battles, first up in the Infantry, and a focus in Pikemen.
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Great video, many thanks!!
Thank you 😊
No new projects, no new projects, no new projects… oh shoot.
😂😅
Don’t you mean shotte
Thanks for thos Stuart, I'm not investing in the ECW but always enjoy watching you paint and I always take something from your videos that I can use in my work.
Thank you 😊
I have just started doing this game system. I did this game back in the day in 28mm. I sold those and got out of gaming for a while. I am now going back into gaming and I liked the look of this scale. I find that you tutorial is very good. Thank you for the help in doing this scale. I love what you shared. Thank you very much.
Thank you, glad you’ve found the video helpful 😊
Fantastic job mate. Great tutorial. These look brilliant. !!!!!!
Cheers dude 😊
When u end up with a museum exhibit "standard".
😅
Great work as always Stuart, you make quick work of an infantry stand in this scale. Awesome!
I do with the video sped up 😂 Thank you though 😊
I'm going to follow you for my 28mm ECW armies.
Thank you, I hope some of what I do is useful.
They look stunning, Stuart! Brilliant job 👍. Thanks for the shout out too 😀. Always happy to bang on about this period. I’m thinking I may leave out the pikemen at porte on my blocks. Partly because they seem to take longer to paint, and also it is the least comfortable way to hold a pike, and so it makes my arms feel tired seeing them at the front of each unit 😆.
😂🤣
Thank you as well, they’re fun models to work on 😊
…also, related to the positioning of the models on the bases, and something Mark Hawkins mentioned in a Facebook comment. Regarding the command strip, would that be better placed at the front of the second Pike stand? It would mean the nicer models were more visible, when in different formation (or just seen after painting 😂), and also represent the flags going towards the back in combat.
@@MiniatureRealms At the start if the battle the ensigns would be at the front of the regiment ‘flourishing’ the colours. Once combat was imminent then they would be back in the centre of the pike block - the safest place. There is therefore some sense to have the flags positioned further back.
Hmmm, I think might be a good solution then, I might just do that. Thank you.
Fantastic as per usual Stuart
Thank you that’s very kind 😊
Nice work. I am going in with these and haven't painted in over 30 years so could be fun!!! I love this period.
Thank you. I hope you have loads of fun getting back into painting.
Great video, very much looking forward to them arriving.
Cheers mate, certainly looking forward to my set as well. Be ready to grab a copy (or two) of Wargames Illustrated at the end of the month.
Magic! Love the look of these 😃👍
Cheers Graeme 🙂
Great tutorial Stuart, they look amazing as always!👍🍻
Thank you Andrew 😊
Really nice tutorial and the unit looks excellent.
Thank you David 🙂
Nicely done Stuart!
Thank you Andrew
Lovely work Stuart, you've done a grand job on them.
Thank you 😊
Look fantastic Stu. Can’t wait to get mine and rushing to get current projects finished or at least parked at a good stage before these hit in April. Great job as always 👍
Thank you Stevie 🙂
Excellent work mate, brilliant tutorial, uniforms can be a pain for sure but you have hit the nail on the head with these. Looking forward to seeing more 👍
Thanks mate 😊
Excellent tutorial certainly inspired me to add these to my list 🥳
Thank you Andy, you should definitely give them a go.
Thanks! Another great tutorial
Thank you 😊
Nice work as alawys mate, they came out really nicely!! Your work with the contrast paints is just outstanding.
Cheers mate 🙂
Good stuff, now to await mine!
Thank you 🙂
Lovely painting.
Thank you 😊
Superb . I have been painting smaller scales for some time now as the detail now matches that of the larger 28mm models. The best tip I can give when painting a coloured regiment eg a red regiment is to obtain a few different reds from the various contrast/speed paint ranges and use them on the same unit. That will avoid the uniform samey look ,for which you want to avoid for the ECW .Great stuff and looking forward to your future videos for this era.
Thank you Garth, that’s a really good tip. I plan to do a tutorial for regiments with red coats in the future, I’ll try that out.
Welcome to the world of the ECW uniform lottery. I’ve been researching uniforms for my current 28mm ECW project, we’re focusing on the battle of Cheriton as we have found a bit more info on the regiments present. As you said there is a freedom to painting the units as to shade and coat colour, and then there’s the flags………….Nice work on these.
Thank you 🙂. I think I’m going to risk painting a few ‘generic’ units as well, mostly buff, but with some faded colours added in, one with a few Blue coats, another with a few Red. I feel that way they could represent quite a few regiments, might also upset a few people 😂
Another nice video and you’re not far off 5k subscribers, so you’re clearly doing things right.
I think I’ll be going for an even simpler buff scheme throughout with some trouser variation as you suggest. I want a force that can be used for either Royalist or Parliament so I’m going to let the swap-out flags do the heavy colour lifting. Mine will be a generic ECW force to keep the painting simple as I don’t want to get bogged down in Napoleonics and ECW at the same time. Fortunately my ACW Union is done and on the table and that’s where I want to be with ECW whilst I button count my way through the Waterloo Anglo/Dutch.
Thank you John, yeah 5k seems to be creeping up, looks like just in time for 2 years since the first video upload (March 13th I think).
I think I will be panting about half of my forces like you have described, and a buff colour would be the a perfect choice, I’ll do the same with flags as well.
Have you ever done the various historical regiment tutorials, Stu?
I haven’t done more of these I’m afraid. I’d love to have a complete set with different regiments covered, but with the amount of time it takes sadly the returns diminish very quickly (the majority of people don’t watch videos so similar). Always happy to give advice on how to achieve particular colours etc, my Discord is a great place for that.
Very good video. I'm still struggling with this epics, putting too much time in too many layers of colour. 😵💫 Will try this out. 🤞
Thank you 😊
I probably still do too much for the amount I have left to do/how you really can’t tell once on the table.
Nice one mate
Cheers Leon 🙂
Perfekt!
Thank you 🙂
Thank you. I am fully in on epic so far and am getting overwhelmed by numbers and since Epic is now looking like it is going to be ‘a thing’ with more periods to be covered and so have decided to a explore painting in a much more representative / impressionist style .. if I can! It strikes me that the lighter base coat and contrast type paint does seem like it should be a major component of such a style.
I’m with you on the potential for becoming overwhelmed with Epic projects, at some point I’ll have to say no to a period I think 🤣.
But to your question, yes absolutely, but probably as long as you resist the temptation to continue painting and and highlights etc. Depends on the project as well, if ever a single colour covers 80% or more of the mini, I’d be tempted to prime in that colour and quickly add a few details in, that would be the quickest method I think.
I was surprised to hear that the nature and colour of uniforms were harder to establish for the ECW, does Osprey not have information on this? I also get the war began in 1642, well before Cromwell's New Model Army, which was formed to allow them to fight anywhere in the country and at least by this time the Round Heads were issued with uniforms, this being the origin of the "Red Coat" for the infantry. Just wondering.
The further we go back in history, the more we rely on written accounts describing uniform colour, far less contemporary examples divide to the current day. So we get to a point where there is limited or contradictory information that we can’t be 100% sure. That’s not to say we don’t have a good idea though, and for many regiments we can be fairly sure of the colour (even if not the exact shade). Then when we have a lot of evidence, like for the New Model Army, we can say with confidence that they wore red with blue/grey trousers, and yes I believe you’re correct about the origins of the red coat.
You will find Osprey have the usual books on the period, including colour plates, it’s just the information for all regiments isn’t quite as complete as it might be for some other (usually later) periods.
Excellent mate. I am just starting painting a sprue myself and using similar process although mine will be for 30 years war and even less uniform
Cheers Dom, looking forward to seeing yours and how quickly you can do them.
Fantastic video, this makes me all the more eager for April. This set is going to be huge. I can see myself buying 3 at least, 1 for civil war, 1 for the 30 and another for the LOTR custom
Thank you 😊 I love that you’re using these for LOTR as well.
Quick off the mark with this one mate..
Nice work.
Please do tell me where do the painting stands come from.
And do they work well for us left handers?
Thank you 🙂. The painting handles are from Redgrass Games, you can buy extra removable tops so it’s easy to switch. They’re not designed to favour either hand, so you will have no issues there.
Brilliant video as always! Amazing work. I was wondering if would you ever consider doing battle reports?
Thank you Mateo. 😊 Battle reports are definitely on the ‘to do’ list, just don’t have the time right now sadly, but hope to change that soon.
@@MiniatureRealms I look forward to all of your channels progress. It is always a pleasure to watch!
Thank you that’s very kind 😊
So, following this guide has kind of taught me that, uh, it is not for anyone that gets any kind of hand pain. The neatness required to use contrasts legit really hurts your hand XD, I'm like two coats in a full sprue of these and my hand just about fell off XD
Sorry you hear you suffer from than, I did for a couple of years and luckily it went away. These minis look great done in any method on the table though, so get paint on them in any way you can.
I'll stubborn my way through this unit, but yeah I'll probly try some different techniques for others.@@MiniatureRealms
Surely there is an accuracy problem because ECW Pikemen usually wore thick buff leather and gloves for base protection - long sleeved 3/4 length Buff leather jackets capable of turning a sword cut and gloves to protect the fingers in close combat. In addition, wherever possible, pikemen wore breastplates with tassets for thigh and crutch protection and proofed against pistol and musket balls. In battle the pikemen with buffcoats and breastplates with tassets formed the front ranks followed by pikemen wearing buffcoats and breastplates without tassets with those with just buffcoats forming the rear ranks. As such, the pikemen in a pikeblock would be weaing buff coloured Buff Leather coats with the front ranks also weaing fire blackened armour - Fire blackened as Fire Blackened armour does not rust as protected by a high temperature black oxide layer formed when placed in the fire.
It would be highly unlikely to see a pikeman wearing just a uniform jacket OR armour over a uniform jacket!!
Very little armour is found by modern battlefield archeaologists because all the usable armour found on battlefield casualties was recycled by the victorious army to replace or repair damaged armour and distribute additional breastplates and tassets to pikemen with just buffcoats and any overlooked looted by scavengers as for sale or as scrap metal. Pikemen weaing 3/4 length buffcoats and proofed breastplates and tassets where virtually invulnerable to cavalry whose only weapon against them were there pistols needing to get a lower leg or facial shot to injure a pikeman as even the thick buff coat gave excellent protection against pistol balls and sword cuts. In effect the overall amour protection of an armies pikemen would deteriorate with each drawn battle or defeat and improve with each victory.
Any damaged armour would be sent for repair and any amour incapable of repair recycled to army blacksmiths and armorers as scrap metal.
The Buff leather coats worn by ECW Pikemen and Cavalry under their breastplates were not only very effective battlefield protection BUT excellent protection from the weather on campaign to keep men alive and healthy. So much so that in 1916 the British army re-introduced a buff leather jerkin to protect British and Commonwealth soldiers from the code and the rain in the trenches!!!!!!! The were called Buff leather as they were 'Buff' coloured - A light to medium brown leather colour when new.
Thank you that’s very interesting, sounds like these models are sculpted if I’m honest.
The 10 Pikemen at Porte all have blackened armour chest plates, helmets and tassets. There is another ‘strip’ of 10 armoured the same way. A further strip of 10 is without chest plates and tassets, I believe that is to provide some variety where less armour was worn later in the war(s). The command strip is a bit of a mix.
I don’t think it’s argued that they didn’t wear dyed woollen jackets, seems to be referenced in every source I’ve read. I know they wore buff coats as well, and in some cases they might be ‘waistcoat style’ either under the metal chest plate or in place of it. I may go back and paint a few in on the less armoured sculpts on reflection. Still plenty of accounts of ‘less fortunately’ armoured Pikemen as well, so I think Warlord have tried to cover all bases with their sculpts.
@@MiniatureRealms Not waistcoat style buff coats as the sleeves were a vital protection to the arms against sword cuts and even glancing pistol shots and almost spent pistol shots.
About the only totally unarmoured pikemen would be the local militia of the trained bands and newly raised troops BUT they would likely be in normal civilian clothes. At the start of the ECW the local militia trained bands would have been equipped from the local armouries BUT that equipment would have been taken for the regular regiments of both armies.
Sizeable quantities of muskets, armour, artillery and ammunition could be claimed by the victors of a battle from the dead on the battlefield and the captued enemy, especially if a decisive victory like the Royalist victory at Roundway Down known at the time as the Battle of Runaway Down !!!!! in which 1800 Royalist Cavalary from Oxford virtually wiped out the much larger Parliamentary amy of the West. The Royalist cavalry first routed the Parliamentary cavalry and then returned to the battlefield where they captured the Parliamentary artillery and turned it on the retreating Parliamentary infantry retreating in squares and riding the infantry down when they routed capturing the Parliamentary artillery, supply train and the equipment worn by the dead and abandoned by the outers on the battlefield as well as the equipment of the large number of prisoners.
There is no evidence Buffcoats were worn by pikemen, they were not advocated as part of a pikemans equipment in any military manual of the period,? The only examples worn by pikemen being the London trained bands as mainly as fashion garments and some of those were sleeveless. Af ully sleeved buffalo hide Buffcoat cost around £10! Armour over normal coats or no armour was the norm.! The Kings Army at Edgehill had hardly any armour for its Pikemen. Essex Army Infantry lost all its armour at Lostwithiel and it was not replaced. The general decline in the use of armour as the war progressed is generally accepted, mobility and firepower coming into the fore.
Thank you Andy 🙂
Look terrific! Using black and then the highlight technique is something I will have a go at. Could you tell me what brush size you use? I have several very small size brushes, but they can be hard to use. Being 60 (tomorrow), eyesight is an issue also!
Thank you 😊
I use mostly a size 1 & 2, it’s more about the point than the size as such, too few bristles and the paint tends to dry on the brush before you get in to the model, so I try to use the largest brush (with good point) I can for the job.
@@MiniatureRealms thanks that's great info!
a new era of history for us spears are pikes , sashes are scarves break out the 17th century dictionary lol
😂
Excellent video as always Stuart for yet another project you are not going to start 🤣 Figures look great and paint up really well. While still trying to avoid this release (for now at least) I actually think they may paint up a but easier than the Naps overall. Yes there's quite a few colour changes but the detail that needs to be painted is less fiddly IMO and less of it. One thing I like about this release is that it seems from the Warlord site and box art that the default infantry frontage will be 18cm, not 24cm, better for 6 x 4 tables. 18 cm would I think be the smallest though as, unlike ACW / Naps, these would be an absolute pig to split into half size bases, nigh on impossible, so those wanting smaller base sizes will find it a struggle with these.
In all honesty, I think I would probably skip the ported pike on the front ranks, too much hassle when gaming IMO as is pretty evident from the 28mm P&S videos I've seen where they all use very deep bases to cater for the ported. Yes you'd need to buy an extra infantry box to get the uprights but I'm sure, as with the Naps and ACW, there will be 3d prints of pikes out there before long. The other bonus of skipping the ported pikes is that you can have the command stand in the front rank of the front stand, swapping them for the rear stand when closing to engage.
The main negative for me (other than the muskets being too close together) is that the units will be more representational than historically proportionate as the muskets should be as deep as the pike and at a ratio of 2:1. Again you could do it with extra muskets if your'e bothered but it's more figures to paint. That said, if you buy the extra infantry box for the upright pikes you'll have spare muskets too :) The other option would be to skip the second stand of pikes altogether if not using the ported pikes, this would solve the ratio issue and would avoid you needing to buy extra upright pikes but would leave you with 14 stands of unused pikes and doubtless a need to adjust the rules or have some way of denoting Standard, Small and Large units (if they exist in P&S).
You’re not the only person to mention not using the Pikes at Porte, and they were certainly the most fiddly bit, and added the most painting time. I have some ideas for my next regiment.
Still trying to figure out a way to do epic scale painting, I’m far too clumsy and shaky. So far is the muskets that are killing me, trousers and coats and even equipment I’m doing ok on, it’s the stupid firearms. Thank goodness you can play the colored plastic, otherwise it would stay something cool, but not for me.
I wouldn’t worry too much about being super near or accurate, just get rough colours down and play, once based they would look great on the table.
Hey, that sort of codex of all the regiments played at the start where did you get that from man? I just need help finding out what exact regiment to paint my army in.
Just something I found on the internet I think, it was possibly an old Warlord Games article as it’s their 28mm range I think.
@@MiniatureRealms Thanks mate, could you remember where exactly if it's not too annoying mate
Sadly I can’t or I’d happily point you in the right direction. Check the Pike & Shotte articles on their community page.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial Stuart. Just what I have been waiting for. I noticed that you didn’t use a general wash on the figures after blocking in the colours. Is this because you had used the Zenithal pre shading technique?
Very much looking forward to seeing your next video on these.
Thank you 😊
…and yes, I don’t use a general wash very often at all these day, and much of that is down to the process of zenithal pre highlighting and glazes, as that provides some natural tonal changes. The further highlights on top just pushed that further. I generally find basecoating with Contrast/Speedpaint/etc easier (and more pleasant) than regular paints, but if I were to use regular paint, then a wash might come in handy at this scale.
@@MiniatureRealms With you on this. I really went off the general wash approach a couple of years ago since I found I used to spend way too much time going back correcting the colour that the wash had killed where I didn't want it to. The showstopper moment for me was spending AGES doing a load of German splinter camo on 15mm figures which I then washed to give a dirtier look and, as if by magic, no more splinter camo!! Talk about furious! never again after that. At most with any general wash I'll use a pin style wash targeted in some deep recesses and even that only if really needed. General washes I think work better on 28mm, not on 15 or 10, for me anyway.
@@MiniatureRealms Thanks Stuart. I’ll bear that in mind when I’m ready to start on my figures.
Quick question: what size and type of brushes do you use?
I use mostly 2, 1, and 0 Rosemary & Co series 33. I try and use the biggest brush I can to fit the job, the points are the same (when new and well looked after), and the more paint it can hold will stop it drying on the brush.
Thankfully with my eyes and hands, the two sides are different colour, as i have no chance of painting these
Will still make a great game even if they’re a little too small do you to paint.
think most pikeman wore leather gloves ??
Yep I think you’re right, I painted all the front tank at ‘Porte’ with them, but not all the others.
Hmmm🤔,so the collar matches the cuffs,🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂🤣